Center Console and Radio Bezel Removal
 

I know this has been covered before but I couldn't find any decent write-ups with pictures using the search function. Since I had to take console apart anyway on my 2007 coupe to install an iPod gateway I thought I'd document the process.

Disclaimer: Perform all work on your vehicle at your own risk. I cannot accept liability for any damage or injury caused by using the information in this writeup.

Here are the tools I used:

Attachment 48148852

Flat blade screwdriver with some electrical tape wrapped around the blade (to protect the plastic pieces).
3/8" drive ratchet
10mm socket
3" Socket extension
7mm Nut Driver
T15 Torx Driver
Paper clip (a small interior pick tool would be better)

________________________________________ _____________________________________

Lower your windows all the way.

Disconnect your negative battery terminal.

Attachment 48148853

Open the center console lid and remove the four T15 torx screws and set the console lid out of the way. Note: This step isn't absolutely necessary but it does give you a little more room to work and it only takes a few seconds to do so I'd recommend it.

Attachment 48148854

Using either your fingernails or a wrapped flat blade screwdriver remove the plastic caps at the rear of the center console.

Attachment 48148855

Remove the two 10mm nuts that were under the caps at the rear of the center console.

Attachment 48148856

Using a wrapped flat blade screwdriver pry up on the oval shaped plastic trim piece at the front of the center console as shown. Note: If you have the F55 suspension option you'll have a wiring harness to disconnect underneath the oval piece.

Attachment 48148857

Attachment 48148858

Remove the 10mm bolt that is underneath the oval shaped trim piece.

Attachment 48148859

Remove the two 7mm screws at the front of the center console.

Attachment 48148860

Pull up on the passenger side of the E-Brake boot. There are three clips that hold the boot down that you'll have to pop loose. Do so carefully and pull the E-Brake boot up as shown.

Attachment 48148861

Remove the two 7mm screws that were exposed when the E-Brake boot was moved out of the way (shown below).

Attachment 48148862

Attachment 48148863

Carefully loosen the plastic trim piece that follows the radio bezel on the passenger side of the car. You don't need to take it all the way off, just loosen it as shown.

Attachment 48148864

Lift the back of the center console off of the studs in the rear and slide it back towards the rear of the car. It may take some maneuvering to get it around the E-Brake boot.

Pull the shifter boot in toward the shifter lever to release the plastic tabs from their slots in the bezel as shown.

Attachment 48148865

Attachment 48148866

Carefully pull the bezel up and away from the dash a few inches. There are several clips that hold it in on either side of the radio so it will not come out super easily but you shouldn't have to be superman to get it loose either. If it feels like it's not turning loose make sure it's not caught on something.

Once there are a few inches of clearance between the bezel and the dash disconnect the wiring harnesses that connected to the back of it. Mine had two heated seat harnesses, a cigarette lighter harness and a hazard switch harness at the very top.

Attachment 48148867

Attachment 48148868

Once you've disconnected the connectors at the back of the bezel rotate it so the top of it goes toward the passenger seat and disconnect the remaining two wiring harnesses toward the back of the piece. The Active Handling/Traction Control connector is pretty much self explanatory. There is a plastic piece on the side of it that you gently pry up that will allow you to disconnect it.

The cigarette lighter connector was the single worst part of this job. It took me a few minutes of looking/feeling to figure it out. There is a hole at the very top of the female end of the connector that the male end clips into holding it in place. The only problem is that the aforementioned hole is located at the very top of the connector facing the underside of the bezel... WTF GM? Anyway you'll need a tool like this one:

Attachment 48148869

or a short interior pick to stick down in the hole and release the clip holding the harness in place and pull back (toward the dash) on the harness at the same time. Here is the connector disconnected. The part facing the camera is pointed up (facing the bottom of the bezel) when installed.

Attachment 48148870

Attachment 48148871

Set the bezel aside.

Attachment 48148872

This is what you're left with in the car. If you want to remove the radio and the A/C head unit just remove the six 7mm bolts and pull them out. You'll have several wiring harnesses in the back to disconnect as you go but there is plenty of slack in all of them. I didn't get pictures of this step but it's pretty intuitive.

Attachment 48148873

Reverse the steps above to get everything back together. Don't forget to reconnect the hazard switch at the top of the bezel... that one's easy to forget.

That is a really good write-up.

After doing mine, more than once, the one tip I would add is that when re-installing the lower console (bottom part of glove box) is to make sure it is pulled all the way back when tightening the two rear nuts. This will allow the radio bezel to sit down better and align better with the lower console where they meet.

Nice write up. Did mine many times and by coincidence twice today. (don't ask). The only thing I would say is I don't see the need to remove the 10mm bolts at the rear of the console.

:thumbs: great write-up
Thanks :cheers:

Nice.

I would add a small addendum to this. If you only need to get the bezel out of the way and not remove it totally (as in replacing a shifter or the like) you can avoid messing with the lighter connectors and (if I remember correctly) the aux power connector and the traction control switch connector by simply disconnecting everything else and then carefully rotating the entire bezel into the passenger footwell. The wires are long enough to handle it. Be sure to wrap the bezel in a towel or something before you do this as the bezel has some sharp corners that can scratch the dash and glove box. Eliminating three connector battles is a nice thing. :yesnod:

Z//

:cheers:

Thanks!! This will help a lot, I removed my console about two months ago. I had my friend wrap it with 3m Di-Noc while I had some trans work done. Now it will be a lot easier putting it all back together!

Attachment 48148850

-Carl

You left out the two screws on the side, adjacent to the e-brake lever. In your pictures, you show those two already out. Extra warning on those as I found out the hard way, they are really easy to drop and disappear down into places/parts unknown...I still haven't found one of mine. All else is good. This center console is a PITA to remove and install whereas the C-5 is easy. No clue why they had to make it so difficult.

Good tip. I didn't remove that piece for this job though. If you're just pulling the bezel there's no need to.

I think it's a little easier to remove the radio bezel if you can slide the center console back a few inches. You can't do that if it's still bolted down to the studs in the rear.

There's a step in the write-up to remove them, but you're right, I neglected to include a picture of them before removing them. I think I actually did take a picture of them before removing them though. I'll check tonight and add it if I did.

Thanks for the kind words guys. I was surprised there wasn't already a write-up like this in this section. I found a few old ones when I searched but the pictures aren't hosted anymore.

:rock:

good write up.

Great instructions. So you don't have to remove the shifter knob to remove the bezel????

If that's the case I have plans for my stereo system.

Great write-up. Thanks for taking the time to document it for us.:thumbs:

:lurk: thank.. Getting ready to pull mine soon.. :lurk:

Nope, no need to remove the knob. If you have an auto you might want to shift into neutral and set the ebrake when you start. I'm not sure if you'd have enough clearance to slide the bezel up and over it if you're in park...

Yes I do have an auto. Thanks again for the excellent write up.

Great instructions. However, Im still uncomfortable with doing this myself. Im on Long Island and was wondering if someone local would be able to lend a hand with installing mine.

You almost definitely have a local corvette club over there. Look them up and I'm sure someone will help you out...

Try one of these:

http://www.licoa.org/

http://www.longislandvettes.com/

http://www.corvettelegends.com/clubs/ny.htm

Pics of this step have been added. :thumbs:

Thanks. Im already a member of one. I was gonna ask one of those guys too.

Yep, Just saw them. Those two little screws are so easy to drop and they truly will vanish to parts/places unknown as I know all too well.

Paper clip tool ftw! The cigarette lighter always slows me down.

Awesome thread. Thanks for the hard work!

:thumbs:

Write up
 

Thanks for that great write up. I am installing the new Mgw shifter this friday. This write up is going to make this shifter install a piece of cake. Bravo Zulu.:flag:

No problem. You're going to love that MGW. They are the hands down the best shifters on the market. :thumbs:

Tech info
 

Just installed my MGW shifter with the help of this write up. The bezel was off in under 15 min. The shifter was in in no time. Thanks for all of your hard work CDkcorvette7. Everything went right on this project thanks to you. All the best. :cheers:

Yep, this was hugely helpful for removing the console form my '12 GS...Thank You!!!

Changed the bushings on my shifter box today. Thanks for the great writeup!

cdkcorvette7 Thank you for the write-up I am C5 owner but my friend Bought a new shift ball and needed me to cut down his stock C6Z06 Shifter down and put a 9/16-18 thread on it so he can use his new Shift ball so :thumbs: to you great write up 15 min. to get it out.


Pops

Great write-up! Thanks for your contribution.

Video
 

For those of us who don't visualize the written word very well, MGW has a pretty good Youtube video showing the console top removal for a shifter install. It's pretty well the same as the pictures above. Perhaps a little easier for some of us to understand exactly what is going on. http://www.mgwltd.com/corvette_short...allation.shtml
Between these pictures and the video, I think pretty well anyone, including me, could do the console removal with confidence. Thanks for your pictures.

:thumbs:

Concur on great write up! I would also endorse the contributor above that said you can simply swing the bezel over into the passenger footwell without fighting the connector for the cigarrette lighter/accessory plug. No need to remove that connector unless you want to totally remove the bezel from the car.

Great Write Up

Heading to the Garage to remove mine and connect Ipod adapter

Great write up:thumbs:

Which iPod gateway did you install. Any pics after the install?

I used the ISGM575 kit from PAC Audio. It's their PXAMG interface with all the harnesses needed.

Sorry, no pics of the install process but it's really straightforward. Just follow the steps in the write-up above then remove the radio and A/C head units, set the dip switches on the gateway per the instructions in the manual and plug it in, run enough wire out to get your iPod where you want it then put everything back together.

Great write up, I just replaced mine with one of the carbon fiber consoles. The cigarette lighters are definitely a PITA.

Thank you. This helped a lot!

Thank you very much for the nice pics and writeup! I can't believe how much searching and Googling I had to do to find this page.

Well done!!!!!!!!!! :thumbs:

Great Job! :thumbs: I really like the photo of the tools where you can read Made in USA. :flag:

Haha, didn't even realize that when I took the pic. :flag:

Glad this is still helping some people out!

Yeah man, this is a huge help for me. Tomorrow I'm installing a new Pioneer H/U that I bought from Dennis at DoubleD Mods. :D

I've got your pics and instructions all printed out. If you lived in my area, I would definitely buy you a beer. Heck, I'd buy dinner, LOL. :flag:

Again, many thanks for taking the time to post good pics and explain the process in detail. Kudos :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

EDIT: I copied and pasted cdkcorvette7's terrific instructions from post #1, then edited, then saved as a 9-page PDF file, which is available for download on my server. The file size is about 1MB, not too big. Here's the link to get the PDF file: http://csgbenefits.org/C6_Console_and_Radio_Removal.pdf Right-click, then "Save as"......

Thanks guys. Is this a forum sticky?
Jeff

looks great :thumbs:

is there a similar write up for 2008+ consoles?

My car is a 2008 and I used the write up as shown. I did notice a few small discrepancies, but got my new H/U in with no problems at all. Hope this helps...........

You Sir are a godsend. My C6 shifter locked up while on a trip and when I trailered it home I found your post and I'm on the road to replacing the automatic shifter. Thank you for taking the time to help us all out. I salute you. :flag:

I have done this so many times I can get it out in 6-7 minutes. I have had that in and out so many times lol. If anyone needs help in the RI or MA area hit me up, I would be glad to help

Thanks for the write up and pics.

Thanks for the excellent step-by-step instructions with photographs...made the job very easy!:D

MGW LTD has a nice write up

nice job, thanks

hi guys, do you guys know if a 2008+ radio/shifter console will fit a 2005 c6?

From the Looks of it it seems it will but not 100% sure

Thanks in advance

Yes they will fit.

Thank you Sir. Appreciate the Quick Reply.

It will fit, but your airbag indicater light will not have a spot in an 08 console as the airbag light was moved to the rear view mirror. I moved my light to the glovebox above the keyed switch. I made a little box for it, if you need pics i can take them tomorrow. I will say it looks soooo much better than the cheap looking silver. Good luck

AC Control unit
 

Great description, this will get me to the point where I need to replace the AC (flashing) control unit. Is there a TSB to rectify the flashing or do I need to replace the unit still? If I replace the unit myself will I need any reprogramming from the dealer, or is it just a plug and play? I had a price for the dealer to replace and they want $680 for the unit and $165 labor, what a rip off. I see the genuine replacement on ebay for $330.
First time replying here, but many time reader, great forum.

It's a simple plug and play. Can be changed in 15-20 minutes. Buy yourself a used one and save a bunch of money.

AC unit
 

Thanks, Does the quick change include getting the center console and trim out of the way? Looks like there are probably two mounting screws and then just a bunch of connectors at the back?

Correct. Pull the trim off, remove 2 mounting screws (maybe 4... Can't remember) and unplug. Pretty easy.

AC/HVAC unit just plugs in. 3 connector, 2 or 4 screws.

Center console trim can be taken out in < 10 minutes if you've done it before--first time will probably take longer. Toughest part is getting the wires disconnected; traction control button is probably the toughest.

AC Unit
 

Will give it a shot when I get back to Green Valley AZ, at present in SJ CA. Hope the flashing does not start for my 12 hour drive back, may have to cover it with black tape :-).

:iagree:...I will be doing this very soon

I'm doing this now and I can't get the console up out of the way with the shifter in park. Do I have to take it out of park to get the console off?

It is much easier to remove the console with the shifter out of Park, but if you can't get it out of Park, these are the 2 options to you.

1) On the right side of the shifter, under the shifter boot, you can press down, and this should make it so you can move the shifter into neutral.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...589bef0f82.jpg

2) If #1 does not work, then you can get the console up as high as possible, get the leather boot moved up out of the way, and see if you can get something under to release the locking pawl to be able to shift out of Park.
Some owners have tied back the locking pawl, without having to completely remove the console.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...k-finally.html
Hopefully, this will help.

Console on 2008 convertible
 

Does anyone know how to remove the console and radio trim on a 2008? The Oval shape covering the bolt and two screws does not exist on this model! Do you just pull hard and hope nothing breaks?

Post a picture. If there are no screws holding it on then I'd start pulling on it

Did it. Took a few hours. I had a hard time removing the cigarette lighter plug, and putting it back on. I appreciate the time you took to outline the fix here on CorvetteForum's, a big help. I also watched the YouTube video a few times.

Just did this....been putting it off for awhile as I heard it's a pita.....went VERY smoothly thanks to this thread....

I just spun the cigarette lighter socket til I could see the clip easily....was easy

How do the little gauge pod clusters (around Hud and trip buttons) remove? Can I just pry them off? Clipped on or screwed in from the back?



*nevermind....they are built in to the gauge cluster*

Great instruction...just pulled mine out made it easy...thanks... going to get it painted body color....previous owner had fake carbon fiber wrap and installed with contact cement in some places....

I have to replace the TC button, this will help. Thanks

I'm glad I found this excellent write-up, since I have to replace the HVAC module in m y 2007 and mechanics around the SF Bay area want $200/hour. Thanks for taking the time to describe everything clearly and add in all the great photos. :thumbs:

Here is a video:

https://www.mgwshifters.com/shifters/corvettes/71