396 stroker is more like a time bomb waiting to explode. You'll be happier with a 383 in the long run.

Why? These one liners without substantiation slay me....

I just dont see 13 cubic inches making a profound difference compared to the price of special compression height pistons and block clearancing needed with a 3.875 stroke. I see a 383 being more cost and power effective than a 396. You can make darn near 500whp with a fairly aggressive yet streetable 383, so why go 396 and pay more money for it? why clearance the block for a longer stroke when its not necessary as a 383 will make great power

Absolute nonsense.

I have one and it's built like a frickin' brick sh*thouse.

Go back & look at my thread I posted last month about my 396 build.

I pressume you mean 500 at the tire, correct ? If this is a NA, 23*head motor, and a 383, please list the details of this build.

Hey Mseven.....here ya go.....

:smash:
:crazy:

500whp is doable with medium-heavy solid roller, AFR 210's and 11 to 1 compression or so.
Rev high but still driveable. Possibly a big hydraulic but to stabilize the valvetrain at the rpms required will need a solid roller.

there's a 370 build here that made 475whp with a 230/236 hydraulic cam

My buddys 406 with a mild 242 solid roller and OLD AFR 195's, not eliminators makes the same power as my 383 on a 150 shot. Thats darn near 500whp as my motor made 400whp n/a and i dont think i was getting much more than 100-120 at the wheels with the shot. Granted its a 406 but a 383 with better heads, bigger cam, you can easily reach the 475-500whp mark and still be somewhat streetable.

So many guys in the 400-440whp range n/a with 383s and hydraulic rollers. Nothing super incredible either, basic 195 cc heads and 230-240 degree cams. Peaking at 6000-6400 rpm. Another 50-100 hp is in a bigger solid roller cam motor with larger heads thats for sure, since these motors will go to 6500-7000. Not a great street motor but definately can be streetable enough to enjoy.


Granted this power is generally thru a manual since losses are less. Anything over 450whp thru an auto is pretty nasty.

This car here is a LT1 with 500whp with a solid roller and its a driveable car but its a nasty little motor :) I think this car is a 350-355 or so, not even a 383
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ViB0o...eature=related

here I go what ?

If it was me, and I was on a tight budget, I would do a 383. Cast crank, stock or inexpensive rods, probably hyperutectic pistons, external balance. You can do one of these for dirt cheap. And it will hold up good to 500+flywheel hp. If your budget allowed for a 4340 crank, good stroker rods, forged pistons, ect, why not go for more cubes. It really at that point doesn't cost much more to build a bigger motor. And a low fill on the block will insure clearancing isn't a problem, and make your block stronger. I would even consider going a 4.0" stroke and make a 408.xx or 409. The torque of a 4.0" stroke is huge compared to a 383. And our cars by race car standards are heavy.

i have a full forged 383 for sale. shortblock only if anyone is interested. 1600 miles, 2500 bucks :)

cant go wrong with building a solid bottom end while you can. Forged is nice to do if you plan on pushing any kind of serious rpms and/or power

To follow up with my previous post...

If you want to go a 396, you might as well go with a big block. A 396 stroker is pushing the limits of the 350 block with the extra space needed to fit the bigger crank in. A 383 Stroker will be plenty of power, but to push the limits to a 396 stroker for the marginal gains is not worth the extra expense, hassle, and risk to have a perfectly streetable and raceable 383 stroker.

Where were you last month dude? You knew I needed a 383 shortblock......:(.

You running a forged Eagle crank in it? What pistons? Why you selling?:skep:

I didnt decide to sell this until last week. I was set on reusing this setup but now i'm going all out and getting a stronger block.

see thread
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-p...hortblock.html

My 408 (4" stroke) with AFR215CPs, fairly healthy SR (248/254 @ 0.050", 0.670+), C4SP, and 9.4:1SCR made 480WHP N/A. I was pleased with the results as the motor was built to take big boost and abuse. More compression would have garanteed more power N/A, but not been boost friendly.
Aaron

My next 396 build will involve more careful connecting rod selection. A compact rod really helps the clearancing issues.