c5 LS1 balancer/crank pulley suggestions
#1
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Location: St. Charles MO
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c5 LS1 balancer/crank pulley suggestions
The car is a 2000 Coupe, 6 speed.
the balancer has managed to separate itself ( i beleive)
If you look down at it from the passenger side, it looks as if it is walking back and forth.
only has 28k miles on it.
I am in the market for an aftermarket balancer since i am going to be spending the money anyway.
I wouldnt mind an underdrive since i will be replacing the belt anyway, but this car is daily driven, so it cannot be anything extreme.
any help is appreciated!
the balancer has managed to separate itself ( i beleive)
If you look down at it from the passenger side, it looks as if it is walking back and forth.
only has 28k miles on it.
I am in the market for an aftermarket balancer since i am going to be spending the money anyway.
I wouldnt mind an underdrive since i will be replacing the belt anyway, but this car is daily driven, so it cannot be anything extreme.
any help is appreciated!
#2
Burning Brakes
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The car is a 2000 Coupe, 6 speed.
the balancer has managed to separate itself ( i beleive)
If you look down at it from the passenger side, it looks as if it is walking back and forth.
only has 28k miles on it.
I am in the market for an aftermarket balancer since i am going to be spending the money anyway.
I wouldnt mind an underdrive since i will be replacing the belt anyway, but this car is daily driven, so it cannot be anything extreme.
any help is appreciated!
the balancer has managed to separate itself ( i beleive)
If you look down at it from the passenger side, it looks as if it is walking back and forth.
only has 28k miles on it.
I am in the market for an aftermarket balancer since i am going to be spending the money anyway.
I wouldnt mind an underdrive since i will be replacing the belt anyway, but this car is daily driven, so it cannot be anything extreme.
any help is appreciated!
Can't say i really recommend it, because i havn't officially done it yet, but when I install my cam and heads, I'm installing a Fluidampr balancer with 10% underdrive. It's SFI approved and shouldn't come apart like the ones that use rubber. My second choice would have been the ATI dampener with 10% underdrive. It was almost $100 more.
Hammer
Last edited by thehammer69; 01-13-2007 at 08:37 PM.
#5
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I am in St. Louis, MO.
I will most likely be ordering this from someone anyway, so location doesnt matter much.
25% underdrive isnt too much for a daily driven street car bone stock?
cam is in the future, but probably not for another year.
#7
ASP underdrive here,about a year of good service. If you want to go this route this is what you need:
ASP pulley part#941020
Belts-NAPA part#25-040410 -060775
Balancer bolt I recomend ARP(you cannot reuse the factory bolt)http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...4916_-1_133564
Its a good idea to pin the balancer before bolting it on you can get a fixture for this from A&A or post a WTB thread in the for sale section.
For installing the new pulley a length of 16X2 metric rod with some nuts & washers can save the crank threads from damage.http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=325-6848
Good luck with the install.
ASP pulley part#941020
Belts-NAPA part#25-040410 -060775
Balancer bolt I recomend ARP(you cannot reuse the factory bolt)http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...4916_-1_133564
Its a good idea to pin the balancer before bolting it on you can get a fixture for this from A&A or post a WTB thread in the for sale section.
For installing the new pulley a length of 16X2 metric rod with some nuts & washers can save the crank threads from damage.http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=325-6848
Good luck with the install.
#8
Instructor
I got the SLP underdrive pulley for around $200.00. You can also go with the liquid filled type they are lighter but they cost more. I am happy with the SLP. It is lighter than the stock pulley and I have heard that you gain 10 hp.
#9
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and how would the threaded rod help? i would assume you mean thread the rod all the way into the crank, and then use the nut and washers to drive the pulley on?
#10
Team Owner
#11
If you should use the ARP bolt use ARP's torque spec. not the factory spec. as the ARP bolt is not torque-to-yield.
Last edited by Thickraybans; 01-13-2007 at 11:15 PM.
#12
Instructor
Have my steering rack almost dropped and waiting on my factory balancer. Do you mean I could have gotten more power? Is underdrive safe with nitrous? Do I need a tune? Can I do it with Pred? Do I just need a balancer and a new belt?
#13
Instructor
Yes you need a new belt with the SLP 78", and the sides on the UD are taller for better chance that you won't thow a belt. I don't see why you could not use it with nitrous. The thing I notice the most after this upgrade is once you get to 4000 RPM's it gets to the redline much faster.
#14
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I ordered the Powerbond balancer from Texas Speed today. i am going to tackle this on sunday, hopefully i dont run into any problems. and yes i have a new crank bolt.
#15
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