Scotch Brite and engine cleaning
 

I used scotch brite pads and wd-40 to clean the deck on my head swap. I've since learned that some people are recommending not to use scotch brite when cleaning engine parts due to the possibility of the small aluminum particals which are embedded in the pad getting into the oil and embedding themselves into the bearing material.

How many of you (and I know there are a few) used scotch brite to clean your motors? Did you have any problems? Any recommendations? Should I get the car back together and sell it before I have major issues or is this all bull crap related to other mechanic myths like "don't mix conventional and synthetic oils"?

Any other thoughts?

I used the green scotch brite pads found in the kitchen section of the grocery store if that makes any difference, which I think it does, it looks like these pads are actually made of nylon fibers and wood particals.

http://www.3m.com/intl/ca/english/ce...questions.html

if you were cleaning by hand with lots of wd it's doubtful you did any damage. if it is indeed nylon you have no worries

I'm not sure what they are made out of. The 3m site says nylon and wood, but I used the green pads...they might be aluminum oxide.

I did use lots of wd40 but I would think that could be worse as it traps all of the material and makes it easier for it to slip past the rings.

Anybody out there use scotch brite without any problems.

This GM bulletin talks about not using surface conditioning discs. I'm hoping that the pads I used don't fall into this category.

http://www.goodwrench.com/_res/pdf/E...Procedures.pdf

yes, using products like the Rol Loc system on a drill with scotch brite is a no-no on aluminum. as is a sharp gasket scraper

The warning I got from my engine builder was using the disc on gasket surfaces as it can wear surfaces unevenly and leave residue inside. If you did it by hand I wouldn't worry too much,I'd use a good filter and drain/change oil and filter shortly after fire up and warm up.You get all kinds of stuff down inside on a swap like that anyhow. So run it ,flush it and you should be good to go. :thumbs: :thumbs: :cheers:

I didn't use disks, just small squares of the green stuff (grocery store variery) with lots of wd40 being quite careful not allow any stuff to get into the motor. The lifter valleys were completely covered and very little (dirty wd40), if any, visibly made it into the cylinders.

Still worried though. Anybody know what the green pads are made out of (found in the supermarket)?

All I can find is that they are made out of "synthetic fiber". You would think that if they were carbide or aluminum oxide you would have to wear eye protection to use. I use these things in my kitchen all the time...I never knew there could be potential issues.

Anybody out there use these things?

Here's all I can find about these pads, these seem to be the same pads I used although I bought mine at walgreens drug store and they cam in a package of 3. It says that they are made of a synthetic fiber. I'm not sure what that means but I also found some more industrial scotch-brite pads/discs on the site that definitly says that they are made of/contain aluminum oxide.

The GM posting warns of using aluminum oxide material. I would hope that if the pads that I bought at a drug store were are eye level of children walking by contained carbide or aluminum oxide these things would aleast come in a sealed package or contained a warning and recommend using eye protection....never knew cleaning my kitchen or motor was so dangerous.

Somebody please step in and tell me what they things are made of so I can get some sleep!!! :(

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/e...er/output_html

Ok, I've read several threads about scotch brite pads and bearing failure. Nobody seems to agree on whether or not it is an issue or not. In addition it seems to only an issue when using metalic type scotch brite discs and a grinder where either the metalic particles from the pad or motor dust enter the unproteced lifter valley.

I've also read about people flushing their motors regardless with some type of solvent before starting the motor after significant work. Can anyone recommend a procedure for doing this?

http://www.goodwrench.com/_res/pdf/E...Procedures.pdf

I found this Goodwrench bulleten on scotchbrite . Chuck.

Scotchbrite is pretty abrasive, that might be the problem, scratching into the aluminum sealing surface. I will tell you that even the softer Scotchbrite will scratch GLASS, so DON"T use it to clean a heavy layer of bugs off your windshield, even with lots of glass cleaner solution. Don't ask. :(

I posted the same one above, but thanks for the info. :) In this pdf they talk about prohibiting the use of surface conditioning disks, which to me imply sloppy mechanic work. I imagine they are referring to the sloppy mechanic practice of using an air tool and an aluminum-oxide/carbide impregenated pad and "sanding" off the gasket material dry without any trouble. I've spoken with a few people, and found many sites that claim to use scotch brite without any issues. I'm not sure what the pads (the 3m site says "synthetic fiber" as opposed to some which are made from aluminum oxide or other types of metal) I used are made of but they were soaked in wd40 and I made sure to minimize any of the fluid that could have seeped into the cylinders..which I promptly cleaned up.

Thanks for the info!

Can anyone recommend a good cylinder/piston cleaning procedure that I can use to elliminate any possibility of leaving some particles behind?

Whoa, c'mon now.
 

Whoa now, would you like to buy a car that was screwed up? Hopefully you'd advertise it honestly.

I've been researching the types of cleaning materials i can use on aluminum mating surfaces, came across your thread here. I've had lots of success on paper and silicone with a plastic razor blade. It's not gonna cut your finger, I mean not unless you really try hard at it (seriously though don't try it, I'm relatively certain any hard substance could lay open fingers or whatnot given the right variables, I've sliced a couple fingers pulling zip ties tight) but it'll scrape down to aluminum without gouging, abrading, or otherwise marring your surface, moisten thoroughly a paper towel or shop towel or your favorite t-shirt-rag or (haven't tried this one -yet-) coffee filter with clean Acetone, WD-40, other penetrants that warn against damage to plastics (nylon, propylene, ethylene etc) will usually soften silicone. Brake cleaner, starting fluids, anything with lots of ether, alcohol, or petroleum distillates should work to soften paper or silicone. (BE CAREFUL TO DO THIS IN WELL VENTILATED AREAS AS YOU WILL KILL BRAIN CELLS IF YOU DON'T, ALSO GLOVES, EYE PROTECTION! DON'T FORGET FACE MASKS IF YOUR NEIGHBOR IS OVER DRINKING AT A MINIMUM OF 6 FEET AWAY FROM YOU 😁)
I still wouldn't mind some actual manufacturer testing and advice on scotch brite for regular kitchen cleaning, as OP states, on aluminum gasket surfaces and silicone mating aluminum to aluminum applications.

All that said, apologies if implications were made, just my 2 scents. I have read the other advices here, -maybe- it's like licks to the center of a tootsie pop...?