Just repaired AC/Vent/Defrost Switch but no heat?
Hi All,
Thanks for the help on the replacement of all of the vacuum lines so that everything is working as original. Everything on that panel is working but I am not getting heat. When I had the dash apart the cable did move the flap at the heater core and I put my hand in and felt it. I just had the engine running to 180 and all heater hoses are hot even the in and out from the heater core but when I move the bottom lever over to the heat side the cold air stops but I only am getting outside air temp coming through the lower duct or the defroster. It is not hot air. If I move it to blue or cold the a/c does come on. I can hear the flap working when I move the lower lever. There are no leaks from the heater core. I know that I don't need heat now but I want it working correctly. Thanks Jack Miller 1977 C3 |
Let me get this right.
You have hot coolant flowing through the heater core. When moving the hot-cold lever the door does go to hot position. But with your fan on NO hot air is coming out any of your ducts ? |
Try turning your [add-on] heater shut-off valve to ON. (just a thought)
The other possibility is that the heater core is totally plugged up so that no water is flowing through it. Feel the heater inlet pipes on the firewall to see if hot water is even getting to the core. |
On the 77 there is a vacuum valve mounted on top of the heater box. Did you check that valve for function? It supplys vac. to the heater control valve in the engine compartment, to open or close
|
Originally Posted by ...Roger...
(Post 1575002017)
Let me get this right.
You have hot coolant flowing through the heater core. When moving the hot-cold lever the door does go to hot position. But with your fan on NO hot air is coming out any of your ducts ? Jack |
Originally Posted by Artsvette73
(Post 1575002624)
On the 77 there is a vacuum valve mounted on top of the heater box. Did you check that valve for function? It supplys vac. to the heater control valve in the engine compartment, to open or close
I have a new hose on that too and it was working before I put the dash back on. Jack |
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
(Post 1575002515)
Try turning your [add-on] heater shut-off valve to ON. (just a thought)
The other possibility is that the heater core is totally plugged up so that no water is flowing through it. Feel the heater inlet pipes on the firewall to see if hot water is even getting to the core. Jack |
Achem's Razor...whenever there is a cunundrum, the answer is usually the simplest explanation. You 'obviously' have a mouse nest built in the heater housing and the nest material is blocking the heat. :leaving:
|
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
(Post 1575004985)
Achem's Razor...whenever there is a cunundrum, the answer is usually the simplest explanation. You 'obviously' have a mouse nest built in the heater housing and the nest material is blocking the heat. :leaving:
Jack |
If I move it to blue or cold the a/c does come on. I can hear the flap working when I move the lower lever. the only thing that is attached to the temp selector is a solid adjustable cable that goes to the heatercore vacuum switch on the top of the air box. also are you getting any air moving at all can you hear your blower motor even running? |
I've got the dash out of my 77 right now working on the air flow and vacuum issues. looking it over I don't see how its possible for the air to not be coming out some where. with the diverter gates all in the neutral position the air will come out the floor vents (heat). The temp selector (bottom slider) will control the temp, hot or cold.
ellk,10 there is a diverter door attached to the temp selector cable but it also actuates the vacuum switch. can you hear the blower running? Just went back and read your first post, you are getting air flow just not hot air. Can you get pics of were the heater hoses are connected for us to see? Looking over the stuff I have apart on my car the air has to flow either over the heater core or around it with the operation of the temp door. With you verifying the operation of the temp door the air has to be flowing through the heater core. Neal :thumbs: |
If I read your problem correctly, you stated that you are not getting "heat". You didn't indicate that you weren't getting any airflow. If no flow, your air inlet damper/door (under the right-side cowl) is probably not opening. That would prevent any fresh air from entering the system. Put your control to "Max A/C" and see if you get air from those ducts...that is 'recirulated' air from inside the cabin.
|
Originally Posted by elke_10
(Post 1575006565)
what is this flap your hearing when you move the temp selctor from hot-cold.
the only thing that is attached to the temp selector is a solid adjustable cable that goes to the heatercore vacuum switch on the top of the air box. also are you getting any air moving at all can you hear your blower motor even running? Thanks Jack |
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
(Post 1575009227)
If I read your problem correctly, you stated that you are not getting "heat". You didn't indicate that you weren't getting any airflow. If no flow, your air inlet damper/door (under the right-side cowl) is probably not opening. That would prevent any fresh air from entering the system. Put your control to "Max A/C" and see if you get air from those ducts...that is 'recirulated' air from inside the cabin.
When I move the bottom lever to red (or hot) I am not getting heat out of the defroster of lower ducts as I am supposed to. Yes, the door opens and closes when I move the lower lever. I had a brand new 74, 76 & 77 back in the day when I went into a dealer and ordered what I wanted so I know how these are supposed to work. I just need help repairing it. Thanks Jack 77 C3 |
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
(Post 1575009227)
If I read your problem correctly, you stated that you are not getting "heat". You didn't indicate that you weren't getting any airflow. If no flow, your air inlet damper/door (under the right-side cowl) is probably not opening. That would prevent any fresh air from entering the system. Put your control to "Max A/C" and see if you get air from those ducts...that is 'recirulated' air from inside the cabin.
Thanks but I know how it is supposed to work and it works correctly, the air speed switch works on every stop too but when I move the lower slide to red or heat I should get hot air from the defroster, a/c vent, or lower duct when I move that lower lever and I am not. Both in and out water hoses are both hot going to and from my heater core. I also tested every vacuum door with a mighty vac hand held vacuum tool and every one opened and closed as they should a few times each. I have done many cars in my time but this car is different. Before I redid all vacuum hoses I had no air to defroster or center and now I have air coming out from what ever I move the switch to. But no heat, I want it set up for the winter as it will be here before we know it. Thanks Jack 77 C3 |
My 'last gasp' suggestion is to check the [stock] heater shut-off valve and see if it is permanently fixed on OFF. You can use your Mighty-Vac and hook it to the 'signal' line going to that valve. Then put vacuum on it, then open to 'vent' and see if it the heater operates with one of those conditions.
|
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
(Post 1575013629)
My 'last gasp' suggestion is to check the [stock] heater shut-off valve and see if it is permanently fixed on OFF. You can use your Mighty-Vac and hook it to the 'signal' line going to that valve. Then put vacuum on it, then open to 'vent' and see if it the heater operates with one of those conditions.
I checked all of the vacuum valves when the car was cold with the Mighty-vac and they all worked fine. I even moved the lower lever and the heat door opened and closed. I am really stumped. Jack |
The diaphragm on the water shut-off valve may have held vacuum...but how do you know that the valve wasn't stuck in the OFF position. The diaphragm is rubber and would stretch with vacuum, even if the valve didn't move. Only way to know for sure [I think] is to check it for flow when opened [and no-flow when closed].
|
Originally Posted by 7T1vette
(Post 1575019153)
The diaphragm on the water shut-off valve may have held vacuum...but how do you know that the valve wasn't stuck in the OFF position. The diaphragm is rubber and would stretch with vacuum, even if the valve didn't move. Only way to know for sure [I think] is to check it for flow when opened [and no-flow when closed].
Thanks Jack |
Originally Posted by elke_10
(Post 1575006565)
what is this flap your hearing when you move the temp selctor from hot-cold.
the only thing that is attached to the temp selector is a solid adjustable cable that goes to the heatercore vacuum switch on the top of the air box. also are you getting any air moving at all can you hear your blower motor even running? I took the passengers side and center dash out again. I found the vacuum switch on top of the air box and it was leaking air constantly so I just bought another. I did notice that when I moved the cable that it just touches the top of the spring button when cold and comes off when moved to hot. Can you explain how that vacuum switch is supposed to work? Is the spring button supposed to expand or contract? I also bought the vacuum switch that connects the heater hose that goes to the heater core just in case. This way all heater parts are new. Thanks Jack |
what happened
What happened; you guys just dropped off on this. I have the exact same problem on my 81. Everything on the system works but it will not blow hot air. Air flows thru the proper vents but its never hot.
I removed the glove box and watch the temperature control switch move and open the door. When the cable moves the switch to the cold position, it does depress the vacuum switch like it is suppose to. I'm wondering if my correction is my problem. My car wasn't blowing A/C air out of the vent registries on the dash. I found a vacuum leak on my intake manifold and connected the line and my A/c started blowing out of the registry again. I notice that the originator of the post here said that he just connected his A/C and defrost system. Could it be something there. |
Heat
Hi,
For now I managed to get the heat and defrost working and I know that it is the replacement switch that I bought that is now allowing the vacuum for the A/C to work. For heat on the 77 I had to replace 2 switches. One on top of the vent behind the passengers side dash, with 2 vacuum lines, with a spring loaded switch, that when you move the bottom cold- hot lever it pushes that switch on and off. One of the vacuum lines goes to a control in the engine compartment between the hot water (anti-freeze) to the heater core. It makes the hot water flow or not. If you move the lever for cold to hot the when it is on hot feel both hoses on each side of the control on the passengers side. The one going to it will be hot as soon as the motor warms up. If the switch is working, the side going to the core will be hot too. If not do what I did, replace both as they are not too much money. I will fix the A/C in the spring. It is the new plug in behind the main switch with he 5 vacuum lines. I am happy to have cool & Hot air out of my lower ducts and defrost in the winter. I do not need A/C in this blizzard that we just got. I have found that some of the new re produced parts really suck. I had to make a few good parts from a new and old part. Good Luck Jack 77 C3 |
Originally Posted by Artsvette73
(Post 1575002624)
On the 77 there is a vacuum valve mounted on top of the heater box. Did you check that valve for function? It supplys vac. to the heater control valve in the engine compartment, to open or close
Thanks Jack |
I think i know the switch
I think i know the switch you guys are talking about. It resides at the end of the stroke when you move the temperature cable to cold. there is a little tab that pushes the switch in when the cable moves all the way to cold. I thought that may be my problem but wonder about this: - isn't the car design so that if you move the cable between hot and cold, you are suppose to receive a mixture of cold air and hot air (warm)? I don't see how you could ever get warm air if the only way to get the hot air to flow is to depress the switch with the temp cable being in the absolute cold position. However, I did manually hold the switch in just to see if the air would blow hot and it didn't. I guess my problem is something else!
|
Maybe your thermostat is stuck open.
|
nah
I don't think its the thermostat. If it was, there would be some hint of warming. My air is as cold as a/c air. I think its my water shut off valve under the hood. I don't think its opening to allow hot water in. I was going to change it a couple of days ago but my Opti Spark died and took precedence. Once I get it running again, I will change the water valve and let you guys know how it turned out!
|
Water Temp Control Valve
That was it! There is a water temperature control valve (or I have heard others say Heater Control Valve) under the hood on the passenger fender well. Heater hose goes to it before it enters the car. I change that and I'm as warm as can be!
|
take the blower resistor out and u can see if the temp door is opening and closing...
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:07 AM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands