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-   -   How-To repair EBCM avoiding costly repairs through ABSfixer or Fleabay (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/2816125-how-to-repair-ebcm-avoiding-costly-repairs-through-absfixer-or-fleabay.html)

wcsinx 04-02-2013 02:50 PM


Originally Posted by Bill Curlee (Post 1583512912)
Well,, It comes out on PIN 21 (Lt Blue Wire) You can follow the trace inside the module but its going to go to the microprocessor under the board and nothing there is at all serviceable.

The processor of course is not serviceable, but the trace itself is. What do you bet he sliced it with his screwdriver in the process of prying the case open? Keep in mind, he was getting 1214 before working on it and NO COMMS after. So it was talking prior to his repair. Personally I would probe the trace from one pin to the other. If no continuity then use a jumper lead.

dangerz 04-04-2013 02:26 AM

I'll have to try this fix soon. I'm getting 1218 which I've read is similar to 1214.

nwashburn 04-14-2013 08:58 AM

This worked for me yesterday. I am happy, happy,happy!

jimcork1 04-14-2013 12:12 PM

You would think GM would find a permenant solution and resolve this problem.

Chicago1 04-14-2013 01:05 PM

One of my solenoids came off the board. Am I screwed cause that board is soldered liek no other

Bill Curlee 04-14-2013 02:06 PM

If the lead wires on the coil broke, there wont be enough to re-solder it back on. Only way I know of repairing it is to find another discarded unit and salvage parts off of it.

It really isn't difficult to get the main board off the housing. You need a solder sucker and a solder iron and a little patience.

Bill

Ric Arcaro 04-14-2013 02:29 PM

Another successful repair!!! Thank you all who support Corvette forum and the awesome support we get from the Tech Guru's

Chicago1 04-14-2013 07:01 PM


Originally Posted by Bill Curlee (Post 1583636253)
If the lead wires on the coil broke, there wont be enough to re-solder it back on. Only way I know of repairing it is to find another discarded unit and salvage parts off of it.

It really isn't difficult to get the main board off the housing. You need a solder sucker and a solder iron and a little patience.

Bill

no it came clean off the 2 leads are still intact. Ill post up a pic tommorow

andrec10 04-14-2013 08:59 PM


Originally Posted by Chicago1 (Post 1583637866)
no it came clean off the 2 leads are still intact. Ill post up a pic tommorow

If the leads are still in the board, you need a new relay, which can easily be soldered in.

corvette77 04-14-2013 10:31 PM

Pulled mine off and repaired it today. I pulled it up on my ramps to raise the front, which made it much easier to get to the lower 4 screws, from underneath.

Also, this was my first soldier job, so I was excited when the codes cleared!

Mr. Mike 04-20-2013 12:32 PM

Have read where it's ok to drive without module attached or installed (2003 Z06) if you cover the open connection to the pump, true? Just looking to move it out of the driveway so I can get the 64 out. (broke back out screw off flush with unit so I now need to send it out). Thx.

Bill Curlee 04-20-2013 02:06 PM

Yes,, its OK. Just make sure that the harnesses are out of the way of the belts and don't get damaged. You will have lots of codes and DIC messages.

AH TC and ABS will not work. :thumbs: You will still have NORMAL brake functions.

BC

zulatr 04-29-2013 03:51 PM

what if anything should be done to replace the potting around the component side of the board? That grayish, crumbly gummy stuff.

What type of sealer should you use to refill the pusher hole?
(RTV with acidic acid is not recommended around electronics)

jimcork1 04-29-2013 04:18 PM


Originally Posted by zulatr (Post 1583768761)
what if anything should be done to replace the potting around the component side of the board? That grayish, crumbly gummy stuff.

What type of sealer should you use to refill the pusher hole?
(RTV with acidic acid is not recommended around electronics)

I would not recommend any potting material, Seal up the case well but I would put nothing on the electronics.

MN-Brent 05-27-2013 07:12 PM

Add me to the list of successful fixes. Three of the five relay connections were broken solder joints. I was only having intermittent "Service ABS" messages coming on. I touched up quite a few other joints as well, just to beef them up, especially the larger ones.

:cheers:

Chicago1 05-28-2013 11:52 AM


Originally Posted by andrec10 (Post 1583638840)
If the leads are still in the board, you need a new relay, which can easily be soldered in.

Yeah the soldered it back on and it's gtg. When I went to install it I'm still getting c1214 but they said it's working. :(

Chicago1 05-28-2013 11:53 AM

Would anyone be willing to try mine out? I will pay for shipping there and back. The place that fixed it said its working properly and tested good after they fixed it but I'm still getting c1214 or whatever that one is. :( please

9020v 05-29-2013 10:23 AM


Originally Posted by Chicago1 (Post 1584010151)
Would anyone be willing to try mine out? I will pay for shipping there and back. The place that fixed it said its working properly and tested good after they fixed it but I'm still getting c1214 or whatever that one is. :( please

Cheap-ABS claims to replace the relay with a new original on all their delphi rebuilds. I don't know if that would solve your problem, but maybe its worth a shot if the other guys just reflowed some joints.

2fas2c 06-03-2013 07:33 PM

can someone please tell me where to get the relays??? digi key no longer carries the one listed :(

Johnjabour 06-04-2013 05:18 PM

I just did a Google search and found that Allied Electronics has 1205 units in stock ( so I ordered a few)
John


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