Corvette is dead! Help!
 

Went into the store. Rerun to the car to drive back home. Get in drivers seat and cluster message says "key fob out of range" or something like that. Clutters lights were working everything was fine. I tried putting key fob in the glove box slot and no change. Figure my battery was weak so replaced key fob battery with no change. Thought maybe my car battery was weak bc it did die on my yeterday. Replaced at battery with new battery and no change. Now I can't even get my clutter to light up or get the car to accessory mode. The car doesant do anything except under hood light and interior lights work. Gauge cluster is dead. Radio is dead. Door looks it dead. Doors won't even lock/unlock with remote. Checked all fuses and everything is good. If I hit the start button I hear relays clicking. The cluster is just off and won't do anything anymore. Any ideas?

Battery connections are tight and corrosion free. Also the ground is tight and corrosion free.

Thinking its theft deterrent. Anyone familiar with the theft system on 05 c6? Hopefully I can avoid a tow to the dealer.

Odd.. New battery is good obviously, and you're hearing the relays indicating it's functioning when attempting to start.

Have you tried the key fob in the slot in the glove box with the new battery? Are there any other people around you that may have a fob that could interfere? You may have lost the fob connection with the car when you replaced the batteries- have you tried re-initializing the fob using the forum sticky for that?

Could be the ignition relay.. You don't hear about those going back all too often, but it can happen.. I doubt it's the theft deterrent relay really.

Yeah I tried putting the fob into the slot in the glove box before replacing the fob battery. I swapped around relays with others to see if it will change anything. Don't know why nothing works besides interior lights,fuel door and trunk release buttons from inside the car. The remote doesn't do anything. My gauge cluster is just black. I had the battery disconnected over an hr to see if it will reset the PCM or something.

Sorry bud- I don't have any more ideas for you. If it is the ignition relay you'd need a mechanic to find out for sure anyways. And then they'd have to replace it. Try the fob in the slot again one last time with the new battery in that and the car and see if it'll give a crank.

Otherwise it sounds like you might have to pull a tow and go. Unless someone else here has any suggestions.

Just tried fob in slot again and still nothing. Okay thanks

you stated you bought a new battery. did you have it charged prior to install as your issues sounds battery related.

:iagree:

Sounds like the battery may have enough juice to light the lights, but that's all.

Try charging the battery or jump start.

Just got it off the tow truck and into the garage. Im going to load test the battery and see what happens. I hope its battery related but im doubting it. I did try to get a jump start and same thing. The cluster is completely dead and my fob wont lock/unlock the doors. If I turn my headlight switch on my lights are working but my cluster doesant light up. Also if I close the doors and try to open from the inside it doesant do anything. I have to pull the manual lever to open the doors. I double checked all the fuses and relays and everything if fine. If my battery load test good I will inspect the wiring harness where is goes through the firewall on the passenger side. The reason I want to inspect there is because I just ran a nitrous feed line through there two days ago.

Battery passed load test.

Check the wires at your starter. Thats what happened to me.

This might have been good to mention at the beginning. Check this area...anything that you did, or that happened recently is likely to be involved here. :thumbs:

Starter wires are clean and tight. Removed wires and re installed. Still nothing. Starting to think its the BCM/PCM. Any other ideas?

I also checked for voltage at the starter terminal. I am getting battery volts there. Also removed fuse block and checked everything on the underside of that. Eveything looks ok. Removed the PCM/BCM and checked all terminals for signs of burn. All is ok.

Try completely disconnecting your N2O setup. If it's fused pull the fuse AND pull the power wires. A stuck/shorted solenoid will draw more power the instant you try to start the car than you could believe.

Think I may have found the problem. Think its the BCM/ECU on pass floor board. Reason is I found previous owner taped into the yellow wire coming off the upper left connector on BCM. I traced the wire and found its an isimple aux ipod transmitter. When I was looking for 12v source will key in accessory for nitrous arming switch I taped into the power wire that was feeding the isimple transmitter not knowing that was ran into the yellow wire on BCM connector. Im thinking my nitrous solenoid may have slowly killed the BCM by drawing high amps. The thing is that the car and nitrous solenoids worked fine for two days. I believe this killed my BCM. Does anyone have a wiring schematic for the fuse block/BCU?

The N20 switch is fused with 15A and the isimple is fused with a 2A. Neither one of these fuses are blown.

Ordered new BCM. It should be in by tonight. Any change would be good. Then off to the dealer for re program. I'll keep you guys updated.