Skip Shift Question
#1
Instructor
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Skip Shift Question
I searched but I did not find an answer. I had a Skip Shift Eliminator installed recently...but the 1-4 light will still come on. I have been going into 4th anyway, not sure if the device was working.
So, question: Even with this thing in place will the light on the dash still light up but the tranny will let me shift into any gear I like? I just checking.
Thanks
So, question: Even with this thing in place will the light on the dash still light up but the tranny will let me shift into any gear I like? I just checking.
Thanks
#3
Burning Brakes
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Where'd you end up getting it installed and for how much? I read about the CAGS eliminator when I first got the vette, but never bothered to order it figuring I could live with the forced shifting. But it's bothering me more and more. Does it affect the warranty on the car?
#4
Melting Slicks
Where'd you end up getting it installed and for how much? I read about the CAGS eliminator when I first got the vette, but never bothered to order it figuring I could live with the forced shifting. But it's bothering me more and more. Does it affect the warranty on the car?
#5
I ordered one but have not installed it. I just shift before it or rev 1st gear past the skip shift. I find with my driving style I don't even notice it.
the light will be ther though no matter what you if you only have the skip shift eliminator on. It might be able to be disabled at the ECM or something but the cheap eliminators don't deal with it.
the light will be ther though no matter what you if you only have the skip shift eliminator on. It might be able to be disabled at the ECM or something but the cheap eliminators don't deal with it.
#6
Safety Car
The skip shift is one of the most annoying things I've ever seen on a car. I installed the eliminator the first week. It simply plugs in. If you can change a light bulb, you can do it yourself. As far as warranty, the dealer told me about the CAGS eliminator and where to get it when I picked up the car. Just ignore the dash indicator, it is not disabled.
#8
As already mentioned installing the CAGS eliminator will not disable the light. FYI, what the CAGS elinimator does is fool the car into thinking the CAGS is still functioning - the computer does not know it has been disabled, so it still displays the light to shift 1-4. When installing the CAGS eliminator all you are doing is unplugging the soleniod which forces the 1-4 shift and plugging a simple resistor in the place of the solenoid. When the solenoid is unplugged it cannot be energized so it cannot make you shift 1-4. The reason for having a resistor in the place of the solenoid is to put a load on the circuit so the computer thinks the solenoid is still being activated. If there is no load on the circuit (ie. if you just unplug the solenoid) the computer thinks the CAGS is broken and you will get DIC error messages.
Simple.
Simple.
#9
Melting Slicks
As already mentioned installing the CAGS eliminator will not disable the light. FYI, what the CAGS elinimator does is fool the car into thinking the CAGS is still functioning - the computer does not know it has been disabled, so it still displays the light to shift 1-4. When installing the CAGS eliminator all you are doing is unplugging the soleniod which forces the 1-4 shift and plugging a simple resistor in the place of the solenoid. When the solenoid is unplugged it cannot be energized so it cannot make you shift 1-4. The reason for having a resistor in the place of the solenoid is to put a load on the circuit so the computer thinks the solenoid is still being activated. If there is no load on the circuit (ie. if you just unplug the solenoid) the computer thinks the CAGS is broken and you will get DIC error messages.
Simple.
Simple.
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#11
Drifting
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as mentioned before, pull the No. 10 fuse in the engine box (labeled transmission solenoid), split it open and solder a 2.2K ohm / 1/2 watt resistor from RS in series with the fuse link, tape it back together and install.....presto, the same result without crawling under the car. If you have to go in for service simply pull it and install standard 10 amp fuse.
p.s.... the main reason I came up with this trick is my hands are very large and I just couldn't get into the solenoid plug on the transmission because the exhaust pipes are sooooo large. Our 05 coupe pipes were small enough that I could easily get to the plug.
p.s.... the main reason I came up with this trick is my hands are very large and I just couldn't get into the solenoid plug on the transmission because the exhaust pipes are sooooo large. Our 05 coupe pipes were small enough that I could easily get to the plug.
#13
Drifting
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CAGS Fuse
This a picture of the first proto I made......this one uses a 1.0K Ohm resit' which will work....used 2.2K Ohm from RS for final device...also shortened the leads.
This trick keeps the fuse link in the system as some had expressed concern earlier.
IF you make/use this trick be sure you read the fuse box format from the OM to find #10...."transmission solenoid" (the fuse box cover has a matrix that is confusing).
This trick keeps the fuse link in the system as some had expressed concern earlier.
IF you make/use this trick be sure you read the fuse box format from the OM to find #10...."transmission solenoid" (the fuse box cover has a matrix that is confusing).
Last edited by MachAll 2005; 06-30-2008 at 11:29 PM.
#15
#16
Melting Slicks
This a picture of the first proto I made......this one uses a 1.0K Ohm resit' which will work....used 2.2K Ohm from RS for final device...also shortened the leads.
This trick keeps the fuse link in the system as some had expressed concern earlier.
IF you make/use this trick be sure you read the fuse box format from the OM to find #10...."transmission solenoid" (the fuse box cover has a matrix that is confusing).
This trick keeps the fuse link in the system as some had expressed concern earlier.
IF you make/use this trick be sure you read the fuse box format from the OM to find #10...."transmission solenoid" (the fuse box cover has a matrix that is confusing).
#17
Drifting
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Latest
This is an example of the last one I made........it is shown with a light behind it to show what the finished internals look like. I used a flowable clear silicone to bind it all together and to seal it up plus a pc of clear packing tape to finish it.
#18
Le Mans Master
Reminds me of the time I needed to buy a voltage regulator for my 914 and was able to find one at a local parts store for something like $150. I pulled my old one out and took it with me to buy the new VR, but discovered once I got there that the one they had for me had a piece of green tape around it and the one I took out of the car had a off-white band of tape. Otherwise they appeared to be identical, except for different Part #'s.
I asked the counter guy about this and he went to his parts book and discovered that the "green one" was a Porsche part and the one I brought along was a VW Part (the 914s had a VW engine). The VW regulator was half the price of the Porsche part so I bought that and it worked perfectly.
Still, I think I would be more comfortable with the more expensive "Corvette" resistor, despite the significant price difference.
#19
First let me say this is a very clever idea. But let me bring a small refinement to the table:
My version uses a 0805 SMD resistor which is 2 x 1.25mm and fits nicely inside the fuse.
To make it, I started by cutting a square hole and carefully bending the fuse wire out of the case (it is very soft so go easy here). Then I used diagonal cutters to remove a small section of fuse wire at the top, tinned each side and soldered the resistor in place (tweezers come in handy at this point). Finally, I bent the fuse back into the case.
2.2K at 13.7V is about 6mA or 0.085 watts; the SMD resistor is rated for 0.125 watt. The current is low enough that you can use any fuse rating but sticking with the stock 10A part does make the finished product a bit more stealthy.
Here's a parts list:
My version uses a 0805 SMD resistor which is 2 x 1.25mm and fits nicely inside the fuse.
To make it, I started by cutting a square hole and carefully bending the fuse wire out of the case (it is very soft so go easy here). Then I used diagonal cutters to remove a small section of fuse wire at the top, tinned each side and soldered the resistor in place (tweezers come in handy at this point). Finally, I bent the fuse back into the case.
2.2K at 13.7V is about 6mA or 0.085 watts; the SMD resistor is rated for 0.125 watt. The current is low enough that you can use any fuse rating but sticking with the stock 10A part does make the finished product a bit more stealthy.
Here's a parts list:
digikey.com:
541-2.2KACT-ND: RES 2.2K OHM 1/8W 5% 0805 SMD ($0.77/10)
F991-ND: (0297010.WXNV) FUSE BLADE 10A/32V MINI FAST-ACT ($3.18/5)
mouser.com:
292-2.2K-RC: 1/10W 1% 0805 Chip Resistors 1/10WATT 2.2KOHMS ($0.04/each)
576-0297010.WXNV: Fuses - Blade Terminal and Special Purpose 32V 10A Fast Acting ($0.41 each)
It's a shame this won't work for the F-Body; the CAGS and reverse lockout solenoids share one fuse.
541-2.2KACT-ND: RES 2.2K OHM 1/8W 5% 0805 SMD ($0.77/10)
F991-ND: (0297010.WXNV) FUSE BLADE 10A/32V MINI FAST-ACT ($3.18/5)
mouser.com:
292-2.2K-RC: 1/10W 1% 0805 Chip Resistors 1/10WATT 2.2KOHMS ($0.04/each)
576-0297010.WXNV: Fuses - Blade Terminal and Special Purpose 32V 10A Fast Acting ($0.41 each)