1963 Fuel injection woes
 

Thanks all for your suggestions on my SWC fuel injection problem. To recap, a barn car of sorts that barely ran... Timing is now correct, but I still can't get it to idle once the thermostatic choke comes off the cam. It just dies quietly. While the choke is still on the cam idle is 2200rpm.

I have set the idle mix and idle speed to the suggested values and adjusted up and down with no apparent effect. I think I have all of the open ports plugged.

Any ideas?

If it won't idle, there is no way to properly adjust the idle fuel and idle speed controls. It's a chicken and egg problem. But let's back up from the idling problem and look at a larger picture:

How long has the car been sitting? When was the FI unit last rebuilt? What was replaced? Who did the work? And most important, has the unit ever worked properly since being rebuilt?

Jim

idle
 

Check the Vacuum can at distributor. The stock ones dont like to idle on the SHP cars. Get a generic B28 from NAPA or check the unit with a vac guage. Duke williams has written alot about it on this forum, try searching it? It worked for my 340 hp car.

Boyan

The car had been sitting for about 10 years when I bought it last fall. I took the gas tank out and purged all of the gook from the fuel lines. I replaced the fuel filter, plugs, plug wires other consumables. I don't think the FI unit has been rebuilt. I have resigned myself to having it rebuilt. I'll try Boyan's suggestion of a new vacuum can.

Thanks for the tip!

1963 fuel injection cars do not have any vacuum advance at idle speed. They operate off venturi vacuum.

Mike's observation is spot on.... '63 FI units supply ported vacuum only to the VAC and this means there is NO vacuum advance at idle. So, changing VACs won't solve anything.

If the unit has truly never been rebuilt, then a non-idle condition could be anything..... an inflexible main diaphragm, sticking spill valve, a failed cranking signal valve, and on and on..... None of these are fixable by do-it-ur-selfers.

A rebuild by a competent, honest rebuilder will address all these potential issues, and more.

Jim

:iagree:That's the one that I would check first....followed by ALL of the other diaphrams for cracks.

My mistake...........I was just referenceing a similar problem with my 340 hp car that did not want to idle. Obviously, I need to brush up on my FI stuff....

Thanks for correcting me,
Boyan

Gene,

Jim is one of the best fuel injection restorers. Take his advice and save yourself time and money.

You can eliminate the cranking signal valve by starting the engine, then pinching off the vacuum hose leading to it. If the engine continues to run, you've likely found at least one of the problems.

I finally got a chance to try pinching the cranking signal line, and the rubber hose is rock hard and un-pinchable. I took a slew of photos and will post them once I figure out how to do it.

Since I will likely have this thing re-built , the next question is, where are the experts? Jerry Bramlett is in Mobile. Where is Jim Lockwood? I live north of Philadelphia.

John Degregory is located in Greenberg, PA. He is one of the best FI guys.

724 832 3786

replace the hose and try the 'pinch' thing. the hose is only standard vacuum hose available at any parts place by the inch/foot.
Bill

I live in northern California. PM sent.

Jim

Totally agree. I would give him first consideration.

I recommend Williams Repair, Sidney, Ohio, Cell 937 726-7914. He does all the fuel injection repairs for the Corvette Dealers etc. in Ohio.

Hi Allen aka Gene jockey, The old fuel injection units don't last forever you know. You said you have a barn find car. Hopefully the critters didn't build a nest inside you air meter and plenum. Man do they do the damage.
If your rubber hose is hard a rock one might expect all the rubber on the entire FI is in the same state.
Diaphragms: Rarely do you see them cracked. But you sure do see them aged. You are taking a chance running this engine you know. You could easily hydraulic lock the engine and then goodbye some rods or the entire block.
Got your call yesterday. Will return it after Panera Bread breakfast.
I live near about 5 hrs from you.
Meanwhile don't know where all the 63 Fi's are coming from. Sure I love to do them as I have had my 63 FI coupe since late 70's. Known as the Little White Car (LWC) I put this in there for the Michael dude looking in here from IN.
Anyhow I have probably restored more 63 Fi's than any other year. Reason being is that Rochester Products made at least 3000 of them.
In 1975 old Jon Blanchette said the production qty was 3022 with 91 service units. On my notes I crossed that number out and came up with 2610 63's. I don't really know how many were made and I will tell you that RP didn't know either. Frank Sciabica from RP once told me not to believe the productions numbers you read as the fuel injection business was a nightmare and paper work was not organized as it should be.
Are you going to Spring Carlisle Don??? Talk to you later, John D.
P.S.
One more thing is this. It's a whole new ball game with fuel injections (and carbs) today guys. Ethanol has caused this. Expect your cars to run at least 10-15% leaner with wonderful ethanol in them. Calibrating the units with ethanol is almost a waste. Now if you can get some good 100LL or some really hi-octane fuel then you will have something. But don't expect your FI to run like a clock and have boo coo power with ethanol in it. Sluggish it will be. The same as your late model.
Luckily we have all the components today to update the FI units for ethanol. Like I said that doesn't make them run any better but at least they won't be leaking and causing fires from key rubber parts failing.

If you set the air/fuel mixture with a air/fuel meter, it won't be lean or rich.

Little red car (LRC) runs like a clock with plenty of power on 89 octane E-10!:D

Did somebody take your seat at Panera Bread?

Sorry Michael, You are incorrect. Impossible to have a correct setting aka constant setting throughout the entire range of operation with ethanol. Impossible may be a strong word but this time it's correct.

I see you have hit the lottery. Yeah I thought you only used 87 octane.
Whew!!!!! Later as I am outta here.
:smash:

Looks like a drive by shooting to me!:lurk: