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Wiper Override switch, how does it work?
I just finally installed the wiper override switch in my car, it never had one. I'm talking about the electrical piece, not the Vacuum switch for the door.
How is it supposed to work? If I turn the switch while the wipers are running, they don't stop. As far as I can tell the wires are hooked up correctly, a Red 12G wire from the bulk harness and a R/W 12G wire going up to the light switch both hook up to it according to the manual, and the R/W is hot (verified with vold ohmmeter. Thanks. |
Re: Wiper Override switch, how does it work? (Steve Straus)
Sounds like the Override switch below the steering column.
Your switch may have failed. Disconnect the harness wires and test for connect/disconnect as you turn the knob while connected to your ohmmeter. I just replaced mine with the same problem. |
Re: Wiper Override switch, how does it work? (flynhi)
Sounds like the Override switch below the steering column. Your switch may have failed. Disconnect the harness wires and test for connect/disconnect as you turn the knob while connected to your ohmmeter. I just replaced mine with the same problem. |
Re: Wiper Override switch, how does it work? (Steve Straus)
Should the wiper stop when I turn the knob? The wipers operate regardless of the position that the knob is in. |
Re: Wiper Override switch, how does it work? (Steve Straus)
OK, first off your under dash switch is most likely not defective, especially since it's new...mine was 25 years old, and still good, but now a daze, since I rewired the entire car, it's eliminated...sounds like someone did that to yours also....under the dash or under the hood, either way....
the red and red white and then red again thick wires all feed through various devices to the red lead of the wiper motor...see you have 12 volts there when i'ts supposed to be running...if not, may have a blown fusible link...or bad button switch actuated by door....mine is 30- years old and i'ts fine, and i'ts a microswitch made piece of gear, so I doubt it bad.... second off you need another 12 volt source on the YELLOW wires of the controlll circuit regardless of the switch position....third off...you need to see absolutely ZERO to about .2 volts MAX between the engine and the wiper motor case...meaning the case is not properly grounded....it will set there and do nothing if not grounded by that black spade terminal just next to the 3 wire plug in....the 2 wire plug in is the washer, and has NO effect on the wiper function itself.... NOW check the ground of the wiper switch itself....all it really ever does is ground either the dark blue or the light blue and the dark blue....in some combination to give slo and then hi speed.....IF the switch itself is not seeing ground...broken bezel is/can be a cause....the ground for wiper switch as I recall if through the bezel...that large frame for radio/gauges/a-c ducts/and wiper controll.....so run a wire from the switch frame to ground on the body/birdcage somewhere...... NOW is you still have NO wipers..... check the motor is grounded to engine...voltage check, check if 12 volt wire red is HOT.....check if yellow is hot....then meter the 2 blue wires...they are the ones grounded by the wiper switch to activate the motor in either speed..as explained above....IF they are hot...the switch or the switch grounding or maybe even a wiring harness problem.... das all folks..... GENE :D |
Re: Wiper Override switch, how does it work? (mrvette)
OK, first off your under dash switch is most likely not defective, especially since it's new...mine was 25 years old, and still good, but now a daze, since I rewired the entire car, it's eliminated...sounds like someone did that to yours also....under the dash or under the hood, either way.... the red and red white and then red again thick wires all feed through various devices to the red lead of the wiper motor...see you have 12 volts there when i'ts supposed to be running...if not, may have a blown fusible link...or bad button switch actuated by door....mine is 30- years old and i'ts fine, and i'ts a microswitch made piece of gear, so I doubt it bad.... second off you need another 12 volt source on the YELLOW wires of the controlll circuit regardless of the switch position....third off...you need to see absolutely ZERO to about .2 volts MAX between the engine and the wiper motor case...meaning the case is not properly grounded....it will set there and do nothing if not grounded by that black spade terminal just next to the 3 wire plug in....the 2 wire plug in is the washer, and has NO effect on the wiper function itself.... NOW check the ground of the wiper switch itself....all it really ever does is ground either the dark blue or the light blue and the dark blue....in some combination to give slo and then hi speed.....IF the switch itself is not seeing ground...broken bezel is/can be a cause....the ground for wiper switch as I recall if through the bezel...that large frame for radio/gauges/a-c ducts/and wiper controll.....so run a wire from the switch frame to ground on the body/birdcage somewhere...... NOW is you still have NO wipers..... check the motor is grounded to engine...voltage check, check if 12 volt wire red is HOT.....check if yellow is hot....then meter the 2 blue wires...they are the ones grounded by the wiper switch to activate the motor in either speed..as explained above....IF they are hot...the switch or the switch grounding or maybe even a wiring harness problem.... das all folks..... GENE :D |
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