TKO 500 woes
 

i put a TKO 500 in my 77 back in June, I put 1500 miles on it softly before I started being hard on it. it was always difficult to get into 1st gear. I now I have about 4k miles on it and its grinding, any quick tips before I pull it and send it back to keisler? it grinds when I shift it quickly into 3rd, 4th and when im downshifting to pass someone from 5th to 4th. I did the run out check with the bell housing and crank, it had .002 difference. I changed the fluid 4 times now, only using GM syncromesh fluid.

My vote is that something is not right with the trans....send it back. I had a TKO 500 behind a mild build 350 in my '71 SS/RS Camaro and I had no issues with the actual trans. My only slight issue was a little grind going into reverse, but that was due to the fit with the factory 4-speed center console that I was using.

I removed the rubber cushion for the clutch pedal and i only have about another 1" on the clutch rod adjustment

:iagree: Your clutch is not disengaging all the way.

If you switched to hydraulic clutch, try bleeding it. If you have the standard OEM clutch, try adjusting it. If you're out of adjustment, its not uncommon for GM clutch forks to bend....
That sucks that you're having problems:ack: we all know those kits aren't cheap!!!

Did you check your fork geometry for correct pivot stud and throwout bearing length? You should have plenty of travel and adjustment if done correctly.
Good article here:
http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/clutches_etc.htm

:iagree:

Yup, sure sounds like that is the problem.

do I just keep adjusting it out, what happens when the clutch is disengaged all the time

You should adjust the throw out bearing to have clearance to the pessure plate fingers.

I wanted faster engagement and disengagement with my clutch petal. So I drilled a hole about one inch lower on the "Z-Bar" Then attached the through the firewall rod to this lower position.

Mechanically it makes more movement of the throwout bearing when you push the pedal

thanks gkull, I will look into that

If it doesn't disengage when properly adjusted there is something wrong with the clutch.

Properly adjusted: About 1.5" of free play at the end of the pedal. Grab it with your hand and move it. You can feel how far it moves before it contacts the TO bearing.

they way it is set up now is that the first 1" of travel disengages the clutch, and the clutch pedal is about 2" above my brake pedal

Using the speed direct linkage,makes for a smoother clutch and greater range of adjustment.
[IMG]http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/a...i/100_1539.jpg[/IMG]

Check my post on the weak Z bar bracket:http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...ar-1980-a.html
Bracket was flexing causing all kinds of clutch troubles....

Makes sure the frame end of the z-bar is firmly retained in the frame bracket.

If your fork ball-stud is too short, the end of the fork hits the tunnel and limits the stroke.

Sure sounds like a clutch actuation problem, as others have said and not a tranny problem.

Since you changed from a auto to the manual you might want to check the entire unit. Pedals, frame mounting for the z bar and everything else that had to be replaced. You should still have my number (I bought the heads) if you need some help.

The only heads ive sold were a set of 1971 LS5 heads here locally of craigslist