Another money saving mod - DYI - PCV mod (PICS)
#1
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Another money saving mod - DYI - PCV mod (PICS)
This keeps the oil out of the intake and in the filter. People are spending $200 or more on a "Catch can". This can be done for less than $40. Some peole say the filters are to small and don'e hold enough oil. Well guess what, empty it more often.
He is my write up with pics :
Parts list
2-Home Depot air compressor filters
2- 1/4" x 3/8" NPT fittings
1- 1/4" x 1" Coupler
1- Roll of 3/8" hose of choice, I chose clear braided line, just because.
1- 1" hose clamp
Directions :
- Take off the passanger side FRC.
- Remove the hose and PCV from the Intake side.
- Remove the PCV hose from the block line, right above the passanger valve cover.
- Put the 2 filters together using the 1" coupler.
- Put the NPT fittings on the remaining ends.
- Make sure the flow arrows are pointing the same way. (FIG2)
- Cut and run a new 3/8" hose from the engine line right above the valve cover to the INLET side of your new filter set up. (FIG 3) in the middle
- Cut and run a new 3/8" hose from the end of PCV to the OUTLET side of your new filter set up.
- Attach the PCV's holder in the Intake. (FIG1)
- Attach the PCV into the holder add a hose clamp to keep the PCV in place, since the old stock clamp is not going to line up, and the plumbing is complete.
- Secure the new hose down, I attached it to the AC line.
- You will notice I changed the line from the valve cover to the throttle body, I did that for looks.
- You will also notice in Figure 2 that the left filter is already brown, that was from reving the engine to 3000rpms, in the drive way.
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
View without the FRC.
He is my write up with pics :
Parts list
2-Home Depot air compressor filters
2- 1/4" x 3/8" NPT fittings
1- 1/4" x 1" Coupler
1- Roll of 3/8" hose of choice, I chose clear braided line, just because.
1- 1" hose clamp
Directions :
- Take off the passanger side FRC.
- Remove the hose and PCV from the Intake side.
- Remove the PCV hose from the block line, right above the passanger valve cover.
- Put the 2 filters together using the 1" coupler.
- Put the NPT fittings on the remaining ends.
- Make sure the flow arrows are pointing the same way. (FIG2)
- Cut and run a new 3/8" hose from the engine line right above the valve cover to the INLET side of your new filter set up. (FIG 3) in the middle
- Cut and run a new 3/8" hose from the end of PCV to the OUTLET side of your new filter set up.
- Attach the PCV's holder in the Intake. (FIG1)
- Attach the PCV into the holder add a hose clamp to keep the PCV in place, since the old stock clamp is not going to line up, and the plumbing is complete.
- Secure the new hose down, I attached it to the AC line.
- You will notice I changed the line from the valve cover to the throttle body, I did that for looks.
- You will also notice in Figure 2 that the left filter is already brown, that was from reving the engine to 3000rpms, in the drive way.
Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
View without the FRC.
#6
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Rich,
Nice write-up! Couple of questions:
1) Is the clear, braided hose rated to stand-up to the engine compartment heat?
2) You've decided to leave in the filters. Also, some other forum members have elected to add in-line Fram filters to their catch can assembly. As these filters collect residue, do you anticipate the vacum applied to the crank case to diminish? If so, the purpose of Positive Crankcase Ventilation (drawing these gases out of the crankcase) is partially defeated. I'm definitely 100% for a catch can but not sure on the filtration.
Your thoughts?
Thanks again.
Nice write-up! Couple of questions:
1) Is the clear, braided hose rated to stand-up to the engine compartment heat?
2) You've decided to leave in the filters. Also, some other forum members have elected to add in-line Fram filters to their catch can assembly. As these filters collect residue, do you anticipate the vacum applied to the crank case to diminish? If so, the purpose of Positive Crankcase Ventilation (drawing these gases out of the crankcase) is partially defeated. I'm definitely 100% for a catch can but not sure on the filtration.
Your thoughts?
Thanks again.
#8
Get Some!
Originally Posted by javamon
Rich,
Nice write-up! Couple of questions:
1) Is the clear, braided hose rated to stand-up to the engine compartment heat?
2) You've decided to leave in the filters. Also, some other forum members have elected to add in-line Fram filters to their catch can assembly. As these filters collect residue, do you anticipate the vacum applied to the crank case to diminish? If so, the purpose of Positive Crankcase Ventilation (drawing these gases out of the crankcase) is partially defeated. I'm definitely 100% for a catch can but not sure on the filtration.
Your thoughts?
Thanks again.
Nice write-up! Couple of questions:
1) Is the clear, braided hose rated to stand-up to the engine compartment heat?
2) You've decided to leave in the filters. Also, some other forum members have elected to add in-line Fram filters to their catch can assembly. As these filters collect residue, do you anticipate the vacum applied to the crank case to diminish? If so, the purpose of Positive Crankcase Ventilation (drawing these gases out of the crankcase) is partially defeated. I'm definitely 100% for a catch can but not sure on the filtration.
Your thoughts?
Thanks again.
#9
This mod is a waste of time, I did it and always wondered why I never collected more than a 1/2in. of oil, the reason is the oil travels up the sides and right back into the intake. I took mine off and installed a $90 AMW catch can, problem solved. Don't think a $10 Wally World air filter will protect your engine from ingesting oil, it won't. Do it right and use a catch can designed to do the job, and the AMW cans come in 4 colors! See em at www.americanracingtech.com Your so right the price went from $90 to $159+, its still the way to go
Last edited by 1KLRTOY; 08-26-2005 at 12:06 AM.
#12
i dont understand this mod is it necessary? what are the advantages of doing a catch can mod or the disadvantages of not doing it? dont you just replace the pcv filter routinely to accomplish the same thing? thanx brad
#13
Get Some!
Originally Posted by Shylor
I don't understand the purpose of this mod. Can someone explain it more.
#14
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
The PCV is not a filter it is a valve.
Just empty the two plastic cans, once in a great while and you will not have oil coming back up. Thats another reason I used 2 filters, more room for oil.
The fram in-line filters are used to catch the residue, I have not had the chance to get 2 of them, one goes on right before the PCV and the other to the valve cover to the throttle body.
As far as my choice of hose, you can use regular black fuel line, I had this laying around and used it. I will probally go with black fuel line soon enough.
It is your money and the AMW can cost almost $200 with shipping.
These so called "wally world" filters keep 10s of thousands of dollars in air equipment in tip top shape.
This DIY write was for the people who like a DIY and a little help is better than all that oil passing through.
But, again, it is your money to pay the King Corvette taxes.
Just empty the two plastic cans, once in a great while and you will not have oil coming back up. Thats another reason I used 2 filters, more room for oil.
The fram in-line filters are used to catch the residue, I have not had the chance to get 2 of them, one goes on right before the PCV and the other to the valve cover to the throttle body.
As far as my choice of hose, you can use regular black fuel line, I had this laying around and used it. I will probally go with black fuel line soon enough.
It is your money and the AMW can cost almost $200 with shipping.
These so called "wally world" filters keep 10s of thousands of dollars in air equipment in tip top shape.
This DIY write was for the people who like a DIY and a little help is better than all that oil passing through.
But, again, it is your money to pay the King Corvette taxes.
#16
Drifting
couple things to improve your nice write up. I did this mod a month ago. Use black fuel line from Auto zone so it matches your engine bay and take the filter out of you catch can. It will catch a lot more oil with that filter out.
#17
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Originally Posted by LiquidDI
couple things to improve your nice write up. I did this mod a month ago. Use black fuel line from Auto zone so it matches your engine bay and take the filter out of you catch can. It will catch a lot more oil with that filter out.
Thanks, will the filter hurt?
#18
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Originally Posted by MAJ Z06
I don't see how this would reduce the vacuum in the crankcase. I agree with others, you might want to change the hose to fuel or tranny line. I've heard of that clear hose collapsing when it gets hot.
If someone is using the in-line filter, might be interesting to take some vacuum readings when the filter is new and then after it has been in use for some time.
#19
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Here is the infor from the AMW web site (http://www.americanracingtech.com/) about catch cans and what they do and why you may want one.
Not an endorsment, just a decent explination.
"AMW PCV Catch Cans are designed by automotive enthusiasts for those who expect a higher standard of performance from their vehicle and wish to help extend the life of their engine by decreasing oil contamination from the intake tract to the combustion chamber. Months of research and testing has provided AMW with a unique and functional kit that has worked flawlessly on many makes of vehicles, from turbo applications, imports, late model domestics, to early model muscle. The internal design of the AMW catch can is superior in function to other catch cans on the market. Oil vapors and other contaminates are first caught and condensed by a stainless mesh and then dropped to the bottom of the can where a series of under-cuts in the walls prevent the oil from climbing back to the top and exiting back into the intake tract. Oil contamination derives from the positive crankcase ventilation valve common on most internal combustion engines where vacuum is pulled on the crankcase by the intake or in some cases the throttle body. This contamination occurs when oil vapors exit the crankcase via the PCV valve, enter the intake tract, and create adverse effects such as carbon build-up on valves, pistons, and plugs, as well as cause harmful detonation. Detonation in many cases causes the ECM/PCM to retard timing, thus creating a reduction in horsepower. Power adders such as turbos, blowers, or nitrous can benefit greatly due to the removal of oil contamination in the combustion process. Poor emissions could also be traced back to high levels of oil residue being burned in the combustion process. By removing this oil, a clean burning engine could help the environment as well as improving the performance of a vehicle. AWM?s PCV Catch Cans and mounting brackets are made from 6061 billet aluminum and machined cut on CNC machines producing a precise product with a professional appearance. Dimensions of the can are 2 1/2-inch in diameter by 5 3/4-inch tall, therefore making installations in tight spaces more convenient. Installation takes on average 15 to 20 minutes with minimal mechanical knowledge and common household tools. All hardware and accessories are included with purchase i.e. mounting bracket, screws, billet aluminum fittings, hose clamps, and five feet of hose."
Not an endorsment, just a decent explination.
"AMW PCV Catch Cans are designed by automotive enthusiasts for those who expect a higher standard of performance from their vehicle and wish to help extend the life of their engine by decreasing oil contamination from the intake tract to the combustion chamber. Months of research and testing has provided AMW with a unique and functional kit that has worked flawlessly on many makes of vehicles, from turbo applications, imports, late model domestics, to early model muscle. The internal design of the AMW catch can is superior in function to other catch cans on the market. Oil vapors and other contaminates are first caught and condensed by a stainless mesh and then dropped to the bottom of the can where a series of under-cuts in the walls prevent the oil from climbing back to the top and exiting back into the intake tract. Oil contamination derives from the positive crankcase ventilation valve common on most internal combustion engines where vacuum is pulled on the crankcase by the intake or in some cases the throttle body. This contamination occurs when oil vapors exit the crankcase via the PCV valve, enter the intake tract, and create adverse effects such as carbon build-up on valves, pistons, and plugs, as well as cause harmful detonation. Detonation in many cases causes the ECM/PCM to retard timing, thus creating a reduction in horsepower. Power adders such as turbos, blowers, or nitrous can benefit greatly due to the removal of oil contamination in the combustion process. Poor emissions could also be traced back to high levels of oil residue being burned in the combustion process. By removing this oil, a clean burning engine could help the environment as well as improving the performance of a vehicle. AWM?s PCV Catch Cans and mounting brackets are made from 6061 billet aluminum and machined cut on CNC machines producing a precise product with a professional appearance. Dimensions of the can are 2 1/2-inch in diameter by 5 3/4-inch tall, therefore making installations in tight spaces more convenient. Installation takes on average 15 to 20 minutes with minimal mechanical knowledge and common household tools. All hardware and accessories are included with purchase i.e. mounting bracket, screws, billet aluminum fittings, hose clamps, and five feet of hose."