C3 ( 1980) frame for a C2 Body?
 

Does anyone have a blueprint for putting a C2 on a an 1980 frame?

There are a number of smallish changes relating to bumper and body mounts - and a huge change in the rear suspension. 1980 was the first year of the aluminum "bat wing" differential and mount.

There's a site that's been posted here many times detailing the C2/C3 frame changes. A search should turn it up quickly.

http://www.71corvette.com/frames.html

I believe this is the one the Bat is referring to...

http://www.71corvette.com/frames.html

Amazing, when you think about it, that the C2 and C3 can have so much in common under the skin.

:cheers:

Thank you for the responses. I probably should have given a little more detail. Several years ago I bought a 65 with a 67 one piece nose ( maybe ecklers) no head light buckets. It has flares, good for bigger tires. A whale tail and it had new paint. I also bought a burnt 80 auto with a beautiful frame. since the 80 is said to be a better handling unit I thought I would take a fresh 961 block 396 I have that is built and put them together with a doug nash 5 speed I have and make a fun car. I don't care if I have to cut the whole rear frame of the 80. And I should be able to sell the nice 65 frame to pay for a bit of the project. My thoughts at the moment anyway.

Have you looked at what Vette Brakes has for suspension kits? You might be able to improve the handling of your C2 substantially without having to swap the frame. The front control arms for Vettes are the same from 63-82 and IRS has been around since 63 so there isn't a big advantage to swapping the frame.

:cheers:

Rick B.

As part of reducing the weight of the later C3 models, the thickness of the frame was reduced from .110 inches to .090inches in 1980, so the rails themselves are thinner.

The biggest plus of most C3 chassis over the typical C2 is the rear kick-up gussets added during the '68 run. Geometry wise, replacing the C2 rear camber strut bracket with at least a C3 piece (if not VB&P's cool bracket) would reduce (you don't want to eliminate it except for drag racing) the excessive camber gain inherent in C2's. Any other improvements you might make to one are pretty much applicable to the other.

Also, the '80-'82 Dana 44 batwing diff isn't quite as strong as the earlier 10-bolt, which can be an issue with high perf engines. Good news is that the latter can be fitted with a little adapting work. Bad news is that 12-bolt IRS diffs evidently don't fit the batwing, should you ever want to go that route.

edit - The C3/D44 batwing can be adapted to accept a 12-bolt IRS diff with a spacer/mid-plate to make up for lack of material.