Since it has been a couple of months since the last update I saw I was wondering if Poorhousenext's project has been finished yet.

Sadly, the answer is "No". Back on Page, 7, post # 135 I mention car had to be completely disassembled and paint striped back to body.

What posts, I've made since back in August, were just of things we could do while trying to figure out what happen that caused paint to separate between coats. That was exposed by a simple problem to figure out how it happened.

All fingers were pointed at painter. Info to me didn't jive, but it wasn't until I showed a sample of delaminated paint to and old painter that saw something everyone else missed, and laying out timeline of how car was painted and material, along with door jams not having same problem led to me not allowing car to be repainted till we could make sure it didn't happen again.

What that old painter saw was the paint separated between the 2nd coat of color and 3rd and final coat color, not between clear and color coats.

With the help of a major manufacture of laser measuring equipment, and the help of a couple of Car Guys from Engineering Department of local University we have a good idea of what and why it happened and where the fault lay.

The car was repainted, Tuesday, March 29 after being striped and re-blocked smooth again. Hope to start reassembly as soon as paint is buffed out.

Shop doing work has eaten all the cost of repainting and will until car is back to condition of assembly it was prior to discovery of problem(s).

Was Shop the cause of problem? My finding didn't point to them. It's in their hands if they want to take the data and try to recover their loss.

I bypassed who I believed caused delaminating problem.

Shop, told me they had never seen a customer so clam, who's only concern was trying to figure out what caused the problem so it didn't happen again. It was truly a heart breaking event for both me and shop.

I'm beyond trying to figure out just when car will be complete.

I had hopes of it being ready this year for Nashville GoodGuys show last of May, but don't think we will make it as mechanic setup and my lack of seat time in it needed for Auto Crossing event even if we get her completed.

Next want to try and make date would be Columbus Ohio GoodyGuys show in July.

Both of those, I have been offered free transportation to and from...LOL

Man, that stinks. Judging from your name though, you seem to know what you were getting into.
I assume you have a good reason for not divulging what the problem was, but Im sure everyone would like to know to possibly help others when you feel you can divulge it.
Best of luck. You will get there someday.

:iagree:

Many paint manufacturers have warranties in place for product failure, I would presume your shop would have been in touch with them. It totally sucks that you and the shop have to go through the problems and work again though.

I was thinking of sending you a pm, have not seen much from you. Hang in there Buddy, I am thinking of you.

R.J.

way cool :thumbs:

I was wondering what happened to the most anticipated project on here?

I thought maybe your avatar name had come true, haha!
Bummer on the paint man, looking forward to the next episode.....:rock:
:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

We were in touch with paint Manufactor, an they sent Rep down to look at it. Rep took a sample to have analyzed, and report result back to us.

He never even had the courtesy to even call Shop and tell them results, much less in writing. He did call local suppliers Rep and tell him clear coat was to thick, quoting same Mil thickness as local Rep's hand held thickness gun read, 12.5 Mils.

Three separate samples from different sections of car, measured 6.7 Mil average thickness when measured with Laser equipment in lab. That was about the same as I got with micrometer.

Between the 2nd and 3 coats of color, local supplier had to replace 1st gallon of paint because the blue pearl would nor stay suspended and was clumping in gun and filter. Second gallon did not do that.

When sample of paint from each gallon and one from a quart they mixed last, none of 3 had the same proportions of ingredients. One even had one ingredient missing. Components of each were all over the place.

We also are having sample of paint used to repaint car analyzed to see if it matches any of the paint mixed by original local supplier.

The original paint looked great, and was very moody like a woman. :D Moody paint shows off bodylines due to way it refracts light. I hope the re-paint does too, just hope all coats adhears to each other this time.:toetap:

Thanks for the update Poorhousenext. Your project is one that I truly look forward to seeing when it is completed as you have put a lot of thought into the finished product. Also, you appear to have done a very thorough analysis of your paint situation. The company I work for experienced a problem with what appeared to be solvent pop when doing topcoat on industrial gear. We chased that issue for two months going thru airlines, filters, pressure the paint was shot at, temperature, contamination in the air, etc. and finally settled on paint being applied too heavy.

I know it's not the same situation as you experienced, but here's a link to how one company explored eliminating solvent pop with heavier paint layer.
http://www.pfonline.com/articles/preventing-solvent-pop

I am sure the new paint will be okay my friend:thumbs:
I really am looking forward to new pictures of the car:thumbs:

who made the paint? did you stay with same paint manufacturer for the repaint?

It's not a question of who made the paint, it's who mixed the paint formula using manufacturer's recommended weight for each ingredient that makes up that formula.

Shop wanted to stay with Manufacture as they have used their paint for years with no problems. They also supply Audi who's paint color I'm using so I agreed to go with them.

My guess, not that it matters is the paint is Glasurit. Very good upper end paint, as far as the formula, I would say mixer error from a overpour of a tinting color, normally there is a correction to add the other tints to bring the formula back to the proper color.

I understand completely the shop wanting to stay with a product they have used for a long time, with the type of work quality they turn out by evidence of your car, let them do what they know to do to correct the car, hopefully the paint manufacturer or the paint supplier store will make right to the shop.

Man you love to read about these projects, but you hate to see issues like this come up.

R.J.

Hate to see this for sure but I am in agreement with RJ here. I am still waiting to come down to chattanooga to see this bad boy for sure...

Robert,

You only have to drive over to Knoxville, to see my Southern Lady. The car is no longer a He. The most male muscle cars ever designed (63-67 Corvette (all angles) now has curves.

Body model for Car:thumbs:

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/x...phia-loren.jpg

Unbelieveable amount of work, thats a huge commitment.
Keep going, doing an awesome job!

Now then, this explains my fascination with your car! There is no other like Sophia!!

While waiting on car to be repainted, decided it was time to figure out what to do about either going with GM LS Engine covers, to cover the stock valve covers with coils on top, or replacing stock valve covers with taller ones that require coils to be relocated.

GM covers left a lot to be desired, as my alternator is mounted on opposite side, so that left corner of drivers side valve cover and coil exposed. Also that's what most use.

I looked at relocating coils and using aftermarket taller valve covers. But just so tired of trying to hide things, so as usual for me in trying to make car different from the crowd, I decide on a set of valve covers from Katech Performance and use their coil mounting system rather than hide them. Their mounting system just moves coil off valve covers and put them above them.

With anything other than engine covers, I still needed to deal with exposed fuel rails and injector wiring that needed to be hidden from sight. My decision to go with the Katech valve covers made the coils a focus point on engine instead of hiding them. Some may like that, some may not, but it's different from what you most often see with LS engine installs.

I actually started out trying to cover the coils, but that hid the valve covers, so decided to leave them exposed, and just make a set of fuel rail covers instead of engine covers to hide injector and coil wiring.

To see what I was dealing with, I started out with a big piece of cardboard and whittled it down to come up with base coverage size needed. Next had to convey my idea to shop of what I was looking for. That lead to shop's idea to trim and fit an old valve cover area so we had a hard surface to work with. Using valve covers, cardboard and masking tape we came up with a base mold we could layup a part we could work with using bondo to shape it, and then make a mold to make final parts off of.

Worked out that we only needed one mold to make left and right hand parts, even after shop added in the contours around and in between the coils, so they did not look straight and plain. Parts are same except for tab on right hand one use to cover MAP sensor wiring plug.

To me at least, it looks like something GM might have done on a Concept Car.

Started with this as base.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4180432.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4180431.jpg

Next came using the old valve as hard surface to tie things together.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4180430.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4180434.jpg

Add the cardboard to valve cover with masking tape. Paint it black to see if it might work, and then produce fiberglass piece of it to work with to come up with final shape, pickup some stainless Corvette lettering to see how that might add a little pop to covers. Then using bondo come up with final fuel rail cover shape to make a part mold off off. You can see we are trying to make the Fuel Rail covers mounting points look like the ones on the Valve Covers to try and tie the two together.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4180437.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4280442.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4280443.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4280444.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4280448.jpg

Made a mold, pulled parts off it. Cleaned up the shape on them.
To try and make mounting points look like those on the valve covers, we pulled molds off the valve covers mount points to make 4 pieces to resemble the anodized washers molded in to them.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...railcover1.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...railcover2.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...railcover3.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...railcover4.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P5170461.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P5170462.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P5170458.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P5170460.jpg

So now I have 8 ugly coils sticking out, but the fuel rails, injector and coil wiring are hid.:rofl:

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P5260471.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...P5260464-1.jpg

PS: Looks a little better in person than in the pictures. Should help when we get letters stuck on.

Looking good:thumbs:

Any updates on the project?