Originally Posted by Johnjabour
(Post 1584073454)
I just did a Google search and found that Allied Electronics has 1205 units in stock ( so I ordered a few)
John |
Originally Posted by Johnjabour
(Post 1584073454)
I just did a Google search and found that Allied Electronics has 1205 units in stock ( so I ordered a few)
John |
c'mon man don't bogart all the relays bro! :D
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Originally Posted by TNX ZORA
(Post 1584094314)
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Originally Posted by nvusgt
(Post 1577339879)
For 2001 and later C5's
This is my first write up for CorvetteForum and without this Forum I would not have been able to repair my own EBCM. Bear with me as I may have forgotten something or may not have been too clear in my explanation. Please feel free to ask any questions. First, if you don’t already know how, you’ll want to Pull Your Codes Next, I will direct you to the Electrical Info Thread where you should try to take care of any issues you could have in the ground points. (Thanks to Bill Curlee for the thread) Once the grounds have been cleaned and taken care of we’ll move on to the removal of the EBCM. I'm aware that step 7 says to send it to ABSfixer. Disregard that step and we'll proceed to the disassembly of the EBCM. Items required: Soldering Iron Solder De-Solder braid or pump 1 Phillips Screw Driver Exacto Knife Tube of Silicone Sealent Now in order to remove the case I followed these steps: 1. remove 4 x screws 2. remove silicon from that hole on the back lower corner of the EBCM. 3. use a 2BA (or similar) 'thread tap' to cut a thread in that hole 4. screw matching thread screw/bolt into hole, (it misses pcb inside) until it touches cover plate (screw/bolt needs to be 3" long max). 5. carry on winding the screw in until it starts pushing the cover plate away enough to break that gasket seal and allow space to insert those flat blade screwdrivers and work around the remainder. (Thank You JerseyC5) But if you’re like me you won’t have a tap to make a nice threaded hole. I was lucky and found a screw long enough and small enough to be threaded by hand. This is used to apply enough pressure so the back would separate. Refer to the image and said screw I used: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...p/DSCN0070.jpg Once the EBCM is taken apart it will look this (Once again Thank You Bill Curlee): http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...assembled9.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ssembled13.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...assembled6.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...assembled4.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...assembled1.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...ssembled12.jpg You may need some good lighting and possibly a magnifying glass to inspect the solder points of 5posts. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...p/6622041b.jpg This most likely, as with so many others on the Forum causing the C1214 code. You need to get a soldering iron and some solder to re-solder any point that looks questionable. Once done you will want to test the EBCM, so put the box back together WITHOUT sealant and temp install the EBCM in your C5. Clear any codes before starting your car and you should be ok to start her up and check for any DIC messages. If you have no messages then you've successfully repaired your own EBCM. Remove the EBCM apply some silicone and put the box back together completely. Install the EBCM using the steps here in reverse. For replacing relay If you suspect or may want to buy a new relay as a “just in case,” you’ll need to go here and place an order for a new relay. You’ll also need to remove the silicone that’s surrounding the relay like so http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...p/DSCN0077.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...p/DSCN0078.jpg Be very careful to not cut anything around the relay or the Circuit Board. Once the silicone is removed de-solder the points and cut a small amount off of each post in order to lower the relay and slide it out. Take the new relay and just like the relay you removed, you may have to cut some material off each post to get it to fit. Install the relay, solder the points and refer to the instructions for install above. Hopefully this makes enough sense for you guys to follow. Again if you have any questions feel free to ask. Thanks to everyone who helped me and to the members who had previous info on this stupid C1214 code. nvusgt |
Marked :)
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Very Very good post!:rock::woohoo:
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Originally Posted by jrhott
(Post 1584420062)
Please Note: The relay PB380-ND HAS BEEN SUPERCEDED BY PB1321-ND
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Does this apply if I have the C1255 code?
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Originally Posted by Arc07
(Post 1584436882)
Does this apply if I have the C1255 code?
You can try all the recommended solder repairs but, it may not work. Document ID# 670687 2001 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- DTC C1255 or C1256 Circuit Description This DTC identifies a malfunction within the electronic brake control module (EBCM). Conditions for Running the DTC The ABS conditions and the braking conditions are normal. Conditions for Setting the DTC An internal EBCM malfunction exists. Action Taken When the DTC Sets C1255 If equipped, the following actions occur: The EBCM disables the DRP/ABS/TCS/VSES for the duration of the ignition cycle. The ABS indicator turns ON. The Traction Control and Active Handling indicator turns ON. The red Brake warning indicator turns ON. The DIC displays the following messages: Service ABS Service Traction System Service Active Handling The EBCM will also set DTC C1248. For some DTC C1255xx, the EBCM disables the variable effort steering (VES) for the duration of the ignition cycle. C1256 The ABS remains functional. The ABS indicator remains OFF. Conditions for Clearing the DTC The condition for the DTC is no longer present and the DTC is cleared with a scan tool. The EBCM automatically clears the history DTC when a current DTC is not detected in 100 consecutive drive cycles. Diagnostic Aids The scan tool displays 2 additional characters after the DTC. Take note of the 2 character code and any other DTCs that are set. The 2 character code is an engineering aid used in order to determine the cause of the internal malfunction. When the scan tool displays DTC C1255m3, the EBCM has not been programmed. Perform the setup procedure for the EBCM. Test Description The number below refers to the step number on the diagnostic table. Determines whether the DTC is current. Step Action Yes No Schematic Reference: ABS Schematics 1 Did you perform the ABS Diagnostic System Check? Go to Step 2 Go to Diagnostic System Check - ABS 2 Install a scan tool. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs. With the scan tool, perform the Automated Test. Does the DTC reset as a current DTC? Go to Step 3 Go to Testing for Intermittent and Poor Connections in Wiring Systems 3 Replace the EBCM. Refer to Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) Replacement . Did you complete the repair? Go to Step 4 -- 4 Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs. With the scan tool, perform the Automated Test. Does the DTC reset? Go to Step 2 System OK -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Document ID# 670687 2001 Chevrolet/Geo Corvette |
Geo Corvette??? That's demeaning...
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Thanks for the info Bill. What I find strange about my particular case is that this will occasionally "fix" itself from time to time. The only problem is that, while it's "fixed", the active handling is actively trying to kill me by applying brake pressure at the most random times during normal driving. The only way to remedy it is by disabling the TCS. I found a vendor on fleabay that swaps your EBCM for theirs so I guess that's my only option at the moment. I keep missing the very rare "EBCM for $200" posts on the parts for sale forum.
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A few more tips about the repair
Was ready to send mine out to ABS fixer when I saw this sticky. I've done a fair amount of automotive repair work, so figured I could knock this one out in an hour or two. Here are a few tips based on my 4 hour job...
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I did this fix today. Reset all codes and drove it, so far so good. Thanks for the info!
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Fantastic post,,,,fixed my 01 vert in under 2 hours
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Hi guys ! I've tried to fix mine, I've changed relay (found on digikey.com) remount ebcm, and then I have a new code 58-SDM U1040 and 'Service Column Lock' message (my steering wheel is blocked too)
when I remove ebcm and turn the key the message 'Service Column Lock' don't come back and I can move my steering Wheel Here is the relay I've received (I ordered PB1321-ND and this is what invoice mentioned) http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/16/88/84/68/img_2012.jpg Does anyone know how to do please ? |
Originally Posted by capobm
(Post 1584562062)
Hi guys ! I've tried to fix mine, I've changed relay (found on digikey.com) remount ebcm, and then I have a new code 58-SDM U1040 and 'Service Column Lock' message (my steering wheel is blocked too)
when I remove ebcm and turn the key the message 'Service Column Lock' don't come back and I can move my steering Wheel Here is the relay I've received (I ordered PB1321-ND and this is what invoice mentioned) http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/16/88/84/68/img_2012.jpg Does anyone know how to do please ? |
None of those new DTCs are related to anything that you did to the EBTCM.
Make sure that your battery is fully charged and it is a good idea to have it full tested at a parts store or service center. Make sure that the battery has proper reserve capacity and its able to hold voltage under load. If the battery us good, reinstall and make sure that the terminals are properly torqued tight ( 11 ft/lbs for 97-2003 C5s ) Once the battery is fully tested , fully charged and reconnected, pull up the DTCs and clear ALL the DTCs. When you reconnect the battery, it will set random DTCs and all should be set as HISTORY or "H" codes. You need to purchase and install a COLUMN LOCK BYPASS module. The best one to purchase is the LMC-5. It will eliminate the locked steering wheel problem and the 2 mile per hour fuel shut off. READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes (DTCs) The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure: 1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. 2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open etc…) 3) Press and hold OPTIONS 4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period. Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display. There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, C or ;H. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction. Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction. Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back. To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules. NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information? First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. Here is very good site of DTC definitions: http://www.gearchatter.com Make sure to include the H or C suffix!! |
I remember now, few days ago I have "Pull Key, Wait 10 Seconds" message and engine shut down, but column lock only when I remount ebcm module I will buy LMC5 module on eBay, see what happens, and come back here, thank you.
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