Originally Posted by ZHZ-416ci (Post 1589394838)

I tried to get these sleeves out but I think it's impossible
Any suggestions?!

Originally Posted by doje (Post 1589396242)

You just need to use needle nose and pinch it closed a tiny bit at a time. It takes lots of TIME and PATIENCE.

Originally Posted by ZHZ-416ci (Post 1589397193)

Should I take of all th 4 bolts out?
I think I missed it up :( didn't get any one out

Originally Posted by racerxr (Post 1581203521)

Gentleman don't be scared you don't need a fuse box. you will need to removed the box in the car put it on a bench. The problem is that GM bent a .030 copper wire almost 90 degrees in order to get it to where it needed to be You will have to un- swedge the 4 bolts that run through the fuse box and remove all the fuses and relays. just take a picture or make a chart and even if you don't no biggie the relays will only go in one way and the fuse amperage and location are inside of the cover or in your owners manual. The un-swedging of the captive part of the bolts is the hardest part. I'm all about things being perfect but unless t you can get your hands on 4 more of these bolts this part won't be perfect. I took a pair if vise grips and caught the edge with the first groove in the Jaws and adjusted them so it stopp before destrying everything. just work your way around and when your close they will slip through with a little force. them tips that you are unable to get up against the threads wont hurt anything. Just do it. Once you have it apart its a piece of cake. there is a copper wire .030 in diameter running from the terminal that grounds the relay for the low beams to the terminal in the corner of the C3 purple cover plug. You will see it it is the pink with a white tracer Look carefully at the .030 copper wire running between the two. it has a couple bends in that follow a groove in the plastic. just about half way between there is a bend thats almost 90 degrees. the wire is broken right there. go rip about 10 inches of wire from the garage door opener button on the wall in your garage Most of them use .030 solid copper wire or check the reversing lights they use it to. Or go to home depot and buy the right size . IT MUST BE .030-.031 Remove Carefully loosen the crimp at each of the broken wire in your fuse box so the broken wire can be removed. strip the insulation off the wire you just rip of the wall AFTER YOU ACCURATELY MEASURED IT AND FOUND IT TO BE IDENTICAL TO THE ONE GM PUT IN. and install it in place of the broken one carefully getting it seated in the groove use a small pair of needle nose to recrimp at each end and you are done except for putting it back together. Note I noticed that on the other side I could run another copper wire to the same two terminals so as to give the gound signal two paths to take, just in case it breaks I did this and I suggest you do to. To the guys who bought a new fuse box it will happen again unless they changed the design. When you get the broken wire out you can take a scribe or anything small and pointed to pluck one of the guide corners off on the plastic so the bend is not so severe. that will make it a lifetime repair. when swedging the bolts again just use a small screwdriver to get it way from the bolt. then what I did was I happened to have a cheap set of hole punches for gaskets that had a center hole that fit the bolts real close and the outer tip was tapered so I put a sockey on the head of the bolt so when you hit it with a hammer you don't break any plastic then grab a 3/16 1/4 drive deep socket slide that on the bolt and hit it again "carefully " and that for me it worked out fine and looked pretty good too. This is the final word on the mystery low beam issue. Its only about a six pack worth of work and the parts are free. Im slow as hell and once I accidentaly found the problem after 2 days of looking I was done in two hours but my garage door doesn't work anymore and my girlfriend is pissed.. If you need pictures call or email me. Tom (916) 474-5769
One more thing. I thought I would have to split the inner part of the fuse box because it appeared that the copper wire turned down into the inside of it. It doesn't do that. There is a hole for the tip of the wire to sit into but thats as far as either side of the wire goes. It's a piece of cake Its starting to get dark here in california and Im going to go melt my new nitto NTO5's If you do not have a set of these on your C6 ZO6 you are a fool. they eliminated any wheel hop and you can actually stand on the gas in first and second. It's a night and day difference from the Goodyears as long as you don't mind calling a tow truck if you get a flat

Originally Posted by ron1day

I came across this thread while researching a dealer caused problem with the UBEC (fusebox).

Here is a quick easy fix for the problem, it can be done in less time than it will take to read this post. It can be undone at any time and even a non mechanic can do it. It is much easier than other fixes I have seen in this thread , and the only tools required are a piece of wire, and needle nose pliers. I have had this fix in place for years now and it has worked perfectly. I came across this by experimentation years before the recall was done. Anyway, here it is:

You will need a 6 inch piece of insulated solid core insulated wire about 26 gauge. I used one of the 4 wires from an old land line phone jack.

Step 1: Open the cover to the fusebox

Step 2: Strip about an inch of insulation off of each end of the 6 inch wire

Step 3: Connect each bare end of the wire to the relay pin below the red dots of the image below. Do this by removing the relay and wrapping each end to the base of the relay pins under the shown red dots.

The needle nose pliers make this much easier but in an emergency you can do it by hand.

Step 4: Route the insulated part of the wire between the other relays so you can cleanly close the cover:

Step 5: Close the cover.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...23e2e97d98.jpg


That is it you are done. Now perhaps you want an explanation of what you just did and why it works. If not you are done.

The low beam out/recall problem is caused by a breakage of the wire that comes from the computer that tells the low beam relay to activate.

What I found from experimentation is that the side markers are almost always on whenever the low beams are on. The computer sends a different signal to the relay to activate the side markers. What this modification does is use computers signal for the side markers to control the low beams. Think about it, is there any time when the side markers are on/off when you would not want the low beams on/off ? Maybe when you hit the lock remote button, but that is all I can come up with. Some owners might want to use this as a temporary fix, but for me it has worked perfectly.

Thanks

Originally Posted by owc6 (Post 1592285024)

Granted I'm answering your post from today only, but why the heck won't you just take it it and have the recall done?

Easy peasy.

The hard part is if you have paid for this when your low beams failed (like I have) and want your money back.

Originally Posted by Enterprisehunter (Post 1592285059)

As other have opined, dealers SUCK! They put glue inside your car to hold a piece of paper with your work order number, they do not care for the car, I have many, many mods, no onstar, no GM modem, jumped CAN bus etc etc.

Just dont want to deal with a dealer to do a job I can handle in the time it would take to drive and drop the car, wait, wait some more, wait a little more, and then wait some more.

Did you have the dealer repair yours?

Originally Posted by Enterprisehunter (Post 1592285059)

As other have opined, dealers SUCK! They put glue inside your car to hold a piece of paper with your work order number, they do not care for the car, I have many, many mods, no onstar, no GM modem, jumped CAN bus etc etc.

Just dont want to deal with a dealer to do a job I can handle in the time it would take to drive and drop the car, wait, wait some more, wait a little more, and then wait some more.

Did you have the dealer repair yours?

Originally Posted by owc6 (Post 1592285142)

Not all dealers suck.


Just a few really badly.