ericcer

1996 CE LT4 stroked to 383ci. The car has nearly 80k miles on it. Interior and exterior are in great shape and the car has always been garaged. It has a solid roller cam with the heads and cam combo from Advanced Induction (http://advancedinduction.com/). The engine has about 4k miles on it and has been dynoed at 439 RWHP with serious ignition problems which you can see from the graph. It has the dual brake caliper system per wheel from A/O Engineering installed on it too.

It is my daily driver and I need to get something more “practical”. There are three known problems with the car and I don’t have the time anymore to find a fix for them. One is a full throttle problem that seems ignition related and there is a cruising problem that seems tuning related. It will accelerate fine with light to near full throttle. The plugs look good and all look like they are burning the same. The third issue is maybe an overheating problem in heavy city traffic with the A/C on in 90+ temps. The highest I have let it get is 217 degrees. I have not done a test to see where it would stop.

I have LT1 Edit and more upgrades to the car. The transmission, clutch and rear end is in great shape with no issues. I can provide a compression or leak down test to someone who is seriously interested. I would like to do that anyway but have not found the time.

I plan on providing more information later but in the meantime you can look at my website for information not mentioned here. I have LOTS of photos and could provide video or DVD for someone very interested.

I would like to get $12,000 but would consider other offers. Take a look at my website listed below.

Eric
Email – three8three@knology.net

http://www.knology.net/~eac/

POLOVETTE 94

Very nice looking car. Does it currently have the Delteq Opti Direct ignition system? I see it in one of the engine pics, but not the other. Who did the shortblock? I see it has long tube headers, so I guess no cats? Where is the Accusump mounted? Thanks in advance for the answers.

ericcer

I have the Delteq system but not currently on the car. I went back to the stock setup because I was chasing igntion problems and the stock parts are cheaper. The Delteq igntion module (96 Northstar) is more than twice the price of stock and then you have 4 coils...

A local race engine builder did the shortblock. I have the Accusump mounted where the spare tire was. It is not currently connected.

Right, long tubes no cats 3" exhaust.

sami85L98

Not much experience, but seems like Solid roller cam to me, thats very light weight and usually need adjustment very often to valve train compts, Hyd Roller is the way to go for street and strip, unless its very occasional driver. I might be intersted in this but have not checked ur website as iam in hurry right now, may be i go over again on this later tonight.

ericcer

Just did a compression test since I had the plugs out.

1 - 246 psi
3 - 250 psi
5 - 250 psi
7 - 250 psi

2 - 243 psi
4 - 246 psi
6 - 245 psi
8 - 248 psi

Can you get compression ratio from this?

sami85L98

Eric, those readings looks good, anything more than 10 psi difference is an alert, but 243+ readings is pretty high.

Well usually compression test wont do anything, but a leak down will reveal the most out of the block.
Also if u feel less power specially at top end or on highway going more than 70+ mph speed, than i would suggest do this before leak down test, take the valve covers off (both), and start the car (let it be at idle, no revs) (oil wont spill but i suggest keep some rags in case),
and observe how RR's moving up/down, if any of Rocker arm has less or not at all moving than possibly lobes on camshaft on that particuler cylinder is dead, Once u verified all RR's movement are in proportion with each other and has same movement than a LEAKDOWN test is in order.

Here is an example what i did on my motor:

http://media.putfile.com/cylinder-6-...ed-off-No-good

Video clip shows on a 350 motor with both VC's are off and u see #6 cyl RR is not moving at all its dead (intake) and little movement of RR on exhaust, but conclusion, camshaft lobes on #6 cyl is chipped off and a new cam with lifters are in order, infact i replace the whole block with a new 383 later. I did this because car had serious problem going over 70 mph speed and stalls at stop light but crank everytime u turn the key, serious loss of power at all rpm, but driveable.

These pic's shows how a healthy motor should be, this pics on my 383 when i installed and just to make sure everything is good on bottom block: A constant 100 psi on left meter and <5% on right meter shows a healthy motor and **** on block.

Click on pic to see a bigger picture in diff screen.

sami85L98

Another thing i checked ur website and its awesome u did a lot a thing, but unfortunately did not get the fruit of it, feel sorry for ya. I hate it when it happens, been there done that. Anyway, will u ask ur engine builder if he swaps a roller cam instead of a solid roller? and also 12.XX compression looks high. Iam still thinking seriously on ur car, probably a fresh LT1 383 block will do the trick.

ericcer

Here is why I don’t think there is a mechanical problem with the engine. This is not my first solid roller engine. I have had a cam lobe go bad on a solid roller engine before. When that happened, I started to notice the car was down on power. I first thought it was a tuning issue but could not get the power back. I also noticed the one lifter was making a lot of noise. I figured it was time to adjust the valves. I discovered a very lose rocker arm and also noticed that I had screw down the rocker retaining nut much more than the others. Further investigation revealed the roller had collapsed inside the lifter casing and started the grinding process. I lost confidence in Crane lifters because of that (I am using Morel now).

I have adjusted the current engine’s valves several times and most recently yesterday. I am careful to note any unusual rocker looseness and when done adjusting to compare the hex head depth inside the rocker nut. The hex head (this is the one that is inside the rocker nut) depth in relation to the rocker nut must be the same as all the others or you could be experiencing a cam lobe problem. For example, mine are 2-3 threads deep inside the rocker nut. Also when turning the engine over getting the valves positioned for the adjustment, you can notice the valves opening and closing to see if something looks odd.

I experience no decrease in power since the engine was rebuilt. In fact, I am getting more out of it since the tuning is getting better. You can see from the dyno graph on my website that there is an ignition problem from the breaks in the curve. The tuner and operator both agreed it looked like an ignition problem and not fuel. On my dyno video you can see the unspent fuel shoot out the tailpipes.

Certainly, we all can agree that a leak down test is one of the best indications of engine health and I have the tools to do that. I plan on doing that in the future. Unfortunately, I did not have the time yesterday. I also would like to get an oil analysis to complete the picture. Again, I don’t think there is any mechanical problem with the engine and don’t have any of the symptoms you described with your 350ci motor. The full throttle problem is random throughout the rpm band and seems to get worse the longer the engine is running not necessarily related to coolant temperatures.

ericcer

Cruising problem is tuning related and is much improved now. It occurs mainly below 2k rpm I have not found the sweet spot for light crusing yet (probably timing). I had a bad alternator that was burning up the igntion module and contributing to the crusing problem. It was hard to tell what was going on at the time. Ever since the alternator has been replaced a month ago the ignition module has not gone bad according the the Advanced Auto Part tester. JC at Delteq gave me the clue about the alternator issue.

I just put on new front tires also.

ericcer

This is response to a number of inquiries.

Another problem I failed to mention. I have a leaky oil pan thanks to Canton. At the end of my 20 mile daily commute I wipe the oil off the bottom so it won’t start to spray oil over everything every night. If I did not wipe it down every night I would start to see drips on the floor in a few days so it really is not that bad but worth mentioning. Just taking a guess I would suppose that it leaks about a half a quart every 3k miles. The oil pan needs to be replaced with a quality unit. Search CF and you will find that I am not the only one that has been screwed by Canton with their poor quality. The transmission and rear end has no leaks. The rear end was rebuilt about 10k miles ago when I got the 3.54gears.

I run this car on 93 octane pump gas. I am sure it would run even better with something higher.

Some people have asked if they could drive the car home several hundred miles or states away if purchased. You know does it run good enough to make the trip. The answer is yes it does but here are my concerns. The rear tires are half way gone and I would be concerned about getting stuck in a rainstorm. Another concern is the leaky oil pan. Maybe you would have to check the oil level every 100 miles until you get an idea about how much leaks out. The car is lowered and driving on unknown roads would be a concern. Maybe I am worrying to much about all this I don't know.

Also I just realized that I don't have any interior pictures on my website. The interior is in great shape. If anything needed to be replaced it would be the center console section around the shifter. It has gotten all scratched up. I plan on posting some interior pictures on my website this weekend.

ericcer

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