Good job on the success of your repair. While I was not confused by the instructions, without the clues on how to take apart the sealed unit, I would have ultimately worked on it until I likely caused some damage to the potmetal case. These instructions have saved lots of people lots of $$$$$$$$. I did purchase two of the relays for future spares, but I hope that I never need them.

Rich

This is probably one of the single most beneficial threads for the C5 Z06. I'm coming up on a year since I did this repair (re-solder only) and it has worked flawlessly.

I again offer my personal thanks to those who discovered and shared this knowledge.

I don't know how but my screw went through the circuit board and jacked it up. Got another one and now have the code again. Anyone wanna do mine ill through some cash your way.

Another one fixed! Thanks!

:rofl:

I just repaired my 2002 EBCM by just resoldering the bad connections. I did not replace the relay. Dealer wanted $1,600 to replace it.

:cool:

Awesome info, resoldered the 5 pins, no relay replacement, good to go.
Well as soon as the snow melts.

awesome
 

I just re soldered mine as well and it's working great. This thread as with many others are saving me thou$and$ of dollars on my '02 and are greatly appreciated. Keep it up guys..:thumbs:

I have been getting rare/intermittent 1214 codes in my 2002 convert for ~2 years now. These recently starting happening every trip, after 10-15 minutes of driving (no correlation to driving, braking hitting bumps, etc.). So sounded like bad solder joints that became a problem after heating up (I'm an electrical engineer and have seen much of this in BWMs as well once lead free solder was mandated).

So I read this great post and re-solodered these connections on my board. After reinstalling, I'm getting 1571 codes and the traction control system reads NO COMM. I saw in this thread and others this likely meant poor connections to the EBCM so removed both cables to the EBCM and checked pins for dirt, corrosion, bent pins etc. All were fine (this is a Texas car so have had zero corrosion problems, though I did change my grounds over to eyelets just to be safe). I also pulled the EBCM and double-checked my soldering and it looks good. Put it carefully back together again and same codes. Wires all look fine with no signs of damage, chafing, etc.

Might I have damaged something on the board to be causing this? I did have to separate the housing with a screwdriver after the screw in the hole method didn't work (broke the screw, later drilled it out). I was very careful to not let the screwdrivers go in too far and used several and a heat gun to gently open it up. Anything else to check?

Appreciate the help as this is an excellent forum!

Thanks,

Doug

Some have actually had to replace the relay in the EBCM. I'm not sure if that's your problem though.

Don't think so or I'd still be getting 1214 DTCs.

Since you have a NO COMM situation you can't be sure. It won't pass any codes without comm.

I assumed that as well. So any idea what else could be preventing communication given I've checked wires for damage, bent pins, etc.?

I've been struggling to come up with an adequate answer but I can't at this time. I know you have checked all the connections more than once so not sure what else to look for without stabbing in the dark.

Is there any chance the external wiring connector on the EBCM didn't get seated properly? I know there's a slim chance of that happening simply because of the connection design.

Other than that I'd only suggest to look at the module again (uugh..I know....)

If I have an epiphany I'll let you know!

Best of luck.

PS I think I have a new relay I could send if you decide to replace it. I bought it when I did my EBCM but didn't need it in the end. I only had to re-sweat about 5 solder points and it's been trouble free for over a year.

Lead-free solder causes all kinds of problems. Way more problems than a little lead in our environment (hey, where do you think lead comes from?)

I asked a scientist I know once why I see so many trucks driving on the road with several LED's out in the multi-LED taillights and he stated it's the lead-free solder. The stuff just doesn't make a good durable connection. The LED's are actually fine and if you were to take the light apart and re-solder the connections, all would light again...

Indeed. Wish I had a schematic of this board to know where the comm lines come in and route so I could check them. I'm afraid I'm going to have to find another EBCM unless someone has seen and solved this before.

Well,, It comes out on PIN 21 (Lt Blue Wire) You can follow the trace inside the module but its going to go to the microprocessor under the board and nothing there is at all serviceable.

Make sur that all the power is getting to the module:

Under hood box Fuses 52 and 5 & fuse 8 instrument panel box

Measure the voltage at the fuses to ground

Thanks Bill, good idea. I pulled the fuses and checked them but didn't measure voltage with a meter.

Unfortunately the fuses all checked out fine. Hadn't checked #8 in the instrument panel since didn't know it was part of it but it's fine, too. So guess I'll send it off and see what happens.

I saw the absfixer references, but what about the one that advertises on the forum, myairbags.com? On my Suburban years ago I had used bba-reman.com but they are pretty pricey for the Corvette EBCM.

I used absfixer to repair my ebcm module in my 03z. Worked great. It did take restarting the car twice to get the light off. I still remember connecting the battery after the install and the first startup because of bow much my heart sank thinking the problem still existed. Good times, still miss the car bad too.