Hey NICE!!!!! I was going to do this the next time I had a Radio to do! You beat me to it... :thumbs:

The Radios I've done haven't had the board you had to remove to access the Red and White Faceplate Connectors, with the antenna connection on it? I wonder how many variants there are?

The eight small screws holding the Display board down are 1/8", I bought a nice kit at Lowes with quick change long reach nut drivers that range from 5/64" to 1/4"...

PMing ya on some ideas...

Tim

Stock Radio LED Conversion-Part Deaux
 

Replacing your stock radio bulbs with LED's has been covered earlier in the main thread (thanks to Tim Tstar and others), so I won't rehash any of that, but I did come up with something that might help to disperse the light once you've got them installed.

Here's a shot of my radio board with LED's installed. You may notice on the left side by the volume knob, I put two LED's where there had only been one stock bulb. Makes a world of difference.

Attachment 48178777

The bulbs sit in the holes you see in this white plastic piece that's attached to the backside of the faceplate. It snaps in place with one tab on each side. The blue plastic piece is the wave guide for the cd slot (it re-directs some of the light up to that area). DON'T FORGET TO REPLACE THAT PIECE WHEN YOU PUT THINGS BACK TOGETHER! Yeah, I forgot. :ack: :rofl:

Attachment 48178778

One thing you can do to maximize your LED's light is to find some shiny foil and line the white plastic piece. I set it on top of the circuit board to show how it is when the radio is put back together. The three LED's on the bottom right sit inside a wave guide, so I didn't line that area.

Attachment 48178779

This is the wave guide for those other light positions. Normally, it's clear, but I wrapped it with reflective foil.

Attachment 48178780

Here's a pic of the blue film piece that sits directly behind all of your radio buttons. There's this big main piece and a small piece. Notice that between the blue windows, there's a round black area. These are DIRECTLY in front of the bulbs. Not good for LED's.

Attachment 48178781
Attachment 48178782

I decided to get rid of that blue film (even though I used blue LED's) so I'd get good even lighting. I found an old file folder with a clear plastic cover, traced the blue film piece on it, then carefully cut it out and fitted it.

Attachment 48178783
Attachment 48178784

Between foil-lining the white plastic piece, foil-wrapping the wave guide, and replacing the blue film with clear, I've managed to get a pretty even distribution of light. :cool:

They don't do it justice, but here are some finished pics...

Attachment 48178785
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_2001.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_2002.jpg
http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n...s/IMG_2004.jpg

Hope this is helpful to someone! :cheers:

Check your PM's.
Rick

Hey, you showed how to do the hard one!!!!!! So yeah it's VERY helpful!! I wouldn't have shown one without that other board and people would be saying WTF or whatever it is they say... :cheers:

Yeah I used a small crescent wrench on em also till I got that kit. What a PITA! The kit is made by Kobalt and has a nice carrying case with it, it was on an end cap... :thumbs:

Your Radio and HVAC look excellent!

Tim

Nice work :thumbs: :cheers:

Install using White LED's
 

Tim (tstar) has requested photos of my install using white LED's.

Attachment 48178786
Attachment 48178787
Attachment 48178788
Attachment 48178789
Attachment 48178790
Attachment 48178791
Attachment 48178792

All of the dash and door control LED's were custom made. When I did most of this work the Type 74 LED lapms were not available.

Attachment 48178793


These are closeup shots of the lights installed in the footwells and trunk.
These are 1W LED modules.

Drivers footwell.
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b8...s/P3180318.jpg

Turnk
Attachment 48178794

If you have any questions don't hesitate to contact me.

Gary

Very nice!!!!!!! Crisp, clean and matches the IPC!!!! :cheers:

Tim

along with a few other members recently I decided to add some puddle lights to the bottom of my doors. I went with cool white water proof flexible LED strips from Oznium. Its the waterproof version of what I used for my floor lights featured earlier. unlike the autozone solutions I got almost 2 feet of LEDs under each door. I think it turned out great! except for taking some pictures in my garage after install I've hardly seen them so far, haven't driven at night yet!
with the LED's hidden in between the two weather strips they are protected from damage and exessive water. the rubber gaskets also seal the light in completely when ever the doors are closed. living in VA you always have to be careful about things like that. if I Were to turn the dimmer up all the way to turn on the interior lights and floor lights while driving no need to worry about the light being visible from the outside. becaues it would probably result in a ticket...whether its legal or not.

here are some pics, looks awesome!

here is where the wires go inside. I used 18awg speaker wire because it was convenient to have the two conductors attached. I would have used smaller wire if I had it, 22awg would be plenty.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tyLights17.jpg

a close up of the light strips before being hooked up. they aren't very pretty to look at while off, so I only use this style in hidden locations.
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tyLights20.jpg

the strip illuminated
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tyLights23.jpg

and a few pictures of the final product
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tyLights24.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tyLights29.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tyLights31.jpg
http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z...tyLights38.jpg

Looks good!

:iagree: It looks DAMN good!!!!!!! I'm going to have to do this now! Hey if you tied em into your footwell light then they shouldn't be on when you're driving... Well, with the door closed anyway.:D

BTW Now you need a set of medal pedals! All that light is just making that plastic gas pedal jump ouy at ya! :rofl:

Tim

Ok, can someone help me out here, i'm trying to do everything in red, aside from the hood. I've narrowed down which my car will be using above and edited. Can someone tell me the exaxt number of which led's I need?

Are these what i'll be needing if I wanted to get everything from Autoillumination?
14 - 5mm LEDs with XXX* Ohm resistors for HVAC
12 - 5mm LEDs for mirror
13 - NEO WEDGE Type B bulbs, 10mm (3/8”) diameter $2.99 ea. for doors, fog, trunk, dic, etc.
4 - NEO WEDGE Type A, 8mm (5/16") diameter $2.99 ea. for Dimmer/HUD
1 – Super Star Festoon Dome Bulb: White. 10mm wide x 44mm overall $9.99 ea.

Now, from what i'm gathering, am I correct in assuming that the Autoilluminaton bulbs are NOT sanded and do not have the plastic base? And, that I should probably use the ones from Oznium? The areas that could use the sanded Oznium ones are doors, dic, fog, trunk, dimmer, hud? Oznium also does not differentiate between 8mm or 10mm.


I'm confused on what the macmaster covers in red are for. What blue bulbs will I have that need these?



The hvac and map lights are my big concern. I don't think I want to attempt this. My hvac display is out as well as some other areas. I didn't see anything on replacing the display led.

I know of a repair service on the auction site that will repair the hvac for $100 w/100 deposit once my core is returned and i'm thinking of going that route first if the display area is unreplaceable.

I just ordered 40 of the Oznium LEDs. That should be a good start for me. They are ready to go, plug and play, and you don't have to worry about anything except putting them in the right way.

Ok, can someone help me out here, i'm trying to do everything in red, aside from the hood. I've narrowed down which my car will be using above and edited. Can someone tell me the exaxt number of which led's I need?

Are these what i'll be needing if I wanted to get everything from Autoillumination?
14 - 5mm LEDs with XXX* Ohm resistors for HVAC
12 - 5mm LEDs for mirror
13 - NEO WEDGE Type B bulbs, 10mm (3/8”) diameter $2.99 ea. for doors, fog, trunk, dic, etc.
4 - NEO WEDGE Type A, 8mm (5/16") diameter $2.99 ea. for Dimmer/HUD
1 – Super Star Festoon Dome Bulb: White. 10mm wide x 44mm overall $9.99 ea.
I'd suggest buying a few extra of the bare LED's and the NEO WEDGES.


Now, from what i'm gathering, am I correct in assuming that the Autoilluminaton bulbs are NOT sanded and do not have the plastic base? Autolumination NEO WEDGE bulbs have the plastic bases. I only needed one "type A" 8mm and that's all I ordered from them, but I believe it was a round-top, not flat-top. Don't know if the 10mm ones are round or flat, but the pic on their website shows flat.And, that I should probably use the ones from Oznium? That's up to you. I ordered my NEO WEDGES from Oznium because they were cheaper. The areas that could use the sanded Oznium ones are doors, dic, fog, trunk, dimmer, hud? Yes.Oznium also does not differentiate between 8mm or 10mm. They don't sell the 8mm ones (that I've found).

The hvac and map lights are my big concern. I don't think I want to attempt this. My hvac display is out as well as some other areas. I didn't see anything on replacing the display led. [QUOTE] Neither have I. Only a fix for a dim display.

Tstar can correct me if I'm wrong. He also does HVAC/Radio LED conversions and may be able to help you out. I'm sure he'll reply to this soon...he's on here ALL the time. :rofl: :cheers:

My HUD/Dimmer switch pack used 4 of the smaller Type A NEOs, some other owners said that they had a mix of type A and B, so to be safe as RJ said, get some extras... You would really be upset after tearing apart your IPC to discover you're short a few NEOs!

The problem areas are pretty well covered in the first pages.... :thumbs:

The rest looks good to me!

PM me about your HVAC and Maplight PCBs...

And RJ is the one who is on here ALL the time.... not me!!!!! Who answered first? :rofl: :rofl:

Tim

Touche'! :rofl:

Does anyone have some more info on how to swaps LEDs in the electro rearview mirror? Do we need to solder new LEDs to the circuit board?

Yep, sure do. Here are some great instructions from Carlton;

http://www.spdkilz.com/techtipledrearviewmirror.html

If you're doing Red, they will all light up fine. Blue and White, you'll have to isolate one of the outer LEDs (the forst one would be easiest) and tie into the Hot wire with a resistor, then run a jumper to the next LED in line from the hot lead as well... That should get em all lit up.

Tim

new hatch lights
 

I had an idea and brought out the soldering iron. I decided to make some use of a few extra LED strips I had laying around from my floor lights mod.

I already added extra light to my hatch by retrofitting the stock lights to accommodate festoon bulbs, and installing blue festoon LEDs with 2 superflux LEDs each. I bought a set of extra lenses and then added 2 more housings modified the same way right above the rear wheel humps.

recently I've decided that even though blue LEDs look so good, they are best left for things like the window controls. I decided I wanted all my interior illumination lights to be white. they kind of look bluish anyway, and make more light and a nicer light than the blue. so I took 2 strips of extra Oznium LEDs and wired them into the housings. instead of 2 superflux LEDs I ended up with 12 LEDs in each housing. I know they produce a bright even pattern light, because these are the same ones I used on my floor lights and puddle lights.

check it out!


I soldered the leads right onto the orignal bulb contacts, this way I can use the factory plug which makes it convenient to remove & replace

this shows a comparison of the two. and I thought the blue superflux festoon mod made it bright!

here's the final product mounted

unfortunately I only had enough LEDs to do 3 of them, so I did my original 2 housings and left the 2 I added for later. I guess I'll have to make another order from oznium!

what do you think?

These all look GREAT!

I'm going to start calling you McGuiver instead of Mcgilles!!!!! :lol:

I think it looks fatastic!!! AND all from left overs too! Gotta love that! :thumbs:

Tim

these particular LEDs from Oznium are so awesome, there is so much potential! I wish I could have gotten all 4 housings retrofitted, I was actually just one strip short of being able to do all 4 of them. I decided to hold off until I buy some more LEDs. but these things are so bright, the light is even, it doesn't have that dot pattern effect that alot of LEDs have, and they're extremely compact, you can fit them almost anywhere. they come in a standard version and a waterproof version so you can use them inside and out. the one and only downside I can see to them is that they aren't very pretty, I think I would only use them in places where the LED strip itself is hidden, and all you can see is the light. only indirect lighting...

sahweet!!
 

:cool: :cool:

That looks amazing! :thumbs: I've installed blue LEDs in my stock housings and decided I needed a more uniform and brighter pattern. WAS considering another set of stock housings installed in the area of the hatch hinges.
NOW, I have a few questions about the details of YOUR LED strip mod. :flag:
*What is the part number of the LED strips?
<colors available, length, $$$...>
*How were you tying into power for your forward/wheel hump set?
<stock lights have the plastic clip/housing connector...>

Nice work!
Plagerism is the sincerest form of flattery...
...I'm all over this one! :cheers:

Aloha
Michael

BTW, this has become one of the best lighting reference threads ever!!!

one down...
 

OK, I found the surface mount strips at Oznium. (SMD Light Bars) I'm gonna give blue a try in your <mcgilles> stock housing configuration. I like that look. Just looks clean to me. :thumbs:
The hard part is waiting for the order to arrive... :willy:
Thanks Again,
Michael

Thanks!

They are the ribbon LED strips from Oznium: http://www.oznium.com/led-ribbon
available in blue, green, red, warm white, neutral white, cool white, yellow, and RGB. I used the Neutral white ones on my interior lights and cool white on the exterior white. they are sold by the foot, you have to solder your own leads on them. they are sold by the foot for $12.49/ft. RGB is a little more expensive. the strips have indicators on it where you can cut it so you can make it the right length, 2 segments (6 LEDs) fits perfectly across the lens, so I used 2 rows of that.

for the connection to the 2 new housings I added I didn't use the stock connector at all. with adding the new LED lights to the housing you have wires coming out, just run them strait to the two existing housings and splice them in.

See my thread for interior LED replacement bulbs: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=2127665

Jhonathan

http://www.jwmotoring.com

Oh, Damn...
 

Copy That!! :thumbs: Thanks :cheers:
I picked up an extra rear wiring harness from the big auction I thought might come in handy for things like this. I might still see what I can do with it... :D

Big oops; I ordered the less/non-flexible strips. :o :willy:
I'll give those a look, they could work the same for this purpose. I'll know in 2-3 days :thumbs:
They look similar enough, if not I'll figure out somewhere else, I'm sure.
Certainly enough ideas floating around this thread! :lol:

Thanks for the link and the great write up/pics!!

Aloha
Michael

Does anyone know about the little light on the bottom of the review mirror that is normally on during driving that shines down on the shifter area? It looks really yellow and is on the bottom passenger side of the mirror. I'd like to replace this light to be more white/blue but not sure of what type bulb.

thanks. :cheers:

The Orange helper LED is 5mm I believe, you have to take apart the mirror to get at it. I attempted it once and pretty much cosmetically ruined my mirror! :willy:

FYI Orange is the weakest LED in terms of light output (mcd rating), Blue and White are two of the strongest. IMO replacing the stock one with White or Blue might be an anoyance when driving, kinda like having a dome light on.

My current mirror, an Electrochromatic, customized by my friend Larry has a Red LED for the helper light and it's substantially brighter then the stocker. Being Red it isn't glaring so not a problem driving at night with it...

Tim

Brudda Tim,
Would you or friend Larry know if there's room to put a resistor in the circuit to lower the voltage/brightness? enquiring minds...

I would think so, I never got my standard mirror apart to find out I only tore up the outer case around the seam, a heat gun and a spare mirror to experiment on would be nice! Hopefully Larry will chime in here, like an idiot I forgot his Screen name, Larrythe2nd or something...

Tim

As Tim has stated it is a 5mm Amber LED, and yes if you changed to a different color LED you could put a resistor in line with it, It's actually soldered to a wire and not to a circuit board so it would be very easy to cut one of the leads and solder a resistor or even a small variable resistor in line. You would want to test it before you installed it with a 12v source because removing and installing the mirror is a bit of a pain.

There you are!!!!! :lol: Thanx for chiming in, you're the mirror expert! :thumbs:

Have you succsefully taken apart the standard mirror?

Tim

No, I've never tried, I've never had one to mess with.

electrochromatic mirror
 

I've swapped leds in several of the newer mirrors but never had to tear one apart to do the helper led. Does the case seperate easily or no?In your opinion, is it worth changing the helper led?I've never done one.

I have one of Larry's modded Electrochromatic mirrors with the Red Helper light and also a Red power on indicator as well as the maplights of course. The Red helper is brighter then the Orange but is not distracting while driving at night, I like it alot. The power on indicator is a little too bright, for me anyway someday I'll tone it down...

Larry obviously got the Auto Dim mirror apart without marking up the case at all. When I attempted taking a base mirror (NON Auto Dimming) apart I screwed the case up pretty badly. It was out of a Blazer and I had got it for the lenses so no biggy. It wasn't glued but I couldn't get the clips to release without applying destructive force!!!! :lol: So unless there's a secret trick or tool it isn't worth it IMO

By the way. have you tried my trick for using Blue or White LEDs in the LED Arrays?

Tim
PS When are you hooking up with Michael?

No I haven't, remind me what we talked about, (you know CRS disease) I remember talking to you about it but I forget the solution we talked about. (I think I have an extra mirror laying around somewhere that I could play with)

PMing...

are these led's polarized in any way? I tried to put one in and I think i hurt something because now it is dim and my stock light will no longer work :(

T_Vert, the only think I can think of is maybe you somehow damaged the switch that is in the round brass part inside the light bulb housing. Single LED's have a positive and a negative (and will not work if wired up backwards) but these arrays like the LED 561 replacement do not, it does not matter what way you put them in. You can test the 561 LED replacement that you have soldered in by getting a 12v source (you can just run long wires from the battery if you have to) and connect the positive to one side of the 561 LED replacement that you soldered into the light bulb housing, and connect the negative to the other, if it lights bright it is OK if not its bad.

The light lights dimly and i now only have 11.8Vdc to the switch instead of the 12.8V the rest of the car has..

Where did you measure the voltage? What is the voltage where the underhood light harness connects at the bottom of the hood?

the voltage is the same at the harness. I checked voltage at the two wires at the plug on the frame and also the two terminals where the light bulb attaches.

Did you try to see if the LED lights ok with a 12v source? Did you try the bulb with a 12v source?

LED and old light function fine w/ 12VDC from another source.

Use some jumper wires and go from the connector at the bottom of the hood where harness plugs in and see what happens when you go to the LED, then see what happens when you connect the bulb
(this is eliminating the switch in the light housing)?

I could certainly try this but, being as both the bulb socked and harness plug at the frame show the same voltage, I'd be surprised if there was any change.

I'm asking you to try the LED and the bulb with the voltage and current supplied at the connection near the bottom of the hood because since the beginning I suspected the switch in the underhood light housing. If you try this and it lights ok you will have proved that the switch is bad. If it still doesn't light properly this will mean you have a problem between the battery and this connection. If you don't want to try this, you're on your own because I'm out of idea's. good luck

Note on HVAC bulb swap
 

If you use pure (aka "cool white") LEDs for the HVAC controls, the blue tint in the buttons will give it an "aqua" color. (I call it a fruity blue) I'm working on a solution involving using "warm white" LEDs. the output from them is closer to a regular bulb and it should come out a pure white through the buttons.

You're going to color you NEOs with a yellow highlighter aren't ya??????? :D

Tim

nah....i found a place that sells 5mm white LEDs. But this isn't very high on the priority list.

I would imagine not, hey congrats on your sequential tail lights, they look amazing!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumbs: :thumbs:

Tim

Well while reading the last 8 pages it has become apparent that I am the Forrest Gump of the Corvette Forum. :lol::lol:

If I ever attempted this, my Zo6 would end up as a pile of parts on the garage floor. You guys are good and my hats off to you:yesnod: Very cool Mod:thumbs::cheers:

Forrest.......aka Gonzo

I havent tried the led trick with getting all 6 leds to light up in the mirror.I dont want to experiement with other peoples mirrors.Would do my own but it is red and as you know red is not a problem. Did my brothers in blue and 5 is plenty bright!
Michael will be here tonight so I'm looking forward to talking leds!!Got 2 more orders from jw today too!

:lol: If you want it done, we'll make sure it happens! PM me if you'd like.

Tim

I swapped my rear hatch, glove box, foot wells, and rear view all over to LED's today. The little orange helper LED was very easy to swap. I used a 5/32nds screw driver in the little slot of the holder button to turn the holder while using a little cheapy straight edged driver commonly used for advertising with the magnet on one end to pry up on the edges and it popped right out. Just pay attention to the way it was before you pull it out. The hole is D shaped and it took a bit to figure out how to pop it back in. The LED is crimped to a blue and a red wire. A simple snip and solder with some heat shrink and I now have a white LED shining down. It isn't annoying in the least. In fact it highlights the beer in the cup holder nicely. Not alot of the light comes out of the slot so it really is cool.

Hmmm I tried that and broke that slotted cover! :lol: Glad it worked out, good info for everyone else. I'd like to see a pic of your setup!!!!!

Tim

Thanks Tom!!
 

New underhood LED spotlights!! WOO HOO!!!!!!! Can't wait to get home and install them.
Thanks for taking the time from your day/eve Tom!

VERY sahweet '01, Brother!!

Michael

doesn't sound bad at all. did you use a 3 or 5mm LED? what mcd? I think I would like white better than orange, but I certainly don't want it to be overpowering. can you adjust the aim of the LED with that slot? mine shines too far back, you an see the shifter fine if its in 2, 4, or 6, but 1, 3, 5, or R are still in the dark.

forum friends
 

No problem Michael,Had a great time meeting you and talking leds and vettes! I'll be waiting to see how the spots turn out! :cheers:

Great to see you guys hooked up and hit off!!!!! :cheers:

Tim

tough not to like a guy who's office looks a LOT like mine! (not to mention the other common interests!!) :thumbs:

never know when my job will bring me farther east Tim, when it does I'll be a callin'.....

:flag:

M

**EDIT** Tom, I almost forgot; I have the ringtone from "Dr No" on my cell. (Hugo Montenegro at his best!!!!) it would go good with your Profile Bio!!!! :D

I can promise you a mean Luau, minus the Emu though! LOL

You and your wife are welcome anytime! :thumbs:

Tim

Mahalo Brother
 

Whaaaa, no emu?!? :cry
I'll bet no poi, either?? :lol: :lol: (j/k...) :leaving:

Have you ever tried venison in an emu??
I'm thinking pineapple/mango/mac-nut sauce would be GOOD! :thumbs:

...or a venison burger with a pineapple slice and teriyaki (sp) sauce, cold beer and good company, will definately work!!


Well maybe; uh, next fall we can emu an Elk??

Aloha

EDIT Sorry off thread topic. Gonna get myself in hot water again.

I kinda got to like Poi... :yesnod:

It's my Thread and I brought it up, so no hot water here! :lol:

Tim

that's right...
 

...that dawned on me a few minutes ago. :thumbs:

:lol:

great write up

Sorry about being slow responding. Yes the white is cool. No regrets after several days. Absolutely no distraction except for me admiring my handy work.

You really can't aim the light much because the holder/slot is angle cut and goes in the mirror one way. It has some play though. You can adjust it more by moving the mirror. Since the arm moves up and down and side to side there are several positions that you can still see out of and move the light around some. Mine hits mostly just behind the shifter by the active handling switch but gives good light in the whole area about 8 inches in diameter. I don't know the size of the LED. It's a normal full size LED like the orange one and it came out of a 50 cent key chain cheapy light from Walgreens.

Anyway it will provide enough light to see your shifter and not so much it's a distraction.

It takes a 5mm LED.

Where does it stop! HAHAHAHAHA!

Not until every concievable light has been swapped... whether it looks good or not!!!!! :rofl:

Where have you been hiding anyway my friend!!!! Good to see ya agian... :cheers:

Tim

Been a busy working fool lately. Not much fun time. And the poor Corvettes are being neglected too!

Hey Tim, how sure are you of the polarities of your radio PCB diagram? I'm working on putting LED's in a Radio for a friend and since I have an aftermarket stereo in mine I have no way of hooking it to the car and checking it. I've got all the LED's soldered in the way your diagram shows (triple checked them and the board before a I started soldering) and when I hook up a 9-volt to one of the bulbs only a few light up. If I go to another bulb and power it up a few other ones light up. Are they all supposed to light up at once, or does that sound normal to you?

Bruce

Gotta be Sunday - Bruce, ya got too much time on your hands!!
HAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!

Just kiddin,
Rain

Bruce,

The diagram's dead on... There are multiple seperate light circuits on the Display board. I'm not sure if they are isolated via the ground or power runs. But if you hook up the RED harness to the Radio, they'll all light up for you while testing. I suppose I should Ohm the harness to find a way to jumper it and get all the lights lit without having to hook up to the Radio...

Tim

Rain, stop rachet jawing and send me your stuff!

:lol:

Tim

Thanks for the great thread, I'm so doing this when I get my vette :thumbs:

:cheers:

Tim

Thanks Tim, that's what I was hoping you would say. I couldn't tell from the pics so thought you might have been able to just use a 9-volt battery to get them all on at once, and if that was the case I knew I screwed something up. :crazy: So not going to panic yet until I can get a C5 with a stock stereo over here so can hook it up and test the lights out. :cheers:

How long are you going to be up? I can figure out the harness and get some jumpers figured out for you so you can fire up hte whole face in maybe 30 minutes...

Tim

I'll be up another hour or so, just got back from weekly trip to Wally world and need to unwind a bit. Really don't want you to go to any trouble on my account though.

It's no trouble, I have one tore apart right now in the basement and have been meaning to do it anyway... Go unwind and we'll see how long it takes, it it's too long it'll be waiting for you in the AM. :thumbs:

Tim

Thanks...greatly appreciated.

Ok Got it, uploading pics now... There's really only two circuits, it's just running crazy on the board.

Tim

:cool::thumbs:

On the Red harness... We'll call the Blue wire #1, here's the two jumpers.

1 - 3 = Hot
2 - 5 = Ground

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...g/DSC02118.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...g/DSC02117.jpg

And it works too! :lol:

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/DSC02124.jpg

Tim

Thanks Tim...looks good...will give it a try it in the morning...calling it a night. Much appreciated.

Ok, finally got back to it a little while ago and those pin outs worked great! :thumbs: Thanks again Tim. :cheers: Was relieved to know I did have them in the right sequence. :lol:

Was a bit dim at first, but once I pulled the blue plastic sheet out made a big difference. Does seem to have a few hot spots but not sure what I can do to get rid of those. Just need to put it back together now.

Attachment 48178795

Attachment 48178796

Attachment 48178797

Attachment 48178798

Don't put it together yet!!!! PMing ya....

Ok here's what the foam layer looks like with the chrome tape on it.
Attachment 48178799

Now the before & after shots, looks like it evened it up a bit.

Before
Attachment 48178800
After
Attachment 48178801

The "eject" button looks a lot better.

ok good!

One thing I just thought of...I imagine it will be quite a bit brighter when it's hooked back up to the actual 12-volt power in the the car. Have you noticed any huge differences in the ones you've done? Might make those hot spots a lot more noticeable, or bring out some others? :crazy:

Not really, they look the same with a 9 volt battery or the car's voltage...

Tim

Good to hear...once again thanks for all the help. :thumbs: Going to go put it back together.

Anytime Bruce... take care.

Tim

All things Superflux!
 

My original interior LED lights started giving my problems recently with various bulbs burning out...causing others to quickly follow as the voltage per bulb changed. I ordered a pack of 20 superflux LEDs from ebay and couldn't be more pleased with the results.

Cargo lights using painted OEM lenses drilled for LEDs:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c2...argolights.jpg

Footwell lights using painted 1/8" plexiglass.
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c2...6/CIMG2192.jpg

Mounted:
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c2...6/CIMG2195.jpg

Output shots:

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c2...6/CIMG1011.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c2...CIMG1013-1.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c2...6/CIMG1014.jpg

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c2...6/CIMG1016.jpg


The good news: I have light where i need it.
The bad news: I can now see my dirty carpet :(


Price list:
LEDs: $14 (pack of 20pcs)
Plexiglass FREE!!! (leftover from previous project)

Tech notes:
Each light uses (4) Superflux 5-chip LEDs. The draw is 100mA and 3.1v which means in series no resistor is needed. (12.3v total voltage drop)

Each LED produces 35,000MCD at 140 degree viewing angle. This converts to:

roughly 578 lumens per housing.
45.98 candle power per housing.

At a total of 2312 lm, My interior lights in OEM locations now produce roughly the same output as a 135w incandescent light bulb (2350 lm).

Very nice work!!!!! As always! :thumbs:

Tim

Hey RF nice work for sure!I was looking at the connectors you used. I have something very simular from autolumination but they dont have the center yellow wire as your does. Where did you get those and what purpose does the center wire serve?Power for another circuit?:flag:

The members of this forum are AMAZING at coming with the most cool mods for their vette. Extra cool project for the winter.:cheers:

I got them from a 36LED array from autolumination.com about 6 months ago. The array crapped out so i cut off the 194 wiring harness and used it with my new ones. Their new models don't have the yellow wire either. strange....

I also wish they would quit changing the colors of the wires on the connectors! I keep having to change my instructions.NOt too many scources for these as far as I know.