Will Edelbrock 1406 carb work on a 327 300HP?
 

I was thinking of replacing the original AFB with an Edelbrock 1406 .Will the carb bolt up to the stock 300HP manifold? Also will the stock dual snorkel work with the EdelbrocK? Spacers might cause a hood clearance problem?

Thanks

Here is one on my 1967. I'm not sure re the fit of your air cleaner.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...bspacer002.jpg

While the Edelbrock is a "clone" of an AFB, it's not a clone of your AFB. I belive it's actually based on the AFB model 9625, which was a 625 CFM aftermarket carburetor.

The Edelbrock will have a larger diameter air horn than the OE AFB (model 3721, I presume), and the fuel inlet will be in a different location. The Edelbrock will also have an electric choke.

Check the archives on this topic, though. I recall a while back that someone posted that the top of a 3721 AFB would interchange with the top of a modern Edelbrock. If so, that switch should let you use the stock air cleaner and the stock fuel line. The choke linkage may need a little persuading if you do that, however.

As far as fitting on the manifold goes, the Edelbrock (I believe) has a dual hole pattern on its mounting base. However, it has a different bore spacing that the 3721 AFB, so you would need to make sure the butterflies operate OK without interference. I think it will work, but that is something to check.

1. The original AFB and the 1406 have their gasoline inlets in different places. You'll need to fabricate a gas line to make them work. Please don't cut the original line and use a rubber line to connect to a barbed inlet. If you use a drop down air cleaner base, the gas line bending gets trickier. Edelbrock sells a drop down gas inlet to fit under drop down bases. About $75 with a filter.

2. Your original air cleaner won't fit the 1406. The 1406 has a 5 1/8" air horn. The original AFB air horn is 4 and something inches. As you stated, there isn't much room under the hood for adapters. You can buy a new air filter. Won't look original. May require a drop down base. And may require a complicated gas line.

3. The 1406 base has 6 mounting holes, so I believe (not sure) that it'll bolt to your original manifold. The accelerator control rod hook up is the same for both carbs.

4. Is the 1406 an electric choke? If so, you'll need to discard your hot air choke line. If you discard that line, and if the tube inside the manifold is leaking (many are), then you've now got an exhaust leak you can hear. You'll also have to wire in the choke. That's a simple job.

You may find it easier to rebuild your original AFB. They're easy to rebuild.

If you're going to take your carb apart to rebuild, you can swap your original AFB air horn (top) onto the new 1406 base. Then you'll have a mostly new carb, and the old gas line and air filter will bolt right up.

Thanks guys I thought as much as I has expereince with an AFB on my 1966 Barracuda. I did not realize that you could swap the top of the carb and make it work. Wouldn't that mess up the air flow ?

Steve

:iagree:

Had not thought of that!


[Rant]I'm still not happy about the IB buying CF ,slowing down the screen refreshes on my computer and locking one of my threads, so forgive me while I rant as I haven't posted here in a while. I came to this site for the information and have absorbed a great deal and always hoped that I could help others as well. This is what kept me here up until a few days ago, I still haven't found the "Perfect Site" since then but before IB, I had no need to go anywhere else. True I was not a sporrting member and still not to get the ads blocked, tried the Firefox thing but I'm mostly an IE user. There has to be a better answer.[/Rant]


But I hate to see you go the route I did. Been there, done that, yea it'll work but not what I had in mind. Get your old carb rebuilt by someone you trust, may need to have the throttle shafts shimmed to correct a possible vac leak and/or fuel leak. Go to the archives and search for my posts. Let's put it this way give me a few days and I'll have the 1406 and everything it takes to put on your car and have it fit under the hood. TRUST ME, PLEASE DON"T GO THERE!!!!! IT IS NOT A DIRECT REPLACEMENT

Get the AIM and do the job the way the General did it, metal baffle and all. Before I do mine I do want to seal the holes in the "Hot Slot" to keep the fuel cooler.
http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...ftGasLeaks.jpg

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...ntake-Carb.jpg

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...andMtlGskt.jpg

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...5Edelbrock.jpg

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w..._Carb_Base.jpg

Before I get flamed for the rubber hose and plastic filter, Rubber hoses have no place on the pressure side of the of the fuel pump, plumb with steel/stainless lines for safety.

Look for the metal fuel line in the picture below.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w...Vette/Fuel.jpg

Wish you the best, you brought me out of lurking.

Andy

fuel lines
 

Nice fuel line set up. Did all of your lines come from edelbrock or did you fab them?

Paul,
You did make a nice fuel system, esp. no rubber lines. Is this a vendor kit or did you make it up? Who's filter is that?

Louie

Is that an aluminum hard line leading to the Edelbrock filter?

I had an aluminum hard line like that on a car once. Engine vibration caused it to split due to metal fatigue and it begin leaking fuel. Never again will I use aluminum lines; steel lines only.

Jim

The filter is Edelbrock #8129. The fuel line is 3/8" steel brakeline tubing that I bent to the correct configuration with a tube bender. (Lars' paper on this subject has some great pointers.) The polished surface is due to some alloy wheel polish.

The fittings are 6AN with single, 37* flares on the tubing ends. They do not leak.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...-line005-1.jpg

I looked in the FAQs and found no paper on fuel lines by Lars. Could you post a link or give a precise reference? Gotta do my fuel lines like yours!

Louie,
Here you are.

http://lbfun.com/Corvette/Tech/vette...uel%20Line.pdf

It takes a bit of practice but heck, the winters are long here.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...bending001.jpg

Thanks Paul. I recall that I have a flare set that has sat unused for decades. Time to pull it out and get rid of the short length of rubber hose going into my Holley, and to add an inline filter to augment the tiny brass one in the carb.

Louie

Louie,
Just be careful re the 37*, single flare and 45*, double flares. Lars seems to say that both are OK given typical fuel pump pressures and I am not technically capable to question his judgement. I have not seen him post lately but if he is still out there perhaps he would be gracious and chime in. But I stuck with the AN 37* specs and they worked fine for me in 2007: not a drop of fuel spilt. I did use teflon paste judiciously on the connections, being careful to not let it enter in the fuel passages.

I can retrieve the part nos. for those AN connectors and tube sleeves if you need them. Darn, it will be -5*F tonight and I am not thinking Corvettes. Just thinking of getting my DD (2007 Impala) started tomorrow morning. Actually it is pretty good but you folks in CA must not miss this snow and salt! I have those snow tires and GM steel wheels on all four corners. The alloys and all-season tires go back on in April.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...earsnow004.jpg

being new to this, why do people recommend 37* flares to regular plumbers 45* double flare. i would think 45 has been used for years in plumbing and has had higher pressure. thanks jim

Paul,
I didn't know before I read Lars' tech paper that there were two angles of flares. Being a believer in the "perversity of inanimate objects," I'm likely to use one flare angle throughout the fuel lines.

Yes, I'd appreciate the parts numbers of the AN connectors and sleeves you used...... building on someone else's experience always any job easier.

Yeah, the snow and slush must get old fast. I once lived in Anchorage, Alaska for 8 months (working on oil rigs to make money for grad school) and didn't enjoy driving there even slightly.

Louie

Just a hunch..... the single 37* flare is probably popular because it is quicker and easier to do than a 45* double flare. Is it better? I have no clue... Personally, I take the time to make the 45 degree double flare on fuel and brake lines and they always work fine.

Jim

Louie,
Please see attached file for part numbers of the Russell/Edelbrock parts. The 90* elbow fits on the fuel pump end: NPT into the pump and 6AN for the fuel line. The 3/8" bulk steel tubing is inexpensive at NAPA and the like.

As to why I used 37* AN fittings, that is the standard used by Edelbrock on the fuel filter and fuel line junctions. I am sure that 45* fittings would serve just as well but Edelbrock was my choice.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...fy97/An010.jpg

I would point out that AN (AN = Army/Navy) is a military spec and has been well tested as to pressure ratings. So I feel comfortable in using it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AN_thread

Because AN fittings are all designed with a 37* flare, originally designed for aircraft applications; SAE fittings are designed with a 45* flare. Totally different fitting designs. :thumbs:

Paul, thanks for the info and links. You sure are organized!

Louie