No Low Beam Headlights
 

The low beam headlights on my 05 quit working.
The fuses for the left and right lamps are good. I replaced the relay this morning and the low beams are still not working.
Any suggestions?

Not trying to insult you with the obvious, but have you checked the position of the lamp control on the multifunction lever/stalk?

The lamp control has 4 positions. With the engine running (in Park or Neutral, of course), have someone watch the headlights while you cycle thru all the positions.

Yes.

Anyone have a solution for this mysterious low beam issue? I have the exact issue, the low beams work for a while in the morning and then cease to work. High beams and all other signals/fogs work fine.

Mine is an early 2005 and we've had a ton of rain recently and some have suggested that water may be the culprit.

Before I start swapping relays, ballasts or bulbs I wanted to see if anyone had a resolution to this problem.

Thanks!

Are you positive that during the day the daytime running lights aren't taking over? Do you have low beams at night?

Do you have 12V at the bulb?

Do you have the twighlight sentinel option and if so, turn it off, then try the headlamp switch. Trying to remember if we can even turn it off?

I am sure the low beams work.... but only for a while in the morning. Then they go out and will not turn back on until the car has sat for many hours. I have tried all combinations of leaving it on twilight sentinel, always on or twisting stalk back to turn off then forward to turn back on.

Before I start changing bulbs or ballasts I want to be sure of the issue. A friend suggested a faulty fuse but I thought a fuse either works or it doesn't and wouldn't act in a sporadic manner.

Thanks for your replies, I hope I can figure this one out. As my corvette is my daily driver I'm feeling stranded at night. :)

It is possible to have a fuse that looks good and is bad. Swap it out with a known good one. Don't cost anything.

As far as parts replacement, the three areas to check are the relay (which you've done). The multi-function switch on the column and the BCM. You can also check the harness connections and ground connections with a multi-meter and or a test lamp. Since it is both lights my guess is going to be the multi-function switch on the column.

The HID bulbs require much more than that to fire and run...12v is what he should check for at the ballast, then go from there.:thumbs:

I have power to the lights as they work for a few hours in the morning. Then they fail to work regardless of position of the switch (auto or on). I just disconnected the battery for a minute then reconnected the negative terminal.

I think it may be a bad "mini relay" in the underhood fuse block... the one in the front left part of the fuse block. It seems strange that its the only big block type relay that is stamped "siemens" whereas all the others are Delphi. Probably no biggie but what stumps me is that it works then it doesn't and I've always thought relays are either bad or good. Not intermittent.

Thanks for all the responses so far, I hope to resolve this soon.

Chris

You are correct that relays normally either work or don't work however, thats only referring to the electromagnet coil. The switch contacts that the coil provides is where the usual problem is. The contacts slowly give up over time and eventually fail. You can remove the cover of the relay or most relays and manually push on the contacts, if its only 12volts. However, I do not know if the relay in this case is running a higher voltage for the headlamp output or not being they are HIDs.

Well I found from another member that after laying an icepack on the fusebox lid for 15 minutes it worked. Yesterday the lights would not turn back on after the car was driven in the AM. Even if I let the car sit for hours.

It must be getting too hot and shorting out. I'm hoping a replacement fuse block tray will solve the issue.

My temp gun read over 150 on some of the fuses after the car sat for 5 minutes with the hood up.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9dBhydRVq88/TS...s144/photo.JPG

The problem with mine did turn out to be the fuse box/tray. It was replaced and no problems sense.

If its a fusebox then really, its just a bad crimp on a wire lug coming into or out of it.

Source of problem identified
 

Resurrecting an old thread.

The same thing happened to my car last week. Both low beams quit working all of a sudden, but would come back to life in the mornings after the engine had cooled down.

It didn't take long to isolate the problem to an intermittent open circuit somewhere in circuit no. 1970, the white/pink wire that goes from the BCM to pin 86 of the low-beam relay. But was it at a connector, or inside the harness, or what?

It's in the fuse box. To confirm, I removed the fuse/relay box from the car and unplugged the low-beam relay from the box. Then I hooked an ohmmeter to both ends of circuit 1970: pin F-12 of connector C3 (where the big purple-capped harness plugs in on the bottom) and the socket for pin 86 of the low-beam relay, on top.

At room temperature, the circuit had good continuity.

For fun, I placed the whole shebang inside a temperature-controlled test oven at work and set it for 80degC. Sure enough, right around 69degC the resistance took off as the circuit opened up. Then I turned on the cooler and presto, continuity returned after a few minutes.

The source of the problem is a loose connection inside the fuse box backplane itself.

I took a die grinder to the swaged ends of the four sleeves that hold the fuse box together and removed the bottom cover. Inside it's a giant punch-down block. The connector pins engage bare copper wires that are routed around a big plastic grid.

Unfortunately, it's a multi-layer arrangement, and circuit 1970 is not on the outer layer. To get to it you'd have to drill out a bunch of plastic rivets and then (it appears) disconnect the dozens of traces on the outer layer, which is completely impractical.*

So that's where I stopped, but what's happening is that a trace inside the box itself has come undone, and it opens up with thermal expansion. Your options are replacing the box, or rigging up a jumper wire to bypass the whole thing.

*UPDATE: It's not so impractical. The fusebox can be repaired. After unswaging the four sleeves, remove all the fuses and relays and the entire backplane can be removed, revealing the top layer and the broken copper wire. See here for more information.

I would think that the loss of your headlights would be a safety issue and should be reported to https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

I went ahead and filled out the form. Headlights going out all of a sudden is bad news. It sounds like we're all having the same problem, so I'd encourage the other posters with the same issue to fill it out as well.

I just had the same problem with my 2007 Z51 Coupe just a couple of days ago. I did fill out the online form pertaining to the safety concern.

Ok i got this problem too!

Is your problem heat related also?

For a little easier test than was posted, go to an electronics store (maybe even Radio Shack) and buy some 'freeze spray'. This is a common 'tool' in the electronics repair biz.

After the lights have failed, spray some on the mini-relay and see if it comes back to life.

If that doesn't help, try spraying the fuse box in sections and you might be able to narrow it down.

In my experience a solid state relay is more prone to failure than a punch-block connection. But, who knows, maybe GM had a bad run of theses boxes/parts.

Ok, so this morning I went out and presto lights worked. I played for it for a while to get what the "normal" function is of these things. 2 Clicks. When You manually select the side lights a single click and then further on to get the low beam headlights ANOTHER click.

Yesterday when mine failed I heard only a single click. I even quickly tested out whether is was just the relay by swapping out my rear defroster (low risk) mini relay with my low beam one last night and lights did not work nor did I have a 2nd click. This morning, however, 2 clicks when on manual mode and no problems....

It might be the connections below the relay. Anyway it seems to be running for now. I dont know if disconnecting the battery would do any success but I also have that as a variable now as I did it yesterday and NO lights...

We will see tonight what happens. BTW my lights DID turn on automatically (it was still dark this morning, so that rules out the light sensor)

Suggestions? One person on here said to take it to the dealer and have them swap out the fuse box. My only question with that is this is an intermittent problem, how will they believe me???

Found another post that mentioned that it was the cables between the battery and the fuse box AND also the fuse box...

UPDATE: Aparently there is a loose contact point just under the fuse box where the relay attaches for the c6 that can come loose under mini relay 47. I found out that by taking apart the fuse box, one can actually fix this themselves...

I will attempt to take this fuse box apart today, wish me luck...

Is this going to be a difficult job???

Headlamps Malfunction-Low Beam

1.Ignition OFF, disconnect the low beam relay.

2.Ignition ON, verify that a test lamp does not illuminate between the control circuit terminal M3 and ground.
-If the test lamp illuminates, test the control circuit for a short to voltage.

3.Verify that a test lamp illuminates between the B+ circuit terminal K3 and ground.
-If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the B+ circuit for a short to ground or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal and the B+ circuit fuse is open, test the control circuit terminal M3 for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, test or replace the low beam relay.

4.Verify that a test lamp illuminates between the B+ circuit terminal K2 and ground.
-If the test lamp does not illuminate, test the B+ circuit for an open/high resistance.

5.Disconnect the harness connector at the inoperative low beam headlamp.

6.Test for less than 1.0 ohm of resistance between the inoperative low beam headlamp ground circuit terminal B and ground.
-If greater than the specified range, test the ground circuit for an open/high resistance.

7.Connect the harness connector at the inoperative low beam headlamp.

8.Connect a 40A fused jumper wire between the B+ circuit terminal K2 and the control circuit terminal M3. Verify the low beam headlamps are activated.
-If the low beam headlamps do not activate, test the control circuit for an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, test or replace the inoperative low beam headlamp.

9.Connect a test lamp between the B+ circuit terminal K3 and the control circuit terminal M2.

10.Command the low beam headlamps ON and OFF with the headlamp switch. The test lamp should turn ON and OFF when changing between the commanded states.
-If the test lamp is always ON, test the control circuit for a short to ground. If the circuit tests normal, replace the BCM.

-If the test lamp is always OFF, test the control circuit for a short to voltage or an open/high resistance. If the circuit tests normal, replace the BCM.

11.If all circuits test normal, test or replace the low beam relay.

I like the way we have to "command the headlights on with the headlamp switch"...rather than just "turn on the headlights"....funny...we are driving a computer now...one that happens to have an engine...:thumbs:

Ok, lights off AGAIN. It worked all day no problems until I finally got home, check the lights again and no 2nd click. I kept switching the lights on and off just to see if they go away and "poof" finally the really won't even kick on anymore. No more 2nd click sound in the engine bay. I even took the harness off to visualize what was going on under there and still no luck (everything looks fine, no bent connectors)... I guess stealership tomorrow unless if someone has any better ideas???

Internally, the fusebox is a multi-layer punchdown block. Terminals on the bottom are wired to terminals on top by a maze of bare copper wires routed around a plastic grid. The layers are held together by the swaged grommets on the screws and plastic rivets on the edges, all of which have to be drilled out. You cannot reach the inner layers without disconnecting all the wires on the outer layer.

Check for continuity between pin F-12 of connector C3 (where the purple-capped harness plugs in on the bottom) and the socket for pin 86 of the low-beam relay, on top. If there isn't any, you have an open circuit in the fusebox and it needs to be replaced.

Then report the problem to https://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/

One wonders if there is an existing service bulletin that The General may know about already. ALLDATA may have record of a TSB.

I did report the issue to NHSTA.

Safety Complaint filed.

UPDATE: Turned my car in on Monday. They replaced my alternator, drivers side exterior door button and blamed the "light" issue on a body controller module. They replaced that too...


Brought the car home. Got dark, turned on headlights... NOTHING.

Went in again on Tuesday and they called me and told me that they are now going to replaced the Fuse Box. Look out fellow C6 Owners... this is a common problem BTW

After turning my car in again.. I got my fuse box replaced and that fixed the problem!!! Woo hoo!

Is there a TSB for this at all ,,,...??? IM starting to have this and since i work nights and use my car im really not of fan of the dark lol

Just checking in to say that I have the same issue with my '05 C6.... it's in the shop at the moment and they're taking the fusebox apart to check the contacts as mentioned in this and many other posts..... will post back with the results.

This thread might give you some ideas on what to have checked:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-c...eadlights.html

Option 1) Dealership wanted to replace fuse box at a cost of $800 or so. Option 2) Jumpered fuse block connector for $350. I chose $350 option and lights so far are working with no issues.

There were no issues with the relay-I think there are two, one for the low beams and one for the highbeams. BCM-no issues.

Best way I could describe the issue was a possible short after the engine heated up. Low beam would work for 15 minutes or so and stop. High beams worked and used driving lights sometimes to get home at dusk or used during a rain storm.

My lights are having the same issue. The only thing i did not see previously in the thread was - when i hit unlock on my key fob the low beams will turn on, then i start the car and they are gone. High beams work with no issues. Did "unlock" fire everyone's low beams while the car was off? I cant believe this is going to cost around $800 for a new fuse box. Bitter!!!!!!

Sorry I never tried to reset with the key fob. I will tell you I have had one issue since. I was on a long trip heading back home, perhaps a 10+ hour trip. Being stuck in bumper to bumper traffic generated a lot of heat in the engine compartment. By the time I was 10 miles from my house the lights started to go off again. Otherwise no issues by doing the basic "jumpered" aspect.

Maites-

Are you sure it isn't the high beams that are flashing with the fob activation?

not 100% but pretty sure its the lows that activate if I manually hit unlock. I'll double check.

Does anyone have instructions for fuse block replacement? After all the phone calls etc, seems like this is the best route. Getting a brand new fuse block for $327.

Quick update: I ended up calling GM yesterday to discuss this issue. They said if i went and got a diagnostic ($130) at dealer and they decided the part was defective, they would try to help me out even though i am out of warranty. The problem was that GM couldnt specifically tell me if how much they would help or not pending the diagnostic test. So i ended up taking a leap of faith and going to Ourisman Rockmont Chevy to have the test done (keep in mind if the test turned out that the part was not "defective" for any reason, I would then have to pay the 130, and buy the part then decide who would install it pending price). Turns out the part was defective, GM called the dealer and spoke to them about helping me out. What I did not know is that GM does not actually pay or cover anything, it ends up being the dealer. Both the dealer and GM called me back to let me know that they would charge me a flat fee of $200 for the out of warranty repair (typically $800). Although this is a case by case basis, I really have to thank Wayne and the Ourisman dealership for understanding and helping me out. Customer Service there has been great through the process.

At the end of the day, I would call GM if you have the issue and hopefully they can help along with the dealer. It appears GM is really trying to turn the corner on customer service. They called me multiple times to check in and also called the dealer.

Thanks again to GM and Ourismant Rockmont Chevy! Good luck to all with the problem.

no low beams
 

I have just encountered the same failure of low beams. I can not activate low beams with smart switch but can momentarily activate function when the unlock tab of the key fob is depressed. High beams and fog and running lights are all normal as is cruise and turn signals. Does this sound like the fuse box issue?

yep it does. Call GM. They will schedule the diagnostic at your dealer and hopefully help out. good luck

Update on no low beams
 

Dealer condemned the fuse box and replacement on way from Michigan should pick up later today. I do have extended warranty and am now thankful for the investment.

THIS IS A DEFECT WITH THE FUSE BOX! Dealer replaced my box and all is well! Luckily I had an extended warranty. I had a post about this 1 year ago...

I got an '05... 114000 miles.... ask me about ANY problem with this car... been through them ALL!

Low beam issue
 

Gentleman don't be scared you don't need a fuse box. you will need to removed the box in the car put it on a bench. The problem is that GM bent a .030 copper wire almost 90 degrees in order to get it to where it needed to be You will have to un- swedge the 4 bolts that run through the fuse box and remove all the fuses and relays. just take a picture or make a chart and even if you don't no biggie the relays will only go in one way and the fuse amperage and location are inside of the cover or in your owners manual. The un-swedging of the captive part of the bolts is the hardest part. I'm all about things being perfect but unless t you can get your hands on 4 more of these bolts this part won't be perfect. I took a pair if vise grips and caught the edge with the first groove in the Jaws and adjusted them so it stopp before destrying everything. just work your way around and when your close they will slip through with a little force. them tips that you are unable to get up against the threads wont hurt anything. Just do it. Once you have it apart its a piece of cake. there is a copper wire .030 in diameter running from the terminal that grounds the relay for the low beams to the terminal in the corner of the C3 purple cover plug. You will see it it is the pink with a white tracer Look carefully at the .030 copper wire running between the two. it has a couple bends in that follow a groove in the plastic. just about half way between there is a bend thats almost 90 degrees. the wire is broken right there. go rip about 10 inches of wire from the garage door opener button on the wall in your garage Most of them use .030 solid copper wire or check the reversing lights they use it to. Or go to home depot and buy the right size . IT MUST BE .030-.031 Remove Carefully loosen the crimp at each of the broken wire in your fuse box so the broken wire can be removed. strip the insulation off the wire you just rip of the wall AFTER YOU ACCURATELY MEASURED IT AND FOUND IT TO BE IDENTICAL TO THE ONE GM PUT IN. and install it in place of the broken one carefully getting it seated in the groove use a small pair of needle nose to recrimp at each end and you are done except for putting it back together. Note I noticed that on the other side I could run another copper wire to the same two terminals so as to give the gound signal two paths to take, just in case it breaks I did this and I suggest you do to. To the guys who bought a new fuse box it will happen again unless they changed the design. When you get the broken wire out you can take a scribe or anything small and pointed to pluck one of the guide corners off on the plastic so the bend is not so severe. that will make it a lifetime repair. when swedging the bolts again just use a small screwdriver to get it way from the bolt. then what I did was I happened to have a cheap set of hole punches for gaskets that had a center hole that fit the bolts real close and the outer tip was tapered so I put a sockey on the head of the bolt so when you hit it with a hammer you don't break any plastic then grab a 3/16 1/4 drive deep socket slide that on the bolt and hit it again "carefully " and that for me it worked out fine and looked pretty good too. This is the final word on the mystery low beam issue. Its only about a six pack worth of work and the parts are free. Im slow as hell and once I accidentaly found the problem after 2 days of looking I was done in two hours but my garage door doesn't work anymore and my girlfriend is pissed.. If you need pictures call or email me. Tom (916) 474-5769
One more thing. I thought I would have to split the inner part of the fuse box because it appeared that the copper wire turned down into the inside of it. It doesn't do that. There is a hole for the tip of the wire to sit into but thats as far as either side of the wire goes. It's a piece of cake Its starting to get dark here in california and Im going to go melt my new nitto NTO5's If you do not have a set of these on your C6 ZO6 you are a fool. they eliminated any wheel hop and you can actually stand on the gas in first and second. It's a night and day difference from the Goodyears as long as you don't mind calling a tow truck if you get a flat

I want to thank racerxr for this contribution. Based on his post, I went out to my parts bin and re-examined my old fusebox.

When mine failed a year ago, I took the thing apart like he did, un-swaged the four metal sleeves that hold the thing together, and noted that inside was a multi-layer punchdown block with copper wires routed around a plastic grid.

Unfortunately, the wire to the low-beam relay was not on the bottom layer, and it appeared that a lot of disassembly would be required to reach the upper layer(s), so I called it a day.

I shouldn't have. As racerxr points out - once the four sleeves are out, the backplane is held against the top half of the fusebox case by the fuses and relays themselves.

I just now unplugged everything, and sure enough, the entire backplane fell out the bottom, revealing the top layer and the broken wire of circuit 1970 (low-beam relay).

With the top layer visible, it became apparent why circuit 1970 fails all the time but the other circuits don't. It has the longest straight section of any wire in the box, with a jog in the middle probably intended for strain relief. It appears what happens is that as the fusebox heats up, the plastic grid expands faster than the copper wires do. This puts the long wire in tension, stretching the jog section tightly around the plastic guides, where eventually it fractures.

This looks to be a fairly straightforward repair. I agree that matching the wire gauge is essential, and that removing material from the guide corners would help prevent it happening again.

For the people who got new fuse boxes. Do you know the part number and where I can purchase one the cheapest? I dont really want to spend $800 at the dealer or try to repair this thing myself

i just picked one up from a part out car on here...gm parts has one for around 500...I'll be attempting to replace the box tomorrow.

any updates this guys..... Ive gone through 3 sets of low beams now and im convinced i have this issue i have on 05 as well with 80k on the clock and i dont have 500+ buck lying around ( just an E6 we dont make that much after you go through a divorce lol)

Thanks yall !

Its gonna be the fuse box....real easy to replace. Replaced mine....save some bucks by eating in the chow hall...

Hahaha I live off post lol and the fuse box ... Damn lol $$$ well let's see if I can
Get my extended warranty to cover this ! Thanks guys ! Oh just in case warranty dosnt cover it how much am I lookin at and what kind of install we talking ..? Dealer or weekend in the garage ??

10 minutes in the garage.

I do believe this is another win for the forum thanks guys ! Looks like I'll be on the hunt for a fuse box!

Took me 10 minutes...try searching for a part out car. Gm parts warehouse has them for 500. Move back into the barracks and eat in the chow hall

Since I have an 05 with there be a problem with getting a new Fusebox,... what i mean is I can get a 2008 fuse box for 150$ right now.. is there anything i should be worried about using an 08 with the 05 car...?? thanks

As far as I can tell, the part number is the same for my 05 as it is for an 08 so I'd say you'll probably be fine..... sure someone with more knowledge than me will be along shortly.

I used an 08 on my 06

fusebox
 

It's not going to matter if its an 05 or an 08 eventually it will be lying next to the original one in the bone yard some where. GM has not changed the design. Ive thought about making a video and a kit to permenently repair these boxes but since I fixed mine I don't have one to repair. would anyone be willing to sell me their defective fuse box cheap cheap and send it to me in Sacramento CA. ?? 916-474-5769 cell 916-521-6231
Tom

Hello, dealing with the same thing on a friends 2005,came to fuse box as problem then read post from racerxr i am now going to remove box and see if same repair is needed(i know it is ) and was wondering if racerxr could post or email the pics he has , i will take some pics myself as i repair the broken wire in fuse box

hey,i just got done getting the fuse box apart and sure enough the break in the wire is right where racerxr said it would be! and un swedging those 4 bolts was the hardest part ,but with a little patients it all came apart nice and neat , sure beats paying for a new fuse box. Thanks for posting this info

I'm about to turn 105K miles and starting to have a few:
Low beam HID's intermit inop
Steering lock failure
HUD loose
roof rattles
Passenger door lock
Visor vanity mirrors toast
clutch bleed
etc.....

So I just plugged an 08 into my 06 and the damn thing won't start. I swapped around fuses and checked everything but it wouldn't work. I put the old one back in and it cranked right up. Any thoughts?

Make sure that fuel pump relay is plugged in the right way, it looks like it will go in either way causing the 30 circuit to be reversed

how many of those plastic rivits did you have to drill out? All? I got to that point and decided to go home before the midnight oil started to burn.

Thanks for the heads up, but the won't even turn over? Any more thoughts?

I took mine apart by squeezing/pinching the flange area up against the stud with a pair of pliers, then tapping the stud through the board with a hammer and punch. I have the same intermittent problem and could not see any physical damage/breakage in these copper wires. Next is to go deeper and remove the top layer. For now I believe it could be the BCM

I know this post is a little old but I want to thank RacerX and Torquetube for their contributions. I had the same issue with the low beams going out. First, they started to flicker whenever I drove over a bumpy road about a month ago so I suspected a loose connection or something. Then all of a sudden the low beams went out while I was driving. After the car cooled off the lights worked again. I went on the forum and saw your posts. I didn't have time to disassemble the fuse box to make the repair as you noted but I just bought a new box and installed it. Although I realize that since GM probably did not change the design, I figured since mine has lasted 130,000 miles it wont need to be fixed again anytime soon. I did notice that the new fuse block has a different mini relay installed in slot #47. The new relay is #8385 and the old one was 3606.

Same here guys, I followed this thread to the tee and fix my 105k mile C6 headlamp nightmare. A tip to all, you need to actually pry up on the wire to reveal the break.

This problem is a driving hazard and should be on the recall list!
 

I'm very thankful that there is so much information on this issue, I was wrecking my brain for hours trying to figure out what went wrong with my low-beams before I took to the forums.

I'm going to work on my fuse box right after the holidays, but wanted to ask if anyone had tried to get this problem repaired by the dealer for free?

Please let me know if anyone had any luck with this problem, other than taking apart or paying for a replacement fuse box...

:lurk:

One light out
 

I just have one light out, do you think that this procedure will fix this problem?

:lurk:

IMHO a Dealer "repair" of this problem, if they could figure it out, would most likely be just a fuse box replacement.

No, try swapping the bulbs right to left to determine whether you have a ballast or bulb failure first.

I thought you had to remove the housing to swap the bulb.

Fender liner access flap, try not to kill the clips

Contacting GM???
 

I have been pretty much been avoiding night time driving, as I have not had time to go out and get a new fuse box installed.

Has anyone contacted General Motors directly? This is definitely a hazard and should be on their recall list, at least the should have a TSB...

My car only has 45K miles on it, sadly even at this low mileage I have the infamous low beam problem.

I'm in the same boat...no low beams.

Dealership said everything in the fuse box was fine and they would have to remove the front bumper and fenders to get the headlights out to try those. Worst case scenario, replace both ballasts...Parts and Labor to the tune of $1065.

I'll hand it back over to them tomorrow to take apart. I'll keep this thread posted. I almost wish it was as simple as a fuse box for me.

Hi everyone!

I have had a low beam problem on my car since I bought it. Dealer tried to fix it before shipping it to me (by replacing a relay) and that did of course not work. After much back and forth arguing who's paying for what I decided to fix it myself.

First, a huuuuuge thank you to racerxr (Tom) here on the forum. Thanks for locating the problem and figuring out how to fix it as well as providing excellent descriptions and pictures via email! The wire was broken in EXACTLY the spot that you pointed out!

Yesterday me and my awesome girlfriend set out to fix the fuse box! We ended up following Tom's instructions for the most part with a few modifications. I have written a short step-by-step guide for how we fixed the problem. This is to further clarify how this CAN be done (this is by NO means the perfect solution) to those who are still wondering to fix it yourself or not. It was a pretty straight forward job, and absolutely well worth 1000 $ ;)

Take the fuse box out of the car. Very simple:
1. Disconnect the battery and the power cable that connects to the fuse box
2. Press the plastic clips that attaches the main part of the fuse box and pop it out
3. Unscrew the four metal bolts and knock on them so that each of the four blocks fall out
4. You're DONE

Disassemble the fuse box
1. Pull out all fuses and relays
2. Use a needle nose plier and un-swedge the metal sleeves that hold the two layers together.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-T...2017.45.17.jpg
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3...2017.45.28.jpg

3. When un-swedged enoug, knock the bolts through the box so that it can be disassembled. I messed up the bolts so badly (bad needle nose pliers) during the un-swedging that I decided to cut the metal sleeves surrounding the bolts (see picture) so that they don't interfere. The sleeves are not needed as their only purpose is to keep you from opening the fusebox. When the box is in the car, it is held in place by the four bolts and the four block modules.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-m...2019.32.40.jpg

Replacing the broken wire
1. Get some 20 gauge copper wire. I bought some at Homedepot for 7 $
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-r...2020.46.02.jpg

2. Find the broken broken wire and remove it. When you manage to open the fusebox, the broken wire is on the other side.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Z...2019.53.18.jpg

Very bad conductivity.
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-7...2020.04.01.jpg

3. Replace the wire. As Tom suggested, I added a backup wire on the other side as well. So in case the wire breaks again there is a backup on the other side. I also removed some of the plastic guiding with a razor so that the copper wire can have nicer bends.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-q...2023.06.31.jpg

Backup wire on the back side
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-2...2013.42.58.jpg

Put everything back together and drive after dark!
When putting the fusebox back together, simply align the four block modules and place the box on top of them (without the bolts in place). Then see through the bolt holes so that you make sure that they are sentered. Enter the bolts and screw in place each of the modules till each bolt is tightened. Check visually afterwards if all the blocks are in place.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-h...2016.09.52.jpg

edit: Link to the picasa album: https://picasaweb.google.com/1062290...FixCorvetteC6#

Thanks Tom!

This is what I'm talking about!

Thank you for putting up this simple write-up and fix, and most definitely thank you to Tom for being the Grand Daddy of this fix!

This makes life easier!

If you ever get a problem with your oil sending unit, please make sure to do the same kind of write up! :)

No problem :)

I feel that I have been wanting this kind of write-up myself, so the least I could do was to make one when I was fixing the problem.

I think it's especially important to have good guides on problems like this. More or less all Corvettes will eventually encounter this problem (mine has only 54k miles on it) and I think it is a shame that people might end up paying 1000 $ + to fix (and that's a temporary fix!) the problem at a workshop.

I went to the workshop to hear how much it would cost. 165 $ for diagnostic (which I have to have them run), 510 $ for a fuse box + work. That will be around 1000 $ IF they find the problem on the first attempt...

A BIG thank you to all the contributors!

I was just about to order new bulbs when I thought I should check CF. Sure enough I'm not alone! Both lights just started to go yesterday. Tonight they worked, so I know it's just a matter of time.

I've got an '05 with 69K miles.

Questions:
Should I quit running my headlights during the day (after this fix)?
Also, what does "un-swedge" mean, or is that self-explanatory once I get a look at the bolts?

Not sure why you would not run the headlights during the day after the fix. After the fix everything works like it should. I have them on auto all the time :thumbs:

About the un-swedging, I really don't know what it means either, since I'm not a native English speaker I just re-used the word that was used on earlier occasions :D

You'll see when you open the fuse box. There's a metal sleeve that runs through the box that keeps it from opening. The bolt is inside this metal sleeve. To get the bolts (and the sleeve) out you need to take a plier and bend the metal edge/fold (on the side of the box where the threads for the bolt are) so that you are able to knock the sleeve and the bolt through the plastic hole. Kind of hard to explain but everything makes sense when you have the box in front of you :)

I have close to 48,000 miles now on 2005 Corvette ordered from factory. I have not experienced this problem. When I am in my own garage which is pitch black I make sure headlights do not come on because as soon as I pull out into the street the lights will turn off so I stopped the low beams from going on and off on a regular basis. I don't know if this helps or prevents a problem like this. Maybe less usage = longer life less problems?:lurk:

Awesome! Thanks for the clear explanation!

Mine is doing the same thing. Untill I can acquire a new fuse block, I just ran a jumper wire from the ground on the parking light relay to the ground on the low beam relay.

The lights come on with the parking lights now.

Once I get a doner fuse block I will disect it and see if I can correct the ground wire going the the low beam relay.

2. Press the plastic clips that attaches the main part of the fuse box and pop it out

I'm not sure what this means. I did step #1: battery disconnected. I pulled on the 4 clips and unseated it from housing, and now I don't know what to do next. I don't know how to "pop out" the base of the fuse box that has the pink grey and black sections.

Nevermind. I figured it out. You have to loosen the bolts as much as you can, then tap on them. That will force the colored boxes to fall free from the base.

So THIS stuff worked. I got 25 feet of it for $4 from Frys.

Took me 3 hours total. The de-swedging was easy. All I did was crimp up the lip. It was laying down the wiring that took the most time. And I did lay a back-up down. Once that was done, it only took about 15min to put it back together.

Again, thanks for all the instructions and advice!

So 3 weeks ago it was a leaky brake line. Last weekend it was a cracked radiator. What's up for next weekend?! Hopefully the Vette will give me a break :hide:

Three hours isn't that bad.
I am going to give it a try next weekend.

:iagree:

Sure that is true, But if you are diving deep into this problem, you must do it with a multi-meter.
Testing each related fuse should be at the top of the troubleshooting list.

My first goal when troubleshooting this was to get headlights working.
Once I have a fix which would allow me to drive in the dark, then I needed to find what was bad.

From testing the circuits, I found that the ground on my headlight relay was bad.
I pulled the block off, but I didn't see and easy/quick fix.

SenseofTouch did an excellent job of descibing the problem and fix.
So now I personally am more comfortable pulling my fuse block apart to fix it.
My 20 guage wire is on order as we speak.

I wish GM would have made the block a bit easier to come apart.

Low Beams
 

Well senseoftouch you beat me to it. Thats a good thing though I have a lot on my plate right now. Is anyone a Family Law Attorney? If I could clarify one thing, this is a situation where G.M. just didn't get it right, but everytime I stand on the gas on a nice cool day I forgive them. This is an easy and permament repair and with the installation of the second back up wire on the other side and removing the tiny plastic guides so there is no longer a 90 degree bend, you will never experience it again. Thanks for showing the roll of Bell wire at Home Depot. Many of the questions I recieved were "What is Bell wire?" Its just what they call SOLID copper wire of that size. I think it came from the fact that its the type of wire that they would run from the Door "Bell" Button on your front porch to the Door "Bells" somewhere in a closet in your house. They also use it for garage door openers but you need to make sure it is 20 gauge or .030-.031 in diameter. They also sell 22 gauge that is not what you want it will be around .025. Like senseoftouch said everything becomes very clear once you get into it. I also want to point out that NOTHING falls out on the floor when you turn it over and you cannot put the relays in wrong they will not fit any other way than the right way and the fuse size and location is on the cover and in your owners manual or you could just take a picture. Be well my friends and make sure you keep an eye on your bank records if your wife is doing your banking. Tom

You're right Racerxr. Bell wire is copper wire that isn't tinned. Usually you don't need to solder wire to a door bell. I believe you just wrap it around a screw. And you'll notice the color of the wire is copper. They also sell tinned copper wire, and the color is silver. Tinned copper wire is for soldering as the tinning makes it easier to solder. Either one will work. Tinned copper wire tends to be cheaper and easier to find. I'm using tinned copper wire and there's no degradation in conductivity or performance.

And yeah, I hear you Racerxr, I got lucky...we had separate bank accounts and hadn't gotten around to merging them. Good luck and remember, from here on out "it's just business".

I bought 20 guage pure copper jewelery wire.
It might turn my fuse block green (Not really), but it will do the job.

I just knocked mine out in about and hour and a half.
It looked like I had some moisture in there.
I ended up replacing several wires, just because they looked like they were going next.
Everything is all pretty and sparkly clean now.