Good choice in heads. You should be able to find some flat tops that will get you right at 10:1

Curious minds would like to know, why so dead set on the AFR heads?

In your car craft article they zero deck the block so they can use a dish piston and still achieve a good compression ratio.

I would think Dart Pro 1 Platinum 215s could be another option or even some Brodix IKs.

Machine work and those heads plus parts are probably going to put you over that 4200 mark. Check the gm 383 stroker motor price. The crate usually comes in a little more than rebuild but not that much. GM has a forged steel crank also.

http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...-P764C510.aspx

Check out cnc motorsports .This is the combination that I am currently running in my 72 .
Beware that you might have to run a cam with a small base circle .
Eagle competition kit esp-12008
4340 forged crank
5.7 H beam rods
ARP L-19/2000 bolts
internally balanced
11.0:1 SRP pistons 4.040 bore
JE Pro seal rings
Crower cam pn#00351S solid flat tappit Duration@.050 lift 254 intake 292 exhaust
gross lift in. 525" ex 546" and cool face lifters
With a 70cc head comp. drops back to 10.4:1
The rotating assembly was only $1620.00

Use a set of weak springs to brake in the cam and I added a can of ZDDP per crower.
If you read up on the cam it will tell you it is a popular Nascar design . It also does real
good on I-64 . Currently I have 4300mi. on this beast
good luck

:lurk:

They are spot on with regard to the camshaft and the dual quad setup. I did thorough research via internet, blueprinting books, and others' experience. It suits my needs and is a great value for what I am looking for and my budget.

I hope you mean machine work for the block alone and not the heads too, as I have seen people do that. If you did, I am definately not going to mill $2000 heads for an extra 10hp at best. If you didn't, I can still have the blocked machined for under $500, and I will have to do my best to keep the remainder under $1500 :)

Wow, you were right. Flat pistons it is then, but the question is which style? I have seen about 4 different styles for flat alone, any recommendations as to which one is best for my application and why? I won't be stingy with the pistons, if it's worth the extra money I'll dip into the ol' the college fund (just a pinky). My current piston budget is $350-$400.

I can't say I agree with the H-beams.. Still, this combo is unbeatable for that price.

I just don't get HOW you internally balance a stroker without it being more expensive than externally balancing it. It requires additional parts/machining and therefore additional cash. What am I missing here? If I understand this, I'll be a huge leap closer to purchasing my rotating kit.

afr's just like any other head have been known to have problems with machine work such as valves not seating properly. everybody makes love to the afr's, no doubt a good piece, but subject to imperfections too. lotta $ for a semi-budget build

Internally balancing does not use any more parts or is more expensive than externally balancing.

When you try to internally balance a crank that was intended to be externally balanced, it requires extra machining, and mallory metal.
If you start off using a crank that was intended to internally balance, the there is extra weight already in the counter weights so the heavy metal is not needed.
Basically it can be balanced just like it was a 350 or some other internally balanced engine.

As for forged pistons you have a choice between SRPs for $460, Speed Pros for $400 or KB Icons for $360 in that price arena.

Personally I think you are pissing money away with a dual quad setup and the money would be better off spent on your rotating assembly and a high quality single 4 barrel carb with annular discharge.

Beautiful, thank you! I didn't even know that you could internally balance a 400 crank. I guess I was too clouded by the old school method.

Imho, it's worth the look. Everyone has their own style, plus I just haven't seen ANY other C3s with the hi-rise dual quad setup in my area. In terms of weekend summer drivers, I have yet to see one with duals. They are very uncommon nowadays, that's for sure.

Now I ask of one of the most critical points; what should I keep in mind in terms of internal clearencing? I have heard horror stories of rods conflicting with the cam. What is the recommended clearence? Also, how can I measure my deck clearence?

On the AFR's it a god idea to pour the chambers as they advertise 65CC chambers is some times not true as we had a set this summer for a 400 build and we poured the chambers and they were 67.5 CC's every chamber.

We have always used the 6.000 rods cause you can use a crank with the bigger counter weights and those with internally balance no problem.

We use all Callies with the Compstar crank, Compstar rods, Mahle pistons and rings with bearings should run under 1900.00 I can tell you this I have never had to hone the pin bores in a Mahle piston yet and the rest that are mentioned I have to hone which costs 40.00

If you go with Callies rods and a roller cam you should not need a small base circle cam and with a flat tappet cam a 1.130 base circle should work no problem.

On block work I would recomend sonic test first

Clean and mag

Line hone with new hardware

Stroker clearance as needed

Deck to zero ( with the callies rotator you should be right a 9.000 for zero deck.)

Bore and plate hone

Should make for happy engine when your done.

Good luck with your build

Carl Hinkson

Externally balancing means that once you get your rotating kit you have to take it, your damper, and flywheel down to the shop and get them balanced as a set. Then let's say you have a damper or flywheel problem in the future and you then have to dork around finding somebody that can make the new somewhat close to the original.

Modern forged internally balanced cranks are made very close to being balanced with typical rotating parts. I have rarely seen added welded in expensive Mallory metal. They usually end up drilling the counter weight crank throws. further reducing rotating mass.

From experience 383 ci with -5 cc valve relief flat top pistons run very well with 64 cc heads when combined with roller cams of 236 or more intake duration. Less than 236 require 70 - 76 cc heads

My original 383 was built with Dart 215 factory ported heads. So they were actually 221 cc with 2.08/1.625 valves and just over 300 cfm intake flow

With regard to the 6.0" vs 5.7" rods, here is why I avoid 6.0":

"Longer rods move the wristpin closer to the ring package. In tight situations, the wristpin overlaps the oil ring, requiring a support rail. This reduced compression height also creates less piston stability at higher engine speeds because of a shorter piston skirt length."

Now I ask why everyone is so obsessed with Callies? Surely other brands offer great quality for less, right? And I can't seem to find Callies rotating kits on major performance sites. Suggestions for that?

You are asking some pretty basic questions, I suggest you get "Engine Bueprinting" or "Building big inch chevy small blocks" that will educate you on some basics.

If you have been reading David Vizzards book, throw it in the garbage.

Somebody already posted a vendor www.flatlanderracing.com and look under rotating kits in the left hand pane.