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Gobygred 01-19-2013 11:02 AM

Changing Brake lines
 
I am changing over to stainless braided brake lines. If I drain all brake fluid, are there concerns about effectively fully refilling and bleeding the system? Will I get air pockets in the system that are tough to bleed out?

I am a newbie. Thank you.

kimmer 01-19-2013 11:51 AM

Just do a gravity bleed when your finished, you will not have any problems.

Frizlefrak 01-19-2013 11:59 AM

Or go to Harbor Freight and buy a power bleeder. Hook it to your compressor and it sucks fluid through the lines. They are about $35. I used it on my 1970 Mach 1....went from empty system to hard pedal in 30 minutes, solo.

Frizlefrak 01-19-2013 12:00 PM

I stand corrected....$25

Brake Bleeder

Gobygred 01-19-2013 12:07 PM

I'll try gravity first. I have plenty of time in the winter. Thanks for the help!!!

Aaron Keating 01-19-2013 03:46 PM


Originally Posted by Gobygred (Post 1582883136)
I am changing over to stainless braided brake lines. If I drain all brake fluid, are there concerns about effectively fully refilling and bleeding the system? Will I get air pockets in the system that are tough to bleed out?

I am a newbie. Thank you.

Gravity bleeding will work well here.
A power bleeder is awesome though and much more time efficient it's worth the little bit of cash. Especially for future brake projects. The 20 to 25 dollars you spend saves you alot of time, and you don't even need any helpers to bleed the system out!

overdrawn 01-19-2013 04:19 PM


Originally Posted by Frizlefrak (Post 1582883657)
I stand corrected....$25

Brake Bleeder

:iagree:

Gobygred 01-19-2013 08:02 PM

Looks like the way to go! Thanks do much!

Gobygred 01-19-2013 08:03 PM

Thank you!!!

Cliff Harris 01-20-2013 11:54 PM

I don't remember the exact circumstances, but I had air in my brake system and the vacuum thingy wouldn't pull any brake fluid.

I have use a "one man brake bleeder" for many years. It's just a check valve on the end of a plastic tube. Speed Bleeders are the same thing. They just replace the bleeder screw with a check valve. Since you've got the system apart you might as well go this route.

Normally you don't drain all the old fluid out. The traditional method is to fill the master cylinder reservoir with fresh fluid and pump the brake pedal until all the old fluid is displaced. I open the bleeder screw and pump the brake pedal until the master cylinder reservoir gets almost empty before adding new fluid. It's pretty easy to tell when you've got the old fluid out as the old fluid will be dark and the new fluid will be clear. Obviously you need clear plastic tubing to see what's happening when you do it this way.

Gobygred 01-21-2013 05:15 AM

Thanks for the wisdom. My concern was just what you experienced in the past.

I think I have a plan now. First time work on brakes makes me a bit nervous- pretty important to have effective brakes plus I don't want nasty brake fluid all over my dream car!

WVZR-1 01-21-2013 07:36 AM

Buy your wife a "NEW" turkey baster and use her old one to remove the old fluid OR if you have access to a medical supply store in the area a 2OZ syringe used for feeding tubes is less than $3, can be cleaned and easily stored. The last is a much better solution I think!

A BD 309620 is the reference number all use:

http://www.cardinalhealth.com/us/en/...B/BF309620.jpg


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