You could have just told me it was none of my business!:lolg:

very very nice job. i love the color also. you should not take photos, where the light is
overhead fluorescent light. the temp of the light is low, usually makes things look green.
some of the tubes have higher temp for a more natural light, but they are expensive.
jim

Great car:thumbs:

Ross01,

Thanks or your praise.

What I've done is like changing a flat tire on car compared to what you've done.

We only made changes to try improve on what many others had already done, mostly with the rear tire coverage on front side of rear 1/4 panel. Similar coverage on rear of 1/4 panel had already been done. The other change was just slapping a Z06 style vent on front lower fenders instead of doing minor body work changes to them.

I told my builder about what you had done, then showed him pictures of car. He was truly impressed. He said it's hard enough to build a car body from the ground up, but to merge to different bodies together is a monumental challenge. Said there was so much work involved in the merging of two different body styles. Lot more work and thought required than just cut/chop a car.

Does he get it and truly understand, you bet. Below are links to to cars he and his son PJ built from scratch. He said they were easy compared to what you've done.

http://www.b-rodorcustom.com/gallery...ew_Tomcat.html

http://www.b-rodorcustom.com/gallery...A_Project.html

I think he would agree with your builder about us not having the gonads to do one off builds when it comes to what many consider an Automotive Icon. Told me to think back how hard it was for him to get me to agree to let him make changes to body required to just have a little Rim Hoop on rear of my car without tubbing by changing those Iconic bodylines some. .:D

Wonder how many peoples would think I should have just built this version of car, rather than the one that changed those Iconic bodylines a little bit.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...rt3Small-1.jpg

Please accept my appoligies form those that get what you achived for those of us that don't get it.

Thanks again for your praise and also to members here that have expressed their praise about build as well!!! Also like to thank those of you who have just followed thread and hope you continue to do so as we finish up. This is what keeps my and others spirts up as we try to get these car back on the road.!

So what's in store in the car's future. I'd be interested in performance and reliability updates. You DO plan on driving this thing right? Hope so!:thumbs::cheers:

Kerrmudgeon,

You ask the tough questions.:D

I'm getting a lot of pressure not to drive the car or a while. I'm not really a show car type, maybe part of that is because I don't have any money to buy a truck and enclosed trailer to haul it an it being an expensive proposition even if I did. My retirement and SS checks don't go far as it is, and they are my main source of income..:D

Car has been built to drive and when I started main goal for it was that. There is little over 150 pounds of sound deadener and heat shielding in it to try and make it pleasurable on trips, both long and short. Also tried to make it a little more travel friendly by not tubbing it, thus losing luggage space and also by installing a liftable cover behind seat so there is more usable flat stoarage area behind seats for things.

When it come to shows, Goodyguys shows interest me the most as car has to do 3 lap around autocross track if I want it to be judged. Also they are outdoors. Since Goodyguys opened up their shows to car and trucks thru 1972 year models, more and more 60s cars showing up at them to, so have company there.

I'll know more about if it will be mostly show for a year or not after Nov 6th.

Poorhouse
Mate, sorry about the inference re the "gonards" comment from my friend Darryll.
Being an artist, he was readily upset by some of the comments, and lashed out a bit. I think he's over it now.

It's interesting you raised the thought about messing with an "Automotive Icon", because that's exactly what we did, and just maybe there wouldn't be too many folk over in the U.S. that would do that. That thought crossed our minds as we were designing this car. In fact , it encouraged us more.

We started with a pile of junk, a dream, and a blank piece of paper.
I think it is vitally important to have plan, in writing, that you can refer to during the build process. Sure, you can chop and change a tad, but the basic plan needs to be in place before you start.

Thought for the day:-, when building any part of your car:- step back and take a real hard look at what you have done.
If you don't say "WOW" I really like that:- pull it off and start again. If you have to find a reason to like what you have done, then it's wrong, pure and simple.
Through my eyes at least, I did that with Prodigy, and after nearly 6 and a half years and 7,300 odd hours I wouldn't change a thing.

Poorhouse, many thanks for your kind words.
You're a braver man than me to post your build from start to finish.
I sincerely wish you well with your continuing journey, and will watch
with interest, the conclusion.

Ross1,

No reason to be sorry about the reference. Tell your mate I agree with him too, that most of us in US lose them when it comes to our automotive icons an our ability to handle Peer pressure without caving into it....LOL Before they became Icons we had no problem doing it.

My next change may cause some heartburn for me from other, but like you said when you step back and look at things and they just don't say WOW or at least OK you need to go back and try again.

At least I saved the Big Midyear's Iconic Clock rather than doing away with it like others. Just moved it lower so I could have a radio and mount a Transmission fluid temp gage at same eye level on center dash as the small gages in gage cluster cluster.

I've been waiting on re-faced gages gages I hope will confuse some to be shipped back for last two weeks. Hope they show up this week so I can see if I've really screwed up this time. If I have there is no turning back, I'll have to live with them...LOL The little ring sitting on top o dash is a look alike bezel we made to try and see if we can have all the gages with a bezel around it. Trying to mount aftermarket gage refaced to match other gages behind it will be next challenge.

Center dash now looks like swiss cheese with all the holes in it.:D

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8130609.jpg

Funny, I kept the clock too, just repainted the needles to match the C5Z06 instrument cluster.

Poorhouse, you are going to screw up from time to time, but if it feels right:- DO IT.
All the successful people I've known, screw up at times, but they succeed far more than they fail. This is the difference between folk that get somewhere in life, and ones that don't

You are doing just fine mate.

:U Red corvettes. I hate red corvettes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

=============================
That is a beautiful car.

I love it!

You should create a thread with "Grand Sport" in the title so that crowd can admire your car. I am currently building a Grand Sport, and doing something very different with it. I think their are many people who would enjoy seeing you car, and possibly getting some ideas.

Doing something different, "It is a Road less Taken".

Regards,

Ty O'Neal

Here is a draft of mine. It will be somewhat different than this when finished, buy I think it gives you an Idea.

considering my budget, I think mine would have hit the road with that home depot intake tube, just the way it is, for a bit ...:lol:

Ty,

I've been following your GS build. I got interested in GS after I measured width of my 64's at center of wheel front and rear. Mine's width is almost the same width with front being 1/2 less in width. I was thinking my car would fit over GS tires with some room to spare.

When you posted the below picture back in May that has picture looking down and saw the ront and rear were not close to the same. Knew then front fitting would not be a problem and it did not look like rear would be either that is until you posted picture of GS scale model.

The rear flare width looks to be wider than my 64 stretched 1/4 panel. Tire wise I can run up to 12.5" inch wide tire without a problem.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/atta...ndsport1-1.jpg

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/atta...1-img_1628.jpg

Would you measure the model width at center of rear wheel and tell me how wide it is if it were full scale? Love to know my body is as wide as or wider than GS's.

When I look at picture of a GS style vette, I know my body will fit over it.

http://i884.photobucket.com/albums/a...7979e3eb90.jpg

When it comes to starting a thread of my car with GS in title, I would not.

My car is a Wide Body Pro Touring class car, term GS would not be apporiate to use to describe it.
It and the red vintage 66 racer are of the same family as my car's design is based off of them, but they are not GS cars either.

Jere,

Sorry I won't be able to go to Carlisle this year, as I really wanted to go.
The car is looking good!

Next week, I am starting on the new coupe project and I will incorporate some of the changes that you did on this car.



Regards, John McGraw

John,

Thats what I call a real complement!!!!

I hope one of the changes is the rear 1/4 panel and door for rear tire coverage.

I would love to see wide rear with C6 suspension and frame rails moved inboard. You could run widest tire size out there, an you'll need that with the Supercharged engine I think you've mentioned you would be using. Choice of wheel styles/looks would be limitless too.

Yep, I am using the C5/C6 rear suspension on this one with a 9" ford center section. Mike assures me that there will be enough room for 375 tires under the rear. It will be nice to finally have a little traction! The other cars are fun to drive, but can get downright scary under full throttle.


Regards, John McGraw

Very cool project/custom Vette and nice thread with great photos and information!

Keith

Ty,

THe reason I said I wouldn't use GS in thread title is because some of the GS owners, especialy the ones who have tried to dupilcate one to the nith degree are real touchy about them. Have little requard for those that try to improve on their handling and braking, as in Restomod'ed Grand Sport. GS's are an Icon within the Corvette club.

MY Wide Body Corvette is like a Lady going to the Country Club on a Saturday night, while GS's are like Males going to a Polo Match at the Country Club...:woohoo:
You know the little boys don't want a girl trying to play with them..:D

Try a Grand Sport search now and see if it shows up in list. Heck, I named car after a little girl who kicked the little boy's Butts in a Peddle Car race at Goodguys show, so might as well roll the dice and see if they come up Snake Eyes...:rofl:

I probably can run a 12.0" wheel too, but I know I can run 11.0" wheel with 12.60" wide tire without a problem.

Measurement wise,

1. Across Outside edges of Body's rear 1/4 Flares, at center line of the wheel (at diameter).

2. Across the outside bulge of the tires (at the diameter)

That should tell me what I want to know, at least from a scale model.

I also use a 28.3" dia tire just on an 18.0" rim to fill rear wheel well cavity and to help with show front to rear stance an to get more rubber between rim and ground.

Could have done the same with 15" or 17" front and rear rims and 25.6" dia and 28.0" dia tires and get the same look. Just wanted 1/2 & 1/2. Little more rubber and rim dia on rear to add some to modernization theme for the younger generation without totally alienating the older generations. :D

I was going to respond, but just decided to take the high road and say "thank you for your opinion".

If possible, get a weight of the car total, and front to rear. Extra weight here and there adds up. Might need a lil more spring.

very nice job !

Poorhouseman:

Welcome over! I'm glad you are easier to find.


THe reason I said I wouldn't use GS in thread title is because some of the GS owners, especialy the ones who have tried to dupilcate one to the nith degree are real touchy about them. Have little requard for those that try to improve on their handling and braking, as in Restomod'ed Grand Sport. GS's are an Icon within the Corvette club.

85+% of the GS's are technically types of resto-mods, protouring, replicas etc. I have seen only a few that actually had the correct suspension in the them, a few with some period parts, and a few that were raced on a Road Race Track consistently.

Many have A/C, Power Windows, Power Brake, Power Steering etc. IMHO: You are taking on Way more work than anything mine is doing.

I will love my car when it is done, but that said there will always be things that are way more important to me than any car.

I'm glad you can be found.

I really like your car.

Ty

I thank you for not sharing your opinion:thumbs::rock:

In an earlier post, Ross1, made a statement that I found myself facing back in Sept of last year and had the paint not lifted, I would have probably just stayed with what we had already done, like it or not.

I had not done what I wanted to do with center dash layout and how we mounted 4 Rocker switches 3 that control transmission functions, and one that operates the NPP exhaust Mild to Wild RPM opening setting.

While I had no problem staying with my original stock gages and clock, slivered faced, with 200 MPH speedo, I also wanted and most likely needed a Transmission Fluid gage so I could monitor it's temp later on.

Plus the car's body had been changed to modernize it's looks, rest of interior fixing to get a more modern look too, and my builder though I needed to update look of gages to give them a more modern look to match. I thought I needed to save a few of my SS & Retirement Checks so I could buy gas for at least one ride in car when it's finished. (thats for Kerrmudgeon as I know he is worried about money being spent are at least total amount.)...:D:rofl:

I caved in as redoing center dash as that cured my big problem with it's look. If I updated gages it would only be if I could do it using stock needles as I hate aftermarket ones as they are dead giveaways that you have aftermarket gages, plus I wanted a classier look also and if the Midyears big Iconic clock could be refaced to match so I could keep it. Another requirement was they not have manufactures name and/or gage name in big letters on them. I hate that as it's a really dead giveaway that gages aren't factory.

I wanted them to try and give the impression as if they were a concept GM design department might have done. After all my main goal is for a Concept Car look.

Here is what I had.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P9170281.jpg

Here is paper layout stuck to center dash so builder could cut all the openings spaced correctly and most o all the ones that let me use modified Radio control bezels to mount rocker switches into and add sticker to try and simulate the stock control bezels as it allowed the builder to cut the half moon hole for their locater tab for alignment. Also add Radio opening at top of center dash, opening for trans temp gage, along with moving it lower to save it due to needing to install radio higher up due to width problem with it.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P7220544.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8130609.jpg

Here is picture of 2011 Corvette gages I used for lettering style and use of cross flags on Speedo and Tach. Might as well update to a look that keeps it in the family.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...11_DAS_i03.jpg

Here is only close up of gage cluster I have. Took it when cluster arrived this past Tuesday, before we had a chance to repaint it due to scratches in paint.

Where able to use stock needles to try and misdirect people who don't look close and see gages are aftermarket not original ones refaced. Clock is refaced to match, rather than have it not match or like most who go with aftermarket gages not used due to not matching look of gages.

Use dulled spun look bare aluminum for face, slanted lettering like the C6 gages have, with midyear style Cross flags to match look of late model cross flags. The lighting diffuser rings in gages where painted same color as dash, again for a try at a little misdirection. The red dot in tach just below 50 is a superbrite LED shift light triggered by Raptor Performance switch, I've used before on Motorcycles where space is limited. There are also tiny red dots at 15,25,35,45,55 and 65 MPH increments on speedo, again as misdirection as not being aftermarket gages, as no Mfg in his right mind would do that.:willy::D

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h.../P83006002.jpg

Ater repaint.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e-64/dash1.jpg

Here is the center dash layout with trans temp gage with a bezel to make it match clock and rest of gages.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e-64/dash2.jpg

Here is a look at how dash will look in car when installed. It's the best I could do to clean up the looks of it vs he 1st attempt, that was worst, at least to me. As some of you may have noticed, the clock does not have the polished stainless ring around it's face like all the gages do, because it is the only refaced original gage. Shame we couldn't pull that off too!

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e-64/dash3.jpg

What convinced me to go aftermarket rather than stock way Rich's Split Personality 63 an Bobby Alloway 63 both did same to update gage looks. Both of those car benefited from change, I hope mind does too.

PS: Yes my 64 has 67 Hub Cap knobs in stead of 64 style. Concept GM copied from my car back in 1964 to use on the 67.:D

I would figure out what I needed in terms of that stainless trim ring, even if all I did was a piece that was attached to it's face. I would draw it up and have it made......it's the details that make a great car.....

Your gauges turned out awesome!

:iagree: Nice job! :thumbs:

Pro Touring- Road and Track- Grand Sport- B/Production
 

:smash: :smash: Mr/Ms Moderator, due to the following comments on which I believe to be a common subject of conversation and wanted by the masses, can you PLEASE :yesnod: entertain the creation of a C2 sub-catogory perhaps Titled:
(P/T) Pro Touring / (R/T) Road and Track for the HiPo road race set and Grand Sport/B=Production type folks. I myself would like to nominate this category for consideration. Anybody out there wanna second, and or third the motion? Can you dig it? I knew that ya would! :rock:

lovvvvvve them gauges.......:rock:

The gages look great and this has been a VERY good build thread. Hats off to you and your vision. :cheers:

Your gauge cluster looks great, are you also painting the glovebox door to match, or keeping it black?

One Word, "Classy"!

That is the pic that I wanted thanks, I am thinking about painting the cluster and glove box like you did. Can't wait to see the finished interior.

What a beautiful build! Very nice layout on the console, you have a lot of stuff without it looking crowded.

I see by reading this thread that you like to think things out and make them look like they belong. I have one suggestion for you. It appears that the name plates around the rockers have been silk screened or a sticker or something was applied.

I see that you painted the black name plate bezels this 2nd time. You could make your console bezels look like they belong better with a little change.

If you were to have those plates re-printed with white letters on a maroon (color of the dash) background, they would resemble the original ones on the dash better than the way they look now.

Also I wouldn't suggest this for most people, but your guys seem to be able to handle just about anything and make it come out nice. I would also trim the new bezels like shown in the photo below. The bottom 2 below the clock I did not trim to show you what it would look like if you just decided to change the colors.


http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e-64/dash1.jpg

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/4580/dash2a.jpg

These bezels just don't look like they work with the rest of the gauges.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...e-64/dash2.jpg

John,

Before I decided to change gages, the Gage Cluster Bezels were black as stated. My builder an I have been at odds about his reluctance to paint them black again when he repainted cluster last week.

Last Friday he asked me to wait until I saw dash all together in car before I made the decision which way look best.

Tuesday I went up, looked it over, then told him to put it back the way it was when we sent it out to get gages fitted.

He said why, I told him that tied the gage cluster bezels and center dash bezels to one another and "I' liked that look better!

Original idea behind the way we did the center dash dash rocker switch bezels with the sliver stickers was to make them resemble the two original heater control bezels below them that are factory.

Hope the change back to the way it was is acceptable...:D I don't want to have to paint the center bezels sliver with black letters to try for a better match...:toetap::D

Original look and what bezels had better look like when I go back up Friday...lol

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8300600.jpg

Couple of better pictures of the gages. Would have been nice to have been able to take them in a room without florescent light reflecting off lens.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P9060601.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P9060602.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P9060604.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P9060618.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P9060616.jpg

I should have known you had it well thought out. :hide:

Wow!

A New Standard has Arrived!

Awesome.

Ty

Any thought of painting the wiper, headlight and lighter knobs?

Tom,

No thought given to that. It hards to get paint to stick to chrome even if you etch it, plus you have a ware factor to a painted surface when you are touching/handling it.

Only thought given to those was ditching the 64 original knobs and replacing them with 67 "Dog Dish" ones. Hope there was their centers resembled the center of the Rocker Switches.

When we made the Bezel for the Trans Temp Gage, we made it so the top edge would match the look of original dash bezels have with chrome base showing on stock black cluster. With the gages having the polished/chrome rings around the lens, we painted it and cluster's bezels all sliver as the new gages lens retainer provided similar look.

We did look at using the material we used on Trans temp bezel to give a chrome look around the outer ring of the Rocker Switches so they might resemble the 67 dash knob and heater control knobs.

Just proved to be to complicated to apply it without switches being disassembled. Same with trying to use the new Chrome look paint that came out about a year ago in effort to make them match. Maybe one day I can do that.

John,

My car is probably the worst thought out of any build posted here. If it had been well thought out, I would not have had to go back and change so many things...:D

The way car has evolved was not suppose to be!

My original intent was just to have a nice stock look reliable driver with a lower front fender vent treatment car does have. The renderings I posted were done in an effort to try and change my mind and build something that set car apart from the crowd. I had nixed that, until someone made a little white mistake and ordered wheels with backspacing they wanted to get "The Look" and that wasn't me...LOL

From that point on, I've been scrambling to try and keep the rest of the car up with "The Look", including going from 4L65E automatic to a TCI 6X 6sp with paddle shift option, when I already had a 4L65E built to handle engine's HP/TQ and upgraded to be compatible with LS3 58 reluctor ring engine. The A4 became to dated..:(


Ty,

I wouldn't say a new standard has arrived. My car is not built to the standard of say Rich's 63 Split Personalty. It's in class of it's on, custom, exterior, interior and under hood.

That said, my car is somewhat of a Crossover car, a little of all these looks, from Custom, Hot Rod, Street Machine, Muscle Machine and Wide Body ProTouring. Not great at being any of them, but can be perceived to be any one of them, depending on what someone is use to seeing.

Will most people "Get It", I don't know. I may have a better idea if they do, are if just a small group of people "Got It" by mid November.

The acceptance of car here has been great!!! Messing with a Classic's body lines isn't easy to do. Thanks to people like 67Heaven, vintage racers, along with others here who have paved the way for doing that, has made it easier for me to get by with it.

Standard wise, maybe if I've done anything, it's to get people to think outside the box they are use to seeing, and make their cars unique to their own Standard at the time they are doing their build.

Jere,

Love how the dash and gauges came out as well as everything else about the car. Great job! :thumbs:

Rich

I, for one, am looking forward to seeing the finished car. From the pictures I've seen as you've progressed you have really enhanced the original line of the body. I would like to think that if the current technology, wheels/tires, etc. were available back in the early 60s when the Sting Ray was conceived, the car possibly would have been closer to your finished product.

I was actually just wondering about the center of the knobs, where they are black now.

Just out of curiousity, did the other car ever get finished, the one with the LS7?

Keep up the good work.
Tom M

Tom,

The 66 is sitting in Knoxville, TN now waiting on shop to finish this one up, then will help finish up the 66. Hope to have it done in next couple of months. Hardest thing left to do on it is exhaust system. It should have been finished 2 years ago.

Hope is the 64 will move to interior shop by the end of next week at latest, barring a major problem preventing it from cranking and they can start working on buttoning it up, AC hoses, water and heater hoses, trans cooler hoses, etc.

Finally got the engine cranked after working through problems with cam sensor and throttle peddle connectors having wires installed in wrong pin location. Not a happy camper about that.

Decide to pull it outside and take a few pictures. Still need to finish up and tweak a few things before we take the car to upholstery shop Tuesday. Way behind schedule on getting car ready for the road due to the wiring issues.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0105.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0103.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0097.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0104.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0102.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0101.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0100.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0099.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0098.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0097.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0096.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0094.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0093.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0092.jpg

Good Work Indeed
 

In the words of Tommy Lee Jones: Outstanding Young Man, Outstanding.
Best part=Side grills and stance

Earl

Beautiful machine....

:iagree:
Simply Outstanding!!!!!

Beautiful job, I love it!:cool:

Extremely well executed blend of modern and classic. Well done sir. The engine looks just as amazing as the rest of the car too, which is not an easy task with an LS motor.

:cheers:

wow....I really do love the color in those outside shots!!

Outstanding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!:thumbs:

:thumbs:

Simply Stunning ....what vision & patience u & the shop have had :cool:

done good. jim

Took a few more pictures outside today, since sun was shinning, hoping to show how paint changes color and refacts sunlight. You still want see in these pictures what paint really looks like if you were seeing it in person. Tried to match them up with similar shots from previous post.

You can see lighting change makes the bodyline stand out.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0103.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA010686.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0102.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA010685.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0093.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA010698.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/SANY0101.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA010688.jpg

Below are a couple of shots showing rear tire coverage. Forgot to shoot any of front side rear tire coverage.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA010682.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA010699.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA010700.jpg


Couple of interior pictures.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA010696.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA010695.jpg

Came out beautiful!

I think that I know what the color looks like in person. :cool:

http://www.largescaleonline.com/eima.../DSC_00021.jpg

Toddalin,

I'd love to see both cars parked next to each other.

I think you would quickly change your mind about what color looks like in person....LOL

You really have to see the pearl kick in when you get 4' to 6' feet away in direct sunlight. Prior to that, pearl looks like sliver metal flakes.

Then you would probably say, "What the Hell was he Thinking when he picked his paint color.":rofl:

Beautiful car!! What steering wheel is it from and is that a GPS unit on the right side of the column?

Rick

P.S. Not sure but is the stinger area a lighter color?

Rick,

The steering wheel is an Isotta, that Flaming river sells under their name. We did modify the aluminum horn button surround by adding allen screws in dimple location to try for a more sport look, along with cutting down horn button from a 70's C3 that has white checker in upper left corner to cover F/R's decal.

It's the closest steering wheel I could find that ressembles C6's.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...6dashgages.jpg

I believe what you think might be a GPS unit, is the digital gear selected indicator that comes on when transmission is switched from automatic mode over to manual Paddle shift mode to let you know what gear your in when paddle shifting up and down through the transmissions 6 gears.

It can also display engine and transmission data from the ECU and TCU off CAN Bus.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P9140635.jpg

The stinger on the hood is lighter color. I you go back to page 10, post 195 of thread, it might help you see why we went with lighter color, and if you go back to first post about build, you will see I knew from the start it would need to be lighter, rather than darker so it would be visible 99.9 % of the time..:D You should be able to see parts of the hood can almost match it's color in the right light.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA010690.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA010692.jpg

Looks good guys...

Poorhousenext:

I'm really glad you gave the "Grand Sport", people a chance to find and follow your build.;)

Outstanding job, I wish I had your talent.

BTW: With you pipes (Which look very cool) tilted up slightly is there any worry that rain will collect in them, assuming you drive it on a regular basis.

Thanks for sharing it with us.

Sincerely,

Ty O'Neal

One word......wow.

Ty,

Thanks for the complement, but I have no talent, just knowledge of what I liked, what I wanted and what I would accept and once committed not letting my builder down by letting my cheap side kick in and ruin it.

If it was not for what others had already done before me, I would not have had the information to build off I found during my research.

Also luck of working with two other people that could take my ideas, along with theirs and blend them together into a base design with a common theme of European upscale look, both inside and out that we all agreed on.

And last but not least a young body man that could look at a picture and turn it into a reality, other wise what you see would never have been.

I had ideas only, the other had the real talent. We just worked as a team.

The the interior seat, door panel and console are from 5th team member. Because my hand shake so bad, I could get a good steady picture of seats with stainless eyelets. But you should be able to see the European look from a Lamborghini in them.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...ere-64/445.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...ere-64/452.jpg



There is a chance that some rainwater could enter exhaust, but probably no more so than if it was C6.

Exhaust is mounted like C6, an in the second picture, you should see that rear end's overhang should help lessen probability some too. It's all stainless from header colector back too.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P3120246.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN6206.jpg

Beautiful seats.......really sharp!

"Only thought given to those was ditching the 64 original knobs and replacing them with 67 "Dog Dish" ones. Hope was that their centers resembled the center of the Rocker Switches."

Great idea on using the 67 knobs - really helps tie in the idea of "black" features on the dash..... making the stereo, digital shift indicator, modern switches, etc. acceptable to your eye. Makes all the difference. Love it !!

I'm guessing the black shifter knob is for additional black tie-in.... :)

How about color matched cell phone holder?? Only place I can think of would be just to the rear of the center console? I was going to convert my ash tray to one, since it will never be used as an ash tray.

Somehow I doubt that is going to happen very often - being driven, or sitting in the rain? :eek: :D

Thank You For Letting Us Participate!!
 

I have studied your build on many occasions as I have a 65 Coupe in for custom restoration. I appreciate the effort and detail you donated to this forum, and thank you for letting my silently participate in your project. While our projects will take different form, they still have the same foundation of a Streetshop Chassis.

My project is just beginning, and I want to thank you personally for making me a little smarter than I was before.

Take Care - Jerry Clements

Great Job, would love to see it in person.
Any chance you will have it at Corvette Expo in 2 weeks?

Odds are no, an dependent on Upholstery Shop getting interior finished up, but there is that chance if we get car finished up in time.

Next obstacle to showing it is if EXPO Management will let builder place it in Lobby area where you buy tickets, not inside hall.

He wants to show it to see how people respond to it for business reasons. It makes it easier to see people's response by number that stop and look, or walk on by, plus he doesn't have to compete with the inside auction and it's noise if someone asks questions.

I am curious how a car like this is licensed and insured once completed. I think here in Wisconsin it would have to have a "Hobbyist" plate. Here are some of the Wisconsin criteria (I think the middle version represents restomods):

Motorized homemade vehicles:
Homemade motor vehicles, other than motorcycles, qualify for Hobbyist plates.
Vehicle must have been constructed from new or used parts not originating from or resembling a previously manufactured motor vehicle.
Homemade motorcycles that replicate a cycle at least 20 years old.
Application materials must include bills of sale for all major parts used in the construction of the vehicle.
If the vehicle qualifies, you will receive instructions from WisDOT to have the vehicle inspected for safety and equipment.

Replica vehicles:
Are reproductions of vehicles originally made by another manufacturer.
Must replicate a vehicle at least 20 years old.
May be a "kit car."
May need to have form MV2855 completed.

Street modified vehicles:
Must be at least 20 years old.
May be modified from the original manufacturer's specifications.
Can still be recognized as the original year and make.
Are typically known as "hot rods" or "street rods."

I think you read the wrong definition.

Looks like my car would title the same in Wisconsin as in Tennessee. I started with a Titled Car with a Manufactures name and ID plate on it and modified it. Insurance wise, the only problem is appraisal for stated value replacement.

Here is a link to Wisconsin Motor Vehicle Titling requirements and classes of vehicles.

http://www.semasan.com/images/pdf/SA...omplete-WI.pdf

Here is a link to Tennessee Motor Vehicle Titling requirements and classes of vehicles.

http://www.semasan.com/images/pdf/SA...omplete-TN.pdf

Here is a link to 50 states Motor Vehicle Titling
http://www.semasan.com/main/main.aspx?id=62843

Bottom line, my car has and existing Title and a Personalized Plate. I could have went with Antique Car Plate, but thought it might be best to advertise at my age so my Personalized Plate reads SUGIDAD.

Sign in the back window says "Only Middle Age Women 18 to 24 years of age need apply.:rofl:

PS: I do discriminate against some because I don't take application from WalMart Middle age women...:D

My 66 convertible's Personalized Plate is SUGADAD.

OK, I thought you had started with a '64 Corvette and that basically all that was left of the original car was the fiberglass body shell.

In most states, as long as you have the original VIN plate and the original title, the car can be still registered as a 64 Corvette. The choice of engine and drivetrains are pretty much irrelevant.

All of my Restomod cars are registered in this manner, and a couple of them have nothing original on them but the basic body tub.


Regards, John McGraw

This is a amazing, beautiful car:thumbs:
All of the work done to this car is quality:thumbs:
I have said it before and i will say it again that this is the tuffest and most well done C2 Corvette i know of :)

Still looks great!:D

Keep posting more pics!!

I had a chance to look your car over today and I just want to say it looks even better in person. I usually am not a big fan of altering the shape of a mid year but you have done a very tasteful job that is really beautiful.

I came by a couple times and talked with your builder, a very nice young man, but just missed you.

Jeff

Corner weighed Lydia last week and it looks like she is a WalMart Shopia Loren Lady...:D

Knew we had added a lot of weight to car part in due to all the glass work, C6 Power Seats, 150 lbs of insulation/sound deadener, Billy Boat C6 Fusion NPP exhaust, 6X auto transmission, A/C, etc.

The weight added is around 400 lbs more and than similar C2 Restomod builds with Street Shop chassis. Chassis spring weights were based on average range of 2800 -2950 lbs that most builds weighed in at and have 51%/49% front to rear weight distribution.

By contrast Lydia weighed in at 3279 lbs with only 3 gallons of gas in tank.

Good news is the right had side is a little heavier than left side and the Front to Rear weight distribution is within 0.5 % of being 50/50%.

Bad news is she will have to be re-sprung to compensate for both the change in front to rear weight distribution and addition of around 400 lbs of weight... :( Also Lydia is back in upholstery shop having more weight added to her middle.:( Didn't give upholstery shop time to build center arm rest console with, yes 2 cup holder before taking her to SEMA Show...:D

Good news at least it didn't start out tail heavy like some of the aftermarket C2 chassis's. I would be in big trouble with car being way too tail heavy for a sports car that's not a drag race only car.

LF = 800 Lbs
RF= 826 Lbs

Front Total = 1626 Lbs

LR = 823 Lbs
RR = 830 Lbs

Rear Total = 1653 Lbs

Total Weight = 3279 Lbs

Left Side total = 1623 Lbs
Right side total = 1656 Lbs


Left Front/Right rear = 1630 Lbs

Right Front/Left Rear = 1649 Lbs

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC210115.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC210114.jpg

Shop weighed the 66 convertible too, because it was hard to believe how much weight had been added and how much of weight was added to rear of car.

Now the 66 at this time doesn't have exhaust system on it, convertible top has not been installed to frame and she has no fluids in engine yet, so she will probably weight in when finished around 100 to 150 lbs heavier. Weight wise it should be right in line with the average Street Shop chassis Restomod build weight.

LF = 759 Lbs
RF = 703 Lbs

Front Total = 1462 Lbs

LR = 637 Lbs
RR = 670 Lbs

Rear Total = 1307 Lbs

Total Weight = 2769 Lbs

Left Side total = 1396 Lbs
Right side total = 1373 Lbs


Left Front/Right rear = 1429 Lbs

Right Front/Left Rear = 1340 Lbs

In this era of 2 ton Camaros, that is still a featherweight!

Glad to see you plan on driving her.........

Did he say "cupholders" ???? :willy:

Actually I'm kidding....that's a badly needed item these days. I crack up every time I see my buddy's solution in his Cobra - full roll of duct tape sitting between the seats !!! :eek: Looks like hell, but works great :lol:

Don't worry about the extra weight for a second.....I think your power level will take care it, no problem :rock:

===============================
Fast Eddy have you made any more videos?

Ty

Car's interior looked like this at SEMA.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...64/sema5-1.jpg

Got the car back from Upholstery Shop with Center armrest with cup holders yesterday. Thought shop did a nice job of integrating it with the stock console.

Rather than butt it up to stock console, shop extended armrest up over it and used extended sides to cover the transition between the two. Apologize for quality of photos. Forgot to change camera setting back to correct setting for lighting conditions so pictures are grainy.


http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC300160.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC300158.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC300159.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC300161.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC300163.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC300155.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC300132.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC300157.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC300138.jpg

Looks good Jere... nice.

Very nice... me likey!

As in the rest of the car the interior is looking great and classy. Deferentially something to be proud of.:thumbs:

I'd like two in Callahan leather...one white and one in saddle cuz I can't make up my mind which color to do my interior. Hope he kept the template to make more of them. They're beautiful!

:thumbs:

Looks great. Don't forget the insurance.
It has happened.
Bob

Looks as the rest of the car great:thumbs:
Is the arm rest\cup holder fastened with the screws for the original armrest?

No.

It's not fastened down at all right now.

Man, do I love those seats... Love the pattern in the centers. I'm actually thinking how good that seat might look without the headrest, for a conv. !!.... Didn't the original versions have a plastic back to the seat and headrest area?

The seats are out of a 2008 C6, just cut down 3.0".

These in my 66 may give you and idea how 2008 C6 seats would look in a convertable cut down to C2 seat height. Only thing I wished I had done was not make the bottoms look like 67 stock seat bottoms, but left them original.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA260330.jpg

============================
Those seats look awesome. A couple Questions:

1) What kind of pice range should we expect to pay for these?

2) How much do they weigh?

Thanks, You Ride Rules!!

Ty

Ty,

Before they were cut down, after, or total?::rofl:

I'm a believer in not doing/using something you are not satisfied/pleased with the first time around on any purchase. Cheap is just cheap and will always gnaw at you.

The seats in both my cars were purchased back in 2008, so I expect price I paid back then would be more than if I were to purchase them today. The seats in the 64 cost me $200.00 more than the ones in the 66. The 64's were stripped out of a brand new 2008 C that was purchased to be raced, while the 66's were out of a wrecked 2008 Z.

1. Used C5 seats would be slightly cheaper than C6 ones.

2. I believe C5 seats are both easier and cheaper to cut down & reupholster Vs C6 due to back design.

3. I've never weighed the 66's seats, but if you use the stock manual seat tracks that come with some of them, I think they would weigh about the same as stock seats are maybe a little less.

You asked for a square answer, but you got waltzed around instead.:D

Corner weights on the 66 or 450 lbs lighter than the 64. If you look at post on corner weight you will see I added most of that extra weight to rear of 64. If I had use a tube frame I would have had to added weight to front end to get the same nearly 50/50% Front to Rear weight, and then car would have been 200 lbs heavier than it is.

Could have used a Cast iron engine to do that.

So if you are worried about weight, coner weight the rolling chassis with engine and trans installed so you know what the Front to Rear weight spread of it is. Then weigh it with body on to see how it changes front to rear spread. That way you might be able to shift some weight to the rear as you finish up your GS.

I moved my battery to behind the seat of the 64, but it only weighs 14 Lbs. 14 Lbs battery might be and option for ypu to offset weight of another item. If I had known corner weight as I went, I could have put it on the left front like an A/C C2 has and made corner weight even closer to 50/50%.

==============================
poorhousenext:

Sorry the questions were unclear. When I asked:

1) What kind of price range should we expect to pay for these?

2) How much do they weigh?

I thought it would be inferred that I was referring to the cost of the completed seat as shown in your car, which would be the price to acquire the seats, the price to cut them down, and the cost to recover them.

As far as weight, I thought that was pretty straight forward. Even a WAG would be fine. I have seen some of the "Style" Recaro's with all the bells and whistles and they were really heavy, but extremely comfortable.

Other seats that were more basic were ridiculously light, I just didn't have and idea what a cut down Stock Corvette Seat would weight as I still haven't completely chosen what I want to put in the GS.

Take care,

Ty

Do you have details of what you did to mount the C5 seats to the body? What did you use for seat adjuster?

tyoneal;1579626676]==============================
poorhousenext:

Sorry the questions were unclear. When I asked:

Ty you were clear.

Like I said in post, I waltzed you around on the answer.

1) What kind of price range should we expect to pay for these?

I thought it would be inferred that I was referring to the cost of the completed seat as shown in your car, which would be the price to acquire the seats, the price to cut them down, and the cost to recover them.

I'm not up on prices of seats C6 or C5

I also don't track cost of what I spend on either car, and cost varies from area to area when it comes to interior work based on the quality of work they do.

I do not like to quote cost I have in anything. I try to spend as little as possible, but if it comes down to going cheaper over what I think makes the car look better, I will and do pay the higher cost.

2) How much do they weigh? As far as weight, I thought that was pretty straight forward. Even a WAG would be fine. I have seen some of the "Style" Recaro's with all the bells and whistles and they were really heavy, but extremely comfortable.

I don't know as I've never weighed them or stock seats either. My SWAG would be about the same or little less than stock seats, from picking both up.

I thought it would be inferred that I was referring to the cost of the completed seat as shown in your car, which would be the price to acquire the seats, the price to cut them down, and the cost to recover them.

Hope you understand.

The seats are C6 on both cars. The seats in the 64 are mounted using the C6 seat rails as is, no change so we could use the bracket covers to cover them. We did add a steel plate to bottom of floor pan to strengthen it more.

The 66 we drilled the back brackets off, ground down surface and mounted bracket on top side of seat rail to gain extra 1/4" of head clearance.



I have seen both C6 and C5 seats mounted to stock front seat mounting holes by drilling out rivets that hole the foot on and turning them inboard to seats. I believe they tabbed the rear so they could pickup stock rear holes.

Jere, I have a trivial question for you that jumps out to me when I noticed it. The only thing on the dash that's not red or sliver colored is the black faceplate for the stereo. Could you not paint it either of those colors to fit in perfectly? And the control box behind the wheel as well? :thumbs: