Corvette is dead! Help!
 

Went into the store. Rerun to the car to drive back home. Get in drivers seat and cluster message says "key fob out of range" or something like that. Clutters lights were working everything was fine. I tried putting key fob in the glove box slot and no change. Figure my battery was weak so replaced key fob battery with no change. Thought maybe my car battery was weak bc it did die on my yeterday. Replaced at battery with new battery and no change. Now I can't even get my clutter to light up or get the car to accessory mode. The car doesant do anything except under hood light and interior lights work. Gauge cluster is dead. Radio is dead. Door looks it dead. Doors won't even lock/unlock with remote. Checked all fuses and everything is good. If I hit the start button I hear relays clicking. The cluster is just off and won't do anything anymore. Any ideas?

Battery connections are tight and corrosion free. Also the ground is tight and corrosion free.

Thinking its theft deterrent. Anyone familiar with the theft system on 05 c6? Hopefully I can avoid a tow to the dealer.

Odd.. New battery is good obviously, and you're hearing the relays indicating it's functioning when attempting to start.

Have you tried the key fob in the slot in the glove box with the new battery? Are there any other people around you that may have a fob that could interfere? You may have lost the fob connection with the car when you replaced the batteries- have you tried re-initializing the fob using the forum sticky for that?

Could be the ignition relay.. You don't hear about those going back all too often, but it can happen.. I doubt it's the theft deterrent relay really.

Yeah I tried putting the fob into the slot in the glove box before replacing the fob battery. I swapped around relays with others to see if it will change anything. Don't know why nothing works besides interior lights,fuel door and trunk release buttons from inside the car. The remote doesn't do anything. My gauge cluster is just black. I had the battery disconnected over an hr to see if it will reset the PCM or something.

Sorry bud- I don't have any more ideas for you. If it is the ignition relay you'd need a mechanic to find out for sure anyways. And then they'd have to replace it. Try the fob in the slot again one last time with the new battery in that and the car and see if it'll give a crank.

Otherwise it sounds like you might have to pull a tow and go. Unless someone else here has any suggestions.

Just tried fob in slot again and still nothing. Okay thanks

you stated you bought a new battery. did you have it charged prior to install as your issues sounds battery related.

:iagree:

Sounds like the battery may have enough juice to light the lights, but that's all.

Try charging the battery or jump start.

Just got it off the tow truck and into the garage. Im going to load test the battery and see what happens. I hope its battery related but im doubting it. I did try to get a jump start and same thing. The cluster is completely dead and my fob wont lock/unlock the doors. If I turn my headlight switch on my lights are working but my cluster doesant light up. Also if I close the doors and try to open from the inside it doesant do anything. I have to pull the manual lever to open the doors. I double checked all the fuses and relays and everything if fine. If my battery load test good I will inspect the wiring harness where is goes through the firewall on the passenger side. The reason I want to inspect there is because I just ran a nitrous feed line through there two days ago.

Battery passed load test.

Check the wires at your starter. Thats what happened to me.

This might have been good to mention at the beginning. Check this area...anything that you did, or that happened recently is likely to be involved here. :thumbs:

Starter wires are clean and tight. Removed wires and re installed. Still nothing. Starting to think its the BCM/PCM. Any other ideas?

I also checked for voltage at the starter terminal. I am getting battery volts there. Also removed fuse block and checked everything on the underside of that. Eveything looks ok. Removed the PCM/BCM and checked all terminals for signs of burn. All is ok.

Try completely disconnecting your N2O setup. If it's fused pull the fuse AND pull the power wires. A stuck/shorted solenoid will draw more power the instant you try to start the car than you could believe.

Think I may have found the problem. Think its the BCM/ECU on pass floor board. Reason is I found previous owner taped into the yellow wire coming off the upper left connector on BCM. I traced the wire and found its an isimple aux ipod transmitter. When I was looking for 12v source will key in accessory for nitrous arming switch I taped into the power wire that was feeding the isimple transmitter not knowing that was ran into the yellow wire on BCM connector. Im thinking my nitrous solenoid may have slowly killed the BCM by drawing high amps. The thing is that the car and nitrous solenoids worked fine for two days. I believe this killed my BCM. Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the fuse block/BCU?

The N20 switch is fused with 15A and the isimple is fused with a 2A. Neither one of these fuses are blown.

Ordered new BCM. It should be in by tonight. Any change would be good. Then off to the dealer for re program. I'll keep you guys updated.

Try asking for someone with a tech II to check it out. The remote control receiver may have died and does not read the FOB. Is the theft light on?

Fuse Box
 

Make sure your fuse box is secured, tighten down all 4 post .

you may have a bad ground at the fuse box.

I have a 2005 vette and my fuse box became loose and ungrounded, my would not start.

hope this helps.

enzo

Thanks guys. BCM didn't make it here yet. Should be in tomorrow im guessing. No security light or anything. Instrument cluster is completely dead. Only thing that works on the car is the under hood light and headlight and taillights when I switch them to on. I spoke with a tech that has a tech2 scan tool and I will get him to re program the BCM once I install it. Fuse box is tight and all grounds are good and clean. The starter wire is good. Wiring harness is good also. No blown fuses or relays. New key fob battery and car battery. Hopefully once I install the new BCM at least my cluster should come back and ask for key FOB.

Installed new BCM and no change. The 4 post that secure the fuse box are snug. Is that the post that ground the fuse box? If so im not getting continuity to ground on either one of those 4 post.

Just realized when I connect my battery post to the battery I can hear something wine in my dash. Almost like the sound of a fuel pump priming. My best guess is nav/radio. My power seats will work but my door locks and windows don't. Also my emergency flashers work but wont show in my cluster because my cluster is still dead. With my battery connected I checked for voltage at the PCM 15A fuse on BCM and im not getting voltage there. Not sure if I should be getting it there and if so when? I am getting battery voltage to my BCM from the red with black stripe wire and also the red with white stripe.

Your mention of the board under the passenger side reminded me of this post.. I would check it out:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...g-gremlin.html

Did the BCM wiggle test with no change. I double checked my wiring harness and did find this. Which I thought for sure would fix my problem. I soldered and heat shrink these two wires but still nothing. Does anyone know if a bad key fob or security system would cause these symptoms? Any last resorts before I have to tow this to the dealership?

Wanted to give y'all an update. The car is at the dealership getting checked out. The advisor called me letting me know they can't communicate with any of the modules. There going to check each module.

Keep us updated, I'm actually really interested now in finding out what was up with it.

I hate the dreaded "can't communicate with module" thing from the advisor... just had my TCM go out and had it replaced. Car is great now though :thumbs:

Good luck!!

:iagree:

Yeah I'm hope it's just the BCM. I'll def keep y'all updated.

Hey there,

I’m sorry that I did not see this earlier, but we’re around as well to answer any questions you may have. Let me know how it goes. Have a good day!

Jennie R.
Chevrolet Customer Care

Having a similar issue. Definitely interested as to what is it.

end of the story, is it running?

No. Dealer still hasn't found the problem.

anyupdates?

Went to the dealer today and all the service advisor could tell me was they had nothing for me yet. All they tell me is they cant communicate with any of my modules and need to test each module. Its been 4wks! starting to get ridiculous. GM service is awful.

mines did the same thing and my car was a bad pcm have they checked your pcm 4 weeks with no car and they still dont know what is going on.

They already tried a the new BCM and still couldn't communicate. This Saturday would be 6 weeks they had the car. I know the RCDLR sends a signal to the BCM then the BCM sends a signal the PCM. Its either of these 3 modules they just havnt been working on it. I talked to the tech yesterday and they told me they only work on it 1-2hrs here and there. Then I told them my opinion on that and how its been 5 weeks. Also said ill send it else where if they cant handle it or get forward progress on the car. So your car was acting the same way as mine? How did your problem start?

I found a good used PCM. Ill send it to them to try once I receive it in the mail.

Did they ever figure your car out...hope I never have this problem but its nice to know for future ts..

just reading thru, did the car die after you installed the nitrous feed?!? maybe disconnect that in its entirety and see how symptoms are.

Just an fyi my freinds 05 c6 has gone through 2 bad PCMs...i would swap the pcm and rule that out

No they haven't figured it out yet. The used PCM that I bought for them to try was from a 06 and it wasn't the right PCM. I thought 05-13 was the same. Apparently something with the 2005 PCM's weren't that great because GM redesigned the PCM for 06-13. The 2005 have a E40 PCM and 06-13 have a different which I believe is E38 if I remember correctly.I bought a new OEM PCM and gave it to the dealer today. I should find something out by tomorrow if the new PCM is the problem. All nitrous wiring is removed until they figure it out. At this point I believe the nitrous had nothing to do with it.

Was is acting the same as mine? Completely dead?

Just a update on the problem. The dealer tried the new PCM and got the car to power up and was able to retrieve 4 codes from the steering column. The bad news is they telling me they don't know which codes and the car no longer powers up. They think another module is pulling it down. Not sure if they giving me the run aroun are not but that's all I got for now.

Wow ....mite be time for a move. I feel for ya dude..:(

[QUOTE=Twowheelin_wildman;1587113240]Wow ....mite be time for a move. I feel for ya dude..:([/QUOTE

With no forward progress in almost 3 months I decided to take the car back. It's currently at my home in my garage. I purchased a genuine tech 2 with the latest software and TIS2000. Won't be home for another 2 weeks but looking forward to bringing this lil beast back. Thanks everyone.

have they tried removing the starter and bench testing it?

Starter is good. I jumped the starter relay and the car turned over. The problem is the car won't power up. Almost like a dead battery.

Anything new... I am watching intently as I have the same issue in my 2007.

Mine did the exact same thing. Cranked, no start. It was a bad PCM. Luckily they aren't too expensive.

For the record mine doesn't crank. The car is completely dead then it will go into accessory mode and get all kinds of trouble messages on dash. I then hit start and it dies again. The inside lights do not work and the head lights do not come on either when it goes into accessory mode.

When I said crank, I was referring to jumping the starter...cranks over but no start.
I pressed the start button, power would go dead for about 10 secs , then come back on.

Just got home from work and my tech 2 was here. Plugged the tech 2 into the DLC and I cant communicate with any module. Any suggestions? Let the fun begin!

SAME exact problem I had. It's your ebcm or Pcm. Most likely PCM. They go for about $300 and the dealer will have to program it to your car.

I already tried a BCM and PCM. I also have a tech 2 so I wont need to go to the dealer for programing. Unless the pcm or bcm that I bought new are bad off the shelf. Didn't you mention that your gauges would light up? Mine is completely dead. Only thing that works is my power seats and headlights. Cluster,radio,key fob,doors,windows, etc are not working.

Did the dealer reprogram your new pcm? Or did you just plug and play?

And for me, it was:
Push start, cluster comes up for a bit.
If u push started again, everything would die. 10 secs or so later , the cluster would come back. That would repeat as many times as I'd hit start button. No starter crank-nothing. When I jumped the starter, it would crank the engine-no start.

( just reread that you have a tech 2)

They cant communicate with any module so they couldn't program it. Also the car wont go into accessory mode. I need to get the car into accessory mode before I can program the modules. I need to figure out why I cant go into accessory mode. At this point I don't think is my bcm or pcm.

Mine couldn't communicate either. Hooked up an obd2 reader that was CAN capable. Keep me posted. Sounds exactly like my issue, and it was the PCM. You've checked all relays? Swapped em out?
Been working on planes(electronics) 14years now...it's rare to get a bad new part, but happens roughly around 5 percent of the time.
Keep me posted!

All relays, fuses, and grounds are good. I can hear relays clicking and the RCDLR making noise but nothing powers up. Im about to pull the wiring harness and check that again. Ill keep posted, thanks

I was able to get communication with some of the modules today. Im not sure why I got communication today and yesterday I hadn't. The car sat over night with the negative battery cable off and NAV/radio disconnected. I also got my key fob working. It does unlock and lock my doors and also is being seen by the RCDLR. It will also unlock the doors from door pad. It does not how ever flash the lights or beep the horn when locking or locking but it does lock and unlock the door. I believe the nav/radio is shorted or the circuit to it is. The reason I say that is because the tech 2 cant communicate with the RCDLR when the nav/radio is plugged in and connected. Once I unplug the nav/radio I can communicate with the RCDLR. I was able to get DTC's.

B1420 Device voltage. Pass. door module

B1451 Device ignition accessory circuit short to battery

B1325 Device power 1 circuit voltage below threshold

B2907 Steering column lock motor enable relay circuit

B1480 Battery rundown protection circuit

U1064 Steering column lock module

U1305 steering column lock module

U1064 Passenger door module- lost communication with BCM/dash intergration module

U1164 Lost communication with driver door switch/pass door module

U1153 Passenger door module - lost communication with climate control panel

U1300 class 2 data link low- vehicle communication interface module

U1193 Steering column lock module- lost communication with RCDLR

U1064 heads up display - lost communication with BCM

U1000 Class 2 data link

U1000 Class 2 data link - BCM

U2108 Lost communication with ABS/TCS control system

U2105 Lost communication with Engine control system

Damn goodluck

I had a simular problem; in my case it was an add on ipod adapter that was disrupting the communications on the class 2 serial bus. I am not sure how the i-simple that you have sends music to the nav/radio; but the unit I had sent information over the serial bus. You might try disconnecting the unit and see if anything changes.

Geez. just bought a 2011 Grand sport and this thread has me scared.... LOL

Long shot suggestion, how is the transmission tunnel wire harness? Particularly the portion that goes from computer and then down along firewall to rear / above torque tube. The harness is attached to the firewall with a metal bracket which can chaffe the harness. The chaffing can short out wires.

The I-simple has been disconnected. I think my nav unit is the problem. Once I disconnect my nav unit I can communicate with my RCDLR. I do think the I-simple and nitrous system caused the issue. Reason is because I used the isimple voltage feed for my 12V accessory for nitrous. being the I-simple was connected to my nav/radio it possibly shorted the radio or radio circuit. The funny thing is I have no blown fuses. i'm getting closer as I was able to get my cluster working and vehicle into accessory mode. Also got my gauges to do a gauge sweep once! Ill keep you guys updated

Thanks for the heads up. Checked it and wire harness is ok in that area.

Has the steering column lock been replaced ( a new one installed since this happened)?

No its hasn't. The steering column lock is original.

In my opinion, the 1st thing you need to do is replace it with a new one. The car will not work if it is not functioning properly.


Once it malfunctioned, it could be causing a short...

Just an update. As of now my car seems to work fine as far as class2 goes. Also my power seat still has an issue. Not sure if its related to all this or not. My key fobs lock/unlock with fob and also now gives the light flash and horn chirp when locking. It now senses the car in reverse when turning ignition button to off. This is what happens now. I unlock car and get in vehicle, push clutch in and press start button. I hear the steering column unlock then it takes 10 seconds for the cluster to power up and give the gauge sweep. I try to hit start again and the cluster goes dark like it was off then 10 seconds later it powers up and gives the gauge sweep and displays reduce engine power. Connect tech 2 and I get 0 DTC's but have a few modules the tech 2 cant communicate with.

These modules show no communication: BCM, Drivers position module, EBCM, Electronic suspension control(don't have because I have the Z51 option), Folding top module(don't have), NAV radio(I have disconnected for now), Radio (its disconnected for now) , Supplemental inflation restraint module.

The thing that confuses me is why I get no communication with BCM and PCM when I viewed DTC's before and also my key fobs are working and being recognized. Also Everything is working normal except the 10 second delay with the gauge sweep and no start. My HUD, AC, And all accessory modes are woking normal. I can view my tire pressure, Fuel, Trip, etc.

Seems like slowly but surely your getting there, been following this thread for awhile, one question... do you have any hair left..lol. good luck to ya!

Sorry for the false info on not being able to communicate with BCM, ECM, etc. I am currently able to communicate with all modules. Still trying to figure out the delay in my gauge sweep when hitting start button. Didn't realize I wasn't in run position with scan tool connected lmao.

Hahaha..its a PITA but for some odd reason I love working on cars.

hmm..I also now have the 10 second delay.

Steering column, seat memory, and power seats are now working! Found an open wire in the seat module. The placement of this module is ridiculous. The module is flush and attached with the seat springs, your basically sitting on top the module.

Did it start now? Certainly looks like you found the problem.

Still no start. Im going to try programming my spare ECM tonight and see what happens.

It's alive! We can finally put this thread to an end. Reprogrammed the new ECM and theft deterrent today. Did the crank relearn also. I'm assuming my nitrous solenoid was the culprit. My nav unit shorted out and my PCM was bad.

:thumbs:

Glad you got it going. I also had broken wire on seat. While sitting in seat, nothing worked, get off seat all fine... Later car dead... all dead. After BCM swaps etc, nothing. Started checking out individual modules and found Nav unit the problem. Thought the seat issue was BCM related, it was not, just a coincidence. (Everyone: "how come your car won't start"? Me: Radio's busted...:crazy:)Had to get a new one. True story... BTW it broke down at a 7-11 2mi. from the house. No big deal right? I was gassing up on my way to Florida late at night...Whew, Could have been worse. So, i feel your pain, and your relief that it's alive again. :thumbs:
p.s. sorry i didn't see the thread till now, would have been the 1st thing i would have suggested

Hallelujah!!! Good to hear.

Good to hear! :cheers:

I assume you needed the Tech 2 to reprogram the theft deterrent? I'm pretty convinced that is what's caused my sudden inability to start. I don't think the message to engage fuel delivery is getting to the ECM even though the RCDLR clearly recognizes the FOBs enough to lock/unlock the doors and allow the starter to engage.

At this point I'm looking for a semi-reasonably priced Tech 2.

Question for you....Did you have a passenger when this happened? If you did they pushed on the floorboard and caused a partial disconection of your high speed DATA BUS. If you push down on the two big blue connections on the BCM more than likely your car will act correctly for a while. You will find about 45 codes if you hook up the tech II. I had 5 of the pins loose in these connectors and it drove me crazy for a year +. The car would run fine and then no gages or the A/C would quit and the car would think it was no gas or no ABS ect. If it had not been for a great tech at my local dealership I would never figured this out.

Thanks everyone. It was indeed just the nav radio that killed my class 2 line communications and PCM. My nitrous solenoids are fine and working great. Hope this thread helps others down the road.

I doubt it's your theft causing your issues. The first thing I would check is fuel relay signal or check for fuel pressure.

Yeah, I ended up just buying a Tech 2 on eBay. Now that they're discontinued there seem to be a lot of them up for sale. No codes as you predicted.

I did disconnect the fuel line and command the fuel pump on. Fuel is coming out but I don't know if it's enough pressure. The fact that it typically fires for a couple seconds means I must be getting some spark.

I would double check make sure your getting spark. Also get a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and read the pressure at the rail.