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If i am planning to build a reliable daily driver with turbo kit..What should i favor when shopping for cars??

I am not looking to make 1000whp because once you get in that territory its just to much to be reliable daily driver IMO....
Im aiming 600ish hp...maybe low 700hp

I plan on taking the motor apart to put forged rods atleast in it.. not sure if 600ish is worth upgrading the stock pistons or not.. was thinking just new rings would be fine...

Should i get:

1) C5 Coupe Auto

2) C5 Coupe Manual (if i go this route need light clutch pedal due to knee)

3) C5 Z06

Reason i ask, is i was at corvette meet lastnight talking with some of the vette guys and all the turbo guys at the meet had base coupes with auto's... i talked to them and 1 of the guys said he sold his C5 Z06 for high mile C5 coupes and rebuilt the engine.. and put built auto in it.. and loves it over the Z06...

Any of them would work in my opinion. I would do a coipe with Manual trans but I am biased. If you do tear the engine down I would do both rods and pistons.

Btw I wouldnt do z06 because top doesn't come off. I almost had a Z but I am so glad I don't top off cruising is real nice.

X2 pistons and rods forged and polish stock crank and get it balanced

:iagree:
Although I would do an auto if you have a bad knee and are looking for a light clutch pedal, and still want a clutch that can hold that power. Might as well go auto. Its faster anyway:leaving: Just my 2 cents

But its so fun banging gears

Get the auto! I would just put a low boost turbo on it and leave it alone..it will be good stock to 700hp! build motor and trans as needed in future.

I'm more on the supercharger side I would just install a base kit on the stock car With under 10psi boost lots of fun!!

600-700 hp is enough power that you're likely to break some part of the drivetrain with a manual transmission. Automatics are less likely to break something. I would also recommend getting a trans/diff brace.

Buying built transmissions is big money pit. The 600hp range is a good one, because its fun as hell, you're still limited by traction mostly, and if you don't thrash the car, you shouldn't break too much stuff from the power.

I would put lower compression pistons while you're at it. Your engine is going to last longer and tune easier with 9.0:1 or 9.5:1 compression.

I personally love having a super fast convertible. And it lets you hear the engine roar and turbo better. BUT, if you ever take it to the track, you can't really take a convertible to the track. I like the look of putting a rollbar in a convertible,but not everyone likes the idea.

I would get an auto coupe.

This is a safer way to go.

You really think so man.. i didnt realize the bottom ends were that strong.. but what if its a high mile motor.. i find ALOT of 140k+ C5's in good condition for CHEAP..

I know how to rebuild transmission.. its not really a hard thing to do.. just need time, area, and a press if its one of those trannys that need things pressed to remove snap rings.. but i have successfully built many auto's in my driveway with no prior knowledge other than a book... When i rebuilt the auto tranny in my 2001 Dodge Diesel with Compound turbo's it lasted 88k miles before it slipped with over 1,000 wtq... and the performance rebuild kit with billet input shaft for it was only $400 bucks and another $500 for performance valve body.. suncoast wanted $6500 for the same build i did.. basicly..

Yes but the tune is the most important part. look at this car running a completely stock LS1 motor with a cam!http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...-16-148-a.html

Tuning is always IMHO the straw that breaks the camels back. You can have all the best internals and drive train components but a bad tune will or cheaping out will always doom you.

With that said you can't go wrong with the Manual or Auto. I think having a great clutch is one of the most underrated things to get. Having a great clutch can go a long way on your drivetrain.

:iagree: Tell him about your build and power on a stock motor I think stock is good for at least 700hp!

630RWHP on a stock motor daily driven. My goal was to make it safe and able to sit in traffic. The guys at A&A gave me a super safe tune, I didn't cheap out on anything, got a really nice clutch, and let them take their time building her. Let me say one thing, other than the cam, anyone could sit in the car and drive it and not think anything other than an exhaust was installed. The power is very predictable and smooth and if I need her to behave its not a problem. I have had a ton of high HP, FI cars and this is by far one of the best I have had. Feels like a factory car. I am also in love with my Centerforce DYAD. Its so easy to engage and drive that I know for a fact it will stop me from destroying my transmission. Just make sure you make a budget, do yor research on parts, and be prepared to spend another 5-6K over your budget :D

Plus you have all of us!

My mods are in my sig if you have any questions hit me up over PM I am always willing to answer questions and plug A&A's Superchargers :D

Hmm, i wander how long it will hold up to that much power...
Ill have to look into the cost of a built tranny from rpm...
also ill look into a built rear-end.. but i dont see how you could do anymore to the rear-end than to run z06 hardened parts... or am i wrong...

As long as I let it. I don't drive it like I stole it everyday. In fact it rarely goes above 3000RPM. It will get its paces when I go to track events. Just take care of it and it will last a long time.

Yes, i understand this.. but engines dont stay air tight with there tolerances for the life of the car just doing oil changes and such to it.. some.. yes are built better than others.. but the way they were driven prior to someone else purchasing can play alot on wether the stop bottom end will last 500hp or 900hp.. i was just reading about the guy with the cylinder 7 giving him problem on a stock engine with 500hp and then again with forged internals.

When i had my Audi, It had brand new fresh rings in it but otherwise stock engine when i bought it. I raced it at the track with proper maintenance and oil changes and such but within 2 years the rings were allowing alot of blow by and oil consumption.. this was on a STOCK engine with STOCK turbo system. This is what i mean by how long do these engines survive stock with boost applied..

There was a thread like how many miles on your boosted car .I was suppressed at some of them going just as long as non boosted cars but its all in the tune!

Thats an Audi though. The LSX is a completely different animal :D

I have never used hp tuners, but from what i have seen.. the majority of tunes are used through this. Is this a easy program to tune with? I do have tuning experience... but its mostly in regards to diesels but i am sure i could figure it out. I have friends that use megasquirt on there track cars and like the fact that its a shared database of files so others can use already prooven tunes for a baseline to go from.. is hptuners like this..??