jacking up the Vette
 

I am learning as much as I can about my vette. I am a DIYer so want to be able to do as much as possible myself. What about all the talk about jacking my car up? Is there a problem with how it is done? How about using a two column lift (I have access to one where I work). Where are the best locations to set the lift points? Right at the regular jack locations?

I've read where you need to open the doors, hood, rear hatch, and then I read "Don't open" or it doesn't matter. Sorry about the length of this post, but I don't want to screw this up.

A lot depends on the year of your Vette. The early C4s were not as structurally sound as the later ones.

I would leave the top in, tho.

lifting on the jacking points is ok, but the best place is just inside the frame. If you crawl under a little, and look just inside the jacking points, you will see where several seams converge. These points are VERY strong for lifting. Make sure at the rear you don't pinch either the fuel lines (pass side) or brake lines (driver side).

Opening the hood and the doors won't hurt.

Good luck!

When I swap DRs & streets I use the two rear jacking points and the stock jack.

I open the hood, the hatch, the doors and loosen the top. I've heard that jacking one side with the top secure can over stress the windshield.

I've jacked my car up with a floor jack on one side, floor jack in the middle(front) floor jack at the rear, scissors jack at the sides, two post lift,ramps, you name it. Never had an issue ever.

Same here. In fact, I've even inadvertently had the car "balance" itself on 3 jack stands (I didn't leave it like that, of course). Point is, these cars are a hell of a lot more rigid than they're given credit for. The frame rails near the jack points are very strong, and I often jack at the jack points and put the stands under the frame rails. The same can be done in the rear. Just always shake the car vigorously prior to climbing under it.

I jacked up my 95 Vert yesterday. Placed the jack right behind the front wheel. All the way up it was on one wheel. Put jack stands at the front (not level as I need to get to the clutch slave) and lowered it back down. Good couple shoves to make sure it was sturdy and opened the hood and driver's door, no probs.

In the book "101 Projects for Your Corvette" (or something like that) by Richard Newton, he recommends that the C4 be lifted via a floor jack at a point halfway between the front and rear wheels. This allows you to lift the whole side of the car with one jack. You can then place a jack stand at the lift points right behind the front wheel and right in front of the rear wheel. I've done this many times with a 3 ton floor jack. Just be careful where you place the "saddle" of the jack--damage can occur to the bottom of the rocker panel and/or the brake line. Luckily, I do NOT speaf from experience on that one!

:iagree: I always jack it up in the center and place jackstands at the marked jacking points. Works great

That's what I do to get the whole side in the air, works great ... and put a hockey puck on top of the jack.

I have also jacked the front end using a floor jack under the front cross member and at the rear using a C4 EZ jack under the differential.
These give me the options of having the front jacked or the rear jacked in addition to the previous posts which let you raise one side or the other

I had an exgirlfriend who's brother had a 86 with a glass top, he jacked it up and cracked the top. After that he would remove the top before lifting it. Me on the other had have had the Ruby setting on two jack stands one on the passenger side front and one on the drivers side rear and no problems. I would not tell anyone to do that, nor would I do it again. :smash:

OK, so what about the 2 post lifts? So far Everyone is referring to floor jacks (which is good that is what I have at home) but where should I place the 4 lift points on the 2 post lift we have at school? The similar locations as the floor jacks, I just don't want to screw things up!

Ditto.... and I have to question, why would one find it necessary to open the doors, hood etc.? If they are worried about the rigidity, this would seem counter-productive. Not that there's any problem on C4s with opening a door and closing it again while jacked up, unlike earlier Vettes.

:iagree: also, I too have the Richard Newton book and this works great. :thumbs:

my 2 cents on the newton method
 

I just tried the "Richard Newton" method of jacking the whole side of the car up. For me, it didn't work so great. Basically, the hydraulic jack deformed and bent the frame rail (right below the middle of the door). Not a big deal, but bad enough where I wouldn't do it again. I saw the other posts mentioned a hockey puck, but Newton didn't mention this in his book.

How do you use the puck, do you cut a slot to allow the frame rail to sit in it?