Rear wheel bearing replacement
 

I reomved the spindles from my 76 vette to replace bearings and spindles. Not sure if I am to press the bearings on the spindle or in the control arm. When I removed one bearing remained on the spindle and one still in the arm.
can someone point me in the right direction? procedures and pictures? do I need special tools or can I tap in the bearings in the control arm.
Also I am not sure what how to shim as well, is the distance between the spacers? How much shim is needed?
Sorry for the stupid questions, but new at this.

This may be a job you may wish to call the experts in on. There are many vendors here who will rebuild your trailing arms for you or sell you an exchange unit. You do need some special tools to pull the bearings, set up the proper clearance and press the new bearings back on. This is one job that many C3 enthusiasts wish to stay away from. Also if one of your bearings remained on the arm, that indicates that someone may have made some modifications to the spindle as these bearings are pressed on and they do not slide off easily. And no, there are no stupid questions here.

You need to either acquire the tools ( bearing set-up tool, dial-indicator, spindle installation tool, torque wrench, bearing race installation tool, assortment of shims, bearing puller (so you can remove the bearing off of the spindle.)) HOPEFULLY you did damage your spindle when you removed it..because there is a special tool to make sure that your do not damage the threaded end of the spindle.
Or you need to send them off for re-building...or buy a set that is rebiult and send yours in for cores.

This is a very precise procedure...to have it done correctly...but without the correct tools...you are making a BIG MISTAKE!!!

I can rebuild these for you...but it does depend on the condition of the spindle...and whether it is damaged in a way that it will not run-out correctly...due to a damaged flange (where the rotor contacts).

The choice is yours...but do a search on the forum...there is alot of posts dealing with this issue.
YOU MUST have the correct tools if youa re going to do this yourself.
"DUB"

just did one of mine today rgpta, theres no way i could of done it without the tools mentioned above, and my 12ton press. i would send 'em to somebody.

Rear Bearing Blashemy
 

This is one of those subject that C-3 vette owners are passionate about, with little wiggle room. I have replaced the rear bearings on all 4 of my Sharks, using the slip fit method, including my vintage road racer that I regularly take 145 mph plus. This essentially allows you to tighten the rear bearings exactly the way you do the front, on the spindles. No special tools required, just big hammer and cajones when separating the old ones from the trailing arm.
With the trailing arm out and the nut and washer removed, use a 5/8" spark plug socket the fits over the shoulder of the spindle, and beat it out of the inner bearing. Then using a bearing separater, pull the outer bearing off the spindle.
For the new assembly, mark the spindle where the inner bearing will ride, approximately. Using emery board, sand that area down until the inner bearing will just fit over with a little resistance, but still slide on and off. Now, press the new outer bearing on the spindle. I use the old bearing and a piece of pipe, until it is seated on the tapered end of the spindle. Insert this assembly (no spacers or shims needed) through the trailing arm. Now simply put the inner bearing on the spindle and tighten with the washer and nut until the bearing seats and solid friction, then back off a hole, just like a front wheel bearing.
Now you can adjust the run-out to your heart's content. Again, to the purist, this is blashemy, but it works. Good luck, whichever way you go.

Jimbo

Long thread on same subject below, under "why rear bearing spacers"

Not only that but we're also cursed. One of these days you will spontaneously burst into flames. They've been telling me so for years.

I hope you guys used the inner and outer grease seals.

Yea, why wouldn't i ? How dumb do you think i am?

don't answer that.:rofl:

WOW, Slip fit and no spacers, at 145. Hey Y`all git out of the way!

1976 Rear Bearings
 

Hi everyone, what's the word on rear end bearing replacement on the c3s? I've read several post and the job looks scary to say the least. Right now it sounds much harder than replacing the entire hub assembly which I have done on a c4. Has anyone posted instructions with pictures? What about Hawgn68's slip and fit method? Does it work?

Instructions.
 

Thanks. Sounds like rear bearings are bad if there is play from in the tire and assembly from 3 - 9? If we do not have play, is there a way to grease the bearings without removing disassembling?

Those bearings were pressed on for a reason. I had the bearings rebuilt on my vehicle in June by Bairs. I had to buy new spindles because the surface on the spindle was ruined from the bearings being slip fit. Turtlevette, and hawgn 68...... good luck..... your decision to slip fit those wheel bearings will come back to bite you. I had do deal with the consequences from some previous owners decision to take that route. rgpta, I compliment you for tackling this job. But do not slip fit those bearings, you will regret it.

What happens because they're slip fit? I've never heard of anyone having problems.

I rebuilt my T-arms myself, its a very technical job, you NEED the right tools. NEED. But I didn't think it was hard. I got by with a bearing set-up tool, a spindle knocker (instead of a press), and a cheap bearing separator, and I found no need to slip fit.

The bearing set-up tool is worth the money, it allows you to select the right amount of end play without having to press on and press off(and likely destroy) your new bearings.

there are a lot of good posts on here about the subject. All I can say is buy the right tools, remember to put your backing plate on first and on the right side, don't rush the process, and never, ever whack anything with a hammer.

Imho, its a technical job, but not a hard job, and when you do it right you'll feel like you can fix anything.

The tight fit is for 'belts and suspenders' safety. IF the nut stays at the prescribed 100 ft/lbs torque then there is little or no chance of the races turning on the shaft. Many assemblies loose that torque and the races will spin on the shaft reducing both to scrap and possibly seizing the bear or shearing the shaft in short oder. The original '63-'64 assemblies were slip fit, GM modified this to tight fit in late '64 (IIRC) because of field problems.

Drum brake cars will loose the rear wheel just to add insult to injury.

Thanks all. I definately intend to do it right. Something jamming up at times up between the U-Joints and bearings on the passenger side. I removed the passenger side axle yesterday so I can change the U-Joints. Looks like the weekend of 9/10 will be start of the bearing job.

What keeps them from turning on the shaft in the front?

Magic. :D

Why are spun races seen only on the rear?

Have we seen spun races? Normally the races grenade because they fracture due to an overly tight press fit.

I tot I taw a pic just last week of a spun race, wombvette commented on it (?)

When I rebuilt m TA's I had to replace na axle because of a spun bearing

did they spin or did they break up like most do?

The ones I've seen were classic spun races. I take particular interest in this subject as it relates to an area I was responsible for back in the dark ages when I had to work for a living.

Can't say I've seen the same number of fractured races from overly tight fit.

Spun

Hi everyone, we are getting readyto pack and reinstall bearings on the 76 StingRay after a long wait for parts. I believe I have everything I need and understand the process. However, I have a simple (probably dump) clarity question. What exactly does end play mean? Is it the amount of movement in the spindle after everything is reinstalled? If so, is it up/down, side/side or in/out movement that we are talking about? Thanks.

With tapered bearings it results in all the above, but you want to measure and set the in/out.

Do you have a shop manual,information,pics to go by ?

Show us some pictures of your work,we might be able to help point out any/some possible problems you might have.

What measurement are you trying to get on the in/out movement of the
axle ?
Remember the grease will take up some room in the bearings and races,so be very very careful on this measurement

Do you have an dial indicator ?
Do you have a torque wrench ?

Good luck

FWIW I buy a lot of cores. I see a lot of front wheel bearing assemblies with spun races. It's pretty much a 50/50 shot if they are good or not and I have to eat the bad ones. I have much better luck when buying t-arm cores.

Ok thanks, so all of the above possible on the movement. I do have a torque wrench and will be purchasing a dial indicator before I begin the installation. It does not seem like I need the magnetic dial indicator base correct? I do not have a shop manual for this job but I do have one on order. I have all the tools (e.g. installation tool, setup tool, shims, etc) recommended by others from Mid America so I believe I'm good to go. Just trying to make sure I understand what I am looking for in the movement and measurements.

Also, I purchased Timken bearings from Duntov Motors. Any opinion on those? I do need to grease the outer and inner surfaces of the races as well correct? Thanks.

you do not need a mag base if you have a clamp style

Timkin bearings are top shelf

and no you don't grease the outer part of the race just were the rollers/bearings ride

Mark

Hey I just noticed you are in Houston,
Where do you live ?
I have all the measuring tools you might need,being I'm out of work machinist.

If you need a hand give me a shout.
PM me on here

spun races on the front? In the hub? or the spindle.

Will do Mark. Will give it a go tomorrow. If not looking good. I will give you a shout. Send me a private msg with your info. Thanks.

Front hubs. Front spindles usually mic out good unless it's really thrashed.

An old spindle works just as well. Emery the shet out of it so your bearings don't get stuck.

Hi all. I have the passenger side done with bearings in place on the 76. I know the specs call for end play to be in the 0.001 - 0.008 range. I actually have 0 measurable end play after I torqued everything down. Is 0 end play going to cause a problem?

The problem with 0 is that you don't know if that is really a 0 or too tight. Its going to all read 0. It should have the play, if it doesnt, you really should recheck it. What was the reading with the dummy shaft? However. with some of today's seals it is difficult to measure any play after the nut is tightened. The seals pinch and tighten the unit. If it turns freely with no noticeable drag on the bearings, it might be OK.

The play with the dummy shaft in was 0.002. It spins pretty freely now but it's not loose. I'll probably just remove the other side and compare the spin and go from there.

Rebuild Instructions
 

Heh... What's funny is that as I was reading along... I somehow knew that was Gary. When I got to the bottom it was confirmed.

-W

Rear Bearings/U Joints are done. Thanks to everyone that helped. Now to the front, please tell me the front bearings are a "normal" bearing job. Also, I've posted pictures of the car in my photo album for those interested.

So what endplay did you end up with on both spindles ?

Where is this photo album at ??

Try the "My Corvette Photos" link under my avatar picture and let me know if you can see them. We were able to get the driver side to 0.002 or so of end play. We stayed with the 0 endplay on the passenger side. I spoke to a few folks and didnt get any real concerns since I could turn the spindle by hand. We'll see on that.

I've been a machinist for 25 years and there is a rule for bearing installation. If the shaft rotates and the housing remains still, the bearing must press on to the shaft and slip fit in to the housing. If the housing rotates and the shaft remains still the housing must be a press fit and the shaft can be a slip fit ( as on the front wheels of rear wheel drive cars). I believe this is why the rear spindles need to be set up with a jig that will allow you to slip the tapered roller bearings and spacer, on to a shaft, adjust the shim thickness, disassemble and press the assembly on to the spindle. (again because the shaft rotates)
To go a little further, the reason for the press fit on a rotating shaft is that if it is a slip fit the shaft surface and the bearing's inner bore are not revolving at the exact same rate and the clearance between the two is allowing the bearing to roll out the shaft like a rolling pin on pie crust. This is why it needs to pressed on.

On the front wheels the outer race turns.
On the rear the shaft turns.
That is the difference.
Bearing engineering 101.
I know this thread is really old but had to give the reason for the next onlooker.

The thing is, there is a pre load on the bearings with those spacers. They press onto the inner part of the bearing with 100 ft pounds of pressure. It's hard to believe they will turn on the spindle unless they seize up. Putting them in without the spacers is lunacy to me if you have slip fit spindles.

There should not be any pre-loading present on the rear trailing arm bearings. The spec is .001 to .008 loose. (or close to that number) The shim keep the bearings apart and take the crush so to speak. With out the spacers there is no way to control the pre-loading and tightening the nun to 100 pound feet would preload the heck out of the bearings.

What I'm saying is that the spacer holds the inner part of the bearing (maybe preload was the wrong terminology). With the spacer in there really isn't a need to have a press on fit. Slip fit is fine with the spacer in there, the only way they would spin is if the nut backed off or the bearing seized. Those spacers tightened to 100 ft pounds will hold the bearings just fine. Having slip fit bearing and not using the spacers is asking for trouble.

Ok I get your point. And understand what you mean.
However, best engineering practice is to have the slip fit on the non rotating element.
This has been proved over and over in practice and using some really fancy engineering software tools. GM is no dummy and would not add this level of complication to what would be a simple task if it wasn't for the interference shaft fits.
Best guess is under analysis the clamping torque would not suffice or replace the interference fit. The early 1963's had the slip fit and they lost bearings right and left till GM change the shaft diameter. Might work once but the statistical changes of loosing a bearing is higher. Much higher.