rebuilding the LS1?
 

update: Finally tore into the motor enough to find the problem. Busted lifter, pulled the cam and one lob is very much toast. Hopefully get the motor to the shop in the next month or 2 and get it in line for the rebuild. I plan on a bigger cam this time, as it will no longer be my daily driverMy motor is toast, fixing to pull it and not sure if I a going to rebuild it my self or let the good folks at englandgreen do it. How hard is it, how risky is it as a DIY ? Just looking at all my options.
:cheers:

Let me postulate that if you have to ask this question then you are likely not familiar enough with this engine design to do it yourself. If you were talking about a C2 or C3 then I would say go for it but not an LS1.

I am thinking that this might be really good advice, Its been 30 since I helped rebuild a motor.

either buy a used engine with good compression or let a shop that specializes in the LSx motors do it.

too many places mistakes can be made

it was one thing with gen1 when things were more or less the same since the 60s. these engines are different. everything from the final hone to how bearings are setup are specific to this engine

I found a used engine, with warranty , 46000 miles
$3495.00 (Grade A Used Engine) 3 Year Parts and labor warranty included
place called soutwest engines, free shipping.

If you were more comfortable and experienced, there's a guy on YouTube who goes start to finish on an LS1 rebuild and how to do it. I'd honestly just let a shop handle it if you're looking for more than stock power since you haven't done it before.

I found a ls6 w/35k on it for 3k at Thompson motorsports,check them out for a new one and use some parts off the old one. It all depends on how big a hurry your in,if not be patient and you can find a good deal. Then check with Stephen & Jason and see who they would use to re-build and at what cost. My ls1 is sitting at Franks Vettes w/ 135k on it,it ran strong before having a lifter turn and took out the cam. If your in a hurry,all this needs is a cam and lifters. You need your oil pan and intake,England Green is familiar with my engine and they can tell you I don't dog my car. It can be yours reasonably cheap,I've been saving it for my '55 Ford pickup but I'll let it go for fellow EG person :thumbs:. L8R ZFLASH

I disagree with that..with anything if you take your time and pay attention with what goes where..the ls1 is really a simple push rod v8 motor...there are plenty of how to's and books one can buy plus not to mention the forum...and who know's along the way you might learn a few new hidden talents along the way..

I watched my brother who has never installed a cam on anything with very little knowledge install a cam in his 2002 Camaro Z28 with the LS1....not only did he do it right, the car runs amazingly well with zero issues..he took his time and he pay attention to what went were...

Connects easily...
 

Crate engine is the way to go. New and full warranty.

what will get someone is the cost of assembly tools. dial indicator, bore gauge, what grit to use on the hone so the rings seat properly. all that comes into play. if you bought an assembled short block i agree that someone with moderate shop skills could do the rest of the assembly

short block machine work and assembly is not a beginner task

that used ls6 for 3000 sounds like it could be a great deal. one thing i'll share that i learned with used engines is this. mileage is only sort of important. it's worth looking at but that's about it. years ago when i did the autocross hondas we would import the japanese type r engines. most the donor cars had 30,000 to 50,000 miles. having received 3 let me tell you. BIG difference between them. the engines should have 250-260lbs of compression. the bad one was down at 220lbs and burned a quart every 1000 miles. other two were within spec but it goes to show mileage NEVER trumps a leakdown test when buying used. i have personally seen grandpa driven engines with 100k have nearly the exact same cylinder leakdown as a brand new engine. get a guy who lives in a rural area and drives 100 miles at a shot, never revs it. you have almost no wear. at the same time engines that go straight to the track don't live long. for example a porsche GT3 engine which is assembled with higher end parts that our LS engines has a service life on the track of roughly 300 hours. that same engine if driven normally could probably make it 300,000 miles of road driving. not that anyone would drive a GT3 300k miles but you get the point.

even in normal driving there's not a huge difference between a 30k mile city driven motor that drives 20 miles per day or a 90,000 mile rural motor that drives 60 miles per day. almost all your wear is at start up and when the oil is cold.

If you were going to buy a new motor I'd try to find you an ls6 out of a z06 wether it be from an 01 or 02-04. It's an easy swap in and you have a nicer cam/heads.

I'm doing my own L33, (Alum 5.3) essentially a baby LS1 with LS6 heads.

There is nothing really magical about it. I'm likely going to replace the rods and pistons for boost. This eliminates the issues with resizing cracked cap rods. Although I might just put it back together as is, everything looked quite good inside for 136K miles.
That's the only thing I see unconventional about the LS.

It's a neat design,

Ron

Thanks, I am in no hurry, I am hoping mine will not be to damaged, I will see after I pull it. I responded to the guy at Southwest motors that 46K was too many miles for me but thanks, he replies back " OK moron" Now I would buy a bolt from that azzclown, what kind of way is that to do business? I for sure looking at letting engalnd hook me up, just not sure what yet.

My current motor has 435 RWHP , I want to at least be there, if not a tad more....

Either way when you pull the motor you will need to have a MACHINE shop do the machining work to deck the top, punch out the piston holes etc. etc. - then there is the head work too...

It can be done and "IF" you are familiar with all the clearances then do it and if you have the proper tools to do everything and set the clearances then I say do it!

BUT if you do not have everything then your best bet is to hand it over to the fella's who do this for a living! :yesnod:

Keep us posted either way!

I did a write-up on how to remove the Motor from the top of the Vette in your own garage! :D with plenty of pictures too!

Thanks,Matt

Can any LS motor just be dropped into a c5? ans which is the best LS motor for every day normal street driving?

Yea posted in a thread you posted in and you sent me the link, great write up! I have made up my mind I will pull it and put it back in but I am not going to try to rebuild, I will leave that to ENGLANDGREEN, :thumbs::cheers:

LS motors are super easy to work on. Way easier then SBC and BBC motors.

I have the machine shop do the machine work and install the rotating assembly.

I then do the rest of the assembly myself.

btw that's how I do SBC and BBC motors too.

I just started the LS7 in my 69 Camaro for the 1st time

Hooker ProComp Headers.

LS7 Converted to Wet Sump .005 over 431 CI. LS7 Heads with a little work. Diamond Forged Pistons. TSP LS7S Camshaft 242/250 .650"/.650" 114+3

i did some research on this company after the azzclown called me a moron, seems they have many unhappy customers, he did me a favor.
Southwest Engines , do not use them!
below is the holes reply


ok moron

Thank You,
Parts Department - ext.3
_________________________
Tel. 866-319-1058

Smart Move, I dont let anyone else touch my car, Well Except me, and not that there are not plenty of great shops out there, I just prefer EG doing my work, They know just about every bolt on my car and even though I have relocated to Mississippi from Houston, I will flatbed my car back when the time comes to do major work.
Keep us posted on what you get done :cheers: