Scratch Removal?
 

Today a dog jumped on the vette. I am curious what a good scratch remover is. It isn't into the paint, but certainly a pretty bad scratch. You can feel it with your nail.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Photo0295.jpg
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l.../Photo0294.jpg

yeah, the friggin' cat next door scratched my hood..I am interested to find out also:ack:

That sucks, last year there was a dog or car on the hood.
They aren't very deep, and can barely feel them with my nail.

Good news and bad news.

Good news is the scratch will come out...bad news is you won't do it without a buffer.

Wetsanding it will most likely remove most of the scratch. However, I would suggest trying it with some Meguiars 105 on a yellow or orange pad at high speed with your DA buffer. This will make it look far less visible. However, even with wet sanding, it may not get rid of it altogether, and a respray will be the only fix.

I did one like that backing my truck with the hood up. Hit the garage door opener connector. It came out with careful wet sanding and my DA with Adams products. I know where it is and can find it with a light but others who saw it unpaired can not find it. If its not through the clear you may be able to fix it. :cheers:

Sadly I do not have a buffer, this is all I have. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053
I have a friend with some sort of buffer, Ill have to ask him about it, not sure if it is like what I have or a real one.

You may want to find a local detailer of some repute. They will have the appropriate tools to solve this. If they aren't very deep a good compound will probably be enough and follow that up with polish. I'm not familiar with your equipment, so I can't say if it would be safe to use with the proper pads.

Deep Scratches

A surface scratch that will `catch' your fingernail is approximately 0.04 Mil (1.0 µ) deep will usually require wet sanding (you should sand the scratch to bare metal because the device that caused this scratch was probably used with enough pressure to damage both the paint and the primer) and the clear coat refinishing

Removing a scratch requires removing the layer of paint that contains the defect; you need to level the paint to the lowest point of the scratch. Removing more that 0.5 mil (12µ) of clear coat will cause premature paint film failure as UV protection percolates to the top of the clear coat. Check paint film thickness with a Paint Thickness Meter (PTG) before you attempt to remove

As you go over a deep scratch, the abrasives round off the edges of the high spots of the scratch. The result is a shallower scratch (when no full correction can be made) rounded edges don’t reflect light the same way a sharp edge will and is therefore less noticeable.

It may be necessary to carry out some localized wet sanding to facilitate full removal of any deep scratches, once again, paint thickness must be checked, and if the paint is too thin wet sanding is NOT an option.

Once you have levelled the scratch apply paint in ‘layers’, by applying a coat of paint and then allowing it to dry, apply paint, and etc. Apply paint until it’s higher than the surrounding surface and then polish level.

Note: metallic paint is very difficult to match as the flakes won’t ‘lay down’ like OEM applied paint.

I've had success using m105 by hand to remove scratches.

That does not look bad. I had a few of those scratches that I buffed out with some polish and a buffer.