i know its alittle late.but do you have the cam card.some cams are ground at 0 and some + or - .my cam was made with 2 derees + built in set up at zero.hard to explain.thats why they make adjustable timing chains.i perfer the cam be built to spec.so if the cam bolts loosen timing isnt sacraficed.ijs.+ if the cam was made for 0 and it needs advanced all the exhaust valves will hit.

Wheee thought the camera man was going to take his shoes off to help calculate the CLR.

I got cam timing down, I actually used to sell the lifter tool the guy was using back when I worked at Power House Products back in 91-92.

The guy that had installed the cam has done plenty, what caught him off guard was the LS# being a dry sump, the snout being longer and the bolt being longer, the aftermarket balancer and ARP bolt didn't fit nor did his balancer installer tool so he had to use the longest bolt he had, my stocker. The cam seems to have been installed straight up, which is really the only way it could be done with factory parts unless he wanted to get out a drill and bushing kit. Even if the cam was retarded or advanced a few degrees I would hate to think it would be lacking the HP it seems to be lacking, every other motor I have played with has really just moved the power band 250 or so rpm up and down for every two degrees the cam moved.

When are you getting the cam doctor results back in. I don't doubt the competence of your mechanic, I doubt the grind.

I would have hoped to hear by now, guess I'll send them an email in the am, they are doing it as a favor (here I go with favors again) so I can't really rush them but Tuesday will be a week that they have had it.

Yeah reading the cam install page it looks like a daunting task, if you go slow it all basically unfolds before your eyes. The balancer part sucks and all the added GS stuff like the fact you have to discharge the AC to get the condensor out sucks, but nothing is a killer. I bought some metric threaded rod so I can make a balancer install tool and not have to worry about killing my new balancer bolt, rest of the parts are here, Meziere pump is sweet, we are WD's and the thing still cost me over $600, but it should make up for the UD pulley HP loss, in reality there is no reason it shouldn't make good power, my ebay girl is a stick shift hot shoe and weighs in around 100lbs, maybe the old IO GS will snap up 2nd place when you take the title :), yeah I doubt it too :) .

Why not add an underdrive pulley while it's apart John?

And why do you have to remove the condenser on a grand sport? I left mine in the car and just held it up and out of the way when the cam had to come out. Here is a pic right before I pulled it. Balancer and steering rack were the main pieces left but you get the idea.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a46...11014-1154.jpg

The condensor must be different on the new models or GS as it has a barb for the bottom line that won't let the radiator lift out of the way and be removed on it's own. We looked at it, I gave it the muscle and then we gave up, two 13mm bolts, and it was outta there.

Never been a big fan of the UD pulleys, had some trouble back in the Stang days with alternators, I do so much city driving I would rather go with the WP, on my 05 Mustang GT it was worth 8 rwhp, swapped it on the dyno in 20 minutes.

Interesting, I wonder why the design change.

I daily drive mine(as you know) and even with my baby motorcycle battery and letting the car sit for well over a week at times, I have had 0 issues with the alternator charging, a/c blowing cold, or the battery being dead. Even at the track when I make 6-10 passes in a short few hour stretch, the battery does fine. I made 4 back to back passes at PBIR and had no issues. This battery works great.

Cam is ground wrong
 

Got the report back, haven't had the chance to really analyze
yet but it is ground wrong, both intake and exhaust.....

More results when I get caught up.

Scan and post that cam doctor report when you can John

How wrong?

A degree or two either way is not uncommon.

Ya, I'm really curious to see how it stacks up against my requested vs. actual cam specs.

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/7354/camcard.jpg

Well after getting some time to look it over the cam is ground off but not 70 hp off, some of the timing events are different (some up to 6 degrees) and the advance is missing but the lift is there. Time to call Comp (got my buddy's buddy direct line) to see what we can come up with, at this point I am not sure what I am going to do one part of me wants to continue the fight, the other says stick a ZR1 cam in it and hang a blower on it in 6 months or so...

zr1 cam is full of compromises, most notably, emissions. You can get a lot more power out of your engine with a cam not limited by emissions factors.

I'd have Comp make me a new cam with the proper specs and I'd doctor it to make sure before I put it in and degree it after it's in.

Everybody has great results with that cam, look at Justin's car, IMHO, you guys have the same cam?

I'd personally also pull that pump off and make sure that timing gear set is proper. I'd probably buy a new one at this point even if it looks to be properly installed, perhaps has it's keyway ground incorrectly or something silly.

6 degrees off shouldn't have caused you to have zero dyno gain so IMHO something is up and that timing set sounds like the most likely culprit to me.

John and I's came are similar but different. The Spin cam is ground on different lobes than the EPS cam and mine has 4* more exhaust duration. I also don't know what the LSA and ground in advance are for the Spin cam. Mine is on a 113+2

I think Theofel has the Spin cam...and if my memory serves, the first one he got was ground incorrectly too? I'll ask him to chime in.

I believe you're correct. He had the G6X3 to start maybe? And then switched it out for the Spin cam?

Looking at the OP, the LSA is 114+2 so close to mine but it's still ground on different lobes.

Theofel has this same cam, like Justin said it's close to his but favors the intake. The reason I mentioned the ZR1 cam is it's a factory piece, stick it in and be done, a lot of work to go through to get that result though. Still waiting to hear back from Comp.

Funny thing is I am dealing with an audio amplifier that is in the vette and has worked as well as the cam, it has been back for repair and still is messed up, getting ready to pull it out and ship it in the AM, the joys of modding stuff.

Audio items and our Canbus system are not on good speaking terms.

My Lockpick (adapter that allows me to play my iPhone over my car's stereo) went on the fritz after three years, had to buy a new harness for it now it's fine.

My lock pick combined with a Garmin bluetooth a2dp adapter that plugs into the cig lighter have my 05 working like my wife's Honda when it comes to wirelessly streaming music. Not so much for making phone calls.

I sure wouldn't put a factory cam in. Don't forget the ls9 heads are different too. I think if you get a proper cam you'll be running in the 10's like the other ls3's are in some good weather with drag radials.:thumbs:

As a data point, I had Spin's 230/2334 114+2 can in my LS2 and made 485/440 with all the bolt ons. Torque hit 400 at 3200 rpm and carried all the way out past 6200 rpm. Advanced Induction did the cam doctor for me and sent it back twice before it passed Phil's personal QC.

Here's the Cam Doctor report of the cam that went in the car. Use it to compare to yours:

http://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/...mprofile-1.jpg