boulderlt4

Update from this thread...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...79&forum_id=48

Well here is the proposal on the table right now.

Rebuild this thing to be a little badder and stronger than before.

JE Pistons, Manley Rods, Eagle Crank, bigger injectors (30# or 36#), new rings, bearings and a tune.

While he is in there I am also having a heavy duty clutch and a Hurst shifter installed.

I'm about 80% certain this is the way I will go. Plus this will be a great building block for a TT, NOS, blower setup.

C4DC

So what is the status of that TT deal you were talking of a few months ago?

boulderlt4

Nothing was going to happen until this fall/early winter.

We are still talking about it, but I haven't decided yet. I still need to talk to some people.

The more I talk to people about it, the less I want to do it. Could be fun though! Time will tell.

Timmy!

I think you're going to like the 383. You were complaining about the lack of low end before - you won't be now!

luvmy92

Let me tell you right now to prepare for the worst. If you are budgeting $4K - $5K you better double it. If it can go wrong it probably will. While doing mine, I have had to replace 2 ECM's, 2 opti-sparks, the water pump, injectors, coil, 2 sets of pistons (JE's), 2 sets of lifters and pushrods, and I can go on and on.

Make sure you have someone fully responsible to take the fall if things don't go well. Get it in writing if you have to. Of course this is all mute if you are doing all the work yourself (except the machine work).

Regardless, expect the unexpected and prepare for it because there are going to be some issues. Good luck with the rebuild.

Mike

FELNGR8

Considering you got into this pickle just running it hard on a road race course, which is a known problem with LTX Corvettes, you better make sure a road race oil pan is part of the deal!

Stronger components might make it last a few more corners than it did, but you'll be right back to a more expensive blown engine if you don't look into all the things road racers do to prep these things. Of course, any of those things will take you out of stock classes with SCCA. You'll be matched up with the big dogs.

boulderlt4

Why have you had so many issues?

Timmy!

He has a good point - better order up a Canton pan and then drop it off over there to have installed. Of course then that probably won't fit between the headers or something...

boulderlt4

You didn't have any probs with your 383 man?? Did ya??

boulderlt4

I'm a noob.

What are the key differences, and how much do they cost?

Timmy!

Haven't ever road raced it. I "tried" to auto-x a couple of times but that didn't go over real well with the 383 and an automatic...instant slide outs.

luvmy92

I had an inexperienced engine builder do the work and he had more excuses than answers. Since he was only a college kid and didn't have any money, I had to pay for all of his screw-ups.

Yes, definitely get the 240-T road race pan (I also went with a 3 qt accusump as extra insurance) if you are going to road race it.

Mike

BrianCunningham

Big sticky tires, and lots of camber

FELNGR8

The main thing is to have baffles so the oil won't walk up the side of the block on high G high rev corners. You apparently had oil slosh forward and leave the pickup dry momentarily. The main difference with road race oil pans is they have parts of the sump that go out to the side permitting more capacity than stock. Which is what makes them hard to fit in the car. But a better pan HAS to have baffles to keep the oil in the pan under the pickup. Or you'll have oil starvation and blown bearings or rods.

luvmy92

The Canton 15-240T pan is the one you want.

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...road_race.html

I also went with the Melling 10552 oil pump (10% more volume w/adjustable pressure) and the Canton 3/4" pickup (20-079). Some minor modding is necessary to mate up.

Mike

Maverik

I was so close to doing a 383 when the #8 spun, but decided one of the reasons I wanted the car was for the stock LT4 motor... so it stayed stock. However, a few words to think about. Nitrous loves high compression, boost loves low compression. If you have a preference for which one you are going to run get the pistons accordingly.
Dan

ztrips

I just got done building my 383 after spinning the hub on the crank snout.. You better budget more than $5k, even if things go right.. If you're planning on NO2 or a blower in the future spend the money now and go all forged with a good blower cam and ceramic coat your piston tops and combustion chambers. Then you won't need to worry about the long block down the road. Canton pan is a good choice, but don't install it with the factory oil pan rails. Leaks like crazy...

BrianCunningham

An acusump is also cheap insurance.

All the C4's I've seen race in SpeedGT were running them.

Drysump is better of course, but a real PITA to install and major $$$

Make sure the drains in the heads are clear, as oil also tends to build up there during long sweepers.

boulderlt4

Thanks!



Anyone running a Aviad Pan or just Cantons???

LT4POWR

Decide (realistically) what you future plans are for the car/motor and budget/plan/build accordingly. Research and document everything. Get a engine builder with LT1/4 experience.