Hi Guys,
Just a few thouhts from the Meziere gang. The stock pump definitely will move more water than an electric pump at higher RPMs. It will also demand 15-20 horsepower to do it. our advertised rate of 55 GPM is a free flow rate (zero restriction and open inlet) as is the convention for electric water pumps...check any of the manufacturers. We try very hard to give accurate, non-inflated numbers for our products and let the consumers decide if it is a fit for their application. I know through a typical system our pumps will move about 22 GPM so the above mentioned numbers are in the ball park. For over ten years we have been producing pumps for the street performance market and have stood behind them with a 2 year warranty. There are very few coming back for warranty service and I just received one that was 7 years old with 115,000 miles on it this week. By the way, that was off of a supercharged Ford daily driver. We have successfully cooled up to 600 HP oval track cars - but everything has to be right! Our 42 GPM pumps are being used in a spec series using LS engines (I think they are around 400HP).

I already have the cooler, but I need to run the engine to circulate the fluid. I thought you might have another method. I like to have the trans temp around 175-180 and the coolant about the same. It takes about 10-15 minutes in the lanes after a run to cool that much with the stock water pump when ambiant is 60-70 degrees.

I'm thinking if I need to cool the trans and can get the engine temps down at the same time with the stock pump, that an electric is useless unless some non-supplier can show before and after dyno results that prove 10 HP or more.

...but wait...there's more
Concerning the "Conservation of energy", katech is also right - they don't "make" horsepower. If your engine has a mechanical pump, that pump will demand 14-20 horsepower at 6500 RPMs to drive the water. If your engine is making 1500 HP (turbo applications and extreme boost pressures) you might need that flow rate and additional block pressure. I agree they are not for EVERY situation and we often move our customers to our mechanical pumps for that reason. But the electric motor takes 1/4 HP versus the 14 HP given to the mechanical pump. It has proven itself in some very demanding situations and we stand by our claim that, for the vast majority of street performance vehicles you will be happy with the results.

Don... I daily drive mine, the pump works great at the track for cooling on the return track and pulling to the burnout, once the burnout is done the temps going up, if i stage slow the pump and my fan settings will bring the temp down to launch at 170- 181, the temp will rise during the run, on the street its fine if i keep the rpm under 2000, if im on the interstate at 70mph+ the temp will rise to 190s because of my 373 gears the rpm will be 3000+ and that where the manual pump is better. it does look good and the extra power is nice, wish you could make it punp faster like a boosta pump:thumbs:

Hey Don, while we have your attention...I believe what Jason is implying is that your EWP will result in such an additional load on the electrical system that any HP savings will be reused (required) to drive the alternator (and the idler pulley). Is this even possible? Where do you get your 1/4 hp figure, is this the additional load on the alternator and/or what's required to drive the idler?

Cheers, Paul.

Happy to help. The motor is about 1/4 HP at 12 volts. It requires about 12 amps to run and is independent of engine RPM. That is, at 2000 or 8000 RPM it still requires 12 amps. A mechanical pump will require less than 1 horsepower at idle but at 6000-8000 RPM the load will be quite substantial. One of the original electric WP companies used to claim 20 horsepower. Our back-to-back testing usually nets 11-14 for V8 applications at 6000 RPM. The HP requirement for the idler will vary according to the engine RPM but if you're not driving the impeller and only have the drag of the bearings the loss is MUCH less. Furthermore, when running a stock type pump in an RPM range it was not designed for it can get very inefficient - result can be cavitation. We've seen this in a number of off-road, Baja 1000 style vehicles. Moving them to our LS mechanical with a swept vane impeller design has proven to be a good solution.

Thanks Don...so what you're saying is the engine is not going to use up whatever HP is saved turning the MWP to drive the alternator because it needs to produce an additional 12A for EWP. And the idler pulley also ain't gunna eat up any measurable HP, so the net result is approximately 14 more hp.

Cheers, Paul.

That's correct. Back in the initial development days, the pump was tested on a chassi dyno first with a mechanical, then to the electric and back to the mechanical. I blieve that was 12 HP.

Thanks for your comments and explanations, Don. It looks like I'll ask Santa for one of your EWP's for my street-only C6 after all.

Saved me the typing, thanks. :thumbs:

It saves drag racers HP as the can "turn off" the alternator for the run, so the pump is just running off the battery, and as said they can then run just the pump between runs to cool the engine.

Guess I just assumed everyone was talking about a Meziere when the costs were mentioned.
And, even though I did install the EWP, I've never thrown a belt in over 2 years and 20k miles.

I ran a meziere for two years, zero issues, zero problems..car never got over 180 even with 100+ outside temps.Bumper to bumper no issues, city traffic no issues.

I guess the "Law of Conservation of Energy" would have more bearing on this particular situation IF both pumps pushed the same amount of coolant at 6500 rpm.

Cheers, Paul.

:iagree: Although, so far no one has come forward with the comparitive dyno charts to show where any HP gains exist on an LS motor. I'd even prefer 1/4 mile timeslips (DA corrected, of course) from a regular and consistant racer who switched to an EWP as the only change.

There's just not a lot of incentive to spend $ based on advertising claims. CAI claims of HP gains are a great example.

Chevy High Performance magazine August '07 "Dyno Proven Bolt Ons"
HCI (Imports...not a direct corrrelation but 12 HP!) June '06
Muscle Mustangs approx November '06 "Pump the Power"

I'm sure we've done more articles since but haven't kept track of them...

everyone always asks, i have seen 2 in the last couple weeks, how about a complete in detail instructions on how to wire it into the c6, specifically the fuel pump wire in the fuse box:yesnod:

Zip Products offers the plug and play system for just under $80 They have instructions on their site: zip-corvette.com

yes that's what i have, but you should have it for your pump c6 specific without it, i put mine in and a few of my friends did theirs, all had problems with the installation of the plug and play, my tuner told me that piggybacking the clips in the fuse box could cause problems it does stretch the clips 2 in 1 its not a real piggyback, so instructions without would be easier and people can choose, i remember buying your pump and waiting months for the zip product, as you can see fartpipe and c6batmobile have both asked in the last 2 weeks

See also Vette 2008-"High Volts, Low Temps." This article includes installation instructions including the Zip product. It also includes a dyno before and after graph.

Can I install the Mezire EWP with the same belt I have now?

NOTE: I have a SLP 25% underdrive Pulley.