TC and Rear Gear install-Done
08-19-2005, 07:47 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
TC and Rear Gear install-Done
Well Gang-
I finally took the plunge and over the last few days I installed my TC and 3.42 rear gears. A few thoughts and tips for anyone attempting this follow.
Buy a better trans jack, I got the 49.99 Harbor Freight and it doesn't lift level, this made the trans and cradle reinstall a bit more challenging, maybe mines busted, YMMV.
Use the directions and pics from the Corvette Fever article, but I choose not to R and R the torque tube, I just lowered the driveline and unbolted the trans.
How do you get the wiring harness and brake clips out of the cradle without killing em, I tapped em back thru with hammer but they don't fit nearly as tight as they did.
Make sure you buy a new seal for the seal plate, I couldn't figure out how to get it out with damaging the seal.
Filling the trans sucks, I have a few burns and I took a bath in hot ATF, use a siphon pump it's the only way to fly.
I am way too old to do this without a lift, but I did survive it.
When I went to warm up the trans, the temp display was all xxx's, I assume this was due to low fluid, after I filled it the readout worked fine.
Good news is everything worked perfectly. Car rocks, this is the way all A4 C5's should come from the factory.
With a PT2800 and the 3.42 it does not feel loose at all and the A4 will I downshift hesitation is gone.
It was a crap load of work, took about 12 hours with just me working on it and 5 more hours with help, but well worth it, now I need to get to the track!
A special thanks to Corvette Fever, Bob at Fichtners, Gene at Karshop, and Mike Mercury, for parts, instructions and pictures.
Regards, Jeff
I finally took the plunge and over the last few days I installed my TC and 3.42 rear gears. A few thoughts and tips for anyone attempting this follow.
Buy a better trans jack, I got the 49.99 Harbor Freight and it doesn't lift level, this made the trans and cradle reinstall a bit more challenging, maybe mines busted, YMMV.
Use the directions and pics from the Corvette Fever article, but I choose not to R and R the torque tube, I just lowered the driveline and unbolted the trans.
How do you get the wiring harness and brake clips out of the cradle without killing em, I tapped em back thru with hammer but they don't fit nearly as tight as they did.
Make sure you buy a new seal for the seal plate, I couldn't figure out how to get it out with damaging the seal.
Filling the trans sucks, I have a few burns and I took a bath in hot ATF, use a siphon pump it's the only way to fly.
I am way too old to do this without a lift, but I did survive it.
When I went to warm up the trans, the temp display was all xxx's, I assume this was due to low fluid, after I filled it the readout worked fine.
Good news is everything worked perfectly. Car rocks, this is the way all A4 C5's should come from the factory.
With a PT2800 and the 3.42 it does not feel loose at all and the A4 will I downshift hesitation is gone.
It was a crap load of work, took about 12 hours with just me working on it and 5 more hours with help, but well worth it, now I need to get to the track!
A special thanks to Corvette Fever, Bob at Fichtners, Gene at Karshop, and Mike Mercury, for parts, instructions and pictures.
Regards, Jeff
enjoy and let us know how it runs at the track
08-19-2005, 10:05 PM
#4
Supporting Tuner
Sweet!! 
08-20-2005, 09:05 AM
#5
Safety Car
Jeff, just curious...how did you decide on the PT2800 rather than the PT2400-2600? Do you fel any "looseness" at all? I'm planning on installing 3.42s and a Protorque this winter. My car is purely a street-driven vehicle. I have heads, cam (216-220 rated 1300-6300rpms), intake, injectors, longtubes, etc. I drove a 2001 C5, w/3.42s and a PT 2400-2600, putting down similar power to mine, and it drove great, IMO. I was in a Z28 with a 3500 stall and didn't care for that at all. Thanks for any thoughts. 
Ed
Ed
08-20-2005, 10:12 AM
#7
Drifting
Originally Posted by C5XTASY
Jeff, just curious...how did you decide on the PT2800 rather than the PT2400-2600? Do you fel any "looseness" at all? I'm planning on installing 3.42s and a Protorque this winter. My car is purely a street-driven vehicle. I have heads, cam (216-220 rated 1300-6300rpms), intake, injectors, longtubes, etc. I drove a 2001 C5, w/3.42s and a PT 2400-2600, putting down similar power to mine, and it drove great, IMO. I was in a Z28 with a 3500 stall and didn't care for that at all. Thanks for any thoughts.
Ed
Ed
Ed, Not ever having been in a car with a high stall TC before, I really wasn't sure what loose felt like. The PT 2800 is loose. My first drive was weird, felt like a bad clutch but I am finally getting use to the way it reacts. I'm thinking that I might have liked the 2400 better...?
I am planning on a lumpy cam, headers and pulleys next so maybe the 2800 will be the ideal choice.
Trial and error is expensive!!! That's Life!
Bob
Last edited by bcseitz; 08-20-2005 at 10:18 AM.
08-20-2005, 10:34 AM
#8
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by C5XTASY
Jeff, just curious...how did you decide on the PT2800 rather than the PT2400-2600? Do you fel any "looseness" at all? I'm planning on installing 3.42s and a Protorque this winter. My car is purely a street-driven vehicle. I have heads, cam (216-220 rated 1300-6300rpms), intake, injectors, longtubes, etc. I drove a 2001 C5, w/3.42s and a PT 2400-2600, putting down similar power to mine, and it drove great, IMO. I was in a Z28 with a 3500 stall and didn't care for that at all. Thanks for any thoughts.
Ed
Ed
To be truthful, I didn't really decide on the PT2800, I had my heart set on a Yank 3600, but an opportunity to buy a used 2800 at killer price meant I couldn't pass it up. It is very docile in normal driving, just takes a bit more throttle to get rolling, it will barely creep if you take your foot off the brake when stopped. Doesn't feel loose to me at all. I'd personally wouldn't go any smaller than 2800. As always your mileage vary. Good luck. Jeff
08-20-2005, 10:38 AM
#9
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by bcseitz
First... Jeff, congrats. on the install yourself! Your brave. I only do the small stuff myself, sways, shocks, rotors ect. I had mine done about a week ago with the same setup, Protorque 2800 and 3.42's.
Ed, Not ever having been in a car with a high stall TC before, I really wasn't sure what loose felt like. The PT 2800 is loose. My first drive was weird, felt like a bad clutch but I am finally getting use to the way it reacts. I'm thinking that I might have liked the 2400 better...?
I am planning on a lumpy cam, headers and pulleys next so maybe the 2800 will be the ideal choice.
Trial and error is expensive!!! That's Life!
Bob
Ed, Not ever having been in a car with a high stall TC before, I really wasn't sure what loose felt like. The PT 2800 is loose. My first drive was weird, felt like a bad clutch but I am finally getting use to the way it reacts. I'm thinking that I might have liked the 2400 better...?
I am planning on a lumpy cam, headers and pulleys next so maybe the 2800 will be the ideal choice.
Trial and error is expensive!!! That's Life!
Bob
That is interesting, I didn't think it was loose at all but it truly maybe a matter of perception as to what's loose and what isnt. That said I'm happy as a clam, it seems great, now I just need to get out to the track. Jeff
08-20-2005, 10:44 AM
#10
Drifting
Originally Posted by G-lock
Bob-
That is interesting, I didn't think it was loose at all but it truly maybe a matter of perception as to what's loose and what isnt. That said I'm happy as a clam, it seems great, now I just need to get out to the track. Jeff
That is interesting, I didn't think it was loose at all but it truly maybe a matter of perception as to what's loose and what isnt. That said I'm happy as a clam, it seems great, now I just need to get out to the track. Jeff
08-20-2005, 11:12 AM
#11
Melting Slicks
To fill the tranny: get a "pump" kind of attachment that is used to fill the lower units of boats. These "pump" kits should be available at most hardware stores, boat dealerships, or maybe even auto supply stores, and it costs about $14.00.
It is simply a "pump" like is on large bottles of hand cleaner (GoJo, etc), a piece of tubing about 15 inches long, and a special steel fitting that screws into the boat lower unit.
Get rid of the steel fitting, screw the pump onto your tranny fluid bottle, and you are all set. Works well.
It is simply a "pump" like is on large bottles of hand cleaner (GoJo, etc), a piece of tubing about 15 inches long, and a special steel fitting that screws into the boat lower unit.
Get rid of the steel fitting, screw the pump onto your tranny fluid bottle, and you are all set. Works well.
08-20-2005, 04:01 PM
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Wicked Weasel
Nice work - always impressed with the guys that tackle the big jobs on their own. I have done small work, but I leave the big stuff to the PROs...
08-20-2005, 04:02 PM
#15
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 94legaleagle
To fill the tranny: get a "pump" kind of attachment that is used to fill the lower units of boats. These "pump" kits should be available at most hardware stores, boat dealerships, or maybe even auto supply stores, and it costs about $14.00.
It is simply a "pump" like is on large bottles of hand cleaner (GoJo, etc), a piece of tubing about 15 inches long, and a special steel fitting that screws into the boat lower unit.
Get rid of the steel fitting, screw the pump onto your tranny fluid bottle, and you are all set. Works well.
It is simply a "pump" like is on large bottles of hand cleaner (GoJo, etc), a piece of tubing about 15 inches long, and a special steel fitting that screws into the boat lower unit.
Get rid of the steel fitting, screw the pump onto your tranny fluid bottle, and you are all set. Works well.
08-20-2005, 09:01 PM
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Good question, I'm thinking Wednesday night. I have kids next weekend and then it's labor day, so it's Wednesday or not for a week or two. Part of me wants to drive it around a bit more to make sure the fluids are up and not leaking, but I've put about 65 miles on it and it seems fine, no codes, no leaks. The install wasn't difficult just time consuming and I'm glad I did it myself. Jeff
