:iagree:

Obviously had no idea of what he was doing if he was waiting 3 min each time for the resistor in the key to time out :crazy2:

I didn't see anyone (maybe I missed it) that suggested checking the VATS harness in the column. You do this by inserting the key and measuring the resistance on the VATS harness connector at the bottom of the column. See post #4 to see what the harness looks like.

If you measure the resistance of the key pellet resistor you're OK. If you measure open (usually "OL") then the harness wiring is broken or the contacts in the ignition switch are dirty/bad.

Thank you all for your help.
"Hooked on vettes", I did your test. I connected jumped A-G on the CCM, it worked exactly how you said with the various codes and prompts. in the end it came up 06 203 which you said the values for #14 were 199-204.
I assume at this point i verified that my key was #14 and I don't have a wiring problem in my steering column.
I called the locksmith back and told him that i was going to try unplugging the connection at the bottom of the steering column and use resistors. He stated that his machine was the various resistors and i could borrow it for a night that way i could wait as long as needed between trys when i mentions that some were feeling it required 5 min rather than the 2 min. Just have to lay upside down to get it connected....
BTW, i have to admit you guys on this forum are amazing with your electronics knowledge, where did your learn all the various codes and diagnostics tricks? I am use to replacing 5 parts before finding the fix. Thank you all!!

Maybe just a reset of the alarm and do it all from scratch first thing. The key seemed to pass the CCM check so reset the theft system I believe on a '93 you open the drivers door with the passenger closed, depress the lock button and the security light should come on solid I believe, close the door the security light I believe should go off.

Sit down, insert key, depress clutch and start the car! Simple as that and drive off!

And if tapping your head and rubbing your belly doesn't fix it, you now know the real solution.

That's nice of the guy to lend you his resistor box.

When you test each resistor value if it fails (Security light stays on) run the
diagnostic and verify the xxx value corresponds to what the chart shows.
This will tell you the resistor was read correctly and not out of tolerance
but is not the resistance value the CCM is looking for.

Remove the key and wait 5 minutes and try a different key code.

Here's a table showing the different xxx values.
You already know it's not Key code 1 or 14.

Key code #1 should be 033-038
#2 042-047
#3 052-058
#4 064-070
#5 076-083
#6 091-098
#7 106-113
#8 121-128
#9 136-143
#10 149-156
#11 164-170
#12 177-183
#13 188-194
#14 199-204
#15 208-213

Your profile does not indicate where you are located, if by chance you are in southeast Florida send me a PM, I have a GM VATS Interrogator you can borrow.

That is good news. simply plug the interrogator into the harness side of the lock cylinder wires. Two small thin wires, disconnect it and plug into the end towards the front of the car. Select #1 try to start the car in the normal fashion, let it time out if it does not start and go to the next one and so on. After it starts note the selector # and get that key from the dealer, have it cut for your car and your good to go. #5 may be the lucky one, just a guess.:cheers:

The car alarm went off soon as the guy started testing. He unplugged the horn, does this affect the circuit which would make it impossible to get a code, does this have to be plugged in?
I am located in Denver Colorado, thanks for the offer toptechx6 FL.

The factory alarm can be armed by the Key fob or if you lock the doors with the power door lock switch and then close both doors. You can reset the alarm by using the power door lock switch again before you close the door which will cancel the alarm.

An indication the alarm is set is the Security light is on Solid when
the door is open. When you close the door the Security light goes off. This is not the same as when you insert the key, turn the
ignition On and the Security light is on solid.

You can reset the alarm by using the door key and rotate the key to to lock and unlock.

You can also reset it by inserting the ignition key and I think you need to turn the ignition On. Since you don't have the proper key pellet resistance that may not work.

The alarm does not affect the key reading by the CCM.
All the alarm does is pulse the horn. The alarm is only triggered
by the two door ajar switches or the hatch ajar switch.

I, too, am totally amazed at the collective knowledge on the forum. You guys rock.

In reference to the PCM there are two check boxes in the ECM switch table. Mine happens to have the first not checked "VATS Diagnostic (Error 46).

The second is checked. "VATS Select x=enabled".

MrWillys, what does checking or unchecking do in this case?

My Corvette only has 39,000 miles but my 93 FBody has 140,000 and the resistors in at least one of my three keys I believe is getting spotty as sometimes the key will rotate the lock cylinder and it will not start, in fact everything is totally silent, so I suspect the VATS is at play.

BTW, I suspect it might be a blue moon over Arizona before your son takes off in the Corvette with the only key again,ken93Vette.

Personally, when I program a No VATS file I uncheck both boxes. I have read other memcals from other programmers who only turn off the X=enabled. By doing this the ecm doesn't look for the resistance value, and allows the vehicle to start. However, if there's a fault in the VATS module (or whatever you want to call it), or the starter enable relay it is possible to shut down the starter. In this case you simply ground the signal from the VATS module at the relay, or bypass it altogether.

In the OP's case: You would simply uncheck the X=enabled box, and reprogram the memcal and the vehicle will start. If he has a custom tune do to engine modifications he should just ask the tuner to do this and problem solved.

Here's a pic of the switches table for a 92 BDBK / Auto file for clarity.
http://www.scotthansen.net/images/bdbk.jpg

Whoa Nellie! VATs cable sheath coming down from the ignition key cylinder is Orange! Yellow is used for the Air Bag connector!

yes, you are correct, my error.

THANK YOU to all for your advice. GOT IT KEY #15 !!
I knew 14 didn't work, so did 13, 12, then 15. Was shocked as hell when i noticed security light didn't show up, turn key an started first crank.
One of those experience i learned a lot but could have done without.
Cheers to everyone celebrating this 4th!!

That's good! Did you ever go back to the dealer and confirm what was actually sent by GM for the "key request"? Did they just miss the chart when converting or was it actually the wrong code transmitted to them. I'd be wanting to know. Certainly at the price point you paid!

If it was misinterpreted on the chart by the dealer then I'd say a couple correct keys should "BE ON THEM"!!!

The reason I ask is if they/GM are purging old data bases to make the VATS available for these requests now it would be important to know the reliability of the data base. It wasn't available for years, you and another documented that it was transmitted from GM to the dealer. It could be interesting information to keep in mind.