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-   C4 Tech/Performance (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-tech-performance-48/)
-   -   Cam change in car or out (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c4-tech-performance/1788823-cam-change-in-car-or-out.html)

vetteset8087 08-18-2007 03:54 AM

Cam change in car or out
 
hey guys looked over this site for this info but did not find the answers I needed. First off I need to change the cam in my 87 TPI (cam gear is bad) is it possible to do this in the car without evacuating the A/C to remove the condensor. next does anybody have suggestion on heads I am running the stock aluminum heads with stainless roller rockers on a 383 with 9.86:1 compression accell 30 pph injectors the cam is valve lift .492 - duration is in 272 EX 282. I am running an SDS ECU so the factory ECU is not a concerne. I want to increase my mid range and a little more top end would be nice without loosing too much of the bottom end. I plan on keeping the factory TPI but changing to the bigger BBK throttlebody. I appreciate any help you can give me

Eike 08-18-2007 05:27 AM


is it possible to do this in the car without evacuating the A/C to remove the condensor.
It is.

http://www.vette91.de/lfsr/004.JPG
http://www.vette91.de/lfsr/043.JPG

tequilaboy 08-18-2007 09:40 AM

2 Attachment(s)
It is also possible to do with the intake still installed with some creative use of pen magnets:

Attachment 48178471

Attachment 48178472

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...y/IMG_0006.jpg

I did have to pull 1 motor mount bolt and jack the engine slightly for the cam to clear the cross-member, but it was not a problem at all.

coupeguy2001 08-18-2007 10:08 AM

cam
 
is it possible to do a cam swap and walk upright within 3 days?

drippingwithgold 08-18-2007 11:45 AM


Originally Posted by tequilaboy (Post 1561550619)
It is also possible to do with the intake still installed with some creative use of pen magnets:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...y/IMG_0002.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...y/IMG_0005.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...y/IMG_0006.jpg

I did have to pull 1 motor mount bolt and jack the engine slightly for the cam to clear the cross-member, but it was not a problem at all.

I like that trick!

vader86 08-18-2007 01:08 PM


Originally Posted by coupeguy2001 (Post 1561550861)
is it possible to do a cam swap and walk upright within 3 days?

Unfortunately no.

comp 08-18-2007 02:40 PM


Originally Posted by drippingwithgold (Post 1561551778)
I like that trick!

:iagree: :thumbs:

'Shifter 08-18-2007 03:09 PM

My back hurts just thinking about it....:smash:

LouisvilleLT4 08-18-2007 03:30 PM

I'm going to be contrary here and say that no, it's not possible to do it in car. Those pictures? Yeah they were faked.

Hey Tequilaboy, what function did the pen magnets serve? That looks like a pretty cool way of changing the cam out. Not pulling the intake would save a lot of steps.

aboatguy 08-18-2007 03:37 PM


Originally Posted by LouisvilleLT4 (Post 1561553905)
...what function did the pen magnets serve?

Holds the lifters so they don't drop when the cam is removed.


Good tip. But I just pull the engine, since pulling an LT1 is pretty simple and with my luck the lifters would fall.



Mike

vetteset8087 08-19-2007 01:16 PM

I have one a/c line that is ridgid what are you doing to move it are you just bending it to move the condensor or do I have an oddball freon line in mine. after reading about a million posts on here and third gen I am thinking about using the mini ram instead of the stock TPI. I can build a motor just fine but when it comes to figuring out the right parts to use I suck. Does anybody have any advice on cam and heads for the mini ram on this 383. this car is a weekend warrior light to light racing some illegal night drags and on occassion a highway cruiser. The engine description is in the first post but I left out a couple things
700r4 auto 2200 or 2400 rpm stall
354 rear end gear
msd 6AL
the SDS ECU is crank triggerd and programable for fuel and timing
stock exhaust manifolds
hollowed out pre-cats
Hi flow cat
flowmaster cat-back

I appreciate any and all advice you can offer

JackDidley 08-19-2007 01:58 PM

The condensor can stay hooked up. May have to wiggle it around, I do not remember. On my 87, I did not even jack up the motor. :cheers:

rickneworleansla 02-13-2009 03:09 PM


Originally Posted by tequilaboy (Post 1561550619)
It is also possible to do with the intake still installed with some creative use of pen magnets:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...y/IMG_0002.jpg

I did have to pull 1 motor mount bolt and jack the engine slightly for the cam to clear the cross-member, but it was not a problem at all.

I know this is an old thread but I was wondering who else has swaped cams this way, without removing the intake? I'm getting ready to do a cam swap real soon and I may try it this way. Where did you get these pen magnets from so I'll know they'll work/fit?

Thanks

STL94LT1 02-13-2009 04:52 PM


Originally Posted by rickreeves1 (Post 1568934949)
I know this is an old thread but I was wondering who else has swaped cams this way, without removing the intake? I'm getting ready to do a cam swap real soon and I may try it this way. Where did you get these pen magnets from so I'll know they'll work/fit?

Thanks

Rick, on the LTx engines you need to pull the intake to remove the oil pump drive, L98's it's part of the distributor.

pologreen1 02-14-2009 12:13 AM

this was an awesome thread.

ekess744 02-14-2009 12:16 AM


Originally Posted by coupeguy2001 (Post 1561550861)
is it possible to do a cam swap and walk upright within 3 days?

maybe for gumby

mseven 02-14-2009 03:39 AM


Originally Posted by vetteset8087 (Post 1561549448)
is it possible to do this in the car without evacuating the A/C to remove the condensor.

yes, I removed the radiator, shroud, fans, intake (swapped out) and dist. I also removed the motor mount bolts, so that the motor could be raised in the car (dist.will need to come out), which allowed the cam to clear the cross brace. I had to have someone hold the condenser up, and on an angle so that I could remove and install the cam. Because of the twist I put on the flexable ac lines doing it this way, some of the ac lines seemed a bit loose after the install was complete.
I had the entire car up in the air and on stands, front tires off which is alot easier to work on, not to mention your back.

Street89vette 05-30-2016 06:52 PM


Originally Posted by mseven (Post 1568942199)
yes, I removed the radiator, shroud, fans, intake (swapped out) and dist. I also removed the motor mount bolts, so that the motor could be raised in the car (dist.will need to come out), which allowed the cam to clear the cross brace. I had to have someone hold the condenser up, and on an angle so that I could remove and install the cam. Because of the twist I put on the flexable ac lines doing it this way, some of the ac lines seemed a bit loose after the install was complete.
I had the entire car up in the air and on stands, front tires off which is alot easier to work on, not to mention your back.

Great thread! got any pics of the project?

Street89vette 05-30-2016 06:57 PM


Originally Posted by tequilaboy (Post 1561550619)
It is also possible to do with the intake still installed with some creative use of pen magnets:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...y/IMG_0002.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...y/IMG_0005.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...y/IMG_0006.jpg

I did have to pull 1 motor mount bolt and jack the engine slightly for the cam to clear the cross-member, but it was not a problem at all.

Great thread information! Does the oil pan have to drop down ?

mtwoolford 05-30-2016 08:49 PM


Originally Posted by tequilaboy (Post 1561550619)
It is also possible to do with the intake still installed with some creative use of pen magnets:

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...y/IMG_0002.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...y/IMG_0005.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...y/IMG_0006.jpg

I did have to pull 1 motor mount bolt and jack the engine slightly for the cam to clear the cross-member, but it was not a problem at all.

Undeniably, that's slick, but if any cam lobe(s) show wear or damage at all, the corresponding lifter roller wheel is also damaged and that damage will be transferred to the new cam lobe.


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