Originally Posted by EuroRod
(Post 1583127793)
IMHO, anything over 600 rwhp on the street is a waste of money. My ProCharged C6 makes 550 on a conservative tume. I could push 600+ if I wanted, BUT, even with 305 Invo's, traction is non-existent in 1st and 2nd gears. On cool days, 3rd gear can also be an adventure. I've had my car try to spin me at 80 mph with massive wheel spin on a day with cool tires and cool pavement. I guess the big hp guys are running around town on drag radials with 10 psi in them. Thats nutz.
I realize that some guys carry a laminated dyno printout in their car and say, look at this! But, unless you are a racer, save your money. I don't run 10psi, actually around 20-25psi. I really liked all my vehicles when they hit the 600 mark. It seems to be a sweet spot in our cars. On low boost I'm in the 7xx rwhp range and it's incredible. When I turn it up I feel like I'm entering warp speed. Once each level becomes "slow" to you then you can step it up. I don't suggest going straight to 1k from stock unless you've been there before. |
Originally Posted by Drewstein
(Post 1583130094)
Lol 305 invos. Try on some real shoes and you'll see why more is better. I run 345 05rs out back and it's a much better package for traction than my 345 invos were.
I don't run 10psi, actually around 20-25psi. I really liked all my vehicles when they hit the 600 mark. It seems to be a sweet spot in our cars. On low boost I'm in the 7xx rwhp range and it's incredible. When I turn it up I feel like I'm entering warp speed. Once each level becomes "slow" to you then you can step it up. I don't suggest going straight to 1k from stock unless you've been there before. Exactly and building the entire car with the end power goal in mid saves a lot of dollars and headaches |
All of it :rock:
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My car was fun at 700 rwhp and lots more fun at just over 1000 rwhp.
Yes, you can get traction at this power level. If your car isn't getting traction at 600hp then you aren't running the right tire ;) |
For me it's always a couple hundred more than I currently have, there's no such thing as too much HP...
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Originally Posted by Detoxx03
(Post 1583130227)
All of it :rock:
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Originally Posted by Seadawg
(Post 1583127419)
Whatever you end up with, I highly recommend that you have a reputable tuner set up your car, because (especially with the Z06 LS7), there are several horror stories out here. It seems to be far less forgiving to engine mods than the LS3.
I would search the forums and read up on them, so that you can discuss (and resolve) your concerns with your builder/tuner. To your question, from what I've seen over the years of the C6Z06 production, 550 - 600 rwhp is the accepted practical "reliable" limit for power levels out of a STREET driven vette drive train. And at that power range, you will have traction issues, especially when you turn the nannies off. You should be spinning pretty easily already if you put yours in competition mode. When you get above the 600 rwhp range, or do a lot of drag racing, you had better be seriously considering stronger clutches, half shafts, different engine internals, trans/diff upgrades, etc. |
How much does one need?
Always a little more then they have now... |
Originally Posted by DOUG @ ECS
(Post 1583128189)
Some guys will say 500 is too much, other will say 1000 is just getting in the ball park, only YOU can answer that question, but if your asking it you will probably be fine in the 550-600 range. :thumbs:
For now... |
Originally Posted by C6 CYAA
(Post 1583132348)
:iagree:
For now... |
Thanks for all the comments, what I'm learning is
- choose parts that will work with higher levels - later on - 550 to 600 is a good initial goal - include drag radials - think about a clutch and half shafts while the car is apart anyway I'm still thinking ttix so I can have what I want know and keep options open for more later (understanding that I will need to change block or at least forge if I ever want to turn it up) |
Originally Posted by Ensoniq
(Post 1583132537)
Thanks for all the comments, what I'm learning is
- choose parts that will work with higher levels - later on - 550 to 600 is a good initial goal - include drag radials - think about a clutch and half shafts while the car is apart anyway I'm still thinking ttix so I can have what I want know and keep options open for more later (understanding that I will need to change block or at least forge if I ever want to turn it up) Clutch, preferably a twin disk is essential as well as a solid fuel system - even though your initial goals can run on a boost-a-pump you might as well do an A1000 or twin walbro 350s to handle present and future goals, all you would need to do is swap injectors. Both of these done together would save you time and labor charges. Tires depend on the cars purpose. Initially I said my car would see a lot of road courses but i had a lot of cooling system issues that prevented me from ever going crazy. I had toyo r888s all around and changed the rear down to an 18in. This let me roll into second even at 750rwhp I now see that I prefer playing on the highway and drag strip so i will be using MT 345/35/18 on my next build, they should still take turns but not the 1.3Gs I was seeing on the toyos Most of all find a tuner, not a tooner to build your car right the first time. Please let me know if you have any questions about modding a corvette I have done a lot of work myself and with various shops on the forum so i think I can give good insight and advice |
Originally Posted by Ensoniq
(Post 1583132537)
Thanks for all the comments, what I'm learning is
- choose parts that will work with higher levels - later on - 550 to 600 is a good initial goal - include drag radials - think about a clutch and half shafts while the car is apart anyway I'm still thinking ttix so I can have what I want know and keep options open for more later (understanding that I will need to change block or at least forge if I ever want to turn it up) Later on when you decide to forge the motor and build out everything else like fuel & drivetrain, you would enjoy being able to turn the kit down every once and a while. I usually only turn it up for real challenges where my blower cars were always full kill mode. |
Originally Posted by SinisterC6
(Post 1583132827)
If I could have done it again I would have gone with TTI over my ECS setup. The same system is just as comfortable making 500hp as it is making 1000hp, plus being turbo allows you boost by gear for more traction.
Clutch, preferably a twin disk is essential as well as a solid fuel system - even though your initial goals can run on a boost-a-pump you might as well do an A1000 or twin walbro 350s to handle present and future goals, all you would need to do is swap injectors. Both of these done together would save you time and labor charges. Tires depend on the cars purpose. Initially I said my car would see a lot of road courses but i had a lot of cooling system issues that prevented me from ever going crazy. I had toyo r888s all around and changed the rear down to an 18in. This let me roll into second even at 750rwhp I now see that I prefer playing on the highway and drag strip so i will be using MT 345/35/18 on my next build, they should still take turns but not the 1.3Gs I was seeing on the toyos Most of all find a tuner, not a tooner to build your car right the first time. Please let me know if you have any questions about modding a corvette I have done a lot of work myself and with various shops on the forum so i think I can give good insight and advice |
Originally Posted by Ensoniq
(Post 1583132997)
Thanks so much for this offer, particularly the tuner comment. I'm near Raleigh NC but have been thinking about driving South to Vengence or north to ECS and leaving the car for the build. It's still early days, I haven't even called George yet, still planning mode.
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