What weight oil for a GM 350 HO crate?
There have been lots of threads about oil (dino vs. synthetic, high zinc vs. low zinc, etc.), but I didn't notice any experience or opinions for GM Performance crate engines, specifically for the 350/330 HO.
I have less than 12K miles on my 350 HO. I live in Minnesota, so high temps >90 are not a big concern. My temp guage rarely goes above 200 degrees. Heat is not a problem. I don't have catalytic converters (no emissions testing in MN), so zinc fowling up the cats is not an issue. I don't drive my '80 real hard, but I do like to leave my mark on an isolated strip of straight road near our house and I occasionally like the sound of full length headers, true dual pipes, and high flow mufflers at 3000-4000 rpm. So, what oil do you recommend? I have been using Mobil 10w30 or 10w40 because I thought it offered the best lubrication. I use Rotella in our mint-condition 60K-mile '93 Turbo Cummins Dodge pickup (2 gallons per oil change!) but I never thought about using it in my 350 HO. I'm open to suggestions. What do you recommend? :bigears BTW, I only use WIX filters. |
Rotella ok...as long as you are feeding it zinc for the flat tappet bump stick...(cam)..not sure about % zinc in the Mobil though....you might check their ZDDP additive package..
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It's pretty hard to go wrong with 10W-30. Being sensitive to the zinc/phosphorous issue, I use this CH/SI oil in my 1967.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...y97/CTCoil.jpg |
Originally Posted by rihwoods
(Post 1563444141)
Rotella ok...as long as you are feeding it zinc for the flat tappet bump stick...(cam)..not sure about % zinc in the Mobil though....you might check their ZDDP additive package..
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Originally Posted by MN80Vette
(Post 1563443841)
There have been lots of threads about oil (dino vs. synthetic, high zinc vs. low zinc, etc.), but I didn't notice any experience or opinions for GM Performance crate engines, specifically for the 350/330 HO.
I have less than 12K miles on my 350 HO. I live in Minnesota, so high temps >90 are not a big concern. My temp guage rarely goes above 200 degrees. Heat is not a problem. I don't have catalytic converters (no emissions testing in MN), so zinc fowling up the cats is not an issue. I don't drive my '80 real hard, but I do like to leave my mark on an isolated strip of straight road near our house and I occasionally like the sound of full length headers, true dual pipes, and high flow mufflers at 3000-4000 rpm. So, what oil do you recommend? I have been using Mobil 10w30 or 10w40 because I thought it offered the best lubrication. I use Rotella in our mint-condition 60K-mile '93 Turbo Cummins Dodge pickup (2 gallons per oil change!) but I never thought about using it in my 350 HO. I'm open to suggestions. What do you recommend? :bigears BTW, I only use WIX filters. |
I have a 350HO in one of my cars with only about 500 miles on it. It has 10W30 oil in it with GM EOS added. GM took the EOS off the market for awhile but has released a reformulated version now...supposedly with less ZDDP in it than before.
The manager at my local Chevy dealer said EOS is nothing more than GM's version of STP, but I don't know if that's accurate. Either way, STP does have ZDDP in it. The STP red bottle has more ZDDP than the blue bottle, but either should be sufficient of you can't find Shell Rotella or an equivalent. |
Does that motor have a flat tappet cam in it? If so I use VR1 valvoleen.
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i use 10w-40 standard valvoline in my 383 (10 yrs now) my 350 in the camaro and in the 327 in the vette.
i have heard that the heavy(thick) racing oils wont circulate as fast on start ups etc.. giving time for cylinder scratching etc.. unless your running it in the 1/4 mile alot i would use a good 10w-30 for breakin and winters up north and 10w-40 in the summer. jmho |
At your point- Royal Purple 10w40. I've got an pretty extensive oil test PDF if you want it. send your e-mail. C.
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Originally Posted by mpett1
(Post 1563447399)
Does that motor have a flat tappet cam in it? If so I use VR1 valvoleen.
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Originally Posted by RunningMan373
(Post 1563456030)
At your point- Royal Purple 10w40. I've got an pretty extensive oil test PDF if you want it. send your e-mail. C.
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Originally Posted by RunningMan373
(Post 1563456030)
At your point- Royal Purple 10w40. I've got an pretty extensive oil test PDF if you want it. send your e-mail. C.
Thanks |
The only sensible response is to use a good quality synthetic oil...especially in Minnesota. Temp changes will "age" regular oil pretty quickly [oxidation]. Synthetics last longer and keep their viscosity better over time. If your engine has leak 'problems', they could be worse if you go to synthetic; if your engine is sealed well, there should be no problem.
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Originally Posted by 7T1vette
(Post 1563466256)
The only sensible response is to use a good quality synthetic oil...especially in Minnesota. Temp changes will "age" regular oil pretty quickly [oxidation]. Synthetics last longer and keep their viscosity better over time. If your engine has leak 'problems', they could be worse if you go to synthetic; if your engine is sealed well, there should be no problem.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf It looks like I can have Mobil 1 and ZDDP if I just switch to a different Mobil 1 oil. :thumbs: |
Mobil 1
I have a ZZ3 in my Nomad and use 10W30 Mobil 1. When I switched I saw a very slight increase in gas milage and no consumption between oil changes. The motor only has about 12K miles on it so I change the oil by time not milage. There may be better choises out there but I don't think you can go wrong with the Mobil 1.
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Changing synthetics by "time" is fine, if you don't mind the expense...but it kind of defeats the purpose of the synthetic oil. It doesn't oxidize like organic oil, so changing it based on time is really unnecssary. Even if you choose that approach, synthetic is still the best choice.
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