OUTSTANDING PHOTOS! Thank you!!

BC

This is a great thread
 

I have an 03 Z06 and unfortunately , it has the same fuel system arrangement...they were changed in the middle of 03. I am hoping it
is the same procedure as I fear my pump is going...I get a high pitched
whining noise from behind the seat after driving on long trips over 50+
miles. I also am experiencing hard starting after the car sits for a while.
it cranks over a few times before it catches.

Here are another series of photos with a lot of detail of the pump assembly itself. I don't recall where I pulled them from so I can't give proper credit to whomever shot the photos and added the annotations but I think they are very helpful.

Attachment 48150799

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Attachment 48150806

Thanks for the detailed photos...they will help greatly.I guess I am most unclear how to
manipulate the the tab ring to allow disconnecting the crossover tube.

It helps if you visualize that black locking ring as a flat (plastic) washer with a slit in it. On the backside of the lock there is one tab that prevents one of the three locking fingers of the crossover tube from moving to the unlocked position (counterclockwise about 1/8 turn). If you pull that plastic tab back it allows the crossover tube connection to rotate. Because the ring has a split you should be able to pull it off and get it out of the way completely.

Did that make sense? Wish I had a better photo of that ring!

Attachment 48150786

Motorhead, you have become an instant legend:D

I knew there was a good reason to sign up on the forum:thumbs:



All I need is a garage and to get back home and start wrenching.

:rofl: - Thanks. I still hate doing these...even with what I've learned over the years they are still a royal P.I.T.A.!

:flag:

subscribed
Thank you for the write up!

Glad it helped....there are as many or more photos in this thread from other folks as there are ones that I snapped. Thanks to everyone who contributed to help make this job a little less of a mystery. :thumbs:

Upgrading Fuel Pump on 2011 GS A6 Vert
 

Motorhead,

Thank you for these and your many other detailed and informative posts. With all of the support from and you an this forum I gathered the courage to perform a self install of the Edlebrock 1590 on my 2011 GS A6 Vert a few weeks ago. Install went flawlessly and I love the results. To go after the additional horses I picked up the 1591 pulley and the ZO6 fuel pump and am getting ready to upgrade the fuel tank. Do you by chance know if your instructions will work the same for the A6? Or is there a possibility that I will need to drop the mufflers and drive line as is outlined in GM's service guideline? Out of curiosity I called the dealership and they quoted me 11 hours to do the job. If possible I'd like to do this myself but I certainly don't have your experience and I'm not sure I want to drop the drive line.

Getting through pinning the crank on my install was tough enough! Any thoughts or advice is much appreciated. :thumbs:

If you pinned the crank by dropping the steering rack you did it the hard way! Somewhere along the way I posted up my experience of using the alternate method which is MUCH easier than pulling the steering. In a nutshell, while you have the intake manifold off you simply loosen the 4 large nuts that hold the entire engine cradle and then you remove the two lower motor mount bolts. Next you simply jack the motor up and it will give you the necessary access to the crank bolt/pulley. This is a much easier way to do it and a lot less messy. The significance of the photo below is that you can see that there is enough clearance to pin the crank with the steering rack still installed.

Attachment 48148236

OK, now for the question you really asked. I have never pulled a tank on an auto trans C6. The challenge to this job is there is not a whole lot of clearance with the MN6. With the A6, the clearance is even tighter. I think it will boil down to how skinny your arm is and how much patience you have. I say jack the car up and see if you can reach up there and get a good grasp on that coupler. If you can, then it's probably within your ability to do it without dropping the rear. The procedure is the same with either the A6 or MN6...just less clearance with the A6. There are guys who have chimed in on this forum who claim to have done it more than once so I think it's do-able...just no one has given me the opportunity to try it yet. :D

Good Luck! :thumbs:

Thanks for the advice Motorhead. I'll report back on the results of my experience with the AT6 fuel pump upgrade.

crank pinning
 

Yet another piece of invaluable information
Thank you again!
Chris

I hope thats closer to 16" because thats almost max on my stands.
I realize the more room you have the better but what do you think the min height is?(this is probably where you say 24")
I'm getting my car ready today while my daughter sleeps so I can do the pump tomorrow. Do I need to buy larger stands for tomorrow?

I too share the same concern as that of member 383. My jackstands won't go to 24" and even if the did; I think I would bottom the front bumper out on my GS by jacking the rear so high.

I wasn't planning to lift the entire vehicle. Only the rear. Unless it is absolutely required that is.

Harbor freight-- $40 = 24"
http://i808.photobucket.com/albums/z...303_170728.jpg
I did jack the front up also, seems safer/easier to work under.

You'll be fine. I've pulled the tanks and my jack stands are 16". Most floor jacks can't lift 24" anyway.

[QUOTE=Motorhead-47;1578691141]
Attachment 48148207QUOTE]

Where do I buy the lines your/someones hand is on I just broke them off at the crossover tube?

http://www.partstaxi.com/parts/2007/...iagram=CF05460

Item #9.

BJK

Thank you sir for the fast response!
$60 for that stupid thing, anyone doing this keep in mind that sucker breaks real easy and costs $70 shipped and puts a halt to your work.