Clutch STILL sticking after slave cylinder replacement!
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Clutch STILL sticking after slave cylinder replacement!
I can't believe this, Eismann's Corvette Center replaced the clutch slave cylinder, using new GM fluid in after being plagued with sticking clutch problems since my LPE 427build (with an RPS stage 3 clutch). With headers installed, they have to drop the left header to get to the slave, so this is no simple backyard, shade tree task. The very 1st time I got on it, it stuck to the floor again! Better put, it's slow to come back up. It doesn't actually stick to the floor.
How the he11 can I fix this some buck once and for all? Now that I'm back up in N IN for the summer, I'm going to call LPE in Decator on Mon and see what they suggest. Got all this friggin power, but can't enjoy it to it's fullest.
How the he11 can I fix this some buck once and for all? Now that I'm back up in N IN for the summer, I'm going to call LPE in Decator on Mon and see what they suggest. Got all this friggin power, but can't enjoy it to it's fullest.
Last edited by Goodwood; 04-22-2007 at 06:29 AM.
#4
Burning Brakes
This is because the slave cylinder isn't the problem, its the clutch itself.
This is a common problem on GM cars with the 6 speeds (Camaro's, Vette's). It comes from GM using a cheap pressure plate that cant take the high RPM's.
While I have not had the issue on my Vette yet, I had the issue on my 00 SS and it was not solved till I put a better clutch in (I went with a Centreforce dual friction plate)
This is a common problem on GM cars with the 6 speeds (Camaro's, Vette's). It comes from GM using a cheap pressure plate that cant take the high RPM's.
While I have not had the issue on my Vette yet, I had the issue on my 00 SS and it was not solved till I put a better clutch in (I went with a Centreforce dual friction plate)
#5
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Very surprised that you are having this issue with an RPS clutch. I had the EXACT SAME ISSUE with a SPEC 3+, with SPEC blaming it on the hydraulics. After having the drivetrain out to replace both slave AND master (again, after putting a new slave and and doing a what-the-heck-as-long-as-it's-apart-anyway-clutch-upgrade to resolve a bad throwout bearing), I got disgusted with SPEC and replaced it with an RPS (with the problem going away IMMMEDIATELY). Upon removal we also found that the SPEC had "grenade'd" something from the assy., punching a HOLE IN MY BELL HOUSING - luckiliy on the BOTTOM, not through the floorboard and soft human body parts.
I'm going to lean towards a bad pressure plate on this one, since the SPEC appeard to have to same problem (happens to even the best of them occasionally). Stage 3 also would appear to be slightly weak for a mod'd 403 motor also. You can get RPS to build you an assy for whatever TQ you desire.
Also, you should have put a clutch bleeder extension on while it was apart. These clutch hydraulics are a REAL BEOTCH to bleed correctly, and reverse pressure bleeding this the only way I've seen to get it RIGHT. I also went a STEP FURTHER, and mod'd the clutch line also - replacing the rubber portion with a piece of stainless/teflon line, and wrapping the entire assy in 1,500 degree fire-wrap. I believe Horsepower Sales now includes the "SickRick Slave Line Mod", in all HP clutch swaps at thier shop.
REAL STUPID design move on GM's part, putting a piece of rubber in a hydraulic line, exactly where it runs past the exhuast manifold (particularly a piece of rubber that has "not for brake use" right on it), where it can get cooked, have thermal expansion issues, and aid in the boiling of the clutch fluid - ESPECIALLY on a header car - just ask the first couple of SuperMaxx header users on the C6, before Dyntech included a clamp to hold the line AWAY from the header - they had thier cars CATCH FIRE).
Any way, clutch manufacturers are quick to point the finger at hydraulics. If you've verified yours, I'd get another clutch assy from them, as you likely just got a bad one (again, feces happens).
Regards,
Rick
I'm going to lean towards a bad pressure plate on this one, since the SPEC appeard to have to same problem (happens to even the best of them occasionally). Stage 3 also would appear to be slightly weak for a mod'd 403 motor also. You can get RPS to build you an assy for whatever TQ you desire.
Also, you should have put a clutch bleeder extension on while it was apart. These clutch hydraulics are a REAL BEOTCH to bleed correctly, and reverse pressure bleeding this the only way I've seen to get it RIGHT. I also went a STEP FURTHER, and mod'd the clutch line also - replacing the rubber portion with a piece of stainless/teflon line, and wrapping the entire assy in 1,500 degree fire-wrap. I believe Horsepower Sales now includes the "SickRick Slave Line Mod", in all HP clutch swaps at thier shop.
REAL STUPID design move on GM's part, putting a piece of rubber in a hydraulic line, exactly where it runs past the exhuast manifold (particularly a piece of rubber that has "not for brake use" right on it), where it can get cooked, have thermal expansion issues, and aid in the boiling of the clutch fluid - ESPECIALLY on a header car - just ask the first couple of SuperMaxx header users on the C6, before Dyntech included a clamp to hold the line AWAY from the header - they had thier cars CATCH FIRE).
Any way, clutch manufacturers are quick to point the finger at hydraulics. If you've verified yours, I'd get another clutch assy from them, as you likely just got a bad one (again, feces happens).
Regards,
Rick
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#11
Team Owner
I fixed mine for 50 cents:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...00/ppuser/6747
Anything to reduce clutch throw may solve your problem. For a few cents and just a little time, it can't hurt!
That's a sliding window track lock that bolts on backwards to the clutch arm 'nubbin'. So the head of the bolt contacts the floorboard cut-out switch about an inch early. This reduces the clutch throw. 'Over-throwing ' the clutch can contribute to the 'sticking to the floor' problem. Just don't go too far with this, or the clutch won't completely disengage.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...00/ppuser/6747
Anything to reduce clutch throw may solve your problem. For a few cents and just a little time, it can't hurt!
That's a sliding window track lock that bolts on backwards to the clutch arm 'nubbin'. So the head of the bolt contacts the floorboard cut-out switch about an inch early. This reduces the clutch throw. 'Over-throwing ' the clutch can contribute to the 'sticking to the floor' problem. Just don't go too far with this, or the clutch won't completely disengage.
#12
Burning Brakes
I'm dealing with this very same issue. I don't know what the fix is. I'm running the OZ700 and I love the clutch otherwise. Chatter free, smooth, has a great feeling for where the clutch will engage, and most of all, not much pedal effort over stock.
However, I was having this problem which is why I changed the clutch in the first place. A new clutch did not fix my problem. I changed the slave and master when I did my swap and had the slave replaced again to no avail.
So one clutch, two slaves, and a master later and I'm still having the same problem on a clutch that should be rated for 700lb. ft of tq. I'm nowhere near that pushing 485/425 on head/cam setup.
Dougie
However, I was having this problem which is why I changed the clutch in the first place. A new clutch did not fix my problem. I changed the slave and master when I did my swap and had the slave replaced again to no avail.
So one clutch, two slaves, and a master later and I'm still having the same problem on a clutch that should be rated for 700lb. ft of tq. I'm nowhere near that pushing 485/425 on head/cam setup.
Dougie
#13
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10
I fixed mine for 50 cents:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...00/ppuser/6747
Anything to reduce clutch throw may solve your problem. For a few cents and just a little time, it can't hurt!
That's a sliding window track lock that bolts on backwards to the clutch arm 'nubbin'. So the head of the bolt contacts the floorboard cut-out switch about an inch early. This reduces the clutch throw. 'Over-throwing ' the clutch can contribute to the 'sticking to the floor' problem. Just don't go too far with this, or the clutch won't completely disengage.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/phot...00/ppuser/6747
Anything to reduce clutch throw may solve your problem. For a few cents and just a little time, it can't hurt!
That's a sliding window track lock that bolts on backwards to the clutch arm 'nubbin'. So the head of the bolt contacts the floorboard cut-out switch about an inch early. This reduces the clutch throw. 'Over-throwing ' the clutch can contribute to the 'sticking to the floor' problem. Just don't go too far with this, or the clutch won't completely disengage.
I tried the Carolina Clutch Stop and it did not help me!!
#14
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Looks like several of you may benefit by spending less than an hour and $10 cleaning up your clutch fluid. Certainly worth a try. Has worked for me for six years and 500 passes.
As SickRick posted earlier in this thread, heat is the enemy of clutch fluid. So cleaning your fluid through repeated changes is a very good first step toward remediation.
If it doesn't solve the problem you're experiencing, then at least you'll know.
Ranger
As SickRick posted earlier in this thread, heat is the enemy of clutch fluid. So cleaning your fluid through repeated changes is a very good first step toward remediation.
If it doesn't solve the problem you're experiencing, then at least you'll know.
Ranger
#15
#16
Burning Brakes
#17
Tech Contributor