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- - Reindexing HVAC actuators.... (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/1465931-reindexing-hvac-actuators.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster

I have a question.. I have the problem with the Driver Side being warmer than the PAssenger...

I do not show any HVAC codes.. Never have as far as I could tell.. Is it possible I can still fix it with your indexing procedure?

Check the other thread Chuck. Replacing the orifice tube (since I was cracking the system open to replace the seals at the back of the compressor anyway), evacuating and refilling per the specified freon level (weight not pressure) cured my problem. (I had no codes as well).

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1434320&page=4

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater

I agree. 134A is hard to get right by pressure alone. It works a lot better to pull the old out and put in the required amount of ounces.

JR_VETTE, thanks very much for the helpful info! :thumbs:

I changed my battery and had hot air blowing out the driver's side. I did the code reset procedure and now it's fixed. I went ahead and ordered the LH actuator in case this comes back with the intention of reindexing the one in the car now so I'll always have a spare.

Thanks again for the great website!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by 98Pacecar

What's the part# and how much, my 99 coupe, same deal.
Herbie

Quote:

Originally Posted by JR_VETTE

After battling B0441 and B0361 HVAC codes off and on for several years :willy: , I finally decided to do something about it. After searching the helpful CF.com, I stumbled upon a thread where forum member YO-EL :thumbs: responded to someone that was having the same problem that the Actuator simply needed to be reindexed. Since then, I have done some additional research, and have performed and documented reindexing the drivers side HVAC door. I see WAY too many threads here where people are getting these same codes, and other members WRONGLY tell them to add more Freon :eek: . The above codes have NOTHING at all do to with Freon!

Anyway, long story short, I created a webpage documenting my experience with the codes, how to remove, reindex and reinstall the drivers side actuator and what seemed to cause my codes to popup. For some reason, the drivers side actuator seems to be the one that always acts up. There is probably more to determining how many 'teeth' to index by, or what direction to turn the Actuator drive gear, but from others that have reindexed, 2 teeth counter-clockwise seems to be the way to go. If anybody has more information regarding this, please PM or reply to this thread.

If you need to reindex the passenger actuator, you're on your own. :D The process is probably similar, I just can't tell you which way to reindex, and how many teeth.

I thought this might help those who are running into this problem. The usual disclaimers, etc....

Dont' blast me over the page....it's a first draft, and I probably left something out in the removal instructions.

Link

Hello0 JrVette! Herbie here from Miami. I had exactly the same problem on my 99 coupe, printed your instructions and got the lh actuator out from under there. Whew! it's a chore getting to it from underneath on your backside. When I take it out, guess what? It's a 2001+, see pics.
There was no blue gear in there, just all white gears. I moved them counterclockwise 2 teeth anyway. Same problem. It turns out, I beleive
my dealer had fixed this around July 13, Marrone Chevrolet of West Dade. i was hearing the blend door clicking, and according to the bill I have he replaced 89018365 actuator. 173.59 for the part and 339.08 for the labor, 512 bucks in all. So, I am letting them mess with it. should still be under 90 warranty for a dealer repair right, unless I just voided it by opening it up. How do you insert a jpeg in here? Want to show you the part.
herbie

Quote:

Originally Posted by hcolon

I don't think they'd ever know. Just put it back together. I did get an email from somebody just today that said they did 2 clicks clockwise and it actually fixed his problem. He did 2 teeth counter clockwise and it didn't fix it. If it's still in peices, you might want to give that a shot. If you do, report back if you don't mind so I can update the document accordingly.

And yes, it's a real pain to get to! :iagree:

Well I guess I know what I'm going to be doing this week.....
Really great write up, thanks.:thumbs:

Great info and good of you to make it available to all. :thumbs: :thumbs:

Well I have the same problem, took it to the dealer and i was low on freon, recharged it and out the door real cold. A year later problem is back, but i have a leak in the system. Im NOT saying that the info here is not right, BUT freon did magically work for me....it seems until now.
I clear the codes out while riding down the road and you feel cooler air coming from the floor and then after about 5 seconds it goes to very warm. I know it is low on freon because the pass side is even warm, though not as warm as the drivers side.
Just my 2 cents.

Great post...I did mine last year and it fixed the issue..:cheers:

Quote:

Originally Posted by JR_VETTE

JRVETTE, turns out the actuator was shorted.(At least that was what the dealer said) New actuator under warranty, nice and cold again. Guess what, the dealer mech guy, I asked him about the indexing, and he said it actually works, but they do not do it, they just install the 2001+ units, at of course a bill of 500.00 big bucks. Just to let you know. great write up! Keep up the good work.
Herbie

Quote:

Originally Posted by hcolon

Sweet! Thanks for the update Herbie. :cheers:

I didnt have any HVAC codes, but I reset it anyway and the drivers side got allot cooler, not as cold as the passenger side, but at least it's not blowing heated air now....

I think I will re-index the actuator when it cools off some more. It's kind of rough crawling around in there when it's still hittin 105 degrees outside...:smash:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Desertdawg

If you don't have codes, I'd say there's a good chance your HVAC doors are functionng correctly. You might want to verify that you have sufficient freon before you dig into the dash...trust me, save that for last! :lol:

Passenger side Actuator

Great information here guys! Unfortunately my 2000 is throwing codes for the passenger side. I've tried disconnecting the battery several times to reset the actuator, but no luck. :crazy:

Can anyone give me the part # for a replacement passenger side actuator and a description of where it is located in the car? It sounds like something I could do myself - and avoiding a $500 bill from the stealership would be great!

Thanks in advance, :cheers:
Trevor

FANTASTIC POST!!! :thumbs: :flag:

Quote:

Originally Posted by FletcherT76

Here's the information directly from the service manual. I didn't include the pictures. Let me know if you need a picture of what they are talking about. Long story short, they are wanting you to remove the dash pad (among other things!). This was exactly what it said for the drivers side actuator. I decided it would be easier to come up from below the dash. I can't say for sure if you can do the same with the passenger actuator. I would recommend exploring the possibility of getting to the actuator from under the dash. The instructions below are ugly. Please report back and let us know if the passenger actuator is accessible from under the dash if you decide to go that route.

Also, what codes are you getting?

Remove the front floor kick-up panel. Refer to Kick-Up Panel Replacement - Front Floor in Interior Trim.
Remove the cover from the IP electrical center.
Remove the HVAC CON (HVAC controls) MiniFuse® #27 from the IP electrical center.
Remove the console. Refer to Console Replacement .
Remove the IP accessory trim plate. Refer to Trim Plate Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Accessory .
Remove the driver knee bolster trim panel. Refer to Trim Panel Replacement - Knee Bolster .
Remove the instrument panel compartment. Refer to Compartment Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) .
Remove the windshield defroster grille. Refer to Defroster Grille Replacement .
Insert the DRL and sunload sensors, if equipped, into the nearest openings in the windshield defroster duct. Moving the sensors into the defroster duct provides additional clearance to remove the trim pad.
Remove the windshield side garnish moldings. Refer to Windshield Side Garnish Molding Replacement in Stationary Windows.
Remove the screws retaining the upper trim pad to the defroster duct.
Remove the screws retaining the upper trim pad to the LH and RH hinge pillars.
Remove the screws retaining the IP cluster bezel to the upper trim pad.
Remove the screws retaining the upper trim pad to the driver knee bolster outer bracket and the center support bracket.
Remove the screw retaining the upper trim pad to the passenger SIR bracket.
Tilt the steering wheel to the lowest position.
Lift the rearward edge of the upper trim pad approximately 5 cm (2 in) to provide clearance for the air distribution duct located on the underside of the trim pad.
SLOWLY pull the upper trim pad away from the windshield while guiding the tabs on the LH and RH side of the trim pad past the hinge pillars.
Disconnect the hazard warning switch electrical connector.
Remove the upper trim pad from the vehicle.
Disconnect the RH side window defogger outlet duct - lower from the windshield defroster duct, then reposition the side window defogger outlet duct forward.
Remove the defroster valve vacuum actuator. Refer to Defroster Actuator Replacement in Manual system or Defroster Actuator Replacement in Automatic system.
Remove the I/P lower insulator panel - RH. Refer to Closeout/Insulator Panel Replacement - Instrument Panel (I/P) Lower in Instrument Panel, Gauges and Console.
Remove the lower half of the RH floor air outlet duct. Using a flat bladed screwdriver or similar tool, release the retaining tabs, then remove the lower duct.
Remove the floor air outlet duct retaining screws.
Reposition the floor air outlet duct downward to better access the RH temperature valve electric actuator.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the RH temperature valve electric actuator.
Remove the two screws retaining the RH temperature valve electric actuator.
Remove the electric actuator.

I don't have a part number for the passenger actuator. Shoot a PM to one of the supporting GM vendors. I'm sure they can help you. :thumbs:

Thanks JR_Vette - that sounds UGLY!!! :leaving:

I'm working in Denver this week so if I get into it this weekend I'll report back.

I'm getting B0367 and B0446 from the HVAC unit (those are the only two). I've cleared them a couple times, disconnect/reconnect the battery several times as well - still nothing but freezing air out the passenger side.

I'll give Fred Beans a call and see if I can get a replacement actuator.

Ok Guys ... I've been following this post for a couple weeks now ... The wife and I have taken the vette out a couple mornings lately when it's been pretty cold out ... The driver side gets very toasty and warm while the passenger side blows out cool air ...

I checked for HVAC codes and had none ... so I tried the whole disconnect the battery and hope everything resets properly ... well it didn't and after that battery disconnect, I now get the B0446 code for the passenger side actuator ...

Has anyone successfully pulled out the passenger side actuator yet? If so, were you able to get to it without removing the dash and did you either rotate the gear or replace ???

Thanks...

Anyone removed the passenger side actuator yet?