Wheel bearings
#1
Racer
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Wheel bearings
I need to replace a front wheel bearing, I noticed that the ones for Camaro/Firebird are much less expensive. They look similar in the pics. Are they the same?
#3
Team Owner
The F-body hubs can be used with a little work. On the Vette, the hub uses 4 bolts and nuts to attach to the spindle. On the F-body, the hub flange has threaded holes and 4 bolts attach the hub. You will have to drill out the threaded holes on the F-body hub to allow the Vette bolts to pass thru. The only other difference IIRC, is the ABS reluctor hub. It may be different on the F-body hub asembly.
If you look at the sticky at the top of the section (C4 Tech Summary and FAQ) you can search thru ther to get part #'s and procedures.
With a bit of careful shopping, you should be able to find C4 hubs at reasonable prices. I got a Timken hub for my 87 for $167 from Rockauto.com They are US made and will withstand track days and autocross.
The cheapie "white-box" ones from the cahin parts stores are typically Chinese and may not last if you drive the car hard.
If you look at the sticky at the top of the section (C4 Tech Summary and FAQ) you can search thru ther to get part #'s and procedures.
With a bit of careful shopping, you should be able to find C4 hubs at reasonable prices. I got a Timken hub for my 87 for $167 from Rockauto.com They are US made and will withstand track days and autocross.
The cheapie "white-box" ones from the cahin parts stores are typically Chinese and may not last if you drive the car hard.
#4
Last edited by dchildress; 08-25-2008 at 09:32 AM.
#6
Tech Contributor
The F-body hubs work fine, including the ABS. I've been using them for years. Drill out the holes and go.
Btw...The old Timken hubs lasted quite awhile on the track (road course). Not the case anymore. My last two sets have lasted less than one (yes 1) day. In the Auto-x and RR section, others report the same results. Granted this is with R-compound tires and an aggressive suspension setup so if you're on street tires I'm sure you'll be fine. On the street I'd imagine they'll last for many years.
Btw...The old Timken hubs lasted quite awhile on the track (road course). Not the case anymore. My last two sets have lasted less than one (yes 1) day. In the Auto-x and RR section, others report the same results. Granted this is with R-compound tires and an aggressive suspension setup so if you're on street tires I'm sure you'll be fine. On the street I'd imagine they'll last for many years.
#8
Le Mans Master
I have not priced out front bearings. What kind of savings are we talking about here by using F body fronts?
Drilling out a few threaded holes to make them through holes is no big deal.
Drilling out a few threaded holes to make them through holes is no big deal.
#9
Tech Contributor
There's no real weight savings. We're talking a ounces at best.
On the street they'll hold up just fine. None of them hold up worth a damn on a road course with sticky tires. Gotta buy the new tapered aftermarket bearings for that
#11
I only put in the passenger side and I run 275 Sumis on my 94. I push it pretty hard and the bearing has held up well so far. I would have agree with GS#007 that no stock replacement bearing would hold up well on a track with some gumballs on the rims.
#13
Safety Car
Found some on ebay - fronts $65e, rears $55e. If they give me three or four races then it's worth it, takes all of 20 min to change one.
Last edited by ScaryFast; 08-26-2008 at 01:31 PM.
#14
Le Mans Master
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The tapered bearings are proving to be just as pathetic. Some forum members have ruined a set of them in two race weekends. I'm sticking wth the cheapest ones and calling them a wear item.
Found some on ebay - fronts $65e, rears $55e. If they give me three or four races then it's worth it, takes all of 20 min to change one.
Found some on ebay - fronts $65e, rears $55e. If they give me three or four races then it's worth it, takes all of 20 min to change one.
Thanks
#15
Safety Car
I've been contemplating whether I really need to spend the extra money on "performance" bearings when it's mostly a street and 1/4 mile car. It is my daily driver that gets driven fairly hard on the streets and may also get on a road course once or twice a year with street tires. If the cheaper bearings will hold up as long as the stock bearings I'd be willing to give them a try. Opinions? What ebay vendor?
Thanks
Thanks
The ones I just bought were from Mac auto, I think they're ebay store is macautodiscounts or something. It's easy to find them, do a search on "corvette hubs" and they're the only place with the rears for $55. Free shipping on one bearing, too.
IMO, For a street car you'd be foolish to spend $200 on a "race" bearing.
#16
Race Director
I've only just put the cheap-o one on last weekend, so it has one race on it (that I didn't finish due to an opti failure ) I had one of the WBI (wheel bearings, inc) parts on there, I'll have to check my receipt because I don't remember when I installed that one. I think it was last year, which would be about 30 track days. Hopefully I'm correct, as that's pretty good for a $65 bearing.
The ones I just bought were from Mac auto, I think they're ebay store is macautodiscounts or something. It's easy to find them, do a search on "corvette hubs" and they're the only place with the rears for $55. Free shipping on one bearing, too.
IMO, For a street car you'd be foolish to spend $200 on a "race" bearing.
The ones I just bought were from Mac auto, I think they're ebay store is macautodiscounts or something. It's easy to find them, do a search on "corvette hubs" and they're the only place with the rears for $55. Free shipping on one bearing, too.
IMO, For a street car you'd be foolish to spend $200 on a "race" bearing.
#17
Tech Contributor
The tapered bearings are proving to be just as pathetic. Some forum members have ruined a set of them in two race weekends. I'm sticking wth the cheapest ones and calling them a wear item.
Found some on ebay - fronts $65e, rears $55e. If they give me three or four races then it's worth it, takes all of 20 min to change one.
Found some on ebay - fronts $65e, rears $55e. If they give me three or four races then it's worth it, takes all of 20 min to change one.
#19
Safety Car
They come from a company called PTC, they're in Ohio. The fronts say "made in USA" the rears say "made in China". Believe what you will.
This is only one case, and VanSteel has sent replacements. Don't give up hope, yet, but it's not looking good.
This is only one case, and VanSteel has sent replacements. Don't give up hope, yet, but it's not looking good.