Clutch Pedal -- Questions
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Clutch Pedal -- Questions
Beautiful Day …. Got ’99 out of garage to drive and then decide to take ’65 …. Started it up put on seat belt ….Push in clutch and BOOM…Clutch pedal broke off
I knew it needed repair BUT I was waiting until I removed dash to install Harness, A/C, Radio/speaker, etc. No more waiting.
So out with Tilt Column I just installed a few weeks ago, remove Master Cylinder then pedal support assembly.
So much for going our for a drive
Question at bottom
Here is what it looks like:
Questions:
(1) Should I weld or buy new pedal ($70 ouch)?
(2) If weld, then, in the 2nd pic above the is a crack in the pedal. I think that when shaft is welded I can weld pedal at same time and it will hold. What do you think?
(3) I the 3rd pic above there are 2 hole 1) for normal pedal travel and 2) for shorter travel. Which is which I could find in manuals?
(4) After I had everything on the work bench and was removing tools from floor of vette I found washer/spacer/?? in pic 4 above. Where does it go?
Thanks
George
I knew it needed repair BUT I was waiting until I removed dash to install Harness, A/C, Radio/speaker, etc. No more waiting.
So out with Tilt Column I just installed a few weeks ago, remove Master Cylinder then pedal support assembly.
So much for going our for a drive
Question at bottom
Here is what it looks like:
Questions:
(1) Should I weld or buy new pedal ($70 ouch)?
(2) If weld, then, in the 2nd pic above the is a crack in the pedal. I think that when shaft is welded I can weld pedal at same time and it will hold. What do you think?
(3) I the 3rd pic above there are 2 hole 1) for normal pedal travel and 2) for shorter travel. Which is which I could find in manuals?
(4) After I had everything on the work bench and was removing tools from floor of vette I found washer/spacer/?? in pic 4 above. Where does it go?
Thanks
George
#3
Safety Car
Weld it. Original design is a little marginal.
I had a new pin made about 5/8"(?) longer and necked down on the pedal end (don't forget the snap ring groove). Welded up pedal arm and drilled it out to match the necked down portion of the new pin. The new pin protruded thru the arm 1/8"-3/16" to give me space for a nice fillet weld.
Back in the old days I had a super stiff 11" clutch and broke every item in the clutch linkage one time or another.
Don't remember a spacer like that.
I had a new pin made about 5/8"(?) longer and necked down on the pedal end (don't forget the snap ring groove). Welded up pedal arm and drilled it out to match the necked down portion of the new pin. The new pin protruded thru the arm 1/8"-3/16" to give me space for a nice fillet weld.
Back in the old days I had a super stiff 11" clutch and broke every item in the clutch linkage one time or another.
Don't remember a spacer like that.
#4
Melting Slicks
Exact same thing happened to me in my 63 SWC, it took about four hours just to remove the "horseshoe" collar which houses the clutch and brake pedal. I did not even hesitate to buy a new one, if you weld it you run the risk of "BUBBAIZING" the car..... I vote for a new one.....
Forgot to add, I bought a new pedal from LI Corvette.
Forgot to add, I bought a new pedal from LI Corvette.
#5
Racer
I had the original pedal welded considering some of the repro parts are made with thinner guage metal. I bought the weld on kit whiich has a new shaft that gets welded onto the pedal. $12 compared to $80 and it's fine so far.
#6
Safety Car
Thread Starter
How about questions 3 & 4?
Anybody
George
Anybody
George
#7
Racer
On #4 I think there is a spacer that goes where the clutch push rod attaches to the clutch pedal with the clip. #3 I remember reading that one of the two ways you setup the clutch it will engage quicker (sort of a racing set up and stock) but as to which one is which you'd have to check the manual.
#8
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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Originally Posted by Black_Magic
How about questions 3 & 4?
Anybody
George
Anybody
George
#9
Here are some pics of the "Linkage adjustment to reduce clutch pedal travel to permit fast release and more rapid gear shifting" ( Quoted from the Owners Guide ).
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Looks like bubba lost your original spacer, here is what it should look like.
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One more thing you may have to do is turn the clutch pedal push rod so that the bend in the rod is facing " up ". It depends which way bubba put it in the last time.
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.
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Looks like bubba lost your original spacer, here is what it should look like.
.
.
One more thing you may have to do is turn the clutch pedal push rod so that the bend in the rod is facing " up ". It depends which way bubba put it in the last time.
Last edited by buns; 08-16-2006 at 05:00 PM.
#10
Le Mans Master
Serveral Reasons To Replace with new....
(1)... It's a PITA to take apart again if your repair should Fail..
(2)... Piece of mind Knowing that it'a a brand new part..
(3)...Brake Pedal is Connected to this assembly..(Thought in back of your mind as you tool down the highway..Gee...I wounder if that brake pedal will snap.. )
(4)...It's only Money and This is a C-2 which requires money to operate.
Think of it as ..Rebuilding your C-2 While Driving it.
(5)...Bragging rights ...being able to say..Heh...I just spent the money for a new one..
(1)... It's a PITA to take apart again if your repair should Fail..
(2)... Piece of mind Knowing that it'a a brand new part..
(3)...Brake Pedal is Connected to this assembly..(Thought in back of your mind as you tool down the highway..Gee...I wounder if that brake pedal will snap.. )
(4)...It's only Money and This is a C-2 which requires money to operate.
Think of it as ..Rebuilding your C-2 While Driving it.
(5)...Bragging rights ...being able to say..Heh...I just spent the money for a new one..
#11
Racer
clutch
[ QUOTE=buns;1556528886]Here are some pics of the "Linkage adjustment to reduce clutch pedal travel to permit fast release and more rapid gear shifting" ( Quoted from the Owners Guide ).
.
.
.
Looks like bubba lost your original spacer, here is what it should look like.
.
.
One more thing you may have to do is turn the clutch pedal push rod so that the bend in the rod is facing " up ". It depends which way bubba put it in the last time.[/QUOTE]
went on search for this information, you had it, nice pictures,
helped me out , just replacing clutch pedal and could not remember
where it was set for normal clutch setting.
fredski
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.
.
Looks like bubba lost your original spacer, here is what it should look like.
.
.
One more thing you may have to do is turn the clutch pedal push rod so that the bend in the rod is facing " up ". It depends which way bubba put it in the last time.[/QUOTE]
went on search for this information, you had it, nice pictures,
helped me out , just replacing clutch pedal and could not remember
where it was set for normal clutch setting.
fredski
#14
Safety Car
#15
Race Director
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Inverness FL
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St. Jude Donor '07
Beautiful Day …. Got ’99 out of garage to drive and then decide to take ’65 …. Started it up put on seat belt ….Push in clutch and BOOM…Clutch pedal broke off
I knew it needed repair BUT I was waiting until I removed dash to install Harness, A/C, Radio/speaker, etc. No more waiting.
So out with Tilt Column I just installed a few weeks ago, remove Master Cylinder then pedal support assembly.
So much for going our for a drive
Question at bottom
Here is what it looks like:
Questions:
(1) Should I weld or buy new pedal ($70 ouch)?
(2) If weld, then, in the 2nd pic above the is a crack in the pedal. I think that when shaft is welded I can weld pedal at same time and it will hold. What do you think?
(3) I the 3rd pic above there are 2 hole 1) for normal pedal travel and 2) for shorter travel. Which is which I could find in manuals?
(4) After I had everything on the work bench and was removing tools from floor of vette I found washer/spacer/?? in pic 4 above. Where does it go?
Thanks
George
I knew it needed repair BUT I was waiting until I removed dash to install Harness, A/C, Radio/speaker, etc. No more waiting.
So out with Tilt Column I just installed a few weeks ago, remove Master Cylinder then pedal support assembly.
So much for going our for a drive
Question at bottom
Here is what it looks like:
Questions:
(1) Should I weld or buy new pedal ($70 ouch)?
(2) If weld, then, in the 2nd pic above the is a crack in the pedal. I think that when shaft is welded I can weld pedal at same time and it will hold. What do you think?
(3) I the 3rd pic above there are 2 hole 1) for normal pedal travel and 2) for shorter travel. Which is which I could find in manuals?
(4) After I had everything on the work bench and was removing tools from floor of vette I found washer/spacer/?? in pic 4 above. Where does it go?
Thanks
George
3) the hole combination that makes the pedal rest closer to the floor, when it is fully up, is the 'fast' position
4) the washer looks like an 'extra' part; OR, what John Z says...
Bill
#16
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
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There are two washers that go on the pin where the pedal pushrod connects; the inner one (.200" thick) goes between the pushrod and the bracket, and the outer one (thinner, about 1/8") goes between the pushrod and the pretzel clip that retains the pushrod on the pin.
The inner (thick) washer acts as a spacer - it moves the flat end of the pushrod far enough away from the bracket that the round portion of the pushrod won't interfere with the edge of the bracket when the pedal is fully depressed.
The inner (thick) washer acts as a spacer - it moves the flat end of the pushrod far enough away from the bracket that the round portion of the pushrod won't interfere with the edge of the bracket when the pedal is fully depressed.
#17
Melting Slicks
Replace it! My pedal had been welded unkown to me. Snapped just as I pulled in the garage....Lucky me! The metal on your pedal is already stressed. I put a new one in and I am much more confident when I slam on the clutch. $70.00 for a safety issue is money well spent.
#19
Safety Car
Thread Starter