Step by Step Aux Input Added to Nav Instructions
 

First, let me say that this is not for the faint of heart and I accept no responsibility for your installation. If you make a mistake, you’ll toast a Nav radio. That being said, if you choose to continue, here is what I did to add an AUX input to my Nav radio:

Step 1: Order the PAC AAI-GM24 harness from Logjam electronics or similar vendor.

Step 2: Have the harness drop shipped to forum member TeamSpeed for certain modifications. Although this step is not required, trust me folks, it will make your life so much easier.

Step 3: To install the module, you have to be able to get to the radio head unit. Part of the center console will need to be removed. First to go is the center console lid. Let’s start with the 4 Torx screws in the console lid as shown below.
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/bla...onsole_lid.jpg

Step 4: Next, pry up on the rear of the trim plate holding the air bag warning light. It just snaps on to the console but it is plastic so be careful. Unplug the connector and set the trim plate aside.

Step 5: Remove the 2 bolts that were under the trim plate as shown here:
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/bla..._bag_bolts.jpg

Step 6: Pull straight up on the emergency brake boot. This boot is held in place by 4 clip fasteners, but it will come loose with a little effort.

Step 7: Once the e-brake boot has been lifted, remove the two bolts from the console under the e-brake boot located here:
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/bla...rake_bolts.jpg

Step 8: For an automatic transmission car, the shifter needs to be put into Drive to remove the silver center console piece. Slowly start to lift the rear portion of the silver trim. I say slowly because in my case, there are 6 electrical connections that need to be unplugged. Start with the 12 volt power port in the console, next the active handling switch. Moving forward, the left heated seat switch, then the cigarette lighter, then the right heated seat switch. Last, unplug the hazard switch in the center of the air vents. The silver trim should now raise up and can be removed.

Step 9: Remove the 2 bolts on either side of the climate control. Pull forward and just let it rest on the console. The climate control has 2 tabs that fit into the radio frame so it has to be moved out of the way.

Step 10: Remove the 4 bolts on either side of the Nav unit. Place the palm of your hand under the Nav unit and lift slightly while pulling forward. You want to be very careful that nothing is going to scratch the Nav face while you have it out on the console.

Step 11: This is what the back of your Nav unit looks like. Note the Gray/Black plug on the right. That is the one we are going to replace. Press on the lock and just pull it out:
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/blazer//nav_plugs.jpg

Step 12: If you have the TeamSpeed modifications, go to Step 13. If you didn’t have TeamSpeed modify your AAI-GM24 harness, locate the purple wire from the GM 24 module that is spliced into the “pass-through” part of the T-harness. Cut this purple wire off of the splice, making sure that you do not cut the portion that passes from one plug to another. The purple wire should now be similar to the yellow wire coming out of the GM24 module. Plug the GM 24 harness into the Nav unit and the other end connects to the gray/black plug you removed in Step 11.

Step 13: Make the following connections from the AAI-GM24 module to the 24 pin plug still in the back of your Nav unit. It was easier for me to remove the 24 pin plug, make all the connections by pressing the connectors into the back of the 24 pin plug (Thanks TeamSpeed!) and use a wire tie to hold everything in place. If you don’t have the TeamSpeed modifications, you’ll have to make your own splices:
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/bla...structions.jpg

Step 14: Before you put the Nav radio back in the dash, use a small screwdriver to turn the input levels on the GM24 all the way clockwise. Also tape up any exposed wires that are coming out of the GM24 module.

Step 15: Carefully slide the Nav unit back and install the 4 bolts to hold it in place.

Step 16: Plug the RCA cable from your mp3 player in to the Yellow banded RCA plugs on the GM24 harness. The RCA plugs are labeled incorrectly for the Nav unit so the Red RCA plug from your mp3 player goes to the Black labeled RCA plug on the GM 24 and vice versa. I also used a piece of electrical tape at these connections to keep them from pulling apart.

Step 17: The GM24 module fits perfectly under the Nav radio and to the right of the climate control..you’ll notice a pocket to the right of the Yaw control there.

Step 18: Route your Aux input cable under the climate control and replace the 2 bolts on the climate control as shown here:
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/bla...able_route.jpg

Step 19: You’ll need to drill a hole somewhere in your console for the Aux cable to exit. I chose the inside of the console, opposite the power port. It’s your car, so you decide what works best for you. Either way, don’t forget a grommet to protect your cable. Here’s mine:
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/bla...cable_exit.jpg

Step 20: Re-connect all the electrical connections, replace the console trim and bolts, replace the console lid.

Step 21: When you power up your radio, you’ll notice the standard AM, FM1, FM2, and CD buttons have been replaced with: AM, FM1/2, XM1/2, and CD/CDX. Like this:
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/blazer//nav_after.jpg

Step 22: Start your mp3 player, press the CD/CDX button (twice if you have a CD in the Nav unit) and you’ll see this screen:
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/bla...av_changer.jpg

Step 23: Enjoy your new Aux input!

WoW ! Nice ! :cool: :thumbs: :cheers:
Could I just drop ship my car to you?
Looks like I have something to do next week. Thanx for the info :flag:

Blazer, thanks for the writeup...Couple of questions, what does Teamspeed charge to modify the harness? What does he do to it?

And the according to logjams website the part # you listed is for Corvette's W/O NAV?? Are you sure PAC AAI-GM24 is the correct part?

Thanks....

Blazer, nevermind...just read the other post on this subject and found the answers there.

Pete,

A great big THANK YOU :cheers:

Awsome post Blazer....Thanks for all your work. One question, The three wires from the GM24 module that get 'spliced' into the OEM connector, do you disconnect the OEM wires and replace with the GM24 wires or are they just "tapped" into the existing OEM wire without removing it??? Thanks for your help.

If any one wants me to do the wire mods for you, here is one possible scenario:

1) Order your PAC unit and give the vendor my address for the shipping address, fire off an email to let me know how to match up your order to you directly, and give me your address.

OR

2) Email me w/ a request and your address, and I will give you my address to mail your PAC unit to.

then

3) Send paypal payment of $12 to
I will do the following for you:

1) Cut the purple wire off the splice, cap off the cut end
2) Add 3 quick connectors to the 3 wires (purple, black, yellow)
3) Relabel the 4 rca connectors so you know the proper right/left configuration
4) Send a copy of Blazer's writeup w/the altered PAC unit via USPS priority mail back to you

I know it does not seem like much for $12, but what my mods allow you to do is if you ever have problems with your NAV, you can quickly detach the PAC unit without worrying about wire splices, etc.

Of course you could do the same kind of mods by purchasing spade connectors at Radio Shack and doing the alterations yourself or using wire splices, but some people like the simplicity of having someone else mess with this for them. :cheers:

If there is any amount of interest in this, I will amend my Radar Cord site with this detail to consolidate this info into one place.

If you get the harness modified from TeamSpeed, he'll put some connectors on it so that you can just push the three wires from the GM24 right into the back of the OEM plug. If you choose to do this yourself, you need to either get some ScotchLocks or cut and splice the connections yourself. No matter which way you choose, the OEM wires need to stay intact...the three new wires are just "added-on".

Thanks Blazer. You da' Man.

03-red-z06 - you are absolutely correct. The PAC AAI-GM24 states specifically that it will not work with the Nav. I can attest that is indeed correct. However, once this harness is modified as I outlined in my post it does work...very well I might add. I had been working with Joe Riggs at PAC Audio for two weeks and after getting pin-outs of radios, different wire combinations, etc., together, we developed a work-around that will indeed work with the Nav. I am pretty sure PAC is going to offer an additional harness for the Nav, but if you buy the existing harness, make some mods to it, you won't have to wait for PAC to produce this "new" harness.

Great writeup! Thanks for finally solving this ongoing issue for those of us that love our MP3 players.

I noticed in another thread that the 12-disc remote changer is now available from GM. It appears that the cable in this thread makes use of the external/remote changer input on the Nav unit for the aux input since the CD line now says CD/CDX. If this is the case, setting it up this way may preclude adding the remote changer later and still using this cable for the ipod. Can someone clarify this for me? Thanks.

John

Thank you Blazer for this write up!

I do have to mention that my installer looked at this setup and had a concern.

Please see the attached link from PAC.

http://www.pac-audio.com/bulletins/os2.htm

If you take this to the dealer and they perform updates to your BCM or PCM, you could render your modules inoperative.

Just a heads-up.

Patrick

I have placed all the directions by Blazer into a doc that you can download and use at your leisure. Hope this helps!

http://mysite.verizon.net/ccm.gerber/aaigm24.doc

Patrick,

I am aware of the warning. The version I installed in my car is version 1.2.9 so clearly it is a newer version than the 1.1.5 they warn about reprogramming. Either way, just to be more safe than sorry, if the day ever came where this car saw the inside of a dealership service bay, I'd go ahead and pull the fuse anyway.

I tested it out on a 50 mile road trip today and it worked great. But by all means, if this mod gives you concern, just don't do it.

I don't have either XM or a cd changer in my car. I can get the aux input to come on by pressing either the XM button OR the CDX button so I believe they do come through the same 12 pin port. But just to make everyone happy, if someone wants to UPS me an XM module AND a new CD changer, I'll be happy to install it in my car and let you know the results :D

:thumbs: :thumbs:

Now if there was a way to tap a C5 without having to buy a COR HAR cable, and just plug the aux. input GM10 AUX right into the two plugs under the passenger panel... Wanna help with that, Blazer? I've got the car, and you have the tech. contacts! ;)

Outstanding :thumbs:

Patrick,

I forwarded your concern to Joe Riggs at PAC Audio and here is his response to the BCM/PCM flashing issues. I believe all is well.

Pete,



There are no issues when flashing the PCM/BCM with the AAI-GM24 installed, yes, there were some issues with the older versions but we have fixed the issue. It’s good to hear things are still working great for you. If you have any other questions feel free to contact me whenever.



Thank you,

Joe Riggs

Tech Support

Pacific Accessory Corp

Thanks Pete! That is good news! Great Job! :flag: :cool: :thumbs:


Patrick

Blazer / Teamspeed - need your help!
 

I want to modify the PAC GM 24 to feed the audio to a LS6 line level adaptor. Can you help with the PAC GM 24 modifications? I have the 1SB with nav and there are lots of us that this will solve not being able to hear our music with the roof off! Thanks for all you two have already done! :cheers:

The GM 24 adapter takes the output from a given device (mp3 player, etc.) and converts it to line level out for you. The GM24 then feeds this line level output into the Nav radio line level input. If you want to capture just the line level output, you could easily do that by just tapping into the GM24 harness on the opposite of the GM24 module. Am I understanding your question correctly? You want to INPUT line level into the LS6 adapter? If so, just tap the line level on the back side of the PAC GM24 and you're all set.

Yes that is exactly what I want to do. I was wondering if you had the pin outs from the HU (GM 24 harness) and if I need to cut the harness wires for each speaker or if I should tap into the each wire in order to connect to the LS6 (and thus to my amps).

My understanding is that I need to leave many of the connections in place (antenna trigger, amp power etc) and pass them through the PAC GM 24 so that the rest of the integrated conponents still operate. Is this correct?

Bottom line questions...
1) Can I just cut the speaker wires on the PAC GM24 harness and feed them to the LS6 or do I have to tap the wires, and
2) Could you post the speaker pin outs from the HU 24 pin harness? I have two conflicting sets of pin outs and I really trust your insight.

Thanks!!! :flag:

Pin-outs for the Nav radio:

12 way connector

Pin A - Orange - Amplifier Mute Signal
Pin B - Gray - Radio Vehicle Noise Compression Enable Signal
Pin C - Not Used
Pin D - Dark Green/White Tracer - Vehicle Speed Signal (Denso Radios)
Pin E - Not Used
Pin F - Not Used
Pin G - Not Used
Pin H - Dark Green/White Tracer - Right Audio Signal
Pin J - Brown/White Tracer - Left Audio Signal
Pin K - Tan/White Tracer - Audio Common
Pin L - Light Blue - Remote Playback Device Audio Common Signal (UL2/UE1)
Pin M - Orange/Blck Tracer - Remote Playback Device Audio Signal (UL2/UE1)

24 way connector - Row A on Top side, Row B on Bottom Side

Pin A1 - Orange - Class 2 Data Bus
Pin A2 - Not Used
Pin A3 - Not Used
Pin A4 - Yellow - FM Composite Signal
Pin A5 - Not Used
Pin A6 - Not Used
Pin A7 - Not Used
Pin A8 - Tan - Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin A9 - Dark Green - Left Front Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin A10 - Tan - Right Rear Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin A11 - Dark Blue - Right Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin A12 - Black/White Tracer - Ground
Pin B1 - Red/White Tracer - Battery Positive Voltage
Pin B2 - Not Used
Pin B3 - White - Antenna Enable Signal
Pin B4 - Not Used
Pin B5 - Not Used
Pin B6 - Orange - Amplifier Mute Signal
Pin B7 - Not Used
Pin B8 - Brown/White Tracer - Left Rear Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin B9 - Brown - Left Rear Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin B10 - Light Green - Right Front Low Level Audio Signal (-)
Pin B11 - Dark Green - Right Front Low Level Audio Signal (+)
Pin B12 - Not Used

PAC AAI-GM24 Wiring:

White wire - Right Audio Signal (Line Level)
Gray wire - Left Audio Signal (Line Level)
Black wire - Audio Common Ground
Purple wire - Class 2 Data Bus

Blazer - you are a stereophile's hero! Thanks for your help! I hope that someone put this thread into an archive somewhere!

Happy to help :cheers:

And no issues with using both the NAV, XM Radio and the Aux input? (Not at the same time, of course). Does the select button step through to allow the selection of XM or Aux?

Can you use the AUX imput to install a DVD player?

Anyone have a problem with putting this in a 6 speed car? I followed these instructions to the 'T' and am getting dead batteries. I know its just from the installation of this cause I took it out for a week and didn't have a dead battery, day after I put it back in, of course got a dead battery. Anyways just wondering if anyone else is experiencing this. Thanks.

I don't have the XM so I can't answer that. However, I use the CD changer button to listen to my mp3 player. Once you add the AUX input, the cd button changes from CD to CD/CDX. Press it twice, that puts you in CD changer mode and the mp3 player works.

USe the Monster FM Transmitter..Works Great...

blazer, hey i just got the parts in and i am somewhat confused. What are the modifications that teamspeed is doing? i want to do them to the gm24 adaptor i just received. I just got back in from out of town and cant wait to make this all work.
Thanks, Dave

Hey Dave - TeamSpeed will put the same connectors on the PAC harness that he uses for the V1 hardwire harness. You won't have to cut any OEM wiring for the splices that way.

Anyone know the answer to this one?

Yes, this is a problem with the specific to the gm24 & man 6sp. I talked to PAC audio about this and here's what I found out -

The pinB1 (oem red/white tracers), that the gm24 yellow wire connects to, is constant power in the manual c6, so when you hookup the gm24 unit it's draining the battery.

You have to find an alternate rap power source, or hookup a relay.


I myself have not tested all the harness plugs with the volt meter to see what their state is during engine-running or total shutdown with and without the gm24 unit to verify this.

I just took my gm24 unit out and have been fine for quite some time now.

Not too difficult to find a switched power source from the fuse pannel under the passenger's foot well.

I found another thread regarding adding a 12v accessory line to the car, as above to the passenger side fuse panel.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...9&forum_id=101

(hope that link works - if not, do a search for "12v")


I did the add-a-circuit method, connect to the "wiper/htd-seat relay" fuse. Ran the gm24 unit as normal, except the "gm24 yellow" power line to the fuse panel with add-a-circuit.

Aux-audio only available when the engine is running. Runs great. No battery drain.

Isn't there a switched power source at the radio? Even the manual transmission shuts the radio off when the car is off.

This is only a problem in the manual c6's.

Unfortunately, it was found that the the power feeding into the radio is constant power. The gm24 unit, which was tapping into that, was thusly running my battery down.

The auto c6's don't have this same problem, and can be tapped into the radios power line using the manufacturers instructions verbatim.

I'm sure they'll figure something out, but for the time being...tap into the fuse.

(the above was confirmed by pac audio in conversation, and myself in implimentation both ways)

There must be a switched line to the radio somewhere, how else would it turn off when the car turns off?

I would add the guess that it's a programming feature because there is not a descriptor on the pin listings that shows switched power. In other words, the radio gets power all the time based on what the pin descriptors say, so there could be a data signal that tells it to shut off much of its internals once the door is opened and the ignition is off (or once the timeout runs).

ok i have a lot of news for you guys and a lot of questions. I tried installing the PAC AAI-GM24 aux input adaptor again using the same directions.

Here is whats important: there is no switched power in our C6's. i have damn near tried everything from the harness on the back of the NAV unit to the fuse for the heated seats. Everything is on hot all the time. But hey thats not such a big surprise to me. So if you noticed on the PAC AAI-GM24 unit there are a bunch of leads for a red wire a red and yellow wire and an orange wire? well these are switched power wires however they cant handle much power at all.

My big discovery was that the BCM (body control module) sends a signal *after* roughly 30 seconds to turn everything off in different stages.
I believe the sequence for powerdown after exiting the car is:
immediately turn off engine and main electronics including nav *screen*
15 seconds turn off courtesy lamps.
30 seconds turn off dash lights.
45-60 seconds turn off Nav unit including spinning of nav disk and rear nav unit cooling fan.
now everything is off.

The reason i know this is because if you turn your car off and sit in it. you can hear the relays cut off power at those diferent stages.

when you add the GM24 module the light and the module turn off after around 30 seconds. This unit also shuts down the accessory triggers that you could use as a remote turn on lead for your amp or if you want to be ahead of all this add a relay that turns on a high amp circuit.

I am unsure because i havent had enough time to test but a lot of us were ending up with dead batteries after installing this unit.
i found out that the modifications that teamspeed did to the harness arent holding very well and arent making a good connection, probably because i had been fidgeting with them too much causing a really poor connection... As soon as the connection is broken the module forgets to turn off during the power off routine when you exit the car. The reason i think this is happening is that the unit must receive some sort of digital signal that tells it to shut down, from the BCM. Once a connection is lost on the data bus line i think it chokes and just stays on. Make sure you have a good connection! test it to see if the status light on the module goes off after a minute or so after turning off the car and opening and shutting the door to get rid of retained accesory power.

I still want to find a true switched power in my C6. Its annoying that i cant rewire my accessory power for my cell phone charger to turn off with normal shutdown.

I hope this helps somone. I have spent way too much time on this and i think i may have figured it out.

I am going to be adding a subwoofer. i have seen many posts about different methods. can someone please tell me what i need to do to figure this out.

please correct me if i am wrong about any of this. I want to figure this out for sure as much as many others do.

I never was able to figure out why the PAC GM harness was running my battery down, and I just gave up on it.

Decided I could live without a Aux input until there is a real plug and play solution like there is for vitually every other car in the world.

i just woke up this morning and tried starting the car. it looks like everything is ok... It didnt kill the battery overnight. What method were you attaching the module? were you splicing into the 24 pin oem harness? did you unplug the battery while you were working on it? i think that you have to for the BCM to work right with the GM24

We followed the instructions on this thread exactly. We did use Version 2 of the PAC GM harness. Is that what you used?

I will say this though...the PAC unit did shut down the car about one-third of the time....it was an intermittant problem for some reason. one minute the car would shut down, one minute it would not. The way we could tell was by looking at the amps and at the light on the PAC unit.

We called PAC about the problem and to confirm that we had hooked the unit up correctly. We had...we just could not figure out the problem.

As to subwoofers, see the following thread for what I did to change out my stock subwoofers and add amps for the system:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...08&forum_id=20

I installed the system and now I can't hear onstar or the onboard phone any more. The mic still works because I can say, "My Number" and it's displayed on the DIC. Also, I found that I can't have a CD in the in dash unit or the CD Changer screen won't come up.

Anyone else having this problem?

Sean

I am with the government and I'm here to help... this thread was put in the FAQ yesterday TO BE FOREVER IMMORTALIZED!

:cheers:

Can anyone confirm a successful installation of this on a 2005 nav system with a manual transmission? I really want to hook-up my iPod but I am leery with all the talk of power drains. I'm okay if it breaks the OnStar (my subscription just ran out).

Thanks in advance,

Zach

Can't confirm but the next trick I'm going to try is hard wiring the power to a hard on off.

very nicely done. Thanks for the wonderful post.

I have a man6 w/nav.

I posted on page2 here how mine works now - I did the add-a-circuit method to feed power to the pac unit (tapped into the fuse panel on the passenger footwell). It's been working for the past couple months without a problem.

No dbs. Everything shuts down as expected. Lots of endless music from my little sony.

This fix will not work on the 06 C6.

The new vette has the new 32bit processor and GMLAN which is the same as the XLR Cadillac (corvette)

I spoke with Joe Riggs about this and they are working on it.

Meanwhile I installed a hard wired FM modulator to the radio so I can hook up my IPOD, so far I have to open up everything because I have the gain turned up too high on the modulator and the signal being pumped in to the radio is distorted.

i wil do this fix next week sometime, I'm out of commission right now, just had surgery and the Dr will not let me do anything so far.... :(

I can confirm that I have it working on a manual 05. I too did the add-a-circuit method. My only complaint (and it's mainly cause I've been too lazy to look for a different fuse) is that the power seats fuse turns off with the engine so there's no listening to the iPod in Accessory mode. At this point, it's better than nothing. Now if I could just get my Nano's screen to stop breaking. I just sent my second one back *sigh*.

Sean

When?
 

Did Joe Riggs give any kind of timeframe? I had my installer follow these directions and I get a CDX error after 5-10 minutes and the button returns to CD. :rofl:

That would tell me that your installer picked a power source that's turning off after ten minutes. I have the opposite problem because I used the heated seats circuit for power, mine does what you describe the second I turn off the car.

Sean

Problems after Radio Update
 

Ok, so I don't confuse this issue, here's the timeline...

After I installed the Aux adapter as described in this thread in my 05 Manual, and got the power situation handled, all was working well EXCEPT when I turned the engine off, the volume on the stereo would shoot up really loud... regardless of the auto volume setting on the stereo.

I installed the update to the NAV and Radio firmware to try to get MP3 cd's to work, plus someone in that thread mentioned that it fixed an issue with the Automatic Level function so I thought it might solve my volume shooting up problem. Nope. In fact, since installing the updated firmware, my Aux adaptor works only 50% of the time now (when it's not working, I press the CDX button, but it doesn't switch to the changer screen it just stays on the current input). Shutting the stereo off and on has no effect.

So I took the whole thing apart and thought I'd disconnect the aux adaptor to test the volume problem and joila! It went away. So now my volume stays constant when I turn the motor off but I have no aux adaptor. If I reconnect the aux adaptor, it works (now) 50% of the time but the volume problem is back. *sigh*

Am I the only one having this problem? :willy:

Sean

Great article!! How is the sound quality? Are you getting CD quality sound out of this connection? Will the PAC device work with the stock AM/FM/CD radio? Thanks

Great!


I just had a heart attack!

Update: I contacted TeamSpeed as suggested to make the modifications to the harness. This was his reply:

"I don't do the mods to the PAC unit any more because the mods only seemed to work on one firmware revision number. PAC changed something in the subsequent versions such that the mods outlined by Blazer seemed to drain the battery down because the vehicle would not shut down power in the 10 minute timeout. I am not sure what has been happening in the PAC world and C6s w/Nav."

Does anyone know if there is a fix for this problem?

way too in depth for me, I will just wait for the new GM head unti that has the Ipod plug. Like my Impala.

Call me lazy...

Great Post! Thanks for taking the time to put this together! :thumbs:

Am concerned about the your AUX input working for both XM and CDX. This would suggest that those with XM installed, may have a problem with the AUX piggybacking onto the XM signal. Anyone do this install in a XM installed C6?

An iPod and fm transmitter work for me. Not the best sound but better than XM or FM or fiddling with CD's... or tearing my dash apart... Of course not everyone has an iPod. Pity... Just my 2 cents...

This mod is for all mp3 players, not just the iPod.

Ok, you're lazy! :)

Like I said, pity... LOL Buy a C6, then a second rate mp3 player? To each his own... Now don't take that the wrong way.

Any 2019 updates to adding AUX input to my ‘06 C6 nav?
 

Any 2019 updates to adding AUX input to my ‘06 C6 nav? Kits I can buy from members...on eBay...Online etc? Just want plug n play. Input can be totally hidden in dash/console as it is going to plug into my CoStar Bluetooth Onstar bypass module. Does that make sense?

I am in the same boat. I am looking at something like this: http://www.kawal.net/corvettemods.ht...ut%20Harnesses

it plugs into the XM transmitter module in the trunk. I may just hardwire it myself by splicing an aux cord, instead of buying the above harness.

Gotcha. Won’t work for me that way as I’m loving XM for keeping up on the NBA. I found a thread that mentioned a harness for the factory nav stereo that added AUX in with s little splicing. Would love to find that kit. The Bluetooth Costar kit will only do mono bypassing the Onstar. Have to hard wire for stereo.