Headers are on! Alternator bracket question
 

My new Hedman headers are on and look great. Installation was very easy. I never, ever saw the problem that I was going to encounter....
When I rebuilt my motor I put on Edelbrock polished heads and needed a 1" spacer (so I am told) to clear the roller rockers to the valve covers. Now the standard header alternator bracket for a short water pump doesn't fit because it is too short. Anybody make a bracket that will work and won't break the bank?

You can buy one at just about any auto parts store for under $10. It bolts to your header bolts.

If you mean the adjustable bracket, I had a welder add about an inch to mine. Make sure you get it right with an acceptable arch to clear the top of the alternator. :cheers: Dennis

I have one of those, but it is short due to the extra 1" spacer. If the part didn't wrap around the lip of the valve cover, I would be golden.

So is the bracket hitting the valve cover or is the bottom of the alternator hitting the valve cover? Would a longer or shorter belt re-position the alternator so it will not touch the valve cover?

I'd re-examine the premise that you need that spacer.

Many after market heads have raised rocker cover rails that automagically give you enough clearance for the Poly-Loks.

Even with stock heads you don't need a 1" spacer. Short Poly-Loks and a 5/16" valve cover gasket will give enough head room that you can get the valve cover on.

Jim

I can't see how this would be an issue. Maybe its just the mount you are using?
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BTW, these things flex like the Dickens. I took mine to a welding shop and had them add a reinforcement. Still flexes big time. Like an accordion, they straighen out at the bends.
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When most people hear the belt squeel, it is typically because the existing bracket/brace are flexing allowing the nose of the alternator to pull in/angle in toward the crank. This reduces the tension on the belt and it slips. (Mine still does this to some extent and you can see the lengths I've gone to to address this problem.) But I have another ace up my sleeve. ;) (More on that later this/next week.)

When I used a bracket similiar to this, I got tired of replacing them when the mounting legs broke. So the next time I bought one, I cut a horizontal slot in each leg above the mounting holes. I cut the slot almost all the way through (so I could break off the mounting legs). I then bolted the bracket to the header, and welded it to the header (on the back side of the bracket). I then broke off the mounting legs so I would have adequate clearance for a wrench on the header bolt. Never had any problems after that.
:cool:

If you have the Edelbrock heads, they should have the drilled and threaded holes in the front that the original factory 327 heads didn't. There are a variety of different alternator mounting brackets that use those holes. I have that type of mounting bracket and tall valve covers on a 383 stroker with no interference problems at all. Check Summit or Jegs.

I will have to look at the spacer and clearance. That would be great to not have it.
I talked to Alan Grove brackets today. They are extremely nice, but pricey. $89 for a painted one seems high to me. Maybe not. If the roller rockers hit after taking off the spacer, I may not have a choice.:toetap:

i see you have a flex fan on your car...PLEASE do yourself a favor and get rid of it! ....mine fatigued after 5 years use and a piece broke off and sliced thru the rad hose like a razor knife then put a hole in my hood, at normal highway speed...just a warning!

......

A friend is bending the bracket that I had outwards and I hope to have the alternator on tonight. That will get me to the muffler shop tomorrow for the rest of the install.
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You appear to have thick flanges on your headers (like my Thorleys). When you put the header bracket on, you loose bolt thread engagement. As it is, if you are using the typical 3/4" long header bolts, you only have marginal grab as is. These first two bolts kept coming loose for me and I put longer ones in to compensate for the mount/flange.

Good point. I will have to measure the bolts because they appeared longer than normal to me, but I didn't think twice about it. I got these headers for a number of reasons and one of them was the thicker flange. It is 3/8" instead of 5/16" which seems to be more of the normal anymore.

In my opinion, the best solution for a left hand side alternator mount is one of the OE brackets used on the C-3. They bolt to the forward surface of the head (your Edlebrocks should be threaded for it), so there is no need to use the header mounting bolts. There were at least 3 different versions. Try any of the usual Corvette part suppliers, and look for the C-3 bracket.

Harry

(edit: Noticed its also LB66383's recommendation)

Well, I drove to the muffler place today with open headers. Wow. My teeth were still rattling 15 minutes later after I pulled in, but it was quite a thrill. I got a few looks at the stop lights.:D
The chambered exhaust is on and it sounds great. I was able to heat up and change the configuration of the alternator bracket and got it on. It is not perfect yet, but I needed to only get to the shop and back for now. Maybe it is just me, but it sure seems to rev quicker than before with the stock 2" exhaust.
At WOT, she really sings. I can't imagine what it sounds like out the back.:thumbs:

[QUOTE=jkuzzy;1573622328]Well, I drove to the muffler place today with open headers. Wow. My teeth were still rattling 15 minutes later after I pulled in, but it was quite a thrill. I got a few looks at the stop light.

::steering: