Rocking Seat Solution: The Permanent fix
 

Those of you with power seats may have noticed that they slide back and forth upon braking and acceleration. This I due to the OEM rubber spacers disintegrating after repeated use. The Nylon inserts I’m offering will replace the failed rubber spacer restoring a solid feel to your power seats.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c2...k_interior.jpg

Okay, following the install procedure posted by "k0ts" I managed to fix my seats.

Link: http://www.lieblweb.com/c5seatfix.html

Tools I used:

- 5/8" socket (to remove seat mounting nuts)
- Torx 20, 25 and 40 screwdrivers
- PB blaster or similar
- Vice Grip Pliers
- Needle nose pliers
- Heavy duty grease cleaner (lava, fast orange or similar soap will work too)
- Flat exacto knife and wire brush (to clean up the melted rubber where the new spacers will go


To order go here:
Seat Spacers

Special thanks to Frank’s Vettes for providing the prototype materials for production. If you’re in the Spring/Houston area, Frank’s Vettes can install these spacers for you if you feel the installation is beyond your ability or time limits.

And the estimated time to do 2 seats is ?

___ Hours

___ Days

___ Weeks

___ Years

:smash:

I did mine in four hours including removing and reinstalling the seats...

Rats, I've dealt with the rocking so long I no longer noticed it. Now I'll be fixated on it and may have to repair it; Or maybe I'll just forget about it again. :willy:

Maybe I'm missing something, however $25 for 8 nylon washers? Or are there other materials/parts as part of the package? If your spacers are different than the modded 0.30/each nylon washers outlined in Lieblweb's Rocking Seat Fix, please post pics to help me understand what you are offering. Thanks!

I thought I was kind of prepping myself for the front porch...



(someday) when I'm old and gray.

:rofl: :rofl:

Tim

The nylon washers in the link are round and 0.125" thick. These will require sanding to get them to fit and are quite a pain to get to sit in just the right spot to re-insert the threaded adjuster rod.

The spacers i'm offering are rectangular designed specifically to fit the seat track and are already sanded to the proper thickness. saves about 1-2 hours of boring and messy sanding work.

Any pics?

Here's an 8-pc set:

http://i606.photobucket.com/albums/t...s/IMG_1196.jpg

Well, ok then. That makes a bit of sense but still.:ack:

the idea is that in order to replicate these, a user would need to find and purchase an entire nylon sheet, then have each piece laser-cut, sanded and edges smoothed. This costs significantly more time and money than purchasing one of my sets.

Bookmarking this,,,my FRC needs it!! Another round tuit deposited:D!!!:thumbs::thumbs::cheers:

It's a good idea so these are guaranteed as plug and play correct? All measured to fit tightly with no additional sanding, prepping, etc. with exception to adding the grease? :bigears

My concern is that by using the nylon washers, by sanding them down, you gradually get to the point where there is absolutely no movement. If these spacers are not precisely as tight, that's what causes the rocking seat.

The spacers themselves are laser cut to a tolerance of 0.005" The thickness is hand sanded to a tolerance of roughly 0.010 using a specialized sanding jig I built.

With the old rubber washers (which were roughtly 0.125" thick to start) the seat could move as much as 1/4" forward or backward. With thee new nylon washers this movement is reduced to near zero by filling the gap where the rubber washers used to be.

What you are buying for $25
 

What is being sold here is a Service not the raw material.
Everyone will have to make up thier own mind if they want to screw
around with to thick round washers to make them fit in a square hole
or pay $25 for the service. Does not sound like a bad deal to me
if you need them considering $100+ for a front plate bracket.

Correct. These make the installation easier and take less time.

FWIW, I bought a similar kit from another supplier. The other kit also included a curved Torx driver, to provide easier access to one of the screws, but cost a lot more money. Secondly, the other supplier rather foolishly, doesn't offer one kit with just the nylon parts, at a lesser cost, so you have to buy two complete kits.

Bottom line, the total time for me to do both seats (4 tracks) was about 2.5-3 hours. Naturally, doing the first track was a "learning experience", and took about 50% of the total time. After getting a handle on it, I blew right through the other 3 tracks. However, it was well worth the effort, as both seats are now solid as a rock.


Just an FYI, for those doing the job....before you remove the seats, make sure to move them to their highest position, before disconnecting the electrical plugs. You'll need the clearance between the seat and the seat track, to get at one of the screws. Also, on the coupes, pull off the roof, and also lift the steering wheel to its highest position.

It sort of makes you wonder what GM engineers were thinking when they installed those crappy little rubber washers. I've seen pics of those items removed and they literally crumble. I've still got less than 10,000 butt miles and my driver seat is starting to move.

I agree the cost justification of this product is the service performed to pre-engineer the spacers and the time saved during installation.

Do you need any special tricks to get the spacers in place? How much play, if any, should there be after the spacers are installed? I would assume very little since the fix is for no movement.

See leadfoot4's post above for a few tips and tricks.

There should be virtually no play in the track when the spacers are installed.