Oil leak.. bad pan gasket?
 

I recently had some work done on my vette... a forum member that will remain nameless

He changed the oil pan gasket, and as soon as I got the car back, there's a leak from the back of the pan, under the rear main seal. I don't think the seal was disturbed (it's a 1 piece, 1990 block).

should I just replace the entire gasket, or is there anything else I should check first?

Thats unusual. The gaskets are very flexible. I have used one several times. Are you sure its from the bottom of the motor ?

The motor was only 1 year old.. didnt leak before, but the guy ripped the old gasket when he dropped the pan. He didn't touch the rear main seal, it looks like the oil is dripping out between the oil pan and the gasket, there's some kind of small lip

Its real easy to drop the pan. Just have to take the flywheel dust cover off first. At least on my 87.

I'll guess that he didn't adequately clean the block and use RTV in the corners per the FSM. A leak like you describe is pretty typical when someone does that.

:iagree: RTV is critical...have seen some RTV no-seal cases, none since using permatex 'ultra' grey...MUST allow 24 hours for RTV to fully cure or crankcase pressure may create a flow channel (oil leak)...many shops bow to customer demand with immediate delivery after repair and RTV failure results (hope that wasn't you)

Reclean it, put on a new gasket(my personal preference), and use RTV. Let it cure for 24 hours like mentioned, then it should stop the oil leak. Be sure to clean up any oil that may have dripped onto the pan or other parts of the car. It will burn off but it will stink and smoke a little until it's all gone. I know from personal experience.:D

plan on replacing my oil pan gasket soon. Permatex ultra grey on one side of the blue rubber gasket facing the pan. Felpro kit comes with plastic pins making aligment much easier. I have the 92 lt 1. Other than the inspection plate on trans, what else has to come out to make way for the pan removal ? Starter ? etc thanks jim

so the permatex goes between the pan and the gasket, not the gasket and the block?

On my 95 I had to remove the oil filter, oil filter adapter(gasket), starter, and flexplate cover.

I put some on the block at the four corners, then put the gasket up and applied a little more on top. No leaks. Maybe overkill but it works.

:iagree:

I installed my oil pan gasket dry, and no leaks. :D

bastich :lol:

:iagree:

Use a Fel-Pro gasket and you won't leak from that area for a long, long, long, time.

I'm resealing my oil pan this weekend. (cam install) I went with the $40 FelPro gasket. Will I have any problems installing this thing if my timing cover is already installed? Is it just a matter of putting the front rubber up in the timing cover groove?

Thanks

Did some research on the Fel Pro gaskets since it's been more than five years since I installed mine....

OS34509T: Thin seal
OS34510T: Thick seal

Which type you use is dependent on your oil pan, not the block or timing cover.

Also, one-piece main seal blocks use this one: OS34500R

Here's a picture of the thick seal version (OS34510T) for 2-piece main seal blocks:

http://i102.photobucket.com/albums/m...l-0534510t.jpg

That's the one I used and it seems to work fine on my 94.

You want the timing cover installed before the oil pan, and yes the gasket just fits in the groove. The Felpro gasket is blue and easy to see if it is seated correctly once the oil pan is installed.