If you are addressing me, the issue didn't have anything to do with what runs best, how hot it gets, how cold it gets, whether it's Rochester FI or a carb, gas milage or other related things that obviously went right over your head while you were trying to get your foot in the door on this thread.



Go back and read posts #17, 18 and 19 again and maybe you'll figure it out.

My last post on this subject.:leaving:

remove the fuel meter top cover, flat sand it on a piece of window glass using 320 wet or dry paper. when you get it flat, then tighten it back on in a star pattern (like wheel lugs). Had same problem in a '63 many years ago, this solved the vacuum leak.

Geratol........ Yep!

rustylugnuts :lurk:

Gas
 

It is a bit scary to see how much info and opinion surrounds Rochester FI systems. My unit is at DeGregory's for refurbishing. In taking it off of the engine I was surprised to find that I had to remove the FI unit to get the valve covers (cast aluminum) off since the FI legs overlap. Seems like a design flaw. If you want to set the valve lash, you have to remove the FI!
Anticipating getting my FI unit back, I'll need new gaskets. Who makes/sells good ones? The lowest level gaskets on my engine are a sexy blue.

This is the golden age of Rochester FI.

More is known about these units now than at any other in their existence. Also, the reproduction and replacement parts currently available are far higher quality than what GM used to produce.

.

John is a good man. He'll take very good care of your FI unit.

True and not true. If the bottom of the piezometer ring and of the venturi cone ring are ground flat, it becomes possible to remove the driver's side valve cover.

Jim

On the fuelie. Did the factory recommend setting lash while running, like the carbed solid lifter motors?

tis a shame that it is no longer the golden age of gasoline.....

at the most all you would have to do is to remove the air meter from the plenum: 4 nuts.

my memory is now fuzzy, but you might only have to remove the piezometer ring
Bill

...........just remove the ring, not the whole unit, don't 'GRIND' any thing

..........I set mine cold

Just to be clear, I don't advocate grinding off the bottom of the ring. It was, however, a common modification back in the day. It is a way to get valve cover clearance.

I'm not entirely sure I'd even recommend a do-it-ur-selfer remove the piezometer ring. I've just seen too many creative ways an FI unit can be screwed up by well-meaning but inexperienced tinkerers.

Jim

pull the whole air meter then... :)
Bill

Yes. Same engine, same cam, same procedure in the Shop Manual. :thumbs:

Ethanol effects
 

Ethanol will dissolve the resin in fiberglass tanks and the galvanizing in standard fuel tanks! That is why they they do not sell it for aircraft or marine use. In addition, ethanol evaporates at 173 degrees, which is why it is NOT recommended for the Rochester Fuel Injected engines. You can buy 100% gasoline at various outlets: http://www.pure-gas.org

Excellent!

hmmmm..... I see no new information or questions; is there a reason this thread was resurrected?
Bill

Well here's a question that a quick read provided no answer to...Where can I get new parts for my '63 fuel injection? Are the injectors still available anywhere?

By "injectors" I assume you mean nozzles. What makes you think you need new ones? Originals don't go bad.

Jim

True-not much to ware out. I had my nozzles out and cleaned them-some mighty small innards there! My original manual suggests changing them if one is plugged--I get that was the old days but would be nice to have a source if one existed.
This is my first meeting with a fuelie so I'm thankful for any help and advice you can offer. I've replaced the drive shaft and got the wobble pump working after is sat for 20+ years; then checked the flow through the spider connection, bolted it back on and fired it up.
The car starts ok, sometimes better than others, idles pretty dependably, and runs well enough to drive. The problem is when I jump on the throttle. Hesitation and jumpy is the best description I an offer.
If that suggests a reparable problem or a place to start, I'd love to hear your comments.
Plugs, points and wires are all new but I haven't touched the timing.
Thanks--Steve

The shop manuals do a pretty good job of describing FI repair, given the body of knowledge available back in the day. They don't reflect modern thinking based on 50+ years of experience, though.

Unless Bubba has had his incompetent hands on a set of nozzles, all they ever need is disassembly and cleaning. (I use an ultrasonic cleaner to sanitize the metering orifice discs and the screens.) The worst thing which tends to happen is the nozzle top splits where the tube ferrule seals. Replacement nozzle tops are readily available and inexpensive.

So your FI unit has a wobble pump? Must be an early '63. Wobble pumps were short lived and aren't nearly as robust or as simple as the gear pumps which preceeded and succeeded them.

The hesitation you note could be due to the unit being mis-adjusted, from the diaphragms being old and stiff (especially if they are 20+ years old), ignition problems, clogged fuel passages..... any number of things. Without seeing the unit, I'd just be guessing to diagnose it from long distance.

The bottom line and your take-away is that your FI unit can be made to perform as new.:thumbs:

Jim

IIRC, one of the nozzles in my spare set is missing a screen.... :willy:
Bill

A fellow brought his '57 fuelie to me with the complaint that the engine had a miss and got really poor fuel economy.

After determining which cylinder wasn't firing, and ruling out ignition, I pulled the nozzle..... the metering orifice disc was gone!

Did I mention his fuel economy was poor?:ack::rofl: