Very impressive........ when you are done you will have one sharp, good looking one off custom C2 with a look that many have only been able to dream of. :thumbs:

I looked to see if you shared the any information such as manufacture's name of the wheels you are using but all I found was that they were "loaned from a camaro" ....... sorry if I missed a post that gave that info

Do you have a link to their manufacture or are they too a custom one off production?

Thanks in advance

Doug

I had to do a search on thread by manufacturer's name to find it myself....Lol. Only mention it once in a reply to member here and it would be easy to miss.

Want to guess who my reply was to?

Probably why you missed and it was impossible for me to find without using Search Posts....LOL

In case anyone else was interested in who made them I upped the text size, put in bold and changed the text color to red, to give manufacture a plug.

All the body mods done, with exception of the lower fender vent, were done to fit the 4.0" of exposed hoop on rear wheel.

http://www.schottwheels.com/wheels.cfm

Yikes.......... I am busted.........:o

Ever heard of "sometimers"

(I really do like those wheels though)

Doug

Looking great:thumbs:
Any thoughts of the the colour we talked about?

I dropped by Dealership in Knoxville as they have Boxer in color. It just did not seem appropriate for car.

Decided the VW Antigua Blue while being flashy, would be like painting a Ferrari Baby Blue. Saw one in that color parked at hotel in Bucharest in 2007.

Shop ask if I would go with Lyndal Blue with maybe some pearl added to give it a little more sparkle when you get close to car.

everyone knows that all Corvettes are red.....anything else is just a mistake.....:thumbs:

Daytona Blue?

I want to be noticed, instead of not SEEN. Read that Red was one of the hardest colors to see. Thats why they are involved in a lot of accidents.

I've had 2 Red cars. My 63 1/2 Fastback Ford was hit seven times in 2 years. It was only moving one of those times. My Red 66 was envolved in an accident in 1969. That was before I bought it in 1992.

Not thanks, on Red, I'd reather take the heat from the people who think Corvettes should be Red...;)

Zora knew the right color for a Vette, BLUE...:;)

Saint, my 64 came from the factory dressed out in Daytona Blue, then someone re-painted it White.

OK, I'll bite,

What color are you going with on the stinger? and is it safe to assume you are going with Daytona Blue? (Probably never safe to assume with you:rofl:)

What Trans did you finally end up with?

Since I am a quite low key individual, I am planning on painting the 64 restomod Atomic Orange with a cashmere interior, still mulling the outline for the 65-66 BB hood bulge. Your thoughts?

Thought I had cleared up the Paint question by saying I was going back to original paint choice. Course it's a long time till April...:D

I'll even float the VW color to see what people think...;)

VW Crossover Antigua Blue. Stinger would have been Light VW Silver.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P2200215.jpg

I Flashed the Audi R8 Daytona Gun Metal & 67 Stinger, Audi Quartz Gray.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P2260232.jpg
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P2260230.jpg

I'm holding off doing a test fit of 4L80E to see if the 4L80E based trans is doable until body is finished. That added Scope Creep is waiting TBD.

I do think Atomic Orange will looks good on your 64 vert restomod as it livens up a 64 Body's look. Your interior color will help with that too. I'm assuming you will use a tan color top, maybe even C1 color, or stayfast tan depending on which matches your interior color best.

I'll respond to my thoughts on 66 BB hood striping in separate post or might need to respond to it on a separate thread.:D

My thoughts on a C2's body design and 66-67 BB hoods that this old Farm Boy has developed from doing my project will probably upset the entire C2 community.

I'm not sure if people have really taken a good long look at C2's body. I know I hadn't until working with a rendering of one. I had just gone along with the "Flow";)

Of all the mods I've done to car, my exhaust choice will probably be the most controversial one to most. You'll either like it or hate it.

I got lucky, are maybe not lucky and was able to pick up a set of C6 Z06 3.0" Billy Boat Fusion NPP mufflers on C6 Parts for sale forum. Gentleman on Board sold them to me at a bargain price that included shipping, to use on project.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P2270091.jpg

Had no idea if they could be fitted are not. The BB Fusion NPP's are about a third smaller than GM's stock NPP mufflers so there was a chance there was enough room to fit them and still get 3.0" pipe out the back and turn down to go under axle without restricting exhaust flow.

There was also the question if there was enough room between the Bumpers to fit the 4 exhaust Tips between. The tips are double wall, so they are huge. Maybe just a tad to large.

So we could get the exhaust panel finished up, I took the Boats up to shop last week so they could see if they would fit.

Shop cut the exhaust pipes off them as C6 exhaust goes over axle and my exhaust has to go under axle.

Using mechanic's wire, they were hung in place to see if they would fit between bumpers and in space where spare tire tub used to reside. Once they found they would fit, they cut exhaust panel to fit over them. Then took 4 pictures an emailed them to me to see what I thought. I went up Wednesday to see them in person and give ok to proceed are not.

Only tag I had laying around to use to make sure it would clear.;)

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...BBexhaust1.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...BBexhaust2.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...BBexhaust3.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...BBexhaust4.jpg

To me, they make the rear look wider and the 4 tips seem to complement the 6 taillights and wider tires.

The tips being as large as they are, bothered me some, although at least to me, gave the car an attitude that is toward the mean side so that when younger generation sees car from behind and sees the exhaust, they will know it's not their Grandpa's old Corvette.

I gave the ok to proceed with installation, an today when I went up to pay the piper we work out exhaust panel cut out look and spacing.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P3120255.jpg

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Here are some pictures of Bumpers prior to plating. Have to say GM seemed to have used +/-1/4" tolerance on bumper's mounting brackets. I had access to 2 sets of stock rears, and one set of GM licensed repos. No two mounting brackets were in same mounting plane. There would be two or more 1/8" in or out of where mounting surface should be. Problem is trying to deal with ones that were out past the top edge of bumper. You can shim the ones that are in too far, but you either have to live with bumper standing off body to far, are cut them and weld them back in so bumpers fits body correctly.

Probably not a problem with NCRS restorations, but for me they made car look bad, so we used the repo ones and cut the brackets and welded them so bumpers mounted to body as designed, without the +/- 1/4" tolerance swings. Bumpers had to be re-chromed anyway, because we had to make pie cuts in them fit.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P3050236.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P3050237.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P3120258.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P3120262.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P3120263.jpg

Below are a few miscellaneous pictures of door being faired in to new Rocker Panel, and PJ measuring Spears because I told him I could see the center one was mislocated 1/16" off to high from bottom one, so it wasn't centered between the other two. He didn't believe I could see 1/16" error, so he measured, an then corrected it....LOL

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P3120267.jpg

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http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P3120275.jpg

This is on good looking car.
In fact i have been thinking more and more of Daytona Blue and think that would look great.Glad i dont have to decide:)

About the exhaust somehowe i like it very good but makes me think a little of "The fast and the furious".i think the pipes are a little to big.
How could you see the 1/16" error?
Always great to read and see pictures of this car:)
Keep up the good work my friend:thumbs::)

Paint Choice is a real problem for me. Hardest decision to make, I've faced with car.

Top that off with thoughts of trying to do pick Stinger Stripe color that works with Primary Color, and still follow Gm's practice of using same color in cars interior. Picking that color makes decision even harder if you follow GM's practice.

We agree tips are a tad big. Single wall smaller tips would probably look better, but they kind of grow on you, the more your look at them.

Shop owner wasn't too keen on them at first either, until he started working on exhaust panel. They have grown on him to point he thinks they fit in with his vision of the Body modernizations done.

Exhaust is off a C6 Z06 Corvette, so I stayed in cars family with it... It's a wannabe Z06 car.;) Nissan Z car has same size tips, just 2 on each side of car.

Car being a Restomod, too me means using design and customizing of current generation of Car people, even some Fast & Furious looking touches is acceptable.

The one area that I could have gone more modern with, was Wheel design and larger diameter, that has a Real Fast and Furious Look/Design. There I chose to try and retain a more Retro Look designs of 60's and more rubber showing by using smaller wheel diameters, Taller Tires and exposed wheel hoop than that crowd does, are late model Corvettes do.

As for being able to see 1/16", my background and training is in manufacturing area where tolerances are held to +/- .000 or +/-.0000 with Tooling Tolarance only being allowed to use max of 1/2 of engineering tolarance.

1/16 of an inch stands out like a sore thumb to me. I told Shop owners from beginning I would be able to see all their Body Work errors.

Look close at picture, and you should be able to see that distance between Center Spear and Lower Spear is 1/8 inch greater than that of center spear and upper spear. That means Center Spear needs to be moved down 1/16 inch to center up Center Spear between them. That 1/8" should jump out at you...:D

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P3120275.jpg

Believe me, I can look at either side of a car and start pointing out the differences from side too side.

Friday, owner told me he was going to put me in "Time Out" if I told him his body work was off one more time...:willy::willy::willy::toetap:

[QUOTE=Poorhousenext;1573409028]

Look close at picture, and you should be able to see that distance between Center Spear and Lower Spear is 1/8 inch greater than that of center spear and upper spear. That means Center Spear needs to be moved down 1/16 inch to center up Center Spear between them. That 1/8" should jump out at you...:D

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P3120275.jpg

The middle spear needs to balance the others out.:eek:They are in the finishing
part which is has the most detail.Their art is incredable.The time spent and ingenuity is awesome.I'm not cretiqing...

Wow
 

All I can say is WOW! What an incredible undertaking. I have been trying to get mine together for two years and hopefully will complete it in the next few months. I would never be able to finish one like yours with that kind of modification and planning. The ingenuity of the members on this board is amazing. Truly impressive...good job. :thumbs:

Roy

[QUOTE=VetteRed1965;1573410250]Critiquing is good. Saying what one dislikes are thinks needs to be changed I welcomed too. Thats how things get improved.

Just maybe the Redneck way some of the mod were done will encourage some people who are talented enough to do their on body work to duplicate the mods they liked on their current are maybe next build.

By the way, PJ didn't believe what he saw on the Tape measure, so he got a set of Calipers out to check to see if my eyeballs were that good...:rofl:

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P3120287.jpg

Sneak preview of car in primer. In fact this may be sneak preview of car painted.

Car was taken to Corvette Expo as display to show off Shop's body work and people seemed to like "That Final Paint"...LOL.

It seemed to give the car flat paint Hot Rod look. Heck we all stated to think, shoot flat clear on it and call it done...:rofl:

Think the 4 Boom Cans on rear help out with the Hot Rod look.:thumbs:

Booth was on aisle next to car show, so it stood out like a Black Eye on a contestant at Beauty Pageant when compared to all those flashy painted cars in next aisle over.

It just may be that matted/flat clear will be shot over the primer as final paint. We are going to shoot a test panel next week to see how it turns out...;)

First photos were taken Wednesday evening before car was to be taken to expo on Thursday. Rear bumpers were suppose to have been delivered that morning. The last three were taken at Expo on Thursday as bumpers arrived just prior to shop leaving to go set up their booth.

I got to see the bumper in person today and Knox Custom Chrome did and outstanding job of welding, grinding and re-plating the Bumpers. I didn't think they could pull it off.

People's reaction to car was very positive. I was surprised at number of people who were taking pictures of an uncompleted car and close ups of the wheels.

Even more surprising was interest in purchasing body panels by shops that do restomod builds and several individuals.

If I seem like I'm bragging, I probably am, but I was truly amazed today by interest shown in car. Not something I'm used to.

Shop owner and his son were just beaming with pride as people asked about what all had been done and how it was done. They were smiling all day.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN6186.jpg

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Very cool! Needs a set of "steam rollers" in back to complete the effect.

Looking great!

One badass lookin' 'Vette:thumbs::cheers::cool:

Nice Work.

Its looking superb:thumbs::)
Go for that colour we spoke of:thumbs:

I really liked how the shop did the lower rockers...

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN6205.jpg

some of the angles made me think a bit and I remembered that you have the wider fenders on the front and that was what caused the slight kick out of the rocker in the front. They did a very nice job of blending the different areas....

I think you need to get used to getting comments on the car, it is really turning out nicely!:thumbs:

Work done to front fender exaggerated the existing kick out in a stock front fender. Stock rear quarter also kicks out.

You don't notice it that much because of the rounded design that tucks front fender, door and quarter panel back in toward the frame. That allowed GM to get away with a straight backed rocker panel with embossed front to extend it out, as body over hang at front and rear is not that noticeable that way.

If Designer had faired the fender, door and quarter panel into the rocker panel you would have noticed a kick out at front and rear of stock bodied car.

The stretching we did of rear quarter, lower door skin from rear to middle of car, and to front fender really caused the body to hang out over a stock straight rocker panel, leaving us no choice but to fair qtr pnl, door and front fender into a new rocker panel formed to match the new lower contour of the three.

Maybe you can see the slight front fender overhang of straight rocker panel in below picture.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...tingray-42.jpg

You can see from rendering that we recognized it would be a problem from day one. Question was, could we fair the bottom of the doors into rocker without making them standout by being fatten up on lower bottom edge of door and stand out when door is open.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...endering-2.jpg

Probably should not have pointed that out as most would never notice if I had not mentioned. Not something other than a body man would have been checking out...;)

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN6163.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...P1220162-1.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN6162.jpg

This will be my last update until car is finished.

We did a test fit of 4L80E transmission to see if it was practical to replace 4L65E I had planned to use. The 4L80 is a behemoth of a trans. Weighs around 225 Lbs with converter.

With the 4L80s capability to handle 850 plus HP or more built, it will allow me to upgrade engine to any configuration I want later on.

It's design also allows for different 1-4 gear ratios to better match engines Torque band for street, autocross, road track or strip, are even more gears too.

The fitments was better than I had imagined.
Due to it having a longer pan than 4L65E we thought there might be interference issue with its longer pan and floor pan. No issue with that.

We do have one issue that from research seem to be a common issue when swapping trans into most cars. That of either one are both of two bell housing ears on sides hitting body. These ears are not needed on most swaps, so they are removed. Also found webbing running down back of bell housing close to touching transmission tunnel. That will need to be trimmed down to make sure it doesn't contact tunnel.

Because of its longer pan and rear mount location being around 6 3/4 inches aft of 4L65 mount location, transmission cross-member will need to be modified by cutting out center to clear pan and adding a U shaped section that will clear pan to allow cross-member to be installed in stock location and provide bracket to mount rear of trans.

4L65 to 4L80 comparison.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...mage_large.jpg

Measurements

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...conversion.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4020308.jpg

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http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4020313.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4020314.jpg

We will attempt one more body modification Monday to see if it's piratical to do are too costly. I've seen it done before, but we will be trying to do it using parts from C6, rather than custom made parts that require a lot of layout work and math. We want to see if we can avoid most of that work, so it can be done by anyone if they should want to.

Awsome car and great thread! :cool::thumbs:

Great car and great thread thats for sure:thumbs:

Did you consider using the 200-4r? They are built to with stand 700lb of torque fairly easy.

Thanks for posting a great project!
 

Thanks for putting up this post - a great project! I do however support painting it some other color than the primer gray. Makes it look too much like a rat rod, and you've got way too much work into it to be a rat. A nice shiney color of your choice -MMMMMMMMMMMMM :cool:

Engine is crate LS3 480HP computer controlled and DBW.
I planned on using built 4L65 with 70E ISS conversion that could handle 650 HP, Again computer controlled.

200-4R is manual controlled. At time I went with 4L65E, there was no way to attach cable to throttle body and there still may not be.

The 4L80E being electronic allows for tuning shift point and other functions to be changed to match the engine's power band. You can program trans shifting to match strip, auto-cross, road track or street. Also can add a manual valve body that makes downshifts like a manual.

4L80E design allows for planetary gear changes that can split gears, like GearVender Underdrive/Overdrive unit does, so you don't need another unit. Want give you 8 forward gears like GearVender unit, but you can pick up a couple extra for better gear spacing. This goes back to strip, auto-cross, road track versatility.

I want to make the car multi dimensional and see I if an Automatic can get a little respect from the two legged Sport car drivers....;)

If I can match up car's HP/TQ, weight, etc. with correct STR (Stall Torque Ratio) and Stall speed compromise for applications I mentioned, I believe I can give them fits and gain respect for the lowly Automatic...:thumbs:

PS: Maybe Ray's marriage could be saved if he had an Automatic instead of Manual Trans with one of those Darn Clutches he posted about loving awhile back.:o No one legged trans for him back then....:rofl:

Ray, if that pressure plate they sold you was not new but rebuilt with plate resurfaced/cut down, that could be part of your problem, are another clutch problem shortly if you drive the car hard.
Never, Never buy a remanufactured pressure plate from Auto Parts Store.:ack:

Test panel with Flat Clear paint shot over the primer didn't turn out that good. Added to much sheen. Also the Primer scuffs to easily so you have to make sure nothing touches it before are while painting.

Could have tried matching color to one of the Flat paints to try and get same or similar color but not practical.

We did try Flat clear over current paint of choice to see what that looked like, but it caused the paint to go too dark and forget any metallic look to it. Used old hood for that $421.00 per quart test...LOL

Lack of shine/sheen to body does show off cars lines better than that of shinny cars. We saw that at EXPO as car show was right across from booth.

I saw this car in person at Corvette Expo. All I can saw is WOW!!! Looks even better in person which is rare and not what I was expecting.

Very, very cool and definitely first class work with attention to detail. :thumbs:

Looks like Corvette Forum lost some of the post to thread, including the one where I said i was not going to update it again until car was finished.

May be a good thing. Now members will not know I've lied by adding some pictures of a couple of updates to car....lol

First is exhaust. Wanted exhaust to be 3.0" from header's collector all the way back to where exhaust exits mufflers. 3.0" could be a little big for CI and HP of engine and hurt it's performance, but want know for a while if thats true.

We took car over to Craig's Hotrods in Knoxville to have him do exhaust couple of months ago. First problem we ran into was with emergency cable routing. We had to move emergency cable bell crank up along with cables where we had routed them thru the frame at rear axle so we could get the 3.0' oval exhaust pipe use to provide 3/4" more ground clearance tucked as tight as possible to floor pan.

To get a more ground clearance where exhaust goes under firewall require reworking header to fit 3.0" round to oval transition so that the 3.0" pipe transitioned to oval (2 1/4" tall) where it started under the floor pan and would be tight to floor pan from firewall back to rear end cross-member.

The mufflers are Billy Boat Z06 NNP Fusions that a gentleman on this Forum sold to me at a bargain price that included shipping, are they wouldn't be on car. I really appreciated that.

The BB Fusion's are a little lighter than stock GM NPP mufflers, so instead of weighing in at 56 lbs, they only weigh 49.75 LBS. At least the extra weight compared to standard mufflers is at rear of car...:rofl:

The NPP feature is controlled by after market electronic unit made by Forum member and Sponsor here, Sunset Orange Creations. It allows me to open the open/close valves to bypass the muffler an go straight through, rather than use factory rpm controlled GM vacuum unit that would have presented me with more of a problem to fit.

Sunset Orange's electronic module allows me to control bypass valve from inside the car with one of the 4 rocker switches on car's dash or from outside the car with a RF switched key fob at any rpm from idle up, instead of GM unit that had set vacuum/RPM setting.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PA250315.jpg

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Thanks so much for the update, you knew I would be on here. I really like this car, would love to see it in person, when you get it back, maybe we will cross paths at some show, I'm not a big waxer, but admire others efforts.

Any ETA on when you will have the car back in your possession?

Thanks,
R.J.
ps, only update I got was a call from the motor builder, not done, waiting on parts back from the machine shop.

R.J.,

I'll have an update on fresh air/cold air induction final non PCV system I promised later on today. As always it will be a little too wordy...lol

ETA wise, I was hoping to have car finished already and plan was to bring it down to "Old Town NCRS Meet" 26-29 of January for coming out party.

I wanted to get a feel for NCRS members thoughts on changes to body and car in general, either positive or negative. Original Goal was to try and make the car imitate the look of what might have been a GM design wide body Concept that would have replaced the 63-67 body, for 1968 and up.

That want happen. We had already disassembled and stripped car in preparation for body lift prior to taking car over to have the cold air intake made. That will explain why you may see engine's wire harness laying on top of engine in one of the pictures I may post.

Body will be removed today so it can be stripped and re-painted.

Now you understand why I know how you feel about having a major setback to your project's ETA. By the way, paint problem was not due to Shop doing work.

Wow. I am not sure which part I like best. At first it was the tires and now that exhaust looks so good. I can't wait to see it finished.

R.J., AKA "Beach Dude asking for more pictures of my attempt at trying to feed Cold/Fresh outside to engine is reason for both updates.

Goal was to try and supply Fresh air to engine. That was one thing I really wanted to do. When I saw Jeff, AKA 1cool67 fresh air system, I wanted to do the same thing. Very neat system, but it requires hood to be lifted out of opening, instead of opening down into opening. That is a cool feature that along is an eye catcher that gets people over to look at his car.

I even contacted Jeff about the Hinges he had made, and about other problems he had encountered fitting Air Cleaner for C6 Z06. Because 63-65 radiator supports mount at different angle than 66 & 67, that would have required more development work to fit a Z06 aftermarket breather. He told me another member was looking to add fresh air system by using design similar to 63-65 FI breather.

Problem with using 63-65 FI type system is trying to get enough filtered air flow (CFM) to support LS3 376 CI or larger engine. With one pipe, pipe has to be at least 4.0" in Dia you quickly run into problems trying to fit it in space available.

My hope is that I get an added benefit of two tubes vs one, being that neither filter will ever have air being pulled through it at it's max CFM. I'm hoping this helps with both air filtration and not pulling a lot of moisture in when driving in rain. To help keep moisture out, I also have K&N Dryfilter covers use on personal water craft air filters to help keep water out of engine.

First thing I had to do was find a filter that could flow at least 600 CFM and had a 3.0" dia outlet, that would fit and not hit headlight assemblies. I can remember time Filter makers listed CFM of their filters on their web site. Seems that's in past and trying to get that info out of them on CFM was like pulling teeth unless I knew filters part number. Not a fan of K&N filters, but finally got a person there that help me.

To see if the K&N filter would fit, we made a simple cardboard mock-up of it to see if there was space to fit it. Next we made a trip to Lowes and picked up some elbows and straight 3.0" PVC pieces. There is a problem if using PCV because it's wall is a lot thicker than metal tubing with same 3.0" ID and bends have a larger radius. That caused us to do some unneeded trimming to fit it, Vs what we were able to do with metal tubing with tight U-Bends on end product. So if you want to try and do this on your car, try to use 3.0" metal tubing bends if possible.

My radiator not being stock, but made for LS engine conversions may have made fitment easier than if your using a stock radiator.

AC hose routing could be a problem for some. While I'm using aftermarket AC kit on car, we did not use the hoses and tubes supplied that are routed over are through radiator support. Mine are routed different in effort to try and make for a neater/cleaner engine compartment.

If you do decide to try this, just remember that the Hood has to be removed to service the filters. You may not have noticed I use breakaway hinges to make it easier to work on engine if need be.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN6561.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC140368.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC140359.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC140358.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC140357.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/PC140354.jpg

My favorite thread without a doubt:):flag:

jkuzzy,

Talk about a put down...lol My feeling are hurt.:)

First it was the Nitto 550 tires you liked. Makes me wish I hadn't spent so much for the wheels the Nitto's are mounted on.:lol:

Now your torn between them and the exhaust, that's hard to see with car sitting low to ground.:rolleyes:

Well at least your view has started looking up wards. Maybe the interior will win you over even if body changes didn't....:D

PS: Time to go take another anti-depressant pill...:leaving:

Outstanding air intake system!!! The fabrication is super clean....I like it!! :thumbs: Your project has come A LONG WAY, I really enjoy the updates and pics. Thanks for sharing.

R/
Jeff

LOL...Now you hit me with the air intake setup. Man, completely sick!
Honestly, I think I would stick with the original pvc setup. Of course that is just me....:willy:

This car is looking so great:thumbs:

The welds on the exhaust and on the air intake looks so good:thumbs:

ttt
 

Man both of the cars are just one he** of a ride.. I am sure you are going to have fun in them this coming summer...:cool::cool:

very nice set up. jim

I like your cold air intake. Very nice job.

Jim

:)

Thought I would go ahead an leak a few more changes we made.

So I can use both a taller and/or wider tire on front, we modified the inner fenders so that the frame and not inner fenders set the limit to tire width and tire height that can be used.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...P7060101-1.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P7060105.jpg

Interior wise, one thing I always thought looked cheap was how badly the speak grill fit dash. Had the grill flushed to dash.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8270230.jpg

Decided to do what GM did in 1968, added hinged storage cover behind seat and leveled it out to match heigth of rest of rear storage area, since the aftermarket frame I'm using, Street Shop's does not require the rear floor pan to be modified to except frame. This plus to use wider tires and wheels, we widen the body instead of moving frame rails in and tubbing the floor pan to fit them.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P7230130.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8270224.jpg

Thanks to all for your replies and interest in project.

Wow, I really like those fat fenders. :cool:

I am actually trying to figure this one out now. How did you set up the hinge? Can you pm me some pics of the lid/hinge? Will the carpet be one piece or a seam at the hinge? Friggin awesome!
:cheers:

some really nice fabricating going on with this car.....I look forward to when you unveil the whole car completed!:thumbs:

I'll just go public on this. I know it's not what you want to hear.

I don't have any pictures of the hinges, and not likely to any time soon. Reason is, as I posted earlier, the car had to be completely disassembled.

The hinges are made from one form a 1967 Chevy Impala station wagon that covered the rear area if car did not have 3rd seat option. It's heavy piano hinge.

I have no idea if the shop that will be doing the interior will do one piece or seamed. We've never discussed that kind of detail.

I only explained what features I wanted added, and he gave me his ideas of what he wanted to do with interior.

I just don't want the interior to have a cheap look to it. I want it to have and upscale European sport touring car of 64-70 era look, but with a very modern ergonomic steering wheel and seats...LOL

I may regret it, but interior color choices were theirs. I'm not sure about the carpet color to rest of interior color either...:o

Car is 64, but I took a page out of GM styling book and took liberties with interior.
Sliver faced 65-67 gages, interior color matched gage cluster and glove box door. 67 dash knobs. Three of the four rocker switches in dash are transmission feature controls.

Took what I liked of any year, except rear view mirror is from a 1970 C3 so I could color match it exterior plastic trim to interior.:D I have no shame...lol

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P9170281.jpg

By the way, good thing I was thinking ahead since there are 3 pieces of electronic equipment mounted behind dash were the radio was, I had them make the Dash removal by using button head allen screws, instead of rivets to hold it in place. Good thing too, it's now out for the second time...

Jere, You and your builders have so many great idea's, some times I hesitate to look at your pics, I keep reminding myself mine is a budget build, but some of your ideas are so usable and cool. Keep them coming.

R.J.

Thanks for the info! This is a way cool build!

Who manufactures the wheels? Were they custom made or available as a production style ? They look great !!

The wheels are made by Schott Performance Wheels. Modsport K.O. ( knock-off option). The car was built around those wheels. ALL the wide body work front and rear was done just so we could establish offset that allowed 4.0" inches of exposed hoop on rear ....LOL

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...W_1639_500.gif

Your car is amazing, not to mention the skill, forethought, patience and time required to bring a rendering to fruition. I'm looking forward to seeing it when completed. :cheers: Dennis

:iagree: 100%

:iagree::iagree:

Jere, The Vette is looking awsome. I bet the guy you bought it from wishes he had it back. Looking like that.

Mark,

You always hope you did the right thing.

I hope the former owner along with it's owner before him that found it sitting in a barn for so many years would love to have it back when it's finished.

I know the gentleman that found it in that barn had hopes of possibly making it into a Grand Sports look alike prior to having to change his plans due to health from copies of pictures given to me when I bought it.

While it's no Grand Sport I hope he would be proud of what B Rod or Custom an I have done with it. What we did to the body has it roots in Privateer/Vintage Corvette Racing. The picture below was just one of the one used to come up with body's concept.

In fact it is the one that showed Larry Burchett, shop owner he could cut the door skin and move it outward to match coverage the stock body's provides with a stock tire.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...tforcars-1.jpg

The Factory could have done it with their race cars, instead of cutting and flaring the fenders like they did. Body will fit right over those wheels and tires and probably have a lot less aerodynamic drag than how they did it. It would have been simple for GM to make it a production model option.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h..._sebringgr.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h..._sebringwh.jpg

Anyway, my arm's tired from patting myself on the back, so thanks for wishing it could be in your garage.;)

Since it has been a couple of months since the last update I saw I was wondering if Poorhousenext's project has been finished yet.

Sadly, the answer is "No". Back on Page, 7, post # 135 I mention car had to be completely disassembled and paint striped back to body.

What posts, I've made since back in August, were just of things we could do while trying to figure out what happen that caused paint to separate between coats. That was exposed by a simple problem to figure out how it happened.

All fingers were pointed at painter. Info to me didn't jive, but it wasn't until I showed a sample of delaminated paint to and old painter that saw something everyone else missed, and laying out timeline of how car was painted and material, along with door jams not having same problem led to me not allowing car to be repainted till we could make sure it didn't happen again.

What that old painter saw was the paint separated between the 2nd coat of color and 3rd and final coat color, not between clear and color coats.

With the help of a major manufacture of laser measuring equipment, and the help of a couple of Car Guys from Engineering Department of local University we have a good idea of what and why it happened and where the fault lay.

The car was repainted, Tuesday, March 29 after being striped and re-blocked smooth again. Hope to start reassembly as soon as paint is buffed out.

Shop doing work has eaten all the cost of repainting and will until car is back to condition of assembly it was prior to discovery of problem(s).

Was Shop the cause of problem? My finding didn't point to them. It's in their hands if they want to take the data and try to recover their loss.

I bypassed who I believed caused delaminating problem.

Shop, told me they had never seen a customer so clam, who's only concern was trying to figure out what caused the problem so it didn't happen again. It was truly a heart breaking event for both me and shop.

I'm beyond trying to figure out just when car will be complete.

I had hopes of it being ready this year for Nashville GoodGuys show last of May, but don't think we will make it as mechanic setup and my lack of seat time in it needed for Auto Crossing event even if we get her completed.

Next want to try and make date would be Columbus Ohio GoodyGuys show in July.

Both of those, I have been offered free transportation to and from...LOL

Man, that stinks. Judging from your name though, you seem to know what you were getting into.
I assume you have a good reason for not divulging what the problem was, but Im sure everyone would like to know to possibly help others when you feel you can divulge it.
Best of luck. You will get there someday.

:iagree:

Many paint manufacturers have warranties in place for product failure, I would presume your shop would have been in touch with them. It totally sucks that you and the shop have to go through the problems and work again though.

I was thinking of sending you a pm, have not seen much from you. Hang in there Buddy, I am thinking of you.

R.J.

way cool :thumbs:

I was wondering what happened to the most anticipated project on here?

I thought maybe your avatar name had come true, haha!
Bummer on the paint man, looking forward to the next episode.....:rock:
:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

We were in touch with paint Manufactor, an they sent Rep down to look at it. Rep took a sample to have analyzed, and report result back to us.

He never even had the courtesy to even call Shop and tell them results, much less in writing. He did call local suppliers Rep and tell him clear coat was to thick, quoting same Mil thickness as local Rep's hand held thickness gun read, 12.5 Mils.

Three separate samples from different sections of car, measured 6.7 Mil average thickness when measured with Laser equipment in lab. That was about the same as I got with micrometer.

Between the 2nd and 3 coats of color, local supplier had to replace 1st gallon of paint because the blue pearl would nor stay suspended and was clumping in gun and filter. Second gallon did not do that.

When sample of paint from each gallon and one from a quart they mixed last, none of 3 had the same proportions of ingredients. One even had one ingredient missing. Components of each were all over the place.

We also are having sample of paint used to repaint car analyzed to see if it matches any of the paint mixed by original local supplier.

The original paint looked great, and was very moody like a woman. :D Moody paint shows off bodylines due to way it refracts light. I hope the re-paint does too, just hope all coats adhears to each other this time.:toetap:

Thanks for the update Poorhousenext. Your project is one that I truly look forward to seeing when it is completed as you have put a lot of thought into the finished product. Also, you appear to have done a very thorough analysis of your paint situation. The company I work for experienced a problem with what appeared to be solvent pop when doing topcoat on industrial gear. We chased that issue for two months going thru airlines, filters, pressure the paint was shot at, temperature, contamination in the air, etc. and finally settled on paint being applied too heavy.

I know it's not the same situation as you experienced, but here's a link to how one company explored eliminating solvent pop with heavier paint layer.
http://www.pfonline.com/articles/preventing-solvent-pop

I am sure the new paint will be okay my friend:thumbs:
I really am looking forward to new pictures of the car:thumbs:

who made the paint? did you stay with same paint manufacturer for the repaint?

It's not a question of who made the paint, it's who mixed the paint formula using manufacturer's recommended weight for each ingredient that makes up that formula.

Shop wanted to stay with Manufacture as they have used their paint for years with no problems. They also supply Audi who's paint color I'm using so I agreed to go with them.

My guess, not that it matters is the paint is Glasurit. Very good upper end paint, as far as the formula, I would say mixer error from a overpour of a tinting color, normally there is a correction to add the other tints to bring the formula back to the proper color.

I understand completely the shop wanting to stay with a product they have used for a long time, with the type of work quality they turn out by evidence of your car, let them do what they know to do to correct the car, hopefully the paint manufacturer or the paint supplier store will make right to the shop.

Man you love to read about these projects, but you hate to see issues like this come up.

R.J.

Hate to see this for sure but I am in agreement with RJ here. I am still waiting to come down to chattanooga to see this bad boy for sure...

Robert,

You only have to drive over to Knoxville, to see my Southern Lady. The car is no longer a He. The most male muscle cars ever designed (63-67 Corvette (all angles) now has curves.

Body model for Car:thumbs:

http://i761.photobucket.com/albums/x...phia-loren.jpg

Unbelieveable amount of work, thats a huge commitment.
Keep going, doing an awesome job!

Now then, this explains my fascination with your car! There is no other like Sophia!!

While waiting on car to be repainted, decided it was time to figure out what to do about either going with GM LS Engine covers, to cover the stock valve covers with coils on top, or replacing stock valve covers with taller ones that require coils to be relocated.

GM covers left a lot to be desired, as my alternator is mounted on opposite side, so that left corner of drivers side valve cover and coil exposed. Also that's what most use.

I looked at relocating coils and using aftermarket taller valve covers. But just so tired of trying to hide things, so as usual for me in trying to make car different from the crowd, I decide on a set of valve covers from Katech Performance and use their coil mounting system rather than hide them. Their mounting system just moves coil off valve covers and put them above them.

With anything other than engine covers, I still needed to deal with exposed fuel rails and injector wiring that needed to be hidden from sight. My decision to go with the Katech valve covers made the coils a focus point on engine instead of hiding them. Some may like that, some may not, but it's different from what you most often see with LS engine installs.

I actually started out trying to cover the coils, but that hid the valve covers, so decided to leave them exposed, and just make a set of fuel rail covers instead of engine covers to hide injector and coil wiring.

To see what I was dealing with, I started out with a big piece of cardboard and whittled it down to come up with base coverage size needed. Next had to convey my idea to shop of what I was looking for. That lead to shop's idea to trim and fit an old valve cover area so we had a hard surface to work with. Using valve covers, cardboard and masking tape we came up with a base mold we could layup a part we could work with using bondo to shape it, and then make a mold to make final parts off of.

Worked out that we only needed one mold to make left and right hand parts, even after shop added in the contours around and in between the coils, so they did not look straight and plain. Parts are same except for tab on right hand one use to cover MAP sensor wiring plug.

To me at least, it looks like something GM might have done on a Concept Car.

Started with this as base.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4180432.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4180431.jpg

Next came using the old valve as hard surface to tie things together.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4180430.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4180434.jpg

Add the cardboard to valve cover with masking tape. Paint it black to see if it might work, and then produce fiberglass piece of it to work with to come up with final shape, pickup some stainless Corvette lettering to see how that might add a little pop to covers. Then using bondo come up with final fuel rail cover shape to make a part mold off off. You can see we are trying to make the Fuel Rail covers mounting points look like the ones on the Valve Covers to try and tie the two together.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4180437.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4280442.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4280443.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4280444.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P4280448.jpg

Made a mold, pulled parts off it. Cleaned up the shape on them.
To try and make mounting points look like those on the valve covers, we pulled molds off the valve covers mount points to make 4 pieces to resemble the anodized washers molded in to them.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...railcover1.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...railcover2.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...railcover3.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...railcover4.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P5170461.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P5170462.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P5170458.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P5170460.jpg

So now I have 8 ugly coils sticking out, but the fuel rails, injector and coil wiring are hid.:rofl:

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P5260471.jpg

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...P5260464-1.jpg

PS: Looks a little better in person than in the pictures. Should help when we get letters stuck on.

Looking good:thumbs:

Any updates on the project?

Only update is car want be ready for Carlisle or even Corvette Museum's Anniversary a week later. We were in final assembly stage so car could go to upholstery shop, but I made two more late stage changes that has pushed out car's completion date.

Really wanted to make those events to find out how changes we've made to body and now interior are accepted by the people who know Corvettes. There has been no problem with acceptance from NSRA, GoodyGuys and Pro-Touring etc community as personal customizing of a car is a way of life for them.

Plan was to not stripe the 67 big block hood. Car's paint has such dark to lighter color changes depending on lighting condition I finally caved in and decided hood needed to be striped to break up the color expanse of the front-end and emphasize the paint's color changes. We are three weeks behind in getting that done.

Also waiting on gage cluster to come back from having gage faces changed from stock with just silver faces instead of black, to a more modern look to bring them in-line with the body's modernization.

Going with C6 gage styling slanted numbers instead of stock block numbers and gage faces changed to dulled spun raw aluminum instead of painted.

Also adding Trans fluid temp gage and Radio to center of dash, so that means the Midyear's big "ICONIC" Clock has to be moved lower or scraped to accommodate them.

What I've decided to do may be a real screw up, but rather than do like most and scrap the clock, I kept that big old clock, just relocated it lower. This is the one change to car I expect to take the most heat for doing to a Midyear.

Want know myself how big of a mistake this could be until we get the re-faced clock back and everything in installed. The look of the pattern to cut the openings stuck to dash's center section makes me really nervous, but cutouts to accommodate the changes to dash's center section will be made next week an I'll have to live with this change no matter how bad it turns out.:willy:

The way things look right now, maybe just maybe the car will be at GoodyGuys Charlotte, NC show last weekend in Oct, although I have dates from now through then I would like to display car at should we get car completed sooner.

Also will try to get some members from three different forums that live close enough to come by and check out car as soon as it is finished and maybe get them to post pictures they take of car and give their honest opinion on car's overall look compared to stock body midyear along with what they thought I screwed up by doing. Will try to at least have a stock body convertable to compare car's bodylines to.

Front Spoiler installed, trans cooler and air conditioner lines hooked up and air cleaners installed. Couple of wiring changes needed before we can install headlight assemblies, grill and bumpers.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P7150538.jpg

We are working from front to back buttoning up things, installing new fuel line we just had made since we had to relocate fuel rail's line due to the custom covers.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P7150535.jpg

Wish I was closer, made Carlisle last year, won't this year.

Glad to see it's on the way back together though.

R.J.

R.J.,

Your only 10.5 hours away form Knoxville. Easy day up and easy day back. I've done that on a Motorcycle more than once and when I was still lot older than you....LOL

What about if I move it 3 hours closer to you?

Engine looks awesome! :thumbs:

Did you make the intake tube yourself?

Shop doing the work made mockup for the intake tube. Owner of Craig's HotRods in Knoxville who also did the welding on exhaust welded up the tube. See post 137 on page 7 about intake tube.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/DSCN6561.jpg

The only hard work I do is writhing check to pay for things. I did have a hand in designing some of the things on car and making sure that any ideas are workable. I want take credit for the center dash layout screwup that comming....:D

Love the intake tube. :thumbs: I'll be stealing that design :woohoo:

It looks a lot better in Black PVC pipe!!!:rofl:

You don't have to steal it, everything I've done is glady shared with anyone who wants to give it a go. Thats my purpose for this thread, sharing.

Thanks for the update Poorhousenext. For me, your car is one of the more interesting projects on this forum and I know I speak for others when I say I'm looking forward to photos when it is finally finished.

:iagree:

Super cool!!!!!!!!!!:cool:

So much have been done so for me it is the most interesting project:thumbs:

Someday I will get to see your 2 Ladies, Looking forward to meeting you and your 4 wheeled harem:D

Man was thinking you were going to give me a p.m. in warm weather and a good car show down your way I will drive the 65 down are the c5 just what ever car show are vette club show going on man.... R.J. I will take some pic,s and email to you my friend...:lol: Robert

I'm hetero but I want the body guy.

Guess it's time to try and explain color and/or colors of paint I chose for car. Since I at least like to think car has a modernized look to it, I decided to use a contemporary style new car paint color rather than original or period paint color.

Look of new car paints are more of what you would have called custom paint in the past. Lot of people will think it's a custom mix rather than off the shelf new car paint when they see car in person. Anyone seeing car in pictures will not really have a clue about it's color and/or colors and paints real pop in certain lighting conditions, which I'm sure could make some old timers say "What the Hell was he thinking." Younger generations on the other hand think it just normal paint...:D

Like many new car paints in the past 3-4 years paint I use is Pearlized or what some call prizmatined, (pearl shell color like chips that changes color as light strikes it from different directions). There is also another type of pearl that can be use in even a stock corvette color were color itself is almost the same, it just adds pop to the paint. My 66 paint uses that type pearl to make it pop lighter are darker depending on light.

Some of you may have seen some of the below pictures as I've selectively post some in other threads in effort to try and ease into trying to show some of the color changes.

Going to start trying to educate you on paint with color it can turn both inside and outside when it cloudy or late in day. Color I really hate to see it turn...:ack:

Hood sitting on stand under fluorescent lighting. Ugly flat grey.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8050552.jpg

Hood moved outside in sun. Notice that flat grey has gone to almost black.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8050553.jpg

Hood placed on body. This time if you look a the side of stinger, you can see what was black color in the previous picture has changed to a color similar to color of stripe.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8050574.jpg

Now in this picture you see another shade of grey, but watch what happens when I move and take pictures where direction of light changes and as it does, so does color/shade paint turns.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8130620.jpg

I Changed camera angle of shot and this time body looks Black.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8130599.jpg

I've moved back, used flash and if you look from rear to front, at about start of lower fender vent, you may be able to see paint there is starting to take on a blue tint to it.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8130600.jpg

Now light source that caused that blueish changed in prior picture, is the main light source on this shot of front of car. Now the paint color has changed to a blue.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8130604.jpg

This time with hood up. It's not black or grey color anymore.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8130618.jpg

Now from side angle shot, you can see paint goes from blueish color toward the grey hood was in first picture.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8130606.jpg

Backed away for this last shot.

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...4/P8130623.jpg

So in future when you see a picture of car were the paint is ugly, please don't worry, it can look even worst or maybe even better.:rock:

I am going to go out on a limb here, and be bold enough to ask you what's your estimate of the total investment for the project, finished? I've followed it from the start, and the amount of work in the car is monumental. And, very awesome!:thumbs:

That car is simply awesome in so many ways, nice nice job and lots of thought into it. :thumbs:

VERY well thought out and executed.:thumbs::cool:

Total investment right now is 3 years worth of my Social Security and Retirement checks...:D

Neither are large checks. Didn't work or 9 years in 70's, retired at 58 and started drawing SS at 62 instead of full retirement age, and my retirement check is not that much either even though I worked for company 30 years because I had broken service and first 10 do not count, along being both half that time hourly union, then company Salaried hurt the 20 year amount too.

What Jitmo got for his Restomod at auction would just about cover it's cost. :leaving:

Real nice Poorhouse.

There's something magical and immensly satisfying about building a unique car.
Only those who have done it would truly understand.
I take my hat off to you mate.
Congratulations