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When to replace wheel bearing???
How do you know if you need a new wheel bearing? After I installed new wheels and tires last summer I noticed on the highway that I get a pulsating vibration at around 60mph. The vibration is constant, it comes in pulses, Ex: Driving @60mph vibration/pulse happens every 3 seconds intervals (if that makes any sense). I don't feel it as much driving slower, and if I remember correctly, at higher speeds the intervals quicken then go away.
Has anyone experienced this phenomenon? I'm going to get the car re-aligned, but wondering if road force balancing may help my issue. I just don't want to start throwing money around at problems if it's not needed. Thanks. |
Don't think that your problem is a bearing. Bearings usually will make noise in direct relation to the car speed - higher = more noise. The noise will be constant and not pulsating. You can also detect a bad bearing by jacking the car up grabbing the wheel and rocking it top to bottom to check for lateral movement. Anything more than a very small movement = bearing wear. Unfortunately, can't help on further diagnosis - an on - off again pulsation is a tough one without actually driving the car to see what is happening.
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I agree. Either wheel balance and/or alignment. Get a "load Force" balance done. Have them also check to insure you don't have a damaged wheel.
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Possible your rotor is warped and lightly rubbing the brake pads? That would account for the pulsation but should be evident at lower speeds too. I would take a high speed run, and then do a quick pit stop, and check to see if one of your rotors is hotter then the others. If one rotor is significantly hotter, then that would indicate the problem area.
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Its your rear outter tie rods! I have been having the same exact problem, took it to get an alignment done and the tech showed me that both of my rear tie rod bushing are worn out. You can check this by jacking up your car and grabbing your tire at 9 and 3 and see if theres any play. If you grab at 12 and 6 and theres play then its your bearing like mentioned above. I ordered my tie rod ends from ecklers and they should be here friday and can give you an update if it solves my problem.
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i had the exact same problem from a bent wheel. jack it up and give it a spin to check the circularity. if bent, its most likely on the inner lip. this can be repaired pretty easily.
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I have the same problem going on, and I too was told it was my wheel bearing and that I should wait for it to get worse to know for sure. I have been driving it like that daily for 3 or 4 months now and it hasn't changed at all. I currently have no clue was is causing this.
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Some issue with the tire or rim being in balance would be my guess.. Bearing would be constant.
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time to replace is when it wobbles ( vibration) whines or grinds....
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Thanks for the feedback...
Is it possible that a spindle can cause this issue? |
Originally Posted by just inc
(Post 1577141255)
Its your rear outter tie rods! I have been having the same exact problem, took it to get an alignment done and the tech showed me that both of my rear tie rod bushing are worn out. You can check this by jacking up your car and grabbing your tire at 9 and 3 and see if theres any play. If you grab at 12 and 6 and theres play then its your bearing like mentioned above. I ordered my tie rod ends from ecklers and they should be here friday and can give you an update if it solves my problem.
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Originally Posted by STALION
(Post 1577147254)
Thanks for the feedback...
Is it possible that a spindle can cause this issue? |
Originally Posted by dgrant3830
(Post 1577193841)
These aren't what you are thinking as a traditional spindle rather a hub assembly which contains the bearing/spindle/sensor and so on and its a sealed unit/assembly. Got to Autozone for the Tiemkin brand as they appear to be the OEM but not sure...very good item for the price.
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Have had this issue for about a year now and have had 2 different sets of wheels on. That didn't help in my case. Wouldn't think I could get 2 sets of wheels with the exact same issue but you never know. I was told about a different remedy. It could be the ring and pinion that has a little slop in it. I am going to check my tie rods this week as that would be easier to fix than the rear diff r&r. Thanks for the info guys.:thumbs:
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Just a quick question. How many miles does everyone have on their car that has this issue? Mine has about 83K on it. But the problem started when it had roughly 75K or so.
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Originally Posted by mstromquist
(Post 1577195313)
Just a quick question. How many miles does everyone have on their car that has this issue? Mine has about 83K on it. But the problem started when it had roughly 75K or so.
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Just turned over 80k! I have had the issue for a while and I have went through two sets of tires on the back and one on the front, an alignment, upgraded some stuff like, clutch, built diff. with 4.10 gears and hardened output shafts, metal end links and pfadt trans brace and none of those helped the issue (I wasnt trying to fix it) but the $44 tie rods took the cake! BTW if you determine that it is in fact the tie rods don't buy the ones from autozone (duralast I believe) because they were to short! Hope that helps!
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Thanks for the info. I think I might just change them anyway. For that little money it couldn't hurt to do. So are you saying go to GM to get the tie rod or O'Reillys or Pepboys?
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Originally Posted by mstromquist
(Post 1577201742)
Thanks for the info. I think I might just change them anyway. For that little money it couldn't hurt to do. So are you saying go to GM to get the tie rod or O'Reillys or Pepboys?
http://www.pfadtracing.com/docs/camb...t-settings.pdf http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y20...ifications.jpg |
Stallion did you get this resolved? Looking into the same issue with mine. Checked for play in the 12-6 for bearing and 3-9 for tie rods neither of which have any play on either side. I do know for a fact that one of my wheels is every so slightly bent (like in the thousandths of an inch) but a Hunter machine picked up on it. So one course of action is to have that worked on. Funny though I did not notice this intermittne pulsation/vibration whatever you want to call it until I had new tires put on this spring and an alignment done.
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The wheel has done around 70 rotations in three seconds at 60mph so it is hard to determine the cause if it is only felt in an interval like that. I would get them balanced first and possibly check the alignment before replacing the bearings. Like was mentioned above, just give the wheels a little tug to see if there is any play.
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I've got the same problem in my 99. its 102k on it now. But it is driving me nuts. Its crazy how annoying it is. I will check my tie rods out for sure.
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Originally Posted by pluslt
(Post 1577999590)
Stallion did you get this resolved? Looking into the same issue with mine. Checked for play in the 12-6 for bearing and 3-9 for tie rods neither of which have any play on either side. I do know for a fact that one of my wheels is every so slightly bent (like in the thousandths of an inch) but a Hunter machine picked up on it. So one course of action is to have that worked on. Funny though I did not notice this intermittne pulsation/vibration whatever you want to call it until I had new tires put on this spring and an alignment done.
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Originally Posted by STALION
(Post 1578012673)
About a month ago I had my appointment to get the car re-balanced using the Hunter's machine and it made a world of difference! My car still has a slight vibration but we traced it down to a sizing issue. Since I'm running Ruff racing wheels that weren't originally made for a vette, the bore size was off and so was the backspacing in the rear. I already had the hub rings to correct the bore issue and 10mm spacers in the rear, but what the mechanic discovered is that instead of needing 4 hub rings (one fore each wheel) I needed 6 hub rings (an extra 2 for the spacers). When I got the spacers I had to get the center bore machined to vette spec at 70.3 and it looks like it may have been slightly off and that's what was causing my vibration. I bought an extra set of center rings for the spacers so this should completely cure what's left of my vibration. So looks like it's not a suspension issue as previously thought. If you recently changed wheels or tires that would be the first place to look and go from there...hope this helps:cheers:
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Don't mean to bring up an old thread but have some new info that fixed my problem.
I changed the rear tie rods a couple months ago but that didn't help with my issue. So I took my car to a shop last week and they sent the wheels and tires to a specialty wheel shop. Found the wheels were pretty close to straight and not out of round enough to cause the problem. 2 of the tire beads (1 front & 1 back) had been cut at some point previously. I heard from a reliable source that this can cause air to get in between the belts of the tire and this could cause the vibration. The back tire actually had 2 cuts in the bead and that is where the vibration was coming from. So I bought 2 new tires and had all 4 rebalanced. Drove it yesterday for a little trip and could not feel the vibration anymore. So it was either the air between the belts or the balance was off. I am thinking it was the air because these tires have been on 2 different sets of wheels and it did it on the last set too. Anyway, that is what I found that fixed my problem. Hope this helps. |
145K on original wheel bearings with no issues.
They tend to make noise viabrate when turning or when the weight is shifting from one side of the car to the other... as in a race driver warming up his tires.... But everu 3 second is odd that is every 265 ft at 60 mph.... unlikley to be tire/wheel related.\ I'd be looking at other suspension parts. |
when you put the car in neutral, do you hold the clutch down or do you release it ?
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Originally Posted by DBucklin
(Post 1579401697)
I'm having a similar issue as the OP on my car: "pulsating vibration at around 60mph. The vibration is constant, it comes in pulses, Ex: Driving @60mph vibration/pulse happens every 2-3 seconds intervals" It starts about 55mph and gets worse the faster I go. Feels just like a bent wheel in the rear, BUT the wheels and tires are good.
My 2001 convertible has 44,000 miles, it's an automatic. 100% stock. I feel it in the floor and seat - not in the steering wheel, I can't tell if it's on the left side or right side. It has new tires, they were Road Force balanced. No bent wheels, etc. It shouldn't be a tire/wheel problem because I put my tires/wheels on another C5 and his car ran perfectly smooth, then I took his tires/wheels and put them on my car and my vibration was still there. We tested on the exact same road. I don't know if my car had the vibration before I put new tires on it because it had worn out Goodyear run-flats when I bought it and they were really terrible so I didn't notice. Here is what I have checked: * I jacked up the rear of the car and ran it up to 55-70 mph with my tires on and also without any tires at all and it doesn't vibrate. * Installed the front tires on the rear axle, ran it up to 55-70 on jacks and no vibration. * While driving on the highway, the vibration is the same if I put the car in neutral, drive, or third gear. Doesn't matter what the engine rpm's are, the vibration doesn't change. * If I weave left & right going down the highway it doesn't change, still vibrates. * I checked all tie rod ends and wheel bearings front & rear - all feel tight. 3 & 9, 12 & 6, etc. No rough spots. * I cleaned all of the wheel to hub surfaces, lug torque to 100 ft lbs. All 4 wheels rotate true on the car. * I pulled the shocks and they are all tight, and no leaks. * Vibration is the same going uphill, or downhill (coasting). I've searched all of the threads here, they mostly point to the hub wheel bearings or tie rod ends. I haven't checked the alignment, but I'm thinking that would cause tire wear problems but not a vibration? It shouldn't be the torque tube or torque converter because the vibration still exists when I shift to neutral and idle at 65mph, and it doesn't vibrate on jack stands? SO if my tire/wheels are good, and it only vibrates while driving with the weight on all fours down what else can I check? :confused2: Any ideas are appreciated! (Sorry for the long post) - Thanks! DB |
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